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That code is just a referral, saying "check engine ECU, it has a stored fault code", I think.

There is another story. My mum went to school with him & worked at St.Cuthberts Bakery & Tam Connery at the Milk at the Coop. They were the same age but somehow all his life after body building and boxing and being an artists model he had a DOB making him younger. He said he lost his virginity to an older women. well considering he tried them all on and an 18 year old was older than his supposed 15 year old. Once at Downfield golf course in Dundee my pal shouted and asked for an Autograph and he told him to get to ****.

Pic of tyre and excuse the dirty wheel, needs a wash. Similar tread pattern to the premium Michelin CC. Ive also removed the locking bolt, as I do with all my cars, as I dislike them.

If I am honest, I don’t know. I believe it was only offered on the 2.9 APR PCP and not the 0% one though. dealer I used was Marriott Motor Group who are Suffolk based.

For 6 months unless it is extended. Electricity only. 5% not to pay. Instead of £100 you will be £95. Easily with the cost of domestic gas this winter which there is still 5% vat to pay on the treasury is still going to be many quids in.

Check the alternator to make sure it's working correctly check the wiring in the engine bay and the scuttle door wiring is usually a big problem and if you are a aftermarket head unit check that as well because that can drain batteries

Folks - just pulled the trigger on the above in Velvet Red (other than that standard spec) - currently driving a Karoq 1.5 DSG Sportline Edition. Due in approx December and will be my first EV - hoping I have made correct choice. Current and new Elroq purchased via PCP scheme and Ohme Home Pro included as part of PCP offer. Would be grateful for any owners views/comments!

Sorry.. No cigar for that guess...

Bingo... A C3 Picasso that seems to have had quite a hard life... Is version number one. Version number two arrives tomorrow

5Q0 and 2Q0 radars have different mounting positions and, consequently, different brackets. With the 2Q0, you would normally have to buy and install different brackets. The 3D-printed part saves you from having to do that, allowing you to use the OEM 5Q0 bracket instead. It’s a great solution from @Cairus.

****röen Picasso. Can guarantee that if you're in a hot country the AC will be on the fritz 🤣

Ok there'll be two versions of this hire car as we've discovered the one we have which is named after a famous painter is falling apart and has non-working A/C which isn't nice in these temps and when we have a heat warning for 36 tomorrow. So we're getting an upgrade to an American Group F

My DRL kit arrived from AliExpress so using a spare headlight for cheap I first removed the lens by taking the clips off and then warming the sealant using a hairdryer, Then removed the 100 screws and the plastic strip, which is clipped in place, I also removed the LED module, you can see of the old strip the melting that had caused the yellowing, Using the reverse of taking it apart put it back together and tested it, Good result, just need to clean the inside of the light and refit the lens with some new butyl seal which will involve baking the light in the oven once the seal is in place then squeezing the lens back on and refitting the clips. A small but satisfying win.

Yum… stickers for my tool box

Goodies arrived…🤪

Ooh I wish it was either of those. And yes it's very nice if currently about 34 degrees which is a tad warm for me!

Sadly, the entire EV industry is guilty of misinformation, and it starts right at the top with the legislators pushing towards an idealistic goal long before we have all the answers, a pattern that I have witnessed before. I don't really think that we can lay the entire blame at the motor trade's feet when they themselves are staring down the barrel of punitive fines for noncompliance with an over-optimistic mandatory target. Also, sadly, the education system has been dumbed down so much that almost every school leaver qualifies to get a place at university, hence why we find graduates stacking shelves in supermarkets, as industry chiefs know that the qualifications gained in a lot of cases are inferior to those gained years ago.

Electrics have always equated in a hydrodynamic way to help me understand. KWh is volume capacity, KW is flow rate like litre per hour or so. Congrats to Pierre Gasly taking poll at Monza, great for Alpine-Renault and Enstone Oxfordshire. Just need to convert to podium tomorrow, especially after being robbed of Monte Carlo podium.

The real answer is trained sales staff and trained management. Motability sales people were specialists that had knowledge. The whole selling and leasing of EV,s is a farce with many places. Even at Arnold Clarks multi million EV sales establishments where they are supposedly Pure dead brilliant or GENIUS as their ads went. As to PARK,s the ever growing business in Scotland they excel in hopelessness. Autocar, Auto express, Which or just Motability need to get secret shoppers in to these establishments.

