pikpilot

There are a number of conditions that must be met before regeneration can start. I can't remember them all off hand but apart the revs and load mentioned before, it includes oil temperature, water temperature, DPF temperatute and more than a certain amount of fuel in the tank. The basic trigger is high soot content. You can't burn soot to create ash if there is not enought soot there. Then you have to wait for for the other conditions to be met. There was a good video by VAG a few years ago explaining the process. Anyone got a link?

Not immediatly helpful but read others experiece with this problem here A scan with VCDS would also help.

This can also be an early sign that the alarm system has reached end of life and must be replaced. Skoda recomend changing the alarm around 6-7 years. If you leave it as is, the next stage is waking your neighbours during the night. End of life can be caused by the internal battery failing or the battery oozing out corrosive liquid which damages the printed circuit board. See the thread on the alarm in ths sticky section of this forum.

That rules out one possibilty. Did you check the elephants trunk for broken wires? The controller in the driver's door sends signals to the other doors.

Take a look for broken wires in the rubber snake that goes from the drivers door to the body. Also check that you have a "drivers door open" icon on the dash when that door is open.

Are you sure it is just fuel on the plug. The photos suggest oil as well.

With oil ash so low the DPF must have been cleaned or replaced before you got the car. My oil ash is around 33grams after 75,000 miles. Mostly fast roads/motorways with some city driving for the first 53,000 miles and mostly short trips with occasional 200mile fast roads. Normally a regen only occurs on longer journeys and takes about 20-30 minutes but in your case it would appear your soot content was very high so it took much longer. I will see if I can reload the pictures as pdfs.

That is correct. It shows how full the DPF is. What was your final oil ash weight in grams? Looks like you have done it and now have a good DPF. Well done The way this forum handles pictures means sometimes the pictures appear as pictures and sometimes as a long winded text link. To see the later, click on the text then on the new black page that appears, click on the little icon in the centre. This will then show the picture as a picture. What was your final oil ash weight in grams?

Just to show how confusing these results are, below is a picture produced later than the ones above and shows a % full line of only 16%. As I said before, it is only the ash content which is a true indicator of the state of the DPF.

Latest update on all owners manuals, past and present models. https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Here are some copies from the same app and the same CAYC engine in my car. The first one is after my last regeneration. Note it says 82% full, oil ash residue 30 grams (44%). The second picture (below) shows the previous test when the regen was interupted as I had arrived home. Note the red icon you mentioned which in my case indicated only partial regen. The field regen box shows a 10, which I guess means the same thing. The third picture below shows a similar oil ash content to the first picture but 63% full I too have a lot of short drives these days followed by an occasional long drive of around 200 miles+. My conclusion is that oil ash residue that blocks the DPF and is the only thing you need to worry about. The soot mass is really an indication that another regen is going to me needed soon. I tend to use the % bar only as a general guide. The three photos are in reverse sequence over a 2 year period. If the DPF warning light (mine never has) comes on, the car manual says "To clean the diesel particle filter, the vehicle should be driven at an even speed of at least 60 km/h » at engine speeds of 1 800 - 2 500 rpm for at least 15 minutes or until the warning light goes out with the 4th or 5th gear engaged (automatic gearbox: position S) when the traffic situation permits it." When you tried a regen you may have had the revs too high. It needs high torque which is why it says less than 2500 rpm in 4th or 5th gear. "Field regen is a process that can only be done by a garage as it can be a fire risk. Basicaly it means burning the soot away by changing the fuel ratio to increase the exhaust gas temperature. Your post has reminded me that I need to check my DPF again as I have recently had two injectors replaced and I want to know if it has had any effect on the DPF.

Rust is most unlikely on the OP's Estate wiper motor as washer fluid does not go through the wiper motor. The problem with my estate wiper motor was the commutator brushes sticking in their holders. Slightly sanding down the sides of the brushes fixed it.

What is the code as read by your code reader? Check your code here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Fault_Codes Usual cause is a faulty sensor, broken wire or, less so, corrosion of the magnetic pulse ring. The code will tell you which wheel has the problem. There is no fuse directly associated with this circuit.

