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Yep, I never thought I'd change from an RS, but my car has passed the 3 year boundary and will soon want an expensive service, discs and all sorts of TLC. Throw in the increasingly expensive fuel, VED and the fact that I'm getting older, I've now lost my parents and dog I've decided to have a change and go electric! I'm not leaving the Skoda fold though, I'm getting a Elroq Sportline 85 instead, had a test drive and I was very impressed with it, it was smooth, comfortable and airy. Also it's going to be cheaper to "fuel" at home and with a broadly similar range to what I get from my RS now it was a no brainer for me. My RS leaves me at the beginning of December.

Thank you all for your comprehensive replies. I’m reassured that the problems earlier cars had have been corrected now.🤞 With that knowledge I think that we’ll have a trip to the dealer to see how my wife gets on with the Octavia. If she doesn’t It’ll be another Scala. Thank you again.

12 volt battery replaced today. Decided to go for an AGM over the existing FLB battery as it was only a couple of quid more expensive. Recoded with new technology type and increased Ah. Stop start now works which is nice.

Plus that would be illegal, as we don't have amber lights like the states, plus it would fail a MOT

I have a 2020 Mk4 Octavia 1.5 TSI manual and I love it. Bought 2nd hand when slightly under 4 years old, it hasn't been all plain sailing but I have experienced significantly less problems than what some have going by posts made on here. Not sure the first owner was as lucky, by viewing my digital certificate you can see that the head unit on the infotainment system was replaced as was the telematics module before I got it. My issues were slight software glitches initially, followed by a potentially more problematic software issue relating to the airbag module after flattening my battery. But all sorted thanks to some great advice on here and elsewhere, followed by a trip to see @East_Yorkshire_Retrofits The car is a fantastic drive, very comfortable and returns great MPG figures too. Of course, having that enormous boot is an added bonus as mentioned. I have made adaptions to the car using OBD11 in order to make the experience of driving it even less of a hassle. Nothing major, just simple things such as disabling lane assist, adding standard CC, and disabling certain alarms such as driver's door open when the ignition's on etc. I also enabled fog lights to come on with my high beam as I live in a very dark area, just little things as I say that make my experience of the Octavia more pleasurable. That said, I'm aware that on the newer model (the 4.5) such customisations aren't available, which is what puts me off it. I recently had a brand new (26 plate) Octavia for a day and whilst it was very similar to mine obviously, things such as lane assist by default, speed warnings by default etc I think would bug me if I was to own one. For that reason my advice would be to look for a good 2nd hand Mk4 (up to 2024) See if you can take a look at the vehicle's digital certificate before purchasing, as that should show any major work done to the car in its lifetime. From there I would insist on making sure all of the software was up to date, if you can't have that done by a dealer then seek out a specialist such as @East_Yorkshire_Retrofits who I mentioned earlier, and they'll be able to help out with that. Then of course use OBD11 to make the slight changes so that you don't need to turn off lane assist every time you get into the car etc. Might sound like a lot of bother, especially if you have no experience of such things. But trust me, I didn't, yet with a little research on here as well as other VAG forums I was able to figure things out to the point I needed to. Unless of course the niggly things don't bother you, then of course the Mk 4.5 is probably the safe option as it would seem a lot of the previous software issues have been ironed out during that upgrade. Good luck whatever you decide, but yes, in answer to your original question, I would recommend the Octavia, and think that because you like the Scala you will love it.

You will keep the original coilpacks as spares, right? Seems wrong to throw away functional items.

A tough time for you but you now have a new chapter ahead of you, the new car is a nice way to get started in it. All the best.

