pikpilot

The spec of the unit says there is no DAB capability, only AM and FM: Radio - Main Chips: TDA7708 - AM Frequency Range: 522-1620KHz - AM Increment: 9KHz(EU)/10KHz(US) - FM Tuning Range: 87.5-108MHz - FM Increment: 0.05MHz(EU)/0.1MHz(US) - FM Area: Europe/USA1/USA2/Japan/Russia - RDS: On/Off - Preset Stations: 30(FM 3*6, AM 2*6) It also has a capabilty for an external DAB tuner: DAB(+)-IN - Built-in DAB Player App: Yes, just connect a DAB-Receiver to use this function - Connection Port: USB - Power Supply to DAB-Receiver directly: Yes - Touch Control DAB-Receiver on unit: Yes - DAB-Receiver incl.: No, you can contact us to buy it together So you need to buy the optional external DAB receiver. An aerial will be required and some will work mounted inside the dash when driving in towns.

The resistor controls the fan speed, not the temperature. You have done a flap reset but can you check (hear?) the mixer flap actually moving? The other possibility is that the hot water is limited in flow rate or temperature. Open the bonnet and at the firewall you will see two water hoses going through to the heater. Check that both are hot with all settings of the heater setting. Suspect a collapsed hose or failed thermostat.

It is a DMF.

Mine has the same problem on hot days in summer when the car has been standing in the sun. Once the car has cooled down (driving a couple of miles with air con on) it is ok until the next really hot day. It is/was the same before and after changing the door control unit in the driver's door. I suspect it is the comfort control module behind/below the dash - the electronics not liking the heat. However it could be metal expansion of the microswitch operating lever. The Octavia II is different to that shown in the link. A small warning. If the door has been opened and the door open icon is not displayed. the car will self lock after about 10 minutes even with key in the lock. Always have a key with you if the engine is not running.

It is usually the plug that goes into a socket on the seat frame. it is roughly in the centre or slightly forward.

Often caused by disturbing the wiring or connectors under the drivers seat. Did the garage vacuum clean the carpets? But, as said, even if you find a fault and fix it, you will need the correct software to unlatch the fault display.

Easyto check for temperature by hand on each wheel centre. I towed an aircraft trailer on which the handbrake was not releasing on one side. Not only was the axle bearing hot, the grease was boiling! Doesn't need of a brake bind to give poor mpg.

You are not the first to find this but it is not common. Some other posts in this forum show similar but not recently. I think you know what to do.

A good place to look for help with fault codes is the Ross-Tech fault codes list here and the their wiki. Following the above I found a post in the forum saying one person found your new code came up because of a sticky butterfly valve and fixed it with a lttle WD40! Look for the thread in the Car Repair forum for Code 001592 p0638 Throttle Body Actuator Bank 1 (J338) Also look at other threads for further help.

As post above says plus it is common to have driver's door controller fail, including mine. The lights you mentioned will not come if the door open icon does not come on as it thinks the door is still closed.

That's what happenned to me when the humidy was high after days of rain and condesation in the car. Left the windows open on a sunny day and everthing fixed.

All cables must be fused. The fuse must be rated to protect the cable and not the the load. You can of course put in a smaller fuse to protect both if you wish. Many car fires are cuased by individuals running a cable to loads such as a winch, roof lights or bass amplifiers without even giving a thought to putting in a fuse where the cable picks up up its power, such as straight onto the battery.

The information that the boot is open is not getting to the display. Usual reasons are a faulty switch in the boot lock or a broken wire. Which leads on to: The rear wiper is inibited if it thinks the boot is open.

The first thing I would do is check the battery is good by substitution The next thing I would do is check phyically and with a multimeter that the connections from the battery are being made. This means +12V and return (0V) are made at each point from the battery to the point of use. Check for corrosion at joints, for broken and corroded wires including the insulation over wires near connections. Investigate any wires that show black rather than copper coloured inside. Check for open fuses at the battery distribution fusebox and then downstream fuses, particularly at the relays used for distribution and relief contacts. If you are not happy with electrical fault finding then an auto electrician would not charge too much. My guess is that you have failing connection caused by an intermittent damaged wire or corrosion.