Was looking at a newer fabia for my son and read real world mpg figures are 45-55 on long smooth runs but 35-40 if journeys are short and lots of stop start city/heavy traffic Alasdair

touchscreen for everything on the MK4 You can't beat buttons and twiddly knobs

I can't see any mention of a home charger included in the 2.9% offer on the skoda site, so I presume that it must be a dealer deal.

No idea what a "Style" model is, but even the base SE model has voice control. To be sure, download the digital certificate from the My Skoda app. It can be manually initiated by the button on the top left of the steering wheel. Initiation by the wake command "OK Laura" is a setting in the infotainment. I leave voice activation off as even when travelling alone, the radio can trigger it.

Never meet your heroes. Was at the Hawthorns, as oft am, and Frank Skinner was walking around talking to various in the crowd, he was miserable. Managed to shout to him his tv series, which he wrote appeared is SH1TE which is how the public reacted to it too. Like his stand up, but Shane was bad.

PS Alex Salmond and Nicola Sturgeon lead the SNP and filled their own pockets and advanced Independence not one little bit. Like Cuckoos. There are plenty Champagne Socialists that earn well from the public purse and were happy for true supporters money to fund their lifestyles.

I assume you have factored the lower cost of petrol against the higher MPG of a TDI? Four passengers with suitcases would suggest a Combi as opposed to a Hatch - If going down the TSI route, suggest looking for a 1.0TSI 110 or 116PS engined version, which, for a manual, have the 6-speed box.

SNP Supporters that do not live in Scotland and pay taxes or even in the UK can say and do as they like, but not even having 1 vote is something, but their 1 voice might impress some but really it counts for nowt. Good that he impresses you @lol-lol

Hopefully some good deals like with Boxt boilers, ie £12 a month when they were saving more than that. One of Scotland's greatest sons, IMO, actor Brian Cox, not the astrophysics guy, was promoting and I have lots of respect for him. Hopefully some freebies from counculs, Octopus forcthe needy. I actually only use about 200w during the day time and electricty bit cheaper after 1900 usually. Also Octopus will be doing batteries next year which can be a big saving. Also would lije to see Octopus and others doing long term repayment so people using the saving to buy over 3 years or so. All doable and a chance this will happen much more than the previous governments.

Yes Millions of people if this is true about balcony solar will be the haves not the have not.s getting it. People need money up-front to purchase. Or on tick, Klarna, credit, buy now pay later and default later and be deeper in the sh!7.

Don't you remember the likes of JRM appearing on TV and stating we couldn't reduce or remove VAT as long as we remained in the EU, claiming the EU would not allow it? All kinds of promises were made: clothing, shoes, and food would come down, thus reducing the cost of living- all big fat lies.

I would like many things, but have to take what comes my way because I am not Putin or Trump. Plans for a new Data Centre at Black Dog as a neighbour for Trump's Aberdeen golf courses and powered from the wind turbines just offshore. So regardless of his wishes they are staying. Even he can not stop the Data Centre if planning is approved. As it is he is supposed to be a fan of such things. Some can be beautifully according to him.

Hi, was the home charger offer unique to your dealer?

Finally we actually get something that was promised if we left the EU, only taken almost 6 years to deliver it.☹️

Plunge oricing on many public charging networks. Negative electricity prices yesterday, today and Agile Predict reckons for tomorrow currently. T minus 25 days for Zero VAT on home electricity !

Wieso die Druck teile, weil die 2Q0 Radar Steuergeräte deutlich kleiner sind als die 5Q0. Wenn diese vorhanden sind, wieso neue Halter kaufen? Gedruckte Adapter rein und dann Steuergeräte einsetzen. Why the printed parts? Because the 2Q0 radar control units are significantly smaller than the 5Q0 ones. If you already have them, why buy new brackets? Just use the printed adapters and then insert the control units.

Sunset a few nights ago..........

