Alasdair1

Had read that battery needs coded if start stop. All my octavias and fabia arent so dont need coding. If the battery charging light is on it may be the small exciter wire that goes to alternator thats broken Check the voltage accross battery when car is running. It should read 13.5-14.5v if its charging. Alasdair

Hi wonder if anyone on here can confirm I have the right part number for front springs. PR code in boot is 2UA/L07 and from LLLparts diagrams I get 1K0411105AQ. No paint marks on broken one plus looks like 1x pink,1xorange,1xblue on good one. LLL parts say also marked with 1 x grey and 4x blue which I don't have unless they mean pink,orange,blue or grey blue blue blue blue? Again seems to be quite a few to choose from. Any help welcome Alasdair

Thanks Pete. Would have to be the offside thats broken. Wonder if I could compress it enough on car to remove it. Worse case scenario is will have to remove hub anyway. Will give it a go. Just really dont want to have to remove hub etc as I am limited for time as need car. Reckon I can still drive it carefully as its still got a current MOT although will only be to get parts from Motor factors. MOT folks were brilliant and said it would be safe to drive as its only a small section at base thats missing and if I get pulled over say I am taking it to somewhere for repair. Intend to try and fix it tomorrow as really dont want to risk it. Going do do both as even with the broken spring offside seems slightly higher and I reckon the near side has been replaced previously but with a different/weaker one as its still painted with no corosion. Cant see any paint marks on either. Thanks again Alasdair

MOT today with a couple of advisory but also yet another broken front spring. Thats seven now in two years on my cars. Sounds a daft question but wondered if anyone has changed front shocks without removing hub. Was wondering if both wheels were off ground with car on axle stands would there be enough play to drop knuckle enough to separate and remove shocks. Alasdair

Thats exactly what happened to mine. I repaired mine by drilling a hole in plastic where the spigot broke off and put a coach bolt in place. Drilled hole just slightly smaller than square on bolt and carefully tapped it home then used araldite to secure it and used a nylock nut and washer to secure it. Was supposed to be a temporary fix but its still on the car. Cant remember how I got the broken bit out. May have used a little heat and a punch to drive it out. If removing weighted cast arm it can only go back in one position. Think there is a flat section on splined spigot. Bolt I used looks like this. Careful if ordering a new plastic bit. I got one through autodoc but it was back to front so probably for a LHD car. When setting the cables you push selector down and turn locking pin to lock it. Once cables are set turn pin so it can move up and down again. Glad it wasnt Gbox or clutch related. Alasdair

Might be the air con compressor. Is it louder in the engine bay? As for the windows it may be a broken wire in door pillar or bad switch (they can get wet if window left open). The drivers side motorised unit controls the passenger side so if it fails both tend to stop working. Breezy Pete fixed my sons for me if its the window motor unit. New switches arent that expensive. Got an aftermarket one on Amazon for less than £10 Alasdair

Both my old Octavia and old Seat which I keep for parts had random alarms going off. Finally narrowed it down to when the car battery is getting low on voltage it seems to trigger alarm. Similar to alarm going off if you remove battery when alarm is on. Check the voltage on your battery in case its the same. Alasdair

It normally seizes where the plastic spigot goes through the cast unit. I snapped mine by trying to force into gears so had to get a new one but reckon a good spray of penetrating oil and let soak followed by small careful movement it might free off. Worth a little grease afterwards. The small plastic clips as said are prone to get brittle and tend to snap if not very careful when removing. As for setting gear cables this a link to the process. Its on a fabia but the process is the same on most VAG group cars. Think its around 3mins in. The only other thing it may be is the Gbox selector mechanism itself. The metal selector with the small locking angled pin. It should go left right and also up down. Alasdair

