26DIPP

You can fold them in .... manually. They collect grit underneath and with a bit of cleaning and maybe silicon grease you will get them to fold easily.

Very lean mixture? I.e. hot combustion.

I have been using Barum Bravuris as summer tyres. They are owned by Continental and work well and last.

Hi, Is your car right hand drive or left? Only asking because your location states Bangor and you are asking to go from Km/h to MPH. On the older SII you can only have a large speed display in one "currency". If you go abroad or for LHD with Km/h coming into Brexit UK you have to use the small additional speed display. If you find a way to change the large digital speed display between Hm/h and MPH I would be very interested in that.

Not sure about rust problems. My SII is now coming up to 10 years and I do not have rust - a few bolts underneath have superficial rust. we have the same 2l TDI and I would suggest to not to stick to the long life oil change recommendation. I change engine oil every 12000miles and will change DSG and Haldex very regularly.

We had a similar problem. I opened up the door lock to the PCB. I then unsoldered the 2 microswitches and swapped them as the pins seem to be used differently. This gave the door lock another 2 years of life. The fault came back and I changed the complete lock. Our lock has a different PN but is essentially the same.

Your ride will be so hard. 225/35 would be better. Your speedo would be out by less.

I eventually decided to replace the locking actuator. I have a 2014 SII estate. My filler cap started to get stuck and did not open with the C/L last summer. Some pressure onto the flap helped though. I then opened the mechanism to regrease as the actuator usually worked with pressure onto the flap. Last month I noticed that the flap was actually not locking anymore when the C/L was engaged. So I opened the mechanism again and strange enough it worked when I tested it and put some extra WD40 onto moving parts. The next day the flap was stuck in the closed position and would not open at all. I searched several forums for a solution and on a german Skoda forum one guy suggested to prise the flap open simply by pulling at the top of the flap with your fingers and working the C/L. The flap has enough play to get a finger in gently and the force seemed enough to the release it. I then cut one of the wires and ordered a new actuator. I bought a cheap one on Ebay rather than going through the dealer. The part worked fine and I soldered it onto the cut wires rather than taking my boot liner off, although in another forum I read that one owner had cut the boot liner in the storage pocket to get a hand in and then unclipped the connector which sits at the bottom of the wheel arch.

Hi, I am looking at Kodiaqs. The L&K in particular. Unfortunately it only comes with 7 seats and I will probably sell it with the 2 extra seats unused again. Other markets seem to have a choice even at the L&K level. However.... I am coming from a Superb estate. For those who have gone the same route, how does the Kodiaq boot compare to the Superb estate? We use our Superb for family holidays and often have the boot full.

Hello, I am looking for a PDF version of the owner's manual. I found all the repair manuals and Skoda's own online version, which I am unable to download. Does anyone have a link to a downloadable PDF?

The instrument cluster - CTRL 17 - holds the information for your immobiliser. This needs to be decoded too.

Once you have removed the rubber bellows in the door space you can unclip the connector. I have soldered mine a couple of times and access is o.k., but not great. I have soldered an extra bit of wire in all the broken wires.

Normally the PDC / parking aid is supplied from fuse 9 - 5A. The fuel pump under the rear seat is the closest user in the back I can think of. But if the PDC ever created a fault and blew the fuse troubleshooting would be a nightmare.

Even though my Columbus has installed a POI.DB3 file I cannot click onto the POIs to select any and they are not displayed in the map either. Otherwise the HU is working fine. Does anyone have a solution for this problem?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354630002572?hash=item529198678c:g:ySkAAOSwe1VkBanJ&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABAN%2Fkhn4a2H2rMkJh5g7ugj%2FKii4%2BhobmBDAOx4bfvyBW5Mhs9oqtZbQtd6gBXWkX4aWmoPVTknkd38r22JAwUctspKggEQdVTQXsNHsbbiE6KKXN9UCX9IdaOOi06uIhGCvRhxHrMSy2CHswjZrx3FanM5IXzDEYfUH4%2FzoSetw%2FwnP5hU8XR0ZuS3UYx7IKub2hUezIwTgW1V9tbebzrT6xqP96dX9e4jaRoK99J8VhJJjFUhz5m8jPvUjlpFnQkFO3EkujKgHgODgWV9KDDSq4n6swJZsBCiCH3ZcZoc1TWG5U0NyvQVPivKiEp5Rb1LzZHcgh9C%2BZqVEihqDNmTo%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5i62dmBYw These are the bulbs I have used and think they are better than H7 halogen. They are not like LED headlights but provide better output and more even distribution. The light is bright white.

I hope the L&K will have a TDI 4x4 option again rather than leave TDI 4x4 only for cheaper trim lines and petrol only. You can get this in continental Europe.

We have the projector lights and they are abysmal. I tried "brighter" halogen bulbs which did not improve lighting in the pitch black. I have tried a couple of LED bulbs and one got some improvement. Technically they are illegal to be retrofitted in England but the car passed the MOT.

Hi, I do not kn ow if this is still relevant. My daughter's Fabia had this problem and I was going to solder out the relay, but then decided to get a replacement BCM. Make sure you get exactly the same as there are three different ones depending on the trim level. They are NOT interchangeable. You cannot even use the high end and try and switch some functions off..... I tried and failed.

Hi, You can make your own relay controlled auto on when the engine is running. I wired my daughter's fog lights on a FII from 2009 as DRL. The DRL goes off when she switches the side lights on. On the old Fabias there is not much you can do with coding. They are still honest and straight forward cars.

Thanks, I was almost 100% certain - just not quite.

My daughter's FII has a recurring central locking problem with the front left door. A couple of years ago I swapped 2 micro switches on the small circuit board, but now the door is playing up again. I will put a replacement lock in. The current lock is 3B2837015AP and looking at PR codes for the locks listed - PR-L0R+4K3 - 5J2837015 is compatible. The second one seems to follow on from the first and the big difference is the price tag.... £231 vs £103. Does anyone know whether these locks are compatible?

It is a while since I have updated my RNS510. You could try and download a file called SWL_fix or alternatively install a lower version than 5238 first. It did take quite a while for the upgrade on mine though. My 6276 file was 500MB.

Try search in GPSpower This is a download link https://dfiles.eu/files/owdahinfu

Try this one. It still looks active. https://paulroberts69.wordpress.com/2015/10/01/upgrading-firmware-and-maps-on-vw-rns-510-satnav/