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Morning all first post so apologies if it's in the wrong place. I wanted to do a full circle write up of an issue I have had over the last year with my 2012 CEGA 2.0 TDi octavia. The first symptoms were when driving home along the motorway, very occasionally the heater would stop blowing out hot air altogether, this started off by lasting about 20 seconds, but slowly got worse over time where the heater would stop working for a longer time. It got to the point where the engine would start to heat up past 90 on the dash just slightly and settle again, then evolved to me needing to downshift and floor it for a couple of seconds and that seemed like it shifted whatever was happening. The engine at it's worst point would just start heating and heating and sometimes there was nothing I could do, the coolant would be bubbling out of the expansion tank because of the pressure in there, and I had to keep constantly running an OBD reader to monitor the real time temperature instead of the indication you get on the dashboard. I initially changed the thermostat (never again, it is a horrible job). This was on the premises that it may be sticking shut and the increased water pressure from higher revs would force it open, but this didn't fix it. I then changed the water pump, as they are prone to expanding and then having the shaft spinning through the centre without the impeller moving. This didn't fix it. Next was a couple of partially related coolant hoses that had mini holes or splits in, these small leaks didn't sort the issues either although I was hopeful. At this point I am thinking in the back of my head that it is either a blown head gasket or a crack in the head of the block as some owners of CEGA cars have reported, but I was hoping it really wouldn't be this. Next to change was the heater matrix due to reports of sand castings being left in the coolant channels from factory, and how the problem all stemmed from the heater matrix sporadically not working. This didn't fix the issue. The actual fix came along when I fully blanked off the EGR, it had already had an EGR blanking plate inserted where the pipe meets the manifold, but I removed the pipe and blanked off the exhaust in and out from the actual EGR cooler unit behind the engine. My theory beforehand was that this is the only place other than the head where exhaust gases could be feasibly getting into the coolant system. After blanking off the EGR cooler from exhaust gases, it must be that there was a small crack which was letting the gases in to pressurise the coolant and stop it all from flowing when air pockets were locking out certain areas. I have now done ~3000 miles since the EGR blanks and have not had a single instance of overheating, and this has been up steep hills in the hot weather we have recently had, so I am classing this as a fix now. TLDR: Symptoms- Occasional lack of heat from heater matrix, climbing engine temperatures Fix- Blank off exhaust gas sides of EGR cooler Engine: 2012 2.0TDi CEGA

The 1.5 TSI is a Miller cycle engine rather than the traditional Otto cycle. It relies on precise engineering tolerances. This problem doesn’t seem to affect all manual 1.5 TSI Karoqs nor does it seem to affect DSG versions. It also seems to affect vehicles that are brand new so that would rule out lack of maintenance. What do people think about this : that small number of engines might have critical components and sensors which individually are within tolerance but the collectively the tolerances are not really matched. Statistically this is a possibility. Thus leading to the engine software being unable to manage the engine in certain specific instances. The engine management software and DSG control software obviously communicate with each other and possibly pre-empt the stall or cutting out and change down or disengage the clutch. Just a thought.

Follow-up... Decided to give it one last go, and tried AGFalco's cable tie fix to reuse the original motor. This time it did go back in, so my guess is that it was the slightly too large spindle on the cheap replacement that was preventing it locating. I don't think the cog wheels are perfectly aligned as there's a single quiet "thud" as it operates. But the whole setup is so fiddly to get at that I doubt taking it out again and trying to relocate things is likely to be successful. In any case, recirculation appears to be working, as the fan gets noticably louder when in recirculation mode. For anyone else attempting to fix this issue, be wary of cheap 3rd party motors. Probably best to use AGFalco's cable-tie method. Remains to be seen how long it lasts, of course.

I had mine go flat recently when I was off grid for the weekend. Key opened the door then placing the tip of the fob in the forward cup holder silenced the alarm and allowed me to drive home. No battery needed.

