Leaderboard

As others have said the bushes may pass an MOT but they really only fail when they tear, so overtime they degrade and crack and become soft (much like me it seems), refreshing the bushes is a good place to start. There are so many on these cars I would start with ARB bushes and then look at things like swing arms etc. I had mine on the ramp recently and I was looking at the state of the bushes and thinking I should probably start a refresh as they are looking a little worse for wear after 11 years.

The bushes may look ok and get through MOT but overtime they get worn out with too much play. Did my old volvo years ago as it was like driving a boat. New bushes all round and it was like new again. Went for standard rather than poly mainly due to cost. Maybe start with antiroll bushes and take it from there. Alasdair

I think you’ve answered your own question. You don’t need to improve the handling, you need to repair a component to restore handling. It’s likely a worn bushing - could be ARB, LCA, trailing arm, drop link, subframe, shocks, whatever. A common modification for these cars is to replace the stock RARB something 24mm or thicker - be it from a GTI CS or an aftermarket place like Hardrace, H&R, 034, IE, SuperPro, or Whiteline. It makes a big difference, but beware of going too stiff without changing other components to suit.

Just be careful with the subframe alignment kit. Everything is designed to move a little bit, so that in a low-speed smash, a lot of the important stuff is protected. By sticking in those collars, you’re reducing any flex or wiggle room that oval holes and the like introduce, transferring the full energy of an accident to the subframe and more critical components. You’ll also find that, unless the car is brand new and has never been into a pothole, you will need the adjustment to get the car aligned! My car has never been in any sort of incident beyond a wheel kerbing, but without replacing half the steering and suspension system, it wouldn’t align properly were the subframe to be locked in place.

I have these on my list for my "not a project" car after I have done the bushes and ARBs, had similar on other cars and do seem, to work well.

RacingLine also have some upgrade parts if you still want more stiffness (ooo, err) after doing the 'bushes': https://www.racingline.com/mqb-underbody-brace https://www.racingline.com/mqb-subframe-brace

Remember that new tyres should be fitted to the rear of a vehicle. As others have said, a bush that has failed/worn to the extent of causing poor handling will be unlikely to fail an MOT upon visual inspection. Just as creaky @travs

What tyres have you put on the front, and what's on the back? If you've got much improved grip on the front, and not so much on the back, that's not going to help. Gaz

One thing that I will add, if you are keeping this car for "a while", if it still has G13 coolant in it, it should get replaced with G12 EVO as it was only G13 that needed the Silicate pouches to add Silicate back into the coolant as it was being depleted in use, especially with certain engines/temperatures. G12 EVO does not need this which is why "Mit Silikat" has disappeared from newer VAG car reservoirs. Some people will say that it's easy to work out which coolant is in the system by checking its colour - I can't say that I'm 100% certain that I can/could, I've replaced the G13 with G12 EVO in both our cars - more due to the car's/coolant's age than anything else.

I'm a newbie Superb owner and felt my tailgate struts are not as efficient as they might be. Having entered Make, Model and Engine size as well as registration into both the AUTODOC site and app, I was presented with a long list of struts, all of which, I was informed, were suitable for the car. (You can see where this is going!). Ordered 2 x Stabilus 301171's which, on arrival, clearly did NOT fit. Challenged Autodoc who said I should have checked the VIN first with them by email - there is no guidance evident to do this and why would you, given the info they had and their site's confirmation of suitability. The upshot is that they reject any responsibility, offering to refund £44 cost but NOT my £9 postage. In addition I am required to spend £25 to return the items to Germany. When I gave them the VIN they advised they don't stock suitable struts as they are factory issue only - so why list umpteen struts as suitable? You'll see from the attached that my VIN details are actually held on the site in the second image and still the recommendations stand. My post is made purely as a warning if you are looking for Superb III struts on this site, do NOT take anything at face value. Highly UN-recommended. Apologies if this is in the wrong section or should not even be raised - I'll understand if Admin removes.

Hello folks, I have a couple of (hopefully!) minor issues with 2008 TDi 1.9 (BXE) Elegance estate I've just acquired. Car has covered 104k miles, FSH up to 80k, and generally looks remarkably clean inside, outside and underneath. Issues are: 1). Front driver side fog light comes on when the headlights are switched on. Both front fog lights illuminate when the fog light switch is activated. I'm not sure where to start. Should I check wiring to all front lights? Buy a scanner and check for error codes? 2). Small cover on driver side of front bumper disappeared today (see pic). What is behind it - a sensor?? Does this need covering to protect from the elements? Is a replacement available separately, without having to buy a whole bumper?! Many thanks.

Got the call from the dealer today to say my new car has arrived at the dealership. 7 days from order to delivery! I had to wait 7 months for the Superb. A benefit of zero factory fitted options. It will no doubt have been sitting in a uk port for a while, Civics are built in Japan. I’ve booked it in at a professional detailers for a “new car” treatment. I’m going on holiday at the weekend so I’ll be collecting the car when I get back in a couple of weeks time. Thanks for all the help and advice over the last 18 mths guys 👍🏼

Victory! After replacing the USB port and wiring harness and ereasing the error. Huge thanks to @Zlatko580 for this guide and the additional help. Also thanks to @bigwhale42 for the Linux guide. I used WSL and had some pretty good fun... ...although playing with clamp was quite stressful for me :) Thanks again!

Hi all, I have a 2017 VRS Hatch on 55000 miles and i've noticed the handling doesnt seem as good as it once was. It feels like the whole car is twisting from the middle when turning left or right and feels unsettled on bad roads. Ive had the tracking done and new tyres to the front, but that hasnt helped. Sometimes I get a creaking noise from the rear over bumps but thats it. Its never had any issues come up when being inspected or serviced. Does anyone have any advice or experience with this?