I put a full set of Linglong Greenmax all season tyres on my Octavia, 205 55 16 91v, 7 months ago, so caught the tail end of last winter. They were decent on snow/ice/slush, good all year round. Although I don't drive to their limits often, I just wanted a tyre I could use all year round that felt safe. No they're not as good as Michelin tyres, but I've had those in the past, too. I paid £54 per corner for them, fitted. I drive an estate with 16" wheels fitted, so it suites my needs, don't need to drive it like a sports car. They are also wearing very well, as I've only lost 0.5mm from the front two over 5k driven, so far. I thought I'd give them a try, as I generally fit mid range tyres, not disappointed. If I still have my car by the time they hit 3mm, I'll replace all 4 with whatever I fancy, next. Probably all season tyres again, as they suit my needs.

On Kodiaq MK1 FL (TDI200 DQ381), coasting is also set in Normal mode. But I have to say coasting activation is quite smooth and I don't really notice it. Thus, it doesn't bother me when it's activated... I think, they've made progress in the geabox settings...

I thought it might be useful for others to have this information all in one place. I do not claim to be an expert but this is just my bumbling process of adding front parking sensors to my Superb. Parts list: Wiring harness, sensors and brackets - Kit is for LHD and the 18pin plug was missing - seller refunded the cost of replacement plug Tool for cutting holes in bumper (18mm) Cable to extend wiring harness (0.35mm2) - I ordered 3m of each of the 6 colours for the loom to keep it consistent, if you label them well you can do it all in the same colour 18pin plug (was missing from the kit) 5Q0972718A - This is available cheaper from Ali but I bought it from a UK supplier for speed of delivery. 8k Parking module 5QA919294B - sourced from eBay - find one where the donor car matches yours as closely as possible in terms of age and spec, and it shouldn't need any parameterisation. Parking sensor switch (Find the part number for what you have currently plus the parking sensor button. Mine was electronic boot only originally so part number is 3V2927132Q) Colour Matched Spray paint - I had some left over from painting badges. Find your paint code for the perfect match. Cloth loom tape Heat Proof Conduit Possibly not necessary but I used some as a precaution. Wiring Diagram - Superb 3 8k Front parking sensor Wiring Diagram.pdf If you are not experienced in reading these, watch this to help understand them. @JR RS Guide to removing the front bumper Removing Front Bumper.pdf Seat Cupra guide to a similar retrofit Mostly similar but some coding is different. Firstly I laid out the wiring loom. This kit included the 26 pin plug (Which is part of the standard Rear only set up so is not required) but not the 18 pin plug for the front sensors. Some wires were already pinned into this plug. To remove them, slide the flat end open nearest the wires, then slide out the connector block. You remove the individual pins by pressing onto the silver part with a gentle tension on the cable. You have to do it twice as the pin comes out of the block. This kit also inlcuded some CAN wires, and the plug for the switches including some extra wires for that too. I removed the wires from that plug as I was going to add the wires I needed into the existing one. On this one there is a flap that opens (Under the warranty sticker) and it’s the same process for removing the wires. None of the cable colouring in this kit matches the wiring diagram. So I carefully traced which wire was which by looking at the pin positions on the plugs. I printed out the wiring diragram and relabelled it with the wires corresponding to my loom. As this kit is intended for LHD, I knew I would need to extend some wires. I used sleeve crimp terminals to extend the engine bay section of the loom (The one in the plastic conduit) and used the pins from the plug kit to terminate them. I continuity tested the wires with my multimeter before continuing just to be sure the connections were good. Then I wrapped the extended wires in loom tape. (In hindsight I could have fitted everything in reverse, so that the loom went down the drivers side of the engine bay, and I probably wouldnt have had to extend it, just pin the signal cables into the plug in reverse, or I could have ordered another male/female plug kit and just plugged it in to extend it) Next I painted the sensors. Rather than masking them up, I used the cutting tool to cut holes in a small cardboard box and taped them into position using masking tape. Be sure not to lay the paint on too thickly. Just three light coats and a couple of clear coat is plenty. Now to the install. As not all the parts had arrived, I installed everything before testing the kit in the blind hope that everything worked! First, remove the front bumper according to the guide above. The OEM positions