After dropping a wodge on the Outback for a new battery only for the tailgate issues to immediately recur and funnily enough for a internet search to suddenly (wasn't before) flag that there is a persistent and long standing Subaru issue with a parasitic battery drain via the telematics module. Basically the car continually tries to phone home and drains the battery, the tailgate control module is acutely sensitive to voltage meaning that if the car has sat for more than a day (sometime less) the boot won't open without doing a full control module manual range reset (unlock by hand, open by hand, close by hand and jump up and down on it until the door engages fully). There is a fix and it's not hugely expensive (apparently) but I was going to move the car on anyway None of us love the car either so I stuck it on Motorway while it needs nothing major done. It's v low mileage and pretty much mint other than this known issue. But what next. I've no idea what to get even if money was no object. I'd like another estate. I'd like to it to be fast and decent to drive but also reasonably comfortable. If I had no kids I'd get a used M5 If Volvo did a decent non-hybrid motor I'd get a V90 M3 estate is a bit dear and I hate the interior (no likey flat panels much). I drove an E63s estate a while back and I think it was maybe too fast to enjoy. The ID3 has put us off VAG group I don't do many miles to fuel costs are not really an issue. Coupes are no use with the kids. I'm tempted by another RR as they were a great place to be and super practical but made from terror + Temu parts and tbh not the best to drive as it's a 3T 4x4 after all. I think I need a restomod Jenson Interceptor.

The remote button on my key started being intermittent after 18 months use. It was fine again after I replaced the battery. I'd recommend reading up on how to unlock the car with the physical key and start it by placing the dead fob in the cupholder.

Hi for the last year I have been driving an immaculate one owner 2003 Elegance 110bhp Estate with less than 39000 miles and a full service history. Last week my wife borrowed it for a cross country trip for the first time and came back singing its praises. Unfortunately she also came back minus the front end cap ( I think it’s called the front shell ) for the Right Side Roof rail. I’ve been searching for hours for one online without any luck. I don’t suppose anyone is breaking a mk1 Estate? If not does anyone know if another models front end cap can be modified to fit?? Cheers Stokey

A lot of the bodywork stuff will need respraying.

The problem on the module is that the only one that is the airbag one and the instrument cluster; in this days I’m doing the retrofit of the climatronic and also the ecu is tuned, as long as you have a 1.2 tsi cbza with the exact same configuration I can gave you my coding but if you have like curtains airbag is a completely different coding because I don’t have that.

My seatbelt are the one in the picture

Being a curious sort, last year I conducted a test with a cardboard box with my towbar attached. The emergency brake was applied in time to prevent hitting the box - but I’ll agree it’s only a fag paper away. More important though was the test with the cardboard box on its shortest side - it wasn’t detected and the car hit it. I did the same with the front assist with similar results. It’s actually quite difficult not to brake!

That's the Subaru sold. Again with motorway that was £2-3k over any trade in offer. Seems a bit mad. Why offer such rubbish trade ins then bid higher on Motorway? It's been main dealers every time for me on motorway as well. Having a dig around thinking maybe something like a 540i Estate would be ideal but again like rocking horse poo There is an older E320 estate not too far away, I'm just not sure I'm old enough for a merc.

This fault on manual 1.5 karoq has NOTHING to fo with driving style!. I've had a citigo and toyotas with start stop and never an issue. There is a dangerous issue and it needs addressing!

I’m retired and my key fobs are hung in a metal key box mounted on the wall in a walk-in cupboard about 5m from the car for the vast majority of the time. The factory fitted key fob battery lasted a few days short of 15mths after delivery. As an indication of usage I’ve had the car for 19mths and only done 3000miles so far…

Not sure when the date is exactly but all these shipments ie postal imports as simplified procedures, are coming under new regs so will be much more expensive soon due to revisions in import procedures. Many Western countries have done or are implementing this and thus will choke off billions of USD, Yuan, £, € etc of trade for China. Be interesting to see what China does next. In addition to collecting more import taxes there can be tighter control by Trading Standards who's responsibility goods meeting CE UK is. We should be a bit safer as well as collecting more taxes but landed cost to us consumers will be more ofcourse.

