rum4mo

Personally, I wouldn't bother making this unfortunate issue any more painful than it already is. You would need to be able to prove that no one did anything to that car to contribute to this failure, Skoda don't need to prove it provided you with a faulty car, well that is the way I'd look at this.

I'm sure that I read that somewhere, maybe even in the driver's manual, certainly, when the alarm on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI was triggered, probably by a passing truck while that car was parked in a pub cark park, that had never happened before, and never again in the following maybe 2 years, on that occasion, as I had remembered that fact, I did check the flashing of the LED, and it was flashing quicker than normal. One of the bar staff did ask who owned the silver Polo as its alarm had gone off - and that was my wife's car, so this was not just me guessing.

Does the flashing rate of the driver's door LED not indicate if there has been an alarm being triggered event(s), even although, by law, it will have reset the "horn" if connected and the indicators flashing? Edit:- ie the LED will remain flashing at a higher rate than normal until the car alarm has been switched off by unlocking the car.

Whoops, wrong thread! Or even wrong forum!! Deleted.

Yes that earth post is painted, but, I've found that as you tend to use a clip that has sharp teeth on it, clamping that to that earth post and maybe moving it around a bit, will provide a good enough connection to let you change the battery, other than that, fix the -VE clamp of the charger to the metalwork of the engine. Edit:- I bought a used Audi earth post a few years ago, as they are plated and so don't end up getting painted, but I think that I'll need to drill out the thread in it and increase the thread size before it can get fitted to my wife's Polo - as it looks like the earth post in your picture is fixing to a bigger size of stud. Just another job in progress!!

My only VW Group remote cell battery brand is Panasonic as is what was fitted originally, always worked for me, some people like to buy large "cards" of button cell batteries for next to no money!

If you have a BMS "lump" on the battery -VE then coding in a new battery is the correct thing to do, the general rule tends to be "has it got auto Stop/Start" but early on smart charging etc came before auto Stop/Start and all smart charging meant having a module on the battery -VE, so checking for that is the best plan - this module on the battery -VE will have a plug/socket and so a cable coming away from it.

Ah, the intake elbow on the turbo on the 1.0TSI, well, my younger daughter and her hubby have a used 2019 SEAT Arona 1.0TSI 115PS, they handed it in to a local "german car" specialist for its year 4 service, and included in that service was a "remove and check the condition of the air cleaner element" not something that I would expect to get done - why remove and check when it is due replacement at year 6 service, either remove and replace with a new element or don't touch it. Anyway, 3 months later, they came up 500+miles to stay with us and I had bought a new set of spark plugs, so I went to fit them. I removed/moved the constant tension band on each side of the air cleaner assembly and eased it up off the 3 mounting points, then walked to one side to lay it down - and heard something drop off - the top section of that inlet manifold had been ripped off the hard plastic lower section and it was only possibly the fact that the top part had never been separated from the air cleaner since factory line assembly, that meant that that part, while loose and almost free to separate from the air cleaner still stayed with the rubbery top section of the intake manifold for a few seconds before dropping off. I didn't expect that and didn't think that I could have forced that rubbery top part back onto the hard plastic elbow, so just tried to make sure that it was sitting as close to the hard plastic as possible when everything was back in place, they were driving back down to London the next day, so the best that I could do was to get a new intake manifold ordered in locally, really so that I could satisfy my curiosity of how firmly the two parts of that intake manifold are fixed together, before posting it down to them with the advice that "get it handed in ASAP to get sorted out" - that is still to happen as they seem to have busy lives, I'm suggested no pointing of fingers, what has been done has been done, just pay that garage to fit that new part and hand them back the old two bits and send them back up to me so that I can have a look at them, crap happens, move on. Edit:- by the way, I've already removed the air cleaner from my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI twice, so it wasn't me that used EXTREME force to get that air cleaner, probably with its output constant tension band still on out and off the top of that engine.

I should have included that the control stalk could also be a contender, many failures across the VW Group marques for this size of car, well at least in the early days of this model.

There will be a relay but it will be built into a control module, have you checked to make sure that there is not a wiring failure probably where the wires pass between the body of the car and the rear hatch? Also maybe any wiring fault has caused a fuse to blow. So a few things to consider before buying another wiper assembly.