for the sensors are clearly marked on the inside of the bumper. Drill a 9mm hole at the marked cross in the centre of the circle. Then use the cutting tool (pulling from the painted side inwards) to cut the neat holes. Fit the sensors with the sealing rings and clip them into the brackets. Offer them up to the holes. My outer two didn't sit quite flush, but in hindsight I may have put them on upside down! I found the AliExpress brackets had extra tabs on that needed cutting off for the brackets to sit flush. Finally, clean up the inside of the bumper with some brake cleaner or rubbing alcohol so that they are nice and clean. Peel off the backing from the sticky tape on the brackets and carefully position in to place. Be sure to get them as level as possible and give them a firm press so they stick well. Connect the wiring onto the sensors, making sure to push them until they click, and then push in the little tab to secure them. There is cable management moulded into the bumpers and the plug should end up near the plug for the temperature sensor. Note the colours of the wires for each sensor, and make sure they match to how you have labelled your wiring diagram. Now I started to route the next section of the loom through the engine bay, starting with the plug near the other half of the temperature sensor plug. I threaded it up past the washer bottle and along the side of the ECU. I made sure to avoid crossing closely to any large red cables in case of interference. I like to rebuild as I go, so at this point I got the front bumper back on and the car back on the ground. This is the point where I then struggled to find somewhere to get through into the cabin. There is a couple of grommets on the passenger side but I couldn't find my way through them. As my car is a DSG, I knew there would be a grommet in the drivers footwell where the clutch would be mounted. I pulled the grommet out and fed some stout wire up behind the heat shield to come out just under the scuttle. This is where I ran the cables through some heat proof conduit as they are crossing the back of the engine bay near to the exhaust. There is some convenient cable management clips that it slotted in to. Once in the footwell, I then routed the cables up and over the steering column area to emerge next to the PDC module which is mounted just above the accelerator pedal. Now to pinning the plugs. Remove the small storage tray from next to the steering wheel for better access. I removed the existing 26 pin plug from the module (Push the button then the lever pulls down) Cut the cable tie, and slide out the connecting block. On these connecting blocks, the pin positions are numbered at each end of each side, and its a case of counting along to the right position. To this plug, you add the wires for the front beeper to pins 2 and 10, ensuring you get them the right way round according to how they are pinned on the plug that goes into the beeper. You also add the two cables to go to the button, to position 16 and 17. Make sure you know which way round you have positioned them so you can put them into the corresponding positions in the plug for the switch. From here I routed the wire up and over the steering coloumn under the dash, and around the side of the centre console (One torx under a little cover towards the front, and then pull down on the panel to remove). Then its just a case of prising up the surround around the gear shifter, and releasing the red plug on the original switches, and the row of switches then pushes out from behind. Add your new pins to the plug to positon 4 and 5 (16 to 4, 17 to 5), slot the switches in, plug in and put the trim all back together. Now you can pin the 18 pin plug with the wires from the front sensors. Be careful to follow the wiring diagram carefully as the 18 and 10 are very difficult to distinguish and I wired it backwards initially. Then plug both the 26 and 18 pin plugs into your 8k controller. I got some errors initially as there is some coding required. Some was already correct but I checked the following were activated: Module 10 - Byte 2, Bit 0 Module 10 -Byte 1, Bit 5 Module 17 - Byte 13, Bit 0 Module 3 - Byte 24, Bit 5 to enable manoeuvre braking. Thanks to @Cairus for guiding me on the coding. Clear fault codes and all was well. No further dataset or parameterisation of the module was needed. (I initally bought a newer module from an iV that gave me all sorts of errors, hence the tip above of finding one as similar to your car as possible) The last thing to do was tidy up the wiring with a few cable ties, mount the beeper somewhere up under the dash, and swap the modules. Removing the plastic pins used to mount the module was one of the hardest things of this project. I had to use a fine screwdriver to push the centre pin out from beind, then pull out the outer pin. But finally all was in place, closed up and working well. And looks good from the outside too.

