Breezy_Pete

He has highlighted the colour-code key inside the rectangle on the right. Match the (German) abbreviation letters by each wire to the English translation of the colour in that key. G6 is fuel pump motor, G is fuel level sender.

Chain timing error probably will give a code stored in engine ECU.

Cam-to-cam timing looks to be OK 👍. Crank angle sensor might cause non-starting, and may or may not give a fault code. Awkward to change though, probably better to confirm crank to cams timing first. Fuel quantity in tank? Any chance of mis-fuelling with diesel?

I don't have wiring info for this vehicle, but the best place to be asking for this help is not this sub-forum. I will ask a moderator to move it to this one Skoda Favorit, Skoda Felicia, Skoda Fun and Skoda Forman - BRISKODA

The 'onboard power supply control unit' (J519 in circuits, module 09 in VCDS), controls the turn signals. There's probably an adaptation choice of do/don't flash turn signals as confirmation of locking. This may need re-setting for some reason. The same module possibly has a enable/disable 'comfort opening/closing of windows' adaptation which may also require refreshing.

The covers in question are held on by a single M6 screw each; I suspect you've mis-understood where I mean. This is a photo of the gearbox end of the engine, with cam end covers removed, and some flat aluminium plates inserted into the slots in the ends of the cams. the Allen key sits flat across them with the engine at no.1 top dead centre.

Check fuses 29 (10 Amp) and 30 (20 Amp), which feed injectors and coilpacks respectively. Could be a chain slip though, possibly. There's a cover over the gearbox end of each camshaft. Remove those and there are some slots in the ends of the cams. These should be at the same angle as each other, and horizontal at No.1 TDC.

Drum.

Slacken off lots at the adjustment in cabin, everything gets easier.

Unplug the one that's easiest to find the connector for, probably nearest engine.

No way the car can know how much refrigerant is in the system. Except when there becomes 'not enough to operate A/C'.

08.07.2014 🙂

I think the hissing noise does indicate low refrigerant quantity, but it's how the evaporator valve sounds in that situation, rather than the sound of the leak itself.

See thread title

Wrong unit. The one that does locking stuff is above clutch pedal on RHD cars, above accelerator pedal on LHD. Not worth trying to access, as it has nothing to do with windows in this case. Windows are only controlled by driver's and passenger window motor modules, and the inputs they get from lock modules and switches. There may be redundancy in the earth connections, so that observation may not be a problem. I would try to measure from pin 3 - yellow/blue wire - of WM connector to (known good) chassis/earth while key is in various positions in the lock. What I'd expect to see is that when key isn't in lock, or is in central/neutral position, that pin will not be connected to earth at all. When key is in lock position (for as long as it's held there) that wire should have direct connection to earth, zero Ohms. When key is in unlock position, it should have 180 Ohms to earth. But only while key is held there.

The only thing I'd expect that to do is to stop the central locking from opening the other doors when driver's door is opened with key. Where's that red connector from in first pic?

SA1 is the fuse it goes to.

That alternator output wire doesn't go to the starter motor, it goes direct to the leftmost (as viewed from front of car looking into bay) big vertical fuses at front of engine bay fusebox. Wire gauge depends on alternator rating fitted, 16mm squared unless it's a 140A alt, then its 25mm sq. Looking at your earlier pic, it appears to be a 140A alt.

Ah, OK, that probably is the right one then. Until you put reg number in that Specifications tab isn't there. I'd think it's extremely unlikely that fault is being caused by a fuel filter issue. Much more likely an air leak. Have you checked the brake servo vacuum hose recently?

Can't see any useful details on that ECP page, or the product details page. Typically unhelpful. Does it say anything about the pressure rating on the Halfords page? Why are you changing it? Generally a waste of time and money, and almost never solves a problem. Unless wrong one currently fitted.

"Sorry page not found"

Genuine part number for your car including 3 bar pressure regulator is 6Q0 201 051 B. that's been superseded by 6Q0 201 051 H. Other readers with same BME engine code should not assume that it's the same for theirs. Some have 4 bar systems, I believe, and getting it wrong will cause no end of trouble. Judging by the fact that your car does appear to have an EGR valve (to the right of exhaust manifold as you look into engine bay?), it's possible that the change in fuel pressure coincides with the removal of this valve in later cars with BME engines. Not sure though.

Tell me the VIN (or reg number) and I can tell you the genuine part number to match, and bar rating of the regulator part.

Couple of annotated screenshots that show relevant circuit info. J386 is driver's window motor module. F220 is driver's door lock module. J393 is central convenience control unit. Orange boxes are lock/key position related stuff, brown boxes earths, green arrow is the microswitch that closes when key is turned to unlock, and earths that yellow/blue wire via the resistor shown above and to the right of it. I believe that's 180 Ohms. Circles with 205 inside are a splice/join of multiple wires in the door loom. Circle with 372 similarly a splice/connection in the cabin loom. T28a is the connector at A-pillar. The key position signal goes from lock connector pin 4, into window motor pin 3, then comes out again (not a direct connection between the two pins) on pin 10, heading for the central convenience control unit where it does central locking functions. I've known problems on these motor types be solved by hard-linking the thin brown wire going into pin 7 at the window motor to the thick brown one on pin 8. No harm in trying this I don't think, it's linked in copper on the circuit board anyway, just a few metal to metal contact connections between which may be corroded or loose.

I guess you can just unplug each of those things, one at a time, until you find one which stops the fuse blowing. You'll generate lots of fault codes and warning lights in the process. They'll probably all go away after a while of everything being reconnected.