Alasdair1

Think they were meaning the window aerial impedance adapter not the amp in the aerial base. Alasdair

I did see a diagram somewhere but maybe a mk3 with it in top of rear hatch/boot. Alasdair

I agree probaly a short or maybe poor earth somewhere. If there is a bad signal from door locking mechanisms theres no guarantee that all doors will lock so knowing VW/Skoda they may well have a system to disable central locking so you dont leave car with a door unlocked. Just a guess.

My 12 plate 1.6tdi wont start unless clutch depressed but I get no warning message. I read as well re clutch switch for cruise control but also brake switch failure can cause cruise control shut off. I read that the brake switch from memory has two switches so even if the brake lights are working the other switch may be faulty. I think you can check on both switch operation with VCDS. Alasdair

If its the internal seals on the master there will be no signs of failure unless its leaking. Same as the slave. If any are leaking then you should notice a drop in fluid over time. I reckon it may be a master cylinder problem. Alasdair

Had a similar knock on my Octavia Front and rear. On inspecting front drop links they seemed solid with no movement. I decided to replace them anyway and only when they were removed discovered they were worn out. Weird thing was I was convinced it was coming from rear but the front ones were the problem. Theres also a dog bone bush that connects the gbox to chassis or perhaps engine mount. If its clonking all the time it may be coming from there. If replacing it watch the bolt lengths. The shorter one on the fabia MK1 goes at rear below rack. If you mix them up you can damage the steering rack. Alasdair

Sounds like either the master cylinder letting fluid past the seals/leaking or the slave. Check the brake/clutch fluid level. Had one do this on a couple of cars. Clutch went straight to floor and had to lift it up with toe. Pumped a few times and it came back. Eventually master cylinder failed completely. No fluid visible as it was all on the undertray. It drained out when the car was winched onto recovery. Wasnt losing any fluid or very little until it failed completely.

I agree it could be the o2 sensor. Its likely to be the one after the cat. Check that you have no exhaust leaks as well as my sons fabia mk1 had similar problems. His exhaust was leaking at the flexi join. Not by much but it was enough to put eml on. Alasdair

The faint fuel light may be due to the cluster connector being loose or corosion. My old 1.9tdi had weird faint warning lights like ABS and DPF. I dont have a DPF so removed cluster and cleaned contacts and replaced. Cured the faint lights. If the column is all loose maybe someone has had the cluster out and not seated it properly. Disconnect battery before removing cluster as imobilizer can stick on. Check the connectors for the column switches and also see if any earths are coroded. Alasdair

Could very well be a bad sparkplug or failing coil pack. Try swapping around and see if the fault code moves from cylinder to cylinder. As for the squeek my sons mk1 1.2 does the same when going over speed bumps. His just passed an MOT with only advisory being front swing arm bush. Years ago my folks had 1.9tdi that squeaked andthe local garage replaced front bushes but not sure which ones. It squeeked and clonked when braking. Alasdair

Hope its something simple. Old car electrics were bad enough but new ECU based stuff is getting way beyond me. Check all the fuses related to ECU as well. On my sons MK1 there are a few that are linked to ECU. Car could be going through a process before connecting and getting stuck. Used this but not sure how accurate it is but was fine for my sons to find fuses etc. His main strip fuse for brake/ABS had cracked. https://www.startmycar.com/gb/skoda/fabia/info/fusebox Alasdair

Might be that the obd port isnt connecting to one of the pins on the reader. Had problem years ago and the obd socket wasnt making proper contact with the pins in the reader cable. In my case there was dirt/corosion in the cars OBD port. I used a pin to clean and made sure the spring connectors were tight and it came back to life. Check that your actually getting 12v to socket in car and also the earth is good. Sorry not sure what pins are which think pin 16 is 12v supply and 4and5 are earths.

depending on the connections to the new one it might easier to cut wires and crimp on new female insulated spade connectors if you have enough wire length. Make sure you use insulated ones as if they come loose it will stop any shorting out.

Check back along the wiring. There may be another socket connector in line. Alasdair

Sorry dont have a link. Got two off amazon. One was a hella and the other chinese rubbish that didnt work but was so cheap I didnt bother to return it. As said didnt fit exactly but a bead of black silicone sealed it in. Alasdair

Thats a proper failure. Mine went but it was just the seals so loads of smoke but turbo was intact. Once everything has been checked and a new turbo fitted with new oil and filter etc I would change oil and filter after 200 miles to make sure any debris from the old one is removed from engine. Alasdair

I bought an aftermarket Hella one for mine. It didnt quite fit but a small bead of black silicone cured it. Only problem is that it must be a different wattage as my blown bulb light comes on. Not that bothered as its a works car/shed and the brake light got through MOT Alasdair

Does your tank have a tube from cap for expansion. In the past a failed cap on one of my cars was causing coolant to be forced out as the coolant wasnt getting properly pressurised. I put a plastic bottle on end of expansion drain tube to check and found coolant in it after a short journey. Replaced cap and all good. Clean up the emulsified oil from cap and take for a decent run to see if it comes back. If its very slight it could be down to short journeys and condensation. Alasdair

If there is emulsified oil on filler cap it could be the headgasket thats failing/failed and coolant is getting into engine. It can also happen if you do short journeys and the engine doesnt get upto temp. The fact that the coolant is dropping means its got to be going somewhere. Does the car produce any white smoke when running or can you see any crystal deposits around rad,coolant pipes or under car. Check the front passenger carpet as well in case its the heater matrix thats leaking. The oil cooler I think is near the oil filter and looks like this.

You could also try the trick with a length of hose. One end to your ear and move the other end around till the sound gets louder. It could help to track down the area the sounds coming from. Alasdair

Check the plastic linkage for gear selector. It can get stiff and cause sticky gear changes. Had one snap on an old Seat as I had left it for about six months and it seized solid and wouldnt go into 4th/5th. I put a little grease on mine to free it up. Alasdair

Sounds like maybe a vaccum leak. my sons fabia(same model) had the same symptoms The brake servo vaccum hose is prone to splitting at the joins. His was split in a few places. I taped his up and used some jubilee clips and the eratic idle/stalling was cured. He got a lean fault code as well. Hope its an easy fix Alasdair

You used to get a USB adapter that used the CD multichanger slot if you have one. Not sure if they are still available. Alasdair

Had an 09 plate Seat altea with cd fm radio but it had a USB in flip top middle arm rest. My 08 octavia only had a 3.5mm jack plug. I assume there must be radios out there that would fit with the option of an external USB input. I If you have a Halfords/car audio shop near by maybe have a look or ask them. Alasdair

Check the voltage at battery. If its too low then OBD sometimes won't work and make sure that the fuse is making good contact. It should be OBD2 but as its can bus maybe older scanners won't work? Alasdair