75000km service today: oil change + oil filter replacement + cabin filter replacement. Everything went fine. 🙂

Thank you Steve most appreciated, it was been a difficult few years for me with being forced to retire early by my company and the deaths of my dad, soul mate and last year mum, hopefully this new car will signify a new start for me and better luck 🙂

This is mainly for reference for people who might face these issues with their car. This is on a L&K 4x4 265: Problem 1: Multi Media screen not working and only coming on after a while This was mainly a problem with the cold (which we get alot of in the in winter in Finland). The screen wont turn on, the middle dial just has a circle and cant select anything as you can see below. After a while it would all turn on and then it would be fine but in -20 it could be 20 minutes before that and means you cant use anything and also no parking cameras. During the times the screen was not working the dashboard was also switching between Finnish and English constantly, which was really odd. So this was a major nuisance The dealer ship in total had the car 4 times before they were able to fix it (it seems like it works now but weather obviously is better) but it react instantly now like it did when i got the car. What they did is the following: 1st time: Full software update, seemed like it fixed it for them but obviously it was in a heated area so it worked. The next day it didnt work and i went back 2nd time: Changed the center dial. seemed like it fixed it for them but obviously it was in a heated area so it worked. The next day it didnt work and i went back 3rd time: Change the actual screen.seemed like it fixed it for them but obviously it was in a heated area so it worked. The next day it didnt work and i went back 4th time: This time it was properly cold and the mechanic saw the problem and videod it (i also provided videos). Send it to Skoda and they finally concluded it was the Multi Media Control unit that needed to replaced. It took 2 months for the part to arrive and then they needed 2 days to get it working properly. Problem 2: Sun roof not working. First issue was that the unit controlling the opening and closing of the sun roof and the shade cover didnt react. They replaced the whole unit which is located in the roof. It worked for a bit after that but then it stopped working again. It did react and you could hear the roof trying

As a fellow ex-software engineer I couldn’t agree with you more. I’ve given up on my Superb after 18mths, I collect my brand new Honda Civic e:HEV in 3wks time. I won’t be coming back to Skoda/VAG unless they manage to get their act together, if that’s before the Chinese wipe them out…

Pretty sure they are steel but it may have embedded itself into piston. As warrior193 said do not run engine at all and get it inspected via borescope. Hopefully it will be retrievable without removing head or caused any major damage. Alasdair

Whilst I wait for the blind spot LEDs to be flown in from china, I started on the front parking sensor retrofit today. I’ll write it up in more detail with parts etc once it’s all in and working. but once again it’s a bumper off job! Holes cut and sensors all installed. They aren’t quite sitting flush but the mount brackets are a different part number to the correct Skoda ones. But they don’t look too bad once all back together though! Next came removing air box, battery and battery tray to try to access the main bulkhead grommet from the engine side. Then glovebox and fuse box to get at it from car side. It’s impossible. I could just about get one finger to it and the current bundle of wires are so tight there’s no way I’m getting anything more through there. Found the grommet for where the clutch would be right near the PDC controller so the plan is to go through that. But as it’s right behind the hot side of the engine I’ve ordered some heat shield conduit for the cables to run through as they cross the top of the bulkhead just in case. So for now it’s all buttoned back up, and as I had some spare time I also installed the new button by the gearstick and the beeper that are required for 8k PDC, including pinning them into the plugs ready for the change over of the PDC controller.

^^ exactly why I will never tinker with the brakes on my car. If I break something that stops it moving, fair enough; if I break something that stops me stopping - that's very bad news!

Hope the Elroq serves you well and you enjoy it over the time you have it. I'm not [yet] ready for the jump to EV so am sticking with my 2020 Octavia; its serving me well and I make a lot of use of its boot capacity and fuel economy. Anyway, thank you for your contributions to the Octavia mk4 forum and maybe [metaphorically] see you in the EV pages at some point...

Welcome to the forum. The noise is probably the missing plug electrode bouncing around inside the cylinder - don't run the engine any more until any foreign bodies have been removed! I'd suggest using a borescope to inspect the cylinder head, valves and top of piston for damage. The missing outer electrode is possibly ferrous, you may be able to remove it using a magnetic probe.

Could you expand on that a little, please?

My Elroq has the Maxx Pack, Winter Pack and Driver Pack on it aka ACC, plus the Transport Pack for times when I need a 240v mains supply, also the boot net system. Already buying a few bits and pieces for it like door protectors and organiser trays, next month will see a boot liner, a 3 pin charger added

@Breezy_Pete has some great knowledge of Skoda electrical systems and has a Roomster so might be able to offer advice.

Hope you enjoy your Elroq! I'm switching by the year end, too. Enyaq 85 Sportline in my case. Had Octavia for 4+ years now but eventually got tired of accumulating problems which workshops don't want or can't fix, so there it goes...

