Warrior193

From my recollection, back in the days I towed, there is actually a special hand tool available to clean both male and female trailer connector contacts. Perhaps a useful addition to toolbox?

For a 12-volt system, using a voltmeter, battery voltage should be around 10 volts DC when engine is cranking - voltage should not drop below 9 volts. This is for a fully charged battery. Voltage should recover to more than 12 volts immediately engine stops cranking. Depending on type, a battery test meter will often give pass, charge battery or replace rating, with possibly a percentage reading. For a healthy battery, voltage should be not less than12 volts (12.2 VDC or greater) after battery has been sitting for a day.

Especially the start-drop test if your tester has that function.

^^^ this, plus, if you have someone to assist, keep the meter leads on the battery terminals while assistant cranks the engine. This will give a good indication of battery condition.

^^^^ Especially any earth connections.

Apropos to nothing in particular, an old LD/DOP gag that used to do the rounds when I was working in television - What's the difference between a flare and a highlight?

Dropping oil (or other fluids) on the track will pretty quickly get you a black flag from a marshal. Normal, road-going people have to take their chances.

Taranaki?

I see you like to travel light😆 - same as me.

As a comparison for making a decision - I once had a misfuelling with a Volvo D40 engine, the pump operator had changed shift between me requesting fuel and my arrival at the fuel pontoon - resulting in me being handed what I believed was a diesel hose (out of sight of the actual pump) and putting approx. 120 litres of petrol into a 200 litre tank. Refuelled at Isle of Wight after discovering mistake. Saving grace may have been approx. 50 litres of pretty old diesel that had probably been in the tank for a year. Engine ran fine from Poole, and fuel pump suffered no apparent damage - was still running fine three years later when I lost her.

Hi, are you able to estimate probable proportion of petrol to diesel? If reasonably low, I'm sure that there will be no issues.

Doesn't excessive toe cause 'feathering' of the tread pattern?

Plus a little too much negative camber on the fronts?

Hi Bob, any significant heat on compressor shaft would almost certainly destroy the shaft seal.

Hello Niccolo, welcome to the forum. Be aware that any unexpected current draw while vehicle is locked can cause other onboard systems to not fully shut down (go to sleep mode) This can cause a significantly larger current draw than the dashcam alone and will cause issues with the battery charge state.

In particular, when battery type is being changed - i.e. EFB to AGM as PB intends.

Hello, I assume that you are referring to the security key adaptor for the wheel bolts? I'm not sure if the online market websites here in the UK are different to ones you can access in Morocco - but at least one site I have used in the past has images showing the various key patterns available. Do you have the code from your old key? - this is usually a single letter of the alphabet, stamped into it.

Hi, have you tried one of the online marketplaces? Normally a number of suppliers there.

There is probably significant vibration at that point, so ensure there is sufficient slack in remaining wire.

Of course - minus the 'Instant' part😄.

Inner face corrosion of the discs seems to be relatively common, could this indicate some issue with the inner pistons or pads?

Hi Markos, it's a good feeling. Ditto for my lowly 1.4 except still on original pads and discs. SWMBOs turn with the Fabia (service only) next week.

Just a thought, have the OPs lamp reflectors started to deteriorate?

Hi John, how about using heat (very low oven) to soften a normal crevice tool enough to flatten it to fit into the gap? If I can hide it from SHWMBO I'm going to try it myself.

Are you sure of that? how does it cool the air charge if coolant does not circulate?