Its my sons car and I change oil annually. He does about 5 to 6 k a year but tend to give it an annual service just before MOT. I drive it randomly and cant say I have noticed any major rattles or noises. Was just a bit paranoid but reckon will leave it and keep an ear out. Alasdair

Just bought a motor thankyou so much for your help 😊

That window motor is a passenger side unit from a Left Hand Drive T5 Transporter, so not the correct part for your Roomster. That can't be made to work fully/correctly despite fitting OK mechanically. It should be 6Y1959801, and the last line of the label should be SK258DDRS, not VW750PDLS. I'll message you to discuss options.

Al I can add is that when ordering several new cabin trim parts for my 2016 mk3 vRS, I had to go to my local Seat dealer because Skoda's ETKA showed these parts as no replacement, while Seat had them freely in stock. Perhaps for the Scout you may find correct parts with correct colour there, but no guarantees. HTH.

65/100 in Czech Republic

I just meet a lovely couple with a brand new Suzuki Vitara EV. Supplied by a dealer 30 miles away and they live a further 12 miles from here. The have 60% charge in car, no home charger fitted yet and they came to charge. Parks salesperson explained nothing. Motability car and no Motability card for charging yet because nobody told them to get one ordered at time of car ordered. They know nothing about AC and slow chargers or AC and home charging. They know nothing about kWh,s or kW and charging speeds. They are now off to try the charger at the Farm Shop and using a credit card. I showed the lady Apps and tried explaining the various providers. I checked where they are and there is 1 AC charger a couple of miles from them and it is out of order. Real world EV,s and Dealership providing disabled people and EV.

Same crap. Charging AC at Girvan harbour. CPS and Electroverse card no access. Got phone answer quick and no Messing about with Liam. ID checked and remote start done. I waited till I needed 11 kWh as £5 minimum charge. Hopefully just a 90 minute wait as I listen to the radio and a full charge for early tomorrow start. PS now going to leave the car untill I see it has charged enough for a fivers worth. 20 minutes and only got 1.5 kWh of electric. 75 pence. PPS. Back at car. Still 36 minutes till fully charged estimated. There have been 4 cars turning up to the DC charger with no idea if the area but have already been to other Ayrshire chargers not working and unaware of Dowhill Farm Fayre,s charger.

Brian big SNP supporter of course. Some of in England belief Scotland will only be properly free when it gets total political autonomy and we would be fascinated how it does. Hope to see it in my life time. If you love someone let them go.

Many of these are national choices. Lots of people in the 26 counties of Southern Ireland go to the 6 northern counties on the island of Ireland to buy children's cloths as zero rated in the 6 counties but a positive VAT in the 26. The tampax VAT was a good example where is was EU requirement to have some VAT on the product, so wrong. The common customs tariff is one area the UK got some freedom ie many items duty is 6% and not 6.5%, wow. The UK does maintain dynamic alignment, mainly due to the mess of the arrangement with the two parts of Ireland. Love the complexity. As I said before we have to be raising a good trillion pounds of indirect taxes to support the direct tax take to buy our national bills. The margins on cloths can be truly staggering. the import duties and VAT are a small part of the elements from manufacture in CN, VN or wherever to the price in the shops I have seen looking at the buy prices on import invoices to declare. JRM is a tw*t.

6 months sounds fair to me, in the April to September period normally we would be expecting to use less electricity and therefore the VAT makes less different. What even the more aware of us did not expect was the high prices of electricity due to the very high summer temperatures taking out so many European power station, so expensive or non existent inter European interconnector prices and our own UK power stations operating less efficiently, and therefore more expensive dure to the high UK temperature reduce our power station efficiency. Added to the above I expect millions of people in the UK to be be benefiting from balcony solar so this will clip the amount of power being used so could drive up prices for those not having balcony solar as electricity suppliers try to maintain profits on reduced sales of electricity. I think many will not by their balcony setup until next spring to wait until our sun, Sol, returns to the northern hemisphere. Octopus doing a 500w kit for £450, pay back time about 4 years I would mount the single 450w panel on one of my solar arrays to increase harvesting by about 40% to track the sun. This would relate some of my 120 w panels to fence based, couple perhaps East facing to collect morning sun and couple on West facing to collect evening sun. VAT can be reviewed and set to collect some many to pay down the massive UK debt and fund policy whilst not being too onerous to consumers.