If you have a basic knowledge and are used to working on cars then fair enough have a go, but If you know nothing about mechanics especially brakes get someone else reliable to do it whether its a garage or a friend with experience. Have had a few friends that tried themselves and made an arse of it. The following I have had to sort for them. Pads fitted but not behind the part of the carrier that secures them. Pads fitted with outer pad as inner and vice versa Slider pins not tightened enough and not lubricated Discs not running true due to corrosion on stub axle Air in system after caliper change (they didnt know how to bleed system properly and thought the brakes would bed in) I could go on and on. Worse one was a friend that got a so called mobile mechanic to do hers and he only put one bolt back in each caliper. She had to brake suddenly on motorway and bang no brakes and just managed to control car before hitting central reservation. Alasdair

Sorry I just assumed you were in the UK, you should have said !

On my end, I prefered to wait for the Face Lift (starting 2024) who solved most of the issues (at least, based on feedbacks found so far). Regarding the lane assist by default, can be painful but it can be disabled by 2 clicks from a button on the steering wheel (a bit painful but more manageable than in other cars where you have to move in 5 menus and sub-menus) Speed warning is now mandatory in all cars in Europe but not too intrusive in my point of view (just a small notification which remains sometime really usefull when I drive in Paris where the speed can switch 10 times in less than 2 kilometers...) Regarding ODB11, sounds like they are working on it to manage the SFD2 and this point really sucks... (ODB11 is really usefull to perform some changes or even when you change your battery). I hope they will be able to sort it out else you need to move to VCSD

Hello all, new to Briskoda but not really new in Skoda world 😅 After more than 6 years 1/2 with a Skoda Octavia 3 RS Combi FL (245hp) who help me to discover the brand, community and enjoy the car, I replaced it last July by an Octavia 4 RS Combi FL (265hp). Color switch from Magic Black to Moon White

Nice 👌 Welcome to Briskoda @Devilbilly 👋

I’m very happy with my Octavia, a 2020 build mk4 estate. The boot is huge, beaten only by the Superb estate. Issues with early build mk4s have been sorted through a combination of software updates and some hardware replacements. Newer builds, I understand, are much less problematic and I’d be happy to buy one if in the market today (which I’m not cos I’m so pleased with the one I have I’m keeping it longer than I normally do).

I've been watching his reviews for years now, and I concur; he goes the extra mile to get the salient points covered.

Only coding I've seen regarding DRL's is to add rear (Scandinavian) or enable the menu option to switch them on/off in the menu. The only coding I've seen available for parking lights is to enable them on both sides. And I've looked at quite a bot of coding / adaptions surrounding lights, so my guess would be no, it is not possible. Happy to be proved wrong of course

I have had this same issue for a couple of months. Car was in Edinburgh dealer last week and asked them to look at it before the warranty runs out next week. They kept it for whole day and then told me they need more time to look at it so needs to go back another day. Not sure if they just didn’t allocate enough time or whether they just don’t know how to fix it.

Thank you so much. Held the power button for 30 seconds, powered off (so no radio, no touch clicks. Then came back but no screen. Garage (some 20 miles away) suggested powering the car down. Disconnected 12v battery this morning, left for six hours. Reconnected (with garage on phone as I was worried everything would need resetting). Started up, screen came on. No issues, theory is it got stuck in an update, and this resets to previous version. Don't know what happens when it next updates...

Thanks all. I have acquired a set of 6.5 x 16” Octavia wheels, which I am now renovating. I think I will be going with a set of 205/55x16” (91V) Michelin Cross Climates.

The salesman who sold us our SEL grabbed us when we went to pick it up from its 3rd service recently and tried to get us to take one of the new Sportline Editions they had in stock, at a hefty discount as part of some Skoda promotion in June. I would say the one thing that put me off was the 19" wheels and 40 profile tyres, coupled with diamond cut wheels, which we had once and I vowed never to have again. The salesman did say DCC helps the ride - I'm not sure what the modes are called but I've read of owners who only ever drive in Comfort, have tried Normal, and never dared to even try Sport.

Tiny ickle toad on the terrace last night

For a while, just in case any of the new ones decide to fail.

