Alasdair1

Had another google and the wiring on newer models I think goes to bcm but on older seems to go direct to cluster as in yours. It may be a fault in cluster itself thats causing problem as both old and new work in reverse. As both work in reverse I assume that the wiring is ok but maybe problem at cluster?

Air in fuel is likely to be on the suction side from tank to lift pump and before the high pressure pump. If its after then leaks are usually noticeable. Difficult to pin point where but check all fuel lines including filter for signs of leakage including return lines from injectors. Dont think the octavia has a water drain valve on the filter. Just the top sealing gasket. You said it had a day in garage. Dont suppose they did anything fuel related? Alasdair

Have had two mk2 a 58plate and a 12plate. Both diesel but the earlier one is the 1.9tdi pd so no dpf. Havent had much trouble with either apart from dash/cluster problems on the earlier one. Main problem I am finding on both is corosion on front wings, around rear numberplate on both and sills on the earlier one plus advisory on subframes etc. They both have around 120k. Its probably down to where they came from before I got them. One is local to Inverness and the other I think is aberdeen so both high salt usage areas. Sons fabia is an 06 and its spotless but came from devon direction. Check the previous MOT for advisories etc. Alasdair

Sons idle on his was a bit erratic due to vaaccum leak at brake servo hose. They have a tendency to split at the joins. Fabia mk1 are all fuel injection either multipoint or direct. It may be plugs needing changed or perhaps a failing coil pack. Might be worth scanning to see if its a misfire at low revs. Alasdair

I read on here a similar problem. They replaced fuel sender unit and guage worked in reverse. It was mentioned that early and later fuel pump/sender units are different and if the wrong one is used can cause this problem. As you havent replaced sender but relaced BCM I am wondering if the two are linked and its the replacement BCM thats causing problem. Might be worth checking part numbers if you still have old one. May be wrong but worth a check Alasdair

Sounds like a slipping clutch or sticking release bearing. It could be a worn clutch plate/bad release bearing or could be slave cylinder thats leaking and contaminated clutch plate which slips then burns off fluid. Check the brake/clutch fluid isnt dropping. Check the bottom of bellhousing for signs of fluid as well. Sons (same car) clutch just gave up suddenly with no prior warning of slipping. One minute he had drive the next nothing. Either way I am afraid its gearbox out to check and while your at it fit a new clutch and bearing plus a new slave. Slave is exxternal on his but actuator is internal so you will see no signs of leaks until removed. His had a solid flywheel which was ok so I just replaced clutch etc. Try changing from 2nd to say 4th or 5th. If it does it then 99% clutch problem Sorry just realised his is a mk1 not mk2 so not sure re clutch slave being internal/external but symptoms are classic clutch slip. Alasdair

I would monitor it regularly and see. Keep the oil as its excellent for soaking seized parts. I use a 50/50 mix of oil and diesel with a bit of kerosene if its too thick in it as a releasol. Saves a fortune on wd40 etc. Alasdair

Maybe or it could be the igniter in the airbag unit thats causing the problem. I would try and cancel codes and see if it come back. If its the igniter etc I would either get a new/second hand airbag or get a specialist check/repair. One on ebay for £12.94 Not sure if its the same as yours. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266283277821 Alasdair

Would be interested to find our where you get one. Have tried online for my octavia and fabia and cant find anything. Plenty fuse diagrams but no relays for some reason. Alasdair

I reckon get it scanned in case its stored a code. Could be a number of things from air in fuel line to failing crank/cam sensor and everything inbetween hence get it scanned. Alasdair

Someone on here also from australia looking for front wheel bearing. Think it may be the same car. Sorry not sure how to link post https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/438021-front-wheel-bearing-genuine-or-oem/

Ah didnt realise you were there. Bet the carriage would be a bit extreme. Alasdair

Try parts in motion https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/ I use them a lot and so far pretty good prices and service. Seem fairly accurate parts wise via reg. As said I used APEC on mine and think SKF on my sons fabia Alasdair

It could also be a leaky injector/injectors. Alasdair

If the oil level is upto your finger thats very high. Its either been overfilled by a lot or something is raising the level. If it was water it would be emulsified so wonder if diesels getting in somewhere which would make oil very thin and explain the run on. It is the correct dip stick? Alasdair

On my Mk2 there are two options. One with three bolt fixing and four bolts fixing. I used APEC and two years in no problem. Alasdair

Probably come from somewhere near the sea. As said check earth straps especially near starter and also cables to starter. It could be the starter thats failing. Had one in an old van that started to crank slowly and half the coils had burnt out so only half power. The flashing glowplug may be down to a few things. Could be low battery/good battery with bad earth also check your brake lights are working as well. Found this when I was working on my sons MK1 so may be the same. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/2Sm3QJJNRZo

I reckon that for £1600 these days for an aproved full electric towbar isnt bad at all especially as its aproved one and fitted by a dealer. I suppose it depends how often you would use it. If once in a while go detacheable .Mines are all fixed as I use them all the time. Alasdair

My local skoda dealer used to use a local trailer/towbar company to fit their towbars. My folks saved a fair bit of money by bypassing the dealer and going direct to them Alasdair

Hopefully its just the engine mounts. Sons mk1 fabia is a 2006 and his dogbone link was fine when I did the clutch. Reckon you could raise engine enough with block of wood to distribute the load on sump and do each side seperately. Alasdair

When my old volvo turbo blew up I just bought a fairly cheap second hand one and it was fine for years. I may have been lucky. Few on ebay but reckon might be tricky getting a decent one. Might be worth contacting some breakers to see if they have anything thats guaranteed working/low mileage etc. A recore job is possible but has to be done properly and everything accurately balanced etc to avoid early failure. You could see if you could maybe get a recon echange unit. Alasdair

When I said not to bad to change I meant the engine mounts. Think the bushes in dog bone are more difficult although I have seen polybush repair kits for them. I think there is an insert to save removing old bushes in chassis etc. looks like this Alasdair

Im used to diesels and old old pertrol/lpg with distributors etc. The double spark confused me first but found out about wasted spark systems but to me something doesnt look right. As said may be wrong Alasdair

I assume the two plugs sparking at same time is a wasted spark system I may be wrong but firing order is I think 1,3,4,2 as in your vid of the injectors fuel pattern but it doesnt seem to match sparking pattern. Seems to spark 5 times on 2,3 and then 5 times on 1,4 Alasdair

I agree that mount has had it and due to the movement I reckon the other side should be replaced at same time. On my Mk1 theres a dogbone (gearbox to chassis). I would have that checked as well. If replacing it there are two bolts but one is shorter and goes into crossmember with steering rack. I you get them mixed up it can destroy rack. From memory there not too bad to change. Alasdair