Alasdair1

Yep probably the most awkward place to put it. Its one of those you can see it but cant get to it. Alasdair

Doesnt take much to leak especially exhaust into coolant. Hopefully pressure test comes back good and a new gasket cures it. Alasdair

Could be failed turbo seals and oil is ending up in intercooler plus being burnt . Check its not full of oil. Had similar on old volvo. Seals failed and was burning oil and intercooler was pretty full. Used to smoke like mad after idling for a while. Alasdair

Same happened on my Octavia but in my case actuator was sticking and causing overboost randomly. I lubricated it and its been fine since.

If its any help I have been using comma oil for years from tractor/forklifts to fabia/octavia and many more cars. Never had a problem and it lasts. Generally a reasonable price and readily available. Alasdair

Been using https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/ for a good while now and normally 48hr delivery and I am in Inverness. Reckon quicker if you are nearer. Prices so far cheaper than most and do a good range of decent quality aftermarket parts. Alasdair

Sorry I am sure I read battery light was on. Been a hot few days. Hopefully sensor replacement will cure problem. Alasdair

How old is the battery and what voltage is it when car off and cranking and running. If the voltage is ok check terminals/earths for corosion. It may be that when car is warm something like a corroded terminal/bad connection etc is causing voltage drop and puting up random faults when heating up. Seems unusual that both front ABS sensors have failed together? Anti skid warning and steering wheel warning come on when battery is disconnected so if the voltage is dropping too low they may come on. Alasdair

Check the voltage on battery when stopped. It should read 12.5 -12.8v. If it starts it should be 13.7-14.7v. It could be a failing alternator or the exciter wire is broken so alternator not charging battery some of the time (thin wire going to alternator) which would explain battery light. If the battery is low it may be why the car doesnt start randomly as electronic systems are very susceptible to low voltage unlike the starter motor which will turn at lower speed even if voltage is low and cause a big voltage drop. Also check battery terminals are good and not corroded and also earth points. Alasdair

Have a look at MOT history. When we were buying a car for our son its amazing how many failed on bald tyres etc which can give you an idea if its been looked after. How many owners has it had. Maybe first followed service intervals and second didnt bother or an independent garage did the work once out of warranty and didnt fill in book etc. If its a private sale ask the seller what garage they used and ask the garage. If its a dealer and you intend to buy it I would get them to do the timing belt as part of the deal. Alasdair

I take it you have had it since new or low mileage and at 8k I would not expect corrosion or wear that would warrant a disc change unless the caliper is either defective or pads are sticking in carrier. I assume it was a dealer if its under warranty that did the work plus you mention one disc was replaced. Its normal and safe practice to replace in pairs. If it is a defective seized caliper it should be covered by warranty and because it caused damage to disc maybe disc should also be covered. If the pads had seized in carrier I doubt it would be covered Alasdair

Check that there are still antiroll bar bushes in there. It sounds like metal on metal. It might be worth getting someone under car and do the same to see if they can pin point it. In the past I have driven onto a high kerb and crawled underneath and got a mate to bounce car. Check also that the nuts for the drop links havent come loose as well. Alasdair

Reckon its just bad luck. Only windscreen that went on me was on an old Fiat 131. Old school non laminated one that exploded into little bits. Scared the **** out of me. Saw the big stone come out between lorry wheels in front of me and bang. It could maybe be the angle of windscreen or perhaps they are being made thinner these days to lighten car that makes them more prone to cracking. Hope as you have had two go you wont have any more for the next 500k at least Alasdair

On my old Seat which may be the same as its VAG there were two ways. First open locked car manually with lost sync key. Leave door open and turn on ignition but dont start. Leave for 10 secs (maybe a bit longer?) Remove and close door then try to lock with fob. The other way was to unlock car with bad key and keep in the unlock position for around 10 secs then remove and try to lock car with fob. As the bad key will start car the transponder chip is ok but it may be the actual transmitter in key thats failed Hopefully someone on here will have another option if the above doesnt work. Alasdair

If according to skoda Mann are approved go with them. Alasdair

To be sure maybe ask skoda what brand they will be ok with. Pretty sure its Mann rebranded with skoda part number but worth asking Alasdair

I reckon you will have to get VW/Skoda parts either from dealer or from https://www.skoda-parts.com/ or similar to preserve waranty. They normally have to be genuine Skoda and not aftermarket oem. Mechanic friend had a Kia and they allowed him to service it himself but had to get all service parts from Kia to keep waranty valid. Alasdair

If yours is 1.9tdi BXE engine or similar there is a black plastic vacuum valve on EGR cooler at rear of engine below/near EGR valve. My old Seat with same engine used to put EML on and code was insufficient flow. I cleaned EGR but randomly would still come on. The plastic valve was sticking. looks like this It could also be the egr cooler is choked. I also had problems with random warning lights coming on and no codes and it turned out to be cluster needed removing and contacts cleaned then reseated. Worked it out when DPF light came on and theres no DPF. Alasdair.

Wonder if you could remove matrix hoses and join together to bypass it? Alasdair

You might be able to access it by removing gearstick bellows/cover. I assume if its dropped through though something has broken. Alasdair

Found this on an old post. You need two keys. 1. Switch Ignition ON and leave the key in the ignition. 2. Mechanically lock the vehicle from the Drivers door using the key to be coded. 3. Using the remote control press the Unlock button once, and the horn will sound once. 4. Wait 6 seconds and press the unlock button once to activate the coding procedure. The remote control should now be programmed. Have never tried it but worth a go Alasdair

By doing a rolling start if the bendix is not returning and stuck in a semi out position it will still chatter. The click you hear is likely it moving but as said if it isnt returning completly it may be still slightly engaged. Reckon you will have to get an 18mm socket and get the starter checked. Alasdair

Try the sparkplug socket if you have one. My Seally set doesn't have 18mm normal but has one for a sparkplug. Alasdair

It may be engaging ok as the car obviously starts but not retracting enough to clear ring gear teeth. Have had similar problems in the past. Don't run the car at all until its checked and also the ring gear itself. It could be a sticking solanoid/bendix. Last thing you need is to replace flywheel. As said take it off and check its returning properly. If it is not then get in touch with mechanic who fitted it. It may just need lubricating or perhaps a new solanoid/bendix. I assume you have checked that bolts are all tight and secure? Alasdir

No not on my 1.6tdi and also my older 1.9tdi. It does look vulnerable to damage where it is but needs airflow for cooling. Hope its just a hose connection. Alasdair