Always do my research both in the spec and the reviews on the Amazon site and then find reviews on YouTube. All purchases on Amazon, and a recent one directly with large power bank maker VTOMAN, the products have exceeded my expectations in quality and value. Taking one apart recently one could not help but be impressed at the biuld quality.

Any structural point will do, if you can't use the chassis then the next suitable are areas where the suspension arms connect to the chassis, either the bolt heads or end of the suspension arms, chassis side. Use a rag or an old rubber floor mat to avoid damaging the finish. Once you fit the stand, before getting under the car, try to simulate "movement" of the same type of the work you will do. Every time I lift a car, I do move it and shake it, in all possible directions, and then also a 'jerk' simulating the typical undoing of a very tightened bolt or not. Only then I go under it ... Use a wheel thrown under the car as a failsafe.

Unfortunately, my installation was with the OE/accessory 1kg bottle, whereas what fr1nklyn is mentioning is a new "particular" requirement from neighbour country Hellas, which I believe is the only nation in EU and Europe to require a 2kg fire extinguisher. Now this is a hefty piece of metal, and not only you are required to have it, but it must be made "accessible" - this means not thrown randomly in the bottom of the luggage place 😁 I got myself yesterday a 2kg one as per requirements, and will try to see if it fits in the place where I set the OE one as shown, but I doubt it fits. Tomorrow I have some time to play with this ... will update.

If the slider pins were fine, and I guess you also check the piston did not have a seal damaged, which would make it not come out properly ... guess all steps were covered. I would watch it again in a couple k miles, to see how the new pads are "marking" the brake disc.

Yes i will be on the floor on jack stands. Worst case I will do it up as much as I can and then run to a friends garage with 4 post and torque them up there.

I have the back covers on for the headlights - been 2 yrs now with no issues. Ideally have the back cover off, however I'm concerned about dirt and water ingress inside the headlights, causing headaches. Hence cover stays on.

Thanks but unfortunately i am using the Oem jack not a trolley.....your point is a good one though....

Hi, welcome. As this is a (UK) English language site posts are best in English, Google gives your post as - "Hello, I'm Pedro and I own a Skoda Octavia MK3 VRS 2.0 TDI 184 hp." As such, if you have not already seen them, along with all ther sections and subjects on Briskoda are Octavia Mk3 and Octavia Projects forums where you can see and ask about real world advice and information from Octavia owners and others. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/ I hope this helps.

Johngerard My Fabia’a umbrella in its protective fabric cover is 28cm long and the hard-plastic storage ’tube’ that is built into the door is 29cm deep. So, when the umbrella is pushed fully into the tube, the end of the knob that has the release-button on it is about 1cm inside the tube. When the release-button is pressed, the knob only extends by 2cm. As I said earlier, for the knob to reach the front of the rear door (and potentially jam behind it) the end of the knob must be a minimum of 10cm from the tube’s opening in the driver’s door. This means that, if the umbrella were closed up but the release-button had been accidentally pressed, the main ‘body’ of the umbrella would still have to poke out some distance from its tube before the knob contacted the rear door. To allow the closed umbrella to be so short, its frame (shown on the attached image) and the way it folds/unfolds is complex, and the handle does not extend beyond the initial 2cm until the umbrella’s frame has opened. I’ve tried various ways to provoke my Fabia’s umbrella into emerging from its storage tube or its handle to auto-extend, including not tidily folding up the umbrella’s fabric, then not fitting the velcro band and fabric cover, then pushing the roughly folded 'naked' umbrella into its tube and pressing the knob’s release-button. With the umbrella closed, I also tried pulling the knob hard to see if I could get it to extend more than the initial 2cm it moves when the knob’s release-button is pressed. Nothing succeeded: even if the umbrella was far enough out of its tube for the end of the knob to touch the edge of the rear door, it still wouldn’t extend any further of its own volition. As far as I can see, if there is no ‘mechanical’ fault with the umbrella, even if it is not in its fabric cover nor had the velcro band fitted, it will be impossible for it to open (and its handle to extend) until most of the umbrella’s body is out of the storage tube.