Assuming the 1.4 is similar to the 1.6, the electric water pump comes on after you have stopped the engine and runs for about 10 seconds in most instances. Its purpose is to avoid leaving hot spots in the engine. The motor is quiet but can be heard with non noisy backgrounds.

Sensible move. Better the car you know.............

I had an injector fail on mine over Xmas. Luckily I was able to imediately lift my foot off of the the accellerator (which then cuts the fuel supply) and coast into a layby. The car was not used again until after two injectors were replaced. Skoda price for one injector is over £600 without labour or VAT, I suggest you look around locally for quotes and also for a VAG specialist, if available. History shows that once injectors start to fail then you will end up replacing them all. I will change the other two shortly at my convenience. Another way of looking at the cost is to ask how much it would cost you to replace the car. Also factor in the depreciation if it is a newer car and the unknown faults a same age car might have.

My number 3 injector failed on our way home from Xmas with relatives. The AA confirmed injector 3 had failed. As I have full AA cover they transported us and the car home (so I could take out suitcases etc) on then carried on with the car to my garage of choice. The garage replaced injector 3 and I agreed they also replace injector 2 as it was well out of spec. Other posts on this forum sugest that once injectors fail on the 1.6L CAYC engine, remaiming old injectors will fail soon after. I plan to change the other two in the spring. I think that once you get injector failure codes you may be able to reset the codes and carry on for few miles but inevitably you will find you need to change the injector. Reseting the failure code can also convince you that the fault is intermittent as you can drive with no code until you demand high torque such as by accelerating to pass someone while climbing a hill.

It wasn't quite the same noise as yours but my noise was the stone protection cover (tube) over the shock absorber shaft at the rear. Sometimes this tube is part of the shock absorber but on the Octavia it is hangs down from the bump stop. If the bump stop fails (made of rubber) the tube drops down and rattles. Just a thought and easily checked. Tube is part 14 and bump stop part 2 on this drawing:-

On my 2012 Estate (different wiper motor to the hatch) the same fault was caused by worn brushes in the motor. The hatch uses a motor which also has the washer pipe inside the shaft and so introduces other causes of failure.

What fault diagnostic codes are present now?

You may have a problem with the fog lights in auto settings but just to rule out any confusion about cornering lights by using the front fog lights, here is the action list. If cornering lights have been activated, then below a certain speed and light level:- 1) turning the wheels for a left turn will only turn on the left fog light 2) turning the wheels for a right turn will only turn on the right fog light 3) putting on the indicators will turn on the same side fog light 4) putting the car into reverse will turn on both fog lights This last action sounds daft but is actually very useful for those of us in the dark countryside as it adds extra stray light to the hedges.

Or the battery voltage was too low intil you had driven it a few miles. The electronics on these cars require a normal votage. It may still be possible to start the car with low battery voltage or temperature and see strange icons the display until the battery has further recharged. Or, as in your case, the indicators could be affected. Having said that, it could be as siiiim suggested. There is post in this forum or perhaps the Octavia Mk1 forum that shows how to clean the contacts.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16787/P0403/001027 Looks like it could be an EGR fault. Generic code readers sometimes get it wrong unless they allow you put in your car details.

When you remotely unlock the car it will turn on the interior light plus the useful puddle lights in the wing mirrors. You can add dipped beam to this if "leaving home" is available which I think means having auto lights and maybe a different set of features in the software pack. Yes you do. If you flash the lights when you are still in the car then they will come on as you open the door (but cancels if you leave it too long). The count down delay to turn off the car lights starts when you lock the car doors. With my delay set at max it gives me enough time to walk 30-40 feet to my front door, get out my key and unlock the front door of the house. I did all the programing on mine with the Carista app, of which this is just one of many changes.

Try flashing the headlights in the normal way just before you leave the car. This is the method (once activated) for switching on coming home lights when you don't have auto lights and may give you a clue to what is happening. Coming home lights puts on the dipped beam plus sidelights front and rear and drls. The on duration is also adjustable. I use this feature frequently as there are no streetlights here and most people have a longish drive so their outsides lights are no use to me.