On the MK2 there is a plastic linkage in engine bay near selector housing on Gbox. Looks like this It can seize up and stop you selecting I think from memory reverse and 4th/5th. Make sure its moving freely. I snapped the one on my old Seat after it was sitting for about the same time. Also check the cast metal weighted lever as well is secure and hasnt come loose. If they are all fine and not seized then maybe reset the cables. Careful if removing the white plastic clips as they get brittle with age. Alasdair

If battery/terminals is good 12.5 - 12.8volt including check earth to chassis then I would check connectors to ecu and abs unit etc to make sure they are secure plus look for visible signs of cable damage especially where its making contact with anything as it may have worn through or been pinched. Alasdair

P0600 is a comunication problem with ecu and other units/sensors. Normally an EML or ABS/ traction control light comes on but it could be as simple as a low battery or failing alternator/ poor earth etc Alasdair

Had similar problem a few years ago with volvo 940. I got new carriers but symptoms returned. I changed from whatever pads the garage had used to an OEM set and problem solved. I also found that there should have been stainless steel inserts that the pads sit into but hadnt been fitted. When I measured pads the ones that were on it were slightly smaller by around 1mm. I wouldn't bother refurbishing carriers. Lot of work unless you want them as spares. Alasdair

Might be worth getting it scanned as well. It could be a failing brake switch or if fitted dirty front radar sensor. Alasdair

May go off after a drive but I think air bag codes may have to be reset as they are a safety item so codes are probably stored permanently until cleared with scanner.

I agree with warrior its probably indirect so reckon failing abs sensor/bearing or perhaps wiring. I assume any break in signal from sensor would confuse system and put low pressure warning on. My old Seat used to randomly warn me but tyres were fine. Cause was a failing bearing and sensor. Alasdair

Not sure but as Skoda models get newer things seem to be getting a lot more complicated to do. What mileage has it done. Alasdair

Think on the newer fabias the light unit comes out on rear. Used to be an access hatch on earlier ones. There should be some plastic slotted screws that once undone the light unit pulls away from car to get access to bulbs. Alasdair

If you are going to get it done use JDK as they are cheaper plus I don't see the point of replacing haldex oil and not the filter at the same time. Most haldex problems I have heard about is the filter being clogged. I have never used engine flush at standard oil change unless head gasket etc had gone and I assume a visual inspection of the balance shaft belt is all thats needed. I still change my timing belt at around 60-70k and belt always seems fine with no real wear or perishing but I am more worried about tensioners/idle pulleys etc. Alasdair

Without it being scanned with VCDS or similar there is no way of knowing. An amber light usually means non critical fault and should be safe to drive to garage. If at any time it turns red then pull over and have it recovered to garage. If the car wont change gear or brakes down after leaving home then recovery if they cant fix it normally will either take it home or take to garage of your choice especially if either are within 12 miles. Alasdair

The usual will probably apply 1/8th turn then back and lubricate, bit of heat and then repeat. Hopefully will come out eventually. At least you managed to move it which is a good sign. Alasdair

Cant see it taking very long to check rear drums especially if handbrake works. Car on lift then 5 bolts then drum removed and if dirty a good spray of brake cleaner quick check of shoe/drum thickness (drum thickness check not needed at 20k) then drum on plus 5 bolts and back on the road x2. Reckon its another one of those multi service items that isnt really required. Suppose they have to make their money somewhere to cover the cost of their plush showroom. Alasdair

They seem a bit high. Thought it was 30/30 for normal load and 33/38 for heavy. Alasdair

Mines a late MK2 12 plate so hope its aa SMF as well. Alasdair

Thank you. For some reason it took 4.6 which was from memory the same as last time. Oil level seems fine at OP temp. Checked old oil that came out and it was 4.6 as well. Maybe something to do with filter? Alasdair

Glad your getting an oil change. One bonus is that you will have a very clean engine Same here re LEZ pain in the a**e but cant do anything about it. Lucky Inverness hasn't got one. Found on mine if your fans come on after engine switch off its a failed dpf regen so needs a good run down a dual carriage next time which wont do a diesel engine any harm. Alasdair