The UK is going to gift the Ukraine many millions more £, (210 Million of Export Finance Support) and nuclear fuel in the form of enriched uranium. apparently this is 'going to directly support thousands of skilled British manufacturing and supply chain jobs.' "The multi-year deal sustaining operations at vital processing facilities in North West England." I smell BS. Lies and untruths. But good to see just how easy it is for the UK to produce Enriched Uranium. The UK is so very wealthy, and energy & resources rich. Maybe it can sort out water companies in England and get building new infrastructure, not just bail them out. The National Grid actually fit for purpose and owned by the UK nations would be an actual move forward for Energy Security in the UK. PS, Depleted Uranium, was being moved from Dounreay to China then that was stopped and it was being flown out from Wick to the USA. That is 'highly-enriched uranium ( HEU) Also materials moved by road and then rail to Sellafield.

You won't harm the battery by going a few days without coding it

Yes, that I will do for sure!! I've enough experience dealing with insurance assessors in the past to know that they will not leave any stone upturned in their efforts to reduce or better still, deny a claim!! Best Regards, Jim

Excuses! (I say this like I'm going)

Again, not everyone has the necessary cash to finance these things; also, they should be installed in a safe and regulation-compliant manner, which means installed professionally, and that further increases their expenditure of money that they never had in the first place. Let me tell you that much of this Chinese-made equipment is not made to standards that are approved by the electrical industry, even those that claim to be compliant with this or that standard, and some even produce test certificates claiming full compliance, but they are fakes. I have been involved in operations to seize huge consignments at the docks and indeed even tracking down shipments of goods that had slipped through the nets and ended up on certain electrical wholesalers' shelves on sale to both the electrical trade and the public.

Send me VIN in PM and I will check and send you details

That bigger one looks to be the correct one, from memory on Polos, 2002 and 2015, the bung that I removed and replaced with Audi Mk1 TT jacking point protectors looked more like the small one - but things seems to have changed - by "looks" I mean the recessed part and not the size.

If you read this thread carefully you will note the issue reported is with the EVO2 engine in manual, it is an issue across the VW range. Neither of the cars you have had had a manual EVO2 engine. You don’t have a clue what you are talking about.

@Jim Reire Just being nosy, but what shows on the Plate for Towing weights on your car? Can you take a photo please?

Keep all of the correspondence regarding this insurance snafu! - Consider changing insurer next renewal. Heaven alone knows what they will manage to do in the event of a claim!

You have standard seats so you see only the yellow connector that is for the airbag in the side of the seats. Also the connector you have seen in the video are different in 2011 models onwards, those are tipically only in prefaceift mk2 fabia

An update after visiting the dealer. The dealer did confirm that the electric tailgate was not properly configured. They did make a video recoding on the operating tailgate and sent the video to experts. The mechanic adjusted the hook by lossening the screws holding the lower boot hook and now there is no more that terrible sound.

Hey all. Im in the process of thinking about a new set of wheels. I have tried the Audi S5 20" & also the RS4 20" both without spacers, let me know your thoughts. She has been lowered on eibach springs.

We can supply & fit a genuine electric folding towbar with a 2 year main dealer warranty and 13 pin electrics. The installation is recorded against the cars build data, it's the same towbar they install from the factory.

The Superb and Octavia use different buttons so these won’t work on your car. If your blanks are the same shape then yes they’ll fit, as I’ve swapped Octavia / Superb / Yeti buttons / wheels around on what is essentially the same wheel.

Outcome: Dealership said the fix is not quick and this is a chargeable service for a car outside Skoda warranty. I have decided not to spend the money and will manage without the link to Skoda Connect account. I guess this means no live traffic available - will use google maps instead. Disappointing Skoda aren't willing to fix these kind of problems.