Probably best taking the bigger money hit and handing it into either a proper VW Group Indie or a Skoda workshop as they should have a better idea of why this is happening. Too late to ask now, but did that local garage check the EVAP valve to make sure it was actually faulty. Maybe include your engine type - and code if possible.

For anyone else needing to do this sort of thing, maybe get hold of a pair of hooked tools and insert them through to the back of the vent assembly, and pull both at the same time. Some VW Group marques/models, have holes in the body of these vents there specifically to help with removing these vents, and so you just use a suitable L shaped or hooked tool to pull the vents out, I did that on my old 2011 Audi S4, initially using an suitably sized allen key gripped with pliers or visegrips, once I found examined the first one I removed, I used something more suitable to remove the next vent.

Mintex, I seem to recall, is the "aftermarket only" member of the TMD Friction family of companies, the main players are Textar and Pagid, who both operate in the OE and aftermarket sectors - though some might consider that Pagid have a bit of strange agreement with ECP concerning the supply of some items, as, it seems, that ECP claim to be the sole importer of their parts into UK. Maybe by now TMD have themselves joined an even bigger auto parts groups, most things tend towards ZF it seems. I've used Pagid a few times with no issues, so, at least for my wife's 2015 Polo, I'd probably buy their bits for when that car needs new discs and pads, but that time has not come yet.

It does sound like being quite a bit early in the life of a car to have a faulty rear wiper - I hope that your garage fitted a suitable "like for like" replacement - as most of these small wipers are. My wife's previous car, a 2002 VW Polo did end up at maybe 8 years old, with the washer fluid spray bar rotating with the wiper arm, but I managed to sort that out with a repair kit of bits, so far, that is the only car with a rear wiper that I've ever had trouble with with the rear wiper.

My point wrt the pricing of Valeo wipers for the SEAT Arona was that they were unusually more expensive for the "exact fit" aftermarket versions for that specific car when compared with the price of Bosch "exact fit" aftermarket ones, for most cars Valeo aftermarket and Bosch aftermarket are the same price or close, just what I discovered when pricing new aftermarket wipers for that Arona. Also, but not relevant here, the recently released Valeo bacterial pollen filters for that specific car are seriously more expensive than the similar established item from Mann - but I put that down to just because that model of car and its other VW Group stablemates, are reasonably new to the market place and so prices might level out given time. I too don't plan to buy cheap or not so cheap "fit all using suitable adaptors" wipers, in fact I've found that buying NOS genuine VW Group wiper blade packs, can mean not paying much money - but doing that involves a bit more time and patience than I'd normally have. Remember Bosch is or was, or can be, a factory supplier of wiper arms and blades, just like Valeo can be. Edit:- my additional comments about "Valeo bacterial pollen filters" is probably total ba--ocks - I was thinking about Mahle's newish offerings, so ignore that bit. Valeo, in terms of their at least rear lighting assemblies that they manufacture for SEAT, have a very high failure rate in that they end up leaking, now you could say that that is down to SEAT desiring classy/stylish rear lighting cluster designs, but most smart manufacturers would try to force their customer to change their designs if it looks like the final assemblies will end up failing and so, in some way give the supplier a bad name.

I used to aim to replace like for like, sometimes that meant Bosch and sometimes that meant Valeo. On my younger daughter’s 2019 SEAT Arona, I thought that they were Valeo, but the price for Valeo wipers for that specific car were crazy when compared with the correct Bosch offering - which were slightly longer than the originals, but fitted and work perfectly. I think that VW Group, for newer cars tend to fit GM or is that MG, ie General Mogul/ Mogul General which include Champion!

Not quite, but when I went looking yesterday, I did see that site, the Vodaphone Automotive website certainly didn’t seem to be aimed at the buyer, so buying from there or another seller should work okay. I noticed that the front sensor kit requires a button to switch it on if not moving backwards, that is the same for the front genuine set I fitted to my 2011 Audi S4, after driving my wife’s 2015 VW Polo, that has front and rear sensors from factory, it can be quite easy to drive close to something in front, forgetting that the front sensors on my S4 will not be switched on - so far I’ve escaped touching anything!

