Danoid

You may need to take in consideration that is during the Covid years, could be as simple as too hard to get it booked in and they done the service themself or it was serviced at a different garage. I wouldn’t be concerned at all, especially as I took ownership of my mums old Passat b5.5 which didn’t have an oil change in 10 years!! Ran perfectly but obviously I did change it when I owned it

Excellent thank you, it’s been behaving correctly recently but it’s clearly on its way out, job for warmer months

Have you got a link to the camera you got please? I’ve been debating whether to get one, as long as it’s 100% plug and play, no cables to cut and splice into I’m interested. Looks like your car is a 2016 too, mines an estate if that matters for the camera link Thanks

Ah, I thought so, I’ve got exactly the same issue From the video I’ve seen there’s a tiny pin, did you remove that and not use it? From what I can tell it’s only there until it’s inside the car then it can be removed but not entirely sure

Parking switch?

Have a look for a good independent garage who specialises in ze German cars The problem with all motorway miles is the revs are low, so a good thrashing when warm is good but that also causes more soot. When safe to do so go on the motorway but keep it in low gear for 15 mins so the revs around 2.5k

If it was me it would go back and I’d look elsewhere, purely because if I buy a car I expect it to be tip top and not have to worry over something. If it was an ABS sensor which I had recently it was very easy to diagnose, firstly there was a fault and secondly I was able to do a live scan and see that one of abs sensor was recording 0kph, others were receiving speeds, £40 later and I bought and replaced it and job done. Go here and enter your reg https://www.tayna.co.uk/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23075948330&gbraid=0AAAAADtA3JfkKNBjGbzc-58IXDD5RbPbo Look for Varta AGM battery (probably best you can get) if the dealer won’t pay for it and to have it “coded” in then yeah give it back. Also for a car that’s at temp the idle speed looks way too high, can’t remember if mine was higher when abs sensor was knackered but car was grim to drive, started off okay but as soon as I got off my drive and drove all the errors popped up

I made a guide for someone on here not too long ago, it’s quite in depth but have a read Skoda Columbus Map Update.pdf

They do make cars financially sustainable, but for them not us

As you’re off https://www.tufferman.co.uk/collections/garage-shelving-v1 ahem

Personally the new ppm for hybrids and EV’s put me off longer, nor would I get a hatchback as estates much more appealing

The only thing I can think of which I’m sure you’ve done is adjust the seat to ne higher then lower the steering column if needed

There’s that but still there’s no E marked ones available that I’m aware of Annoying as I’d love them

Be careful with putting leds in, will void insurance and could get pulled over. Apparently they’re cracking down on retrofits because of “dazzling”

Anyone?

Annoyingly my cars started erroring with the Workshop P error message I’m aware there’s the bypass kit which looks fairly fiddly but do-able, however I don’t have the message all the time, is there anything I can do other than fitting the bypass kit? Think mines a DQ250? 2016 190ps 6speed I had a quick look and the plastic bits are white on mine

What’s the requirement? I ask this because there is an option for something like Easy Entry, but needs coding I believe the seat goes back when you open the door, then goes back to your set position with ignition on Might be an option?

I’ve got the SEL, so standard suspension, yes it’s soft but in UK it’s perfect because nearly all road surfaces crap and you can at least have a conversation Father in laws Audi A4 black edition has mix firmer suspension and can’t talk in it because it’s such a harsh ride Until roads are built and maintained properly I’ll always go with softer suspension

It does need some parameters to be changed for optimal battery performance What was the error code?

Hmm why did you change the abs wiring loom and which one? You really need to get it scanned before chucking parts at it. Looks like wheel speed sensor issues as I’ve had that recently but a scan will show you whats up

Basically you can take the old battery out and put a new one in and off you go, but the car will still believe it’s a degraded battery and not charge fully or something like that. If you have an AGM battery type now and put in a new Varta as an example it’ll be 70ah instead of 68ah, so that needs changing as well as the serial number. It can be done using vcds, obd11 etc etc VCDS isn’t cheap but imo the best diagnostic tool, as our cars are getting older it made sense to get to invest in vcds as garages charge a fortune just to check

I’d recommend getting the battery changed and “coded” in Temperature seem odd but not sure what that’s about

So two things, when was the battery last changed? An aging battery can cause this Have you had it scanned? I recently had all of these and it was right rear ABS sensor When I scanned mine it said there was a fault on rear left, but I also used measuring blocks in VCDS to confirm, in the measuring blocks I selected all the ABS sensors, went for a drive and all reported speeds apart from rear left, boom confirmed the issue, £40 later and fixed. The rear left seems to be the most common, but you need it scanned

Might be worth just factory resetting, then set up Bluetooth again

In the “olden” days you could remove the back light cover and turn a lever up/down on both sides and jobs a goodun I suspect it has this but no idea where Just to confirm this is where you checked the travel mode