Does the temp gauge read 90C ? If an airlock, then you can check by seeing if both pipes to the heater matrix are hot. You can see the pipes going through the bulkhead around the centre of the car. The two pipes are the only ones close together. Diesels take longer to warm up the coolant than petrol cars.

Have you reset the gear linkage to take up any wear in cables? It is a simple job described in the Haynes manual and in many YouTube videos such as this

Yes is it very easy. You just need to apply a good car polish. I use Armour All Shield and it lasts over three years between applications. I believe it is now even available in Halfords. Very good in hot climates such as California. Used on the car body, it produces a finish that is very shiny and dirt just washes away next time it rains.

Do you get door open icons on the dash? With your after market system you may not. If you see icons on the dash when you open the boot, bonnet rear side doors and front passenger door but not for the drivers door, I would suspect the drivers door control unit or, much more likely, a broken wire in the wire harness that runs in the flexible hose from the door aperture to the drivers door. Pull the hose from the body and check the wires inside.

It will go back to normal when dry. They extra lit icons on the dash varied, depending on the indicator stalk and other controls.

As I found out, this problem happens if there has been condensation in the car. If you have climatronics then make sure it is set to auto so it can control the humidity. If you don't have it, then open the windows on a warm dry day to dry it out.

What do you mean by boarding lights? Not a term I have come across on VAG cars. Do you mean the light at the bottom of the door card? or the downlight in the door mirror? Interior lights come on when getting in the car?

I have recently acquired this problem. I watched as a ladybird landed on my side of the driver side window. I wound the glass down to remove it but it remained on the glass and disappeared into the door. I then wound the glass up again but the glass now squeaked but no sign of the ladybird. It still squeaks in dry weather but not after rain. My guess is that the ladybird is stuck on the glass or mechanism lower down and the carapase (hard covers over the wings) are causing the squeaking where they touch the moving glass. I hope within a few weeks the ladybird will be no more. I am also looking for a long thin strip of hard plastic that I can slide into the gap beside the glass to wiggle around to free this and any other obstruction.

You or previous owner were lucky that the wire from the battery did not cause a fire. I doubt that the ECU has failed. More likely the unfused cable had been bundled with other cables (such as in the A pillar) and caused further damage to those cables. A "new" ecu may have to be programmed with any options that you had such as beeps on door locking/unlocking or rear wiper active when in reverse gear and it is raining. Either way I suggest you go to an auto electrician with a good reputation. To answer your question, that can be done by Skoda or an auto electrician with the right equipment.

1.6L CAYC engine is notorious for injector failure. It was injector 1 that failed first on mine (usually the first to go) and the garage also changed injector 2 it was not showing good signs. There are enough people who have said that once an injector fails on this engine, the others will fail soon afterwards. I had the other two injectors changed by a VAG specialist garage at a lower cost within a month before they could fail. My car might be considered an old car but it suits my needs perfectly so I have chosen to keep the car maintained rather than buy a newer model with high depreciation. When my first injector failed the car could be restarted normally but it soon failed again. This engine was the subject of a "dieselgate" improvement. It was optional but dealers followed the VAG line by saying it was a mandatory recall. It wasn't. It consisted of a software change plus an "air straightener" in the hose after the air filter. If you have this added part it is a sign that the service action (as they called it) has been carried out. This service action can cause other parts to fail - especially the EGR valve and, say some people, injectors. Compensation was paid to owners who claimed but the scheme has now closed.

It is confusing when you say key. Do you men the key blade that you put in the door handle or the buttons on the remote? If you use the actual key blade in the door handle and it works then it is not a car problem. Please confirm you have tried this. It looks like two of the remote buttons work (boot open and all lock) but not the unlock button. If so it a failure in the remote key. This can happen if the remote has been dropped onto a hard surface or the contacts are corroded (such as being dropped in liquids, coca cola etc.) Spare keys can be bought on line but will need to be coded to your car. Alternatively, Skoda will sell you a new fully coded remote key (based on your VIN number and proof of ownership) for a couple of hundred pounds.