Bit moist today, but changed the PCV valve as the original one had a blow on it. Whilst I was there and had two coil packs out I figured I may as well replace them all as they're the original ones from 2018 and the plugs at the same time as I think they were last done 30-40k ago. Aftermarket coil packs as they were cheaper than OEM and being red they'll easily add 10hp each 😂

On my Mk 2, this used to happen if I didn't really "whack" the seat backrest home. Try releasing it again and whack it hard against the stop when you put it back.....

Sorry, I was wrong. Varioflex rear seats are listed under 'extra equipment'. When I was looking at 23 & 73 reg Karoq SEL some had Varioflex rear seats & some didn't. My car also has a full sized spare wheel that lifts the boot floor. This means that when the rear seats are tipped forward the revealed extra floor space is lower than the boot.

Another standard one from last week on way to work one morning.

My only other ideas are - 1) Blocked holes in the plastic cover that sits under the front wiper arms, ahead of the base of the windscreen. 2) Washer bottle or a pipe from it has sprung a leak. That makes more sense as OSF / FOS

It’s a slippery slope. Then when you’ve exhausted the cheap parts you move on to more expensive projects! I’m fast heading towards the only thing left to do is order an eibach pro kit and lower it! Then I’ll have to convince the Mrs she needs things for her kodiaq!

Yes, the new slide pins slide in and out. I used some BTAS ceramic brake lubricant. I made sure I cleaned the face of the hub etc. I picked up a new hub today, so shall fit that tomorrow, fingers crossed this fixes it!

Hey guys, It took me some time, but managed to replace the 3rd brake light last weekend. I'll try to write a summary on the different parts that needed to be removed to get to it to help any further attemps along. However, it took ages even with the help of someone as we didn't really know how to remove each part and didn't want to damage anything, if you're not comfortable I recommend going to a dealer or other garage to get it fixed. Everything is at your own risk, be especially carefull when working with connectors of electronics or near electronic parts, to not damage them. (The following video is on a Octavia 3, but can you some idea of the removal of the big plastic piece: https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=uXg_Cw9DWtA) Step 1: Get the replacement part (V5E7945097 I believe). I recommend you also get new screws, I had to do with cleaning two that were a bit rusty. Step 2: Choose a day with a mate and plenty of time. Step 3: Remove the big part of the boot interior plastic (5E7867975A), be carefull to remove the connector of the button for the electronic boot before completely taking it off. This plastic part is mounted with 16 metal clips (image 1). Step 4: Remove the smaller plastic that's around the window (5E7867605), this has two screws (visible when you've done step 3), 11 clips and needs to be pulled to the inside to undo all clips (image 2 & 3). Step 5: Unclip the connector of the brake light and washer jet that's mounted in the spoiler (https://youtu.be/nH4BN3Fib1U?feature=shared&t=176). Also release the cableholder for the wire set to get more room to work by pulling it straight out (image 4 & 5). Step 6: Add protection (masking tape or cloth) to prevent damage to spoiler and rear of the car. Step 7: Remove 11 screws and nuts (image 6). A very small ratchet is highly recommended, or one can manage with a Torx 25 allen key for the 4 screws in the square holes. Step 8: After closing the tailgate, lift up the spoiler slowly although with some force to click it off. It is still somewhat held in with 5 red clips (image 7). Step 9: Replace brake light (I didn't take pictures, this step is pretty easy though as it is just 1 wire clip, 4 bolts and maneuvering the clips of the brake light out afterwards). After replacing the light, connect the cables back on the spoiler and to the car to confirm it works. I even went as far as to check all other lights and the washer nozzle. To mount the parts do the steps in the reverse order. Make sure to keep track (as good as possible) that all clips are correctly clicked in. I am to this day not sure if I got them all, although there are not rattles or weird bump in the plastic. If there are any questions, feel free to get in touch. Thanks to the people in this topic that helped by their posts here and especially @naialsl for his support. Timo Image 1 Image 2 Image 3 Image 4 Image 5 Image 6 Image 7

My best mate passed away last week. His wife is the named driver on the policy, like most spouses. My question is, is she still covered? Obviously we need to let the insurers know (and register the car to her with the DVLA) By her own admission, she's not the best at sorting things out, so I'm going to help her. Cheers