I'm not up to date with this, but, when I last looked, at least VW and SEAT offered an aftermarket kit initially a re-branded Cobra Alarms kit, but then Vodaphone Auto, I think, bought over Cobra Alarms or that part of the Cobra business, and so these kits became VW or SEAT re-branded Vodaphone Auto kits. I might be wrong with this Vodaphone company name it might even be Vodaphone Automotive or similar. These kits should give the same visual appearance as the factory fitted VW Group kits, but again they will not integrate with the car's infotainment system, but, because of this, they will be seriously cheaper to get fitted to your car. I went down the "factory fit" route for my car when I bought my wife a VW Polo 1.2TSI SEL, it sort of became a project as I was interested in retro fitting as close to factory fitted as possible, and even in parts, some bought used, it cost a serious chunk of money, but it kept me happy! If VW Group, or as in your case, Skoda, do not still sell these kits, then maybe look up Vodaphone Automotive or Auto and see if they still sell these kits.

Absolutely, I've never waited until wiper blades get that bad, it is one thing expecting quite a few years of use out of wiper blades on a car that gets garaged and is only outside for short periods, but another for cars left outside at all times, sunlight will be the main reason that they go hard.

As per @AGFalco posting, that is what I did back in 2015 when we replaced my wife's 2002 VW Polo, I think that I got quotes to supply from 3 online brokers, but, if you have a car that still has quite a bit of value, then off loading that first some way out with the dealership chain must be the way to go, if I were you I'd be approaching a dealership for a price to hand that car over and walk away, doing that will get you see how little you can claw back by doing that!

Hummmm, some of the time, as some people have discovered, Carista have not got things right, most people using VCDS, hopefully, will only be making changes that they understand, some people using Carista will be trusting that Carista have fully tested all these "one click" changes as they probably know zip all about how it is being achieved by Carista. By the way, I do have VCDS and use Carista - but I only use Carista for simple and hopefully well tested and fool proof changes like service resets.

Audi use closed cell preformed hard foam stuff in these positions on my S4, and the mice just loved it, they also loved the exact same material under the wheel arch in my daughter's previous 2009 SEAT Ibiza, and the field mice loved that as well. Well at least the local field mouse family that hung about in Winter 2017 did, so all got trapped! I always thought that the plan was to make sure that all "external" materials in modern cars repelled rodents.

Sorry I was being lazy, the last letter. So CJZC = 90PS and CJZD = 110PS. I suppose all plastics age and so either flow or go hard, so that I think, is just a cop out answer. I thought that after a certain date, all MOT stations needed to have a means to assess dampers, maybe not. My wife's 2015 VW Polo got its latest MOT in late July/early August, and passed as usual with no advisories, but 14 days later there was a clanking sort of noise coming from the front right hand side suspension, I examined the suspension while the car was up on wooden ramps and could not detect any issues, a week later I raised it up off its wheels onto 4 jack stands, and then I spotted that the TCA rear rubber voided mounted was starting to separate from the metal insert - so maybe that is what was causing that clunking, which has not returned over the past month - and that means that that MOT person did a good job as it was not yet starting to get to the advisory stage in its service life. I am going to replace the rear bump stops on that 2015 Polo soon, and I'll not be grumpy if the rear dampers are not now dampers, they look okay with no misting, but doing that job will give me a chance to check them both and replace if necessary. VW Group seem to advise against warranty replacement of dampers, especially front ones if they are misting, to me, I'd think that is oil is misting out, then gas will also be getting out! My daughter's 2019 Leon Cupra has misting front dampers, that was noted back in May, but I'd rather she got a VW Group Indie to replace them as they are adaptive.

I'll just add in, as the question has been asked, that I tend to fit "Audi TT Jacking Point Protectors" to the 4 points on these cars where it has been deemed safe/suitable to use a trolley jack on - then use jack stands with suitably shaped and padded at the 4 side sill strong points.

By the way, the 90PS is a "C" and the 110PS is a "D" - to answer the question why 2 output power ratings for one engine code.