Alasdair1

Take the hose off and see if a hydraulic hose company can make you one up. I had similar probs with an old Volvo 940 and my local hydraulic hose company made me one for around £60. That was a few years ago so prices will be higher. Alasdair

Had a quick google of the part number on the aerial amp out of curiosity and LLL parts list it as an impedance convertor for screen aerial so I assume that on one of the windows will have the metal aerial strip and the amp may well be behind the trim Alasdair

I have I assume a window aerial on my Octavia MK2 12 plate. Off side rear side window. Looks like a demister.heater like on the back window? Not sure on Fabia. Alasdair

If its only holding by a couple of threads its obviously not right. Check the bottom ball joints as I think they are side specific as are the track rod ends but they should still have decent thread contact. If they are fitted in reverse then the bend in the track rod end may be puting the alignment way out or perhaps a combination of both. It could also be that one or more of the parts is wrong for the car. Alasdair

Been meaning to do my sons fabia as well but havent got round to it. Found this on here that describes removal and refitting. Did read something about removing bar. Theres a Torx at one end.

Not really but wondering if you disconnect battery for a while and reboot the system. Its hopefully a glitch somewhere that should clear once ecu is reset. Alasdair

Mine does similar with revs sometimes at 1100 I asumed it was trying to regen but the last time I tried to lift accelerator pedal and revs dropped. Havent had a chance to investigate properly but I reckon it may be sticking slightly/not returning fully or the sensor is worn. Not sure why your steering would fail when revs are high at idle though. Alasdair

Have had two cars with the 1.9tdi BXE engine. 58plate octavia and 09 plate Seat altea. Had zero problems with the Octavia apart from usual wear and tear. Excellent MPG 60-70 on long run and plenty power and they both had no DPF. Downside is road tax and not Ulez compliant. On the Altea I have an Engine management problem due to insufficeient EGR flow. Theres a EGR cooler on rear of engine that can cause probs and difficult to get to if it does. I now have a 1.6tdi 12 plate Octavia but would swap it for the 1.9tdi anyday. As long as it has a good service history I reckon the 1.9tdi should be fine. Timing belt isn't that bad to do and do the waterpump at the same time. 90K is nothing for these engines. Mine still runs perfectly at 180k but bodywork has terminal rust. Alasdair

Pop the starter out and see if theres any clutch material visible. On my sons it was covered in fibres. You may also be able to see inside the bell housing. Weird thing with his was one side was about half worn but the other nothing apart from shiny metal. I reckon the rivets gave up due to age. His is an 06 plate and I assume original clutch. Alasdair

Depending on how hard a hit it was there could be chassis damage/alignment problems as well as drive shaft issues and engine/gearbox mounts etc it could be a long list. If you are going to repair it then it might be worth getting it checked for alignment/bent chassis first before spending money on it and discovering its a rightoff. You might be able to get a body shop to check it as a homer/cash for you. Alasdair

It could be the clutch. My sons did exactly the same. No previous slipping and no noises at all. He was coming into our road end and changed down then no drive at all. Could select all gears but still no drive. I assumed drive shaft but they were fine. Eventually removed Gbox and clutch disc had totalled itself. There was no friction material on one side and the bell housing/starter motor was full of fibres. Luckily it was the clutch plate side and not the flywheel so no damage. New clutch and back to normal again pus fitted a new slave just in case. When I had his in our shed with smooth level concrete floor it did try to creep forward when in gear when accelerating but very slightly and could be stopped with very little resistance. Alasdair

Not sure how it secures with lock but maybe something flexible to slide along to see if you can catch the latch? Alasdair

Sons got Phillips xtreme vision 130% in his fabia and I have same in my octavia. A lot better than the standard and reasonably priced too. Think his were about £15 per pair. You can go for the 150% but I found them too bright and didn't last nearly as long. Alasdair

Not sure on yours but My octavia and also Seat altea has the amplifier as part of roof aerial base. Alasdair

Good idea, Used to have similar probs with Volvo 940. Started checking with dial and solved problem by rotating discs until they ran true. It doesnt take much to throw a disc out. Check the calipers are sliding properly as well and as said pistons are moving freely and sliders arent seizing. On my old volvo a sticky rear caliper caused major vibrations felt through whole car. Alasdair

Up here in Inverness theres a good few cars with matt black bonnets and roofs. Suppose its to look like carbon fibre panels?? If you want to go down the boy racer look it might be an option. From your pictures its pretty bad. If the car was younger I would be getting in touch with Skoda for an explanation. Alasdair

Mate did exactly the same on an old Bedford cf van but he used Dulux exterior nondrip gloss for metal with mini roller. Damn thing was shiny for years afterwards and looked surprisingly good. If its just the laquer it might be worth rubbing down to a matt finish and respraying with new laquer. Have the same prob on a MK1 MX5(miata) project. Paint underneath seems solid but laquer is past it. Most paint shops won't touch it as the prep work would cost probably more than the cars worth plus they seem to be making a fortune with insurance jobs. Alasdair

I went for the 2007 haynes as my sons is a late model 06 just in case there was any differenece. So far havent come accross anything that seems out of the ordinary. Bit confusing as his is a 55 plate but is actually March 2006. If the 2006 one is cheaper go for that and if anything crops up post it on here as someone will know. Alasdair

It could be the imobilser. Try another key if you have one. Had problems with an old Seat that the fob transponder had failed. Would start then stop imediately. Fine with the spare fob. It could also be the coil reader in the ignition barel thats not reckognising fob. Alasdair

The door hinges will have triple square spline if you need to take tham off. Not sure how easy it is to align them again. £500 per door seems quite a lot but I suppose by the time the dents removed and door sprayed etc. I looked into getting a few dents removed a few years ago and found the cheapest was small paint shops that don't do insurance jobs. Never did get round to it as Postman totalled the car when it was icy. There are a few mobile companies that will remove dents assuming there not too bad and are removable without painting. Think its called paintless dent removal. Alasdair

Many thanks for the link Alasdair

Thanks for the replies. Will go for a decent run next time it happens. Not sure how long it takes to regen but reckon a run at 60-70 for a while should help Alasdair

Not sure if its had the fix or not. I assume not as car runs very well and plenty power. Have had it for about a year with no probs. Keep meaning to check. Alasdair

Could be a number of things. First I would check wiring from fuel sender/tank It could be a loose/coroded connector. I managed to pull my sons wiring when I had seats down in his fabia and loosened connector although his stopped working completely. It may also be a fault in the fuel level sensor if the range drops as well. An earth fault may cause it as well If they check out ok it could be a fault in the cluster connector or the cluster/guage itself. If you arent able to check yourself perhaps an auto electrician as I reckon its a wiring/electrical fault rather than mechanical.

Hi have a Mk2 1.6tdi 12 plate and randomly when car is up to temp the revs at idle are 1100-1200 rpm. Most of the time it sits at around 800rpm. Not ideal for driving around town especially when in first gear as car wants to go faster than car in front. Just wondering if it might be trying to regen the DPF. No lights or warnings etc on dash. Noticed as well that even though temp sits at 90 the cooling fan comes on when I stop engine for about 20-30secs when the revs have been high at idle. Car usually gets a long run from time to time but mostly shorter journeys. Alasdair