Yeah it still sticks to the road as well as it ever has, just the roll in the body from side to side that seems to be spoiling it.

They are great cars and a refresh will make a massive difference, just tightens everything back up, they handle really well generally and I cannot say mine feels anything like yours, mine feels really well connected and predictable and as I say my bushes are not in fantastic condition!

Cheers, I love the car and it's in near mint condition but the handling is making me want to start looking for something else. I'll have a look at getting these bits changed first. Thanks again.

Got Bridgestone tyres on front and the ones on the back are 4 year old Cooper tyres, but do have about 80% tread. They have got some cracking to the outer edges though. I noticed the change to the handling before I changed the tyres, but I think you are right that it won't be helping matters. Cheers for the advice, I suppose it's getting to the age where these things need doing now, despite the mileage.

A couple of days ago, I had a new update for the Shop application. This new update seems to have changed the version number and since then I've not had any new requests for "application updates" so far.... The new shop application version is: 3.15.1-336.321 Previously I had the update repeatedly for: 3.15.1-334.320 Fingers crossed this is the update that fixes this issue.... Gabbo

Agree - if you want weaker tyres to let go, you want the fronts rather than the rears. I'd put money on the rear ARB if there's a twisting effect. As Occy says, get something a little stiffer and get new rear droplinks too to make sure you cover off those as well.

Thank you for the reply! It is actually the original tank since I bought the car brand new in 2018. There is no tag "Mit Silicat". Now my Skoda is in 70 000km so was checking to pump out all the G13 from system (had done it when car was 4 year and 35000km). And in the search I found out that G12evo is replacing G13 but to replace the expansion tank in case is silica double-walled type. It does not have any silica bag inside, that I have been inspecting carefully. AI engines says that 6Q0 121 407 / A / B was already used on earlier Fabias, long before the later 5Q0... silicate-reservoir issue, Since there is no problem with the tank I was thinking to keep it if is silica and replace later on a damage or leak.

575601025E ?

Gateway 19 - paco_video_parksystem-RVC_compact_smart Multimedia 5F - adaptation Vehicle function list BAP - VPS_0x0B (activated) Vehicle function list BAP - VPS_0x0V_msg_bus (Can_fas) function_configuration_unit - RVC_video_input (ethernet) parkingsystem_video_input - carrier_resolution (1392x656) 6C 0303A300E73000 {that’s mine) what I found iin 6C that only Brand (Skoda Audi etc.) and equipment_driver_side can bring you error and stop camera working rest either it works or it doesn't but you still got picture I struggled with my camera for few weeks I couldn't solve incorrectly coded module error i tried all coding on the end I had to flash new dataset

Right time is maybe before or during winter not after it, unless you need it through the winter.

The German Skoda forum also has a topic on this issue. Some of them have found seals around the radiator to be misaligned, however, not all report that it fixed the issue. https://www.skodacommunity.de/threads/octavia-neuwagen-2024-droehnen.151232/

mine is Octavia SE Tech Combi 2.0 TDI 150 DSG UK car (built June 2025). With no options except the factory fitted swing out towbar. It doesn't have any noise issues at all. In your own time it might be worth getting underneath, I find you only need a few inches.... for example you could remove the undertray and go for a drive

I have the same one and reccommend it!

For what its worth, mine is 13 years old with nearly 100,000 miles on it and I can't see me getting rid of it any time soon. I've had my share of cars over the years starting with elderly Ford Anglias and going through Renault 16s (five of those) and even a couple of Volvos (best not remembered) but there is something about the blend of quirkiness, practicality and reliability of the Yeti I think would be hard to replace. And certainly the cloned slabs that seem to be the affordable choices in electric cars, I'll pass thanks.

Have found the same. Brake disc sizes are entirely random despite the make, model and trim confirmed. @Breezy_Pete knows his onions so take that as gospel. And tbh I’d just google it and see what comes up. Skoda parts is always an option.

Unfortunately, they were a bit twisted back then, but that has since been corrected. But this is also very nice. 🤩

A significant disadvantage of autodoc and its other companies masquerading as UK based with .co.uk addresses. Fine when the right parts are offered and delivered, PITA when not. Part number is very likely to be printed on your current struts. Use that - exactly, suffixes and all - to attempt to find aftermarket matches, autodoc may also be wrong about non-availability.

Make & Model: 2006 (56) Skoda Fabia MK1 VRS Colour: Black Mileage: 162357 Price: £1695 ono. Description: Have owned the car for the last 11 and a half years, and it has never let me down. The car has not been tuned or messed with and is completely standard. Only selling as having this model for over 20 years, including two new ones, I decided it was time for a change. Car runs and drives well though it has developed a small boost leak recently. The wheels will need re-powder coating again, tyres though have a lot of tread, the backs as new. The interior is in good condition as are the seats. Bodyworks has the normal stone chips and dings for a 20 year old car MOT Dec 2026. Please ask if you have any questions. Condition: Used Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: Recent new front brake calipers and hoses and N/S rear caliper. New Sump due to plug stripping. Cam belt and water pump replaced Oct 23 at 149359 Miles Collection: Norfolk NR19, UK. Pictures:

The only time I get that symbol on the dash is when I engage sport mode. The two green ‘arcs’ move towards the rear of the car image as I accelerate so I’ve always assumed it’s some kind of half-baked G meter (or whatever they’re called). Either way I find it completely pointless.

Well, I'm now at the stage of final right to reject. They are collecting the Octavia on Sunday to do an assessment. I'll be back with the results. Wish me luck 🤞