Breezy_Pete

Sounds OK, yeah, as long as 1 isn't shorting to 2.

Again this diagram is related to mk1 fabia, but shows the items on the convenience (and drive) CAN bus. J386-389 are window motor modules, and none of those will be on your convenience CAN bus, I believe, as you will have the newer LINbus only window motors on a 2006 car. So that leaves J301 which is the HVAC module and J393 the Central Convenience Module (door locking etc.) I wonder if a broken wire in a door loom is making that last one stay awake when it should not be? Not sure why the radio doesn't appear on either bus, I guess it should be on Convenience CAN. Airbag ECU (J104) not though, that's on drive bus. I think the Instrument cluster J285 also has wires from the convenience CNA bus, not shown on this diagram.

Any modifications like aftermarket radio?

In that connector, are there more than just the two wires shown in my image?

Towards the top of image, near the narrower connector pin:

XP4 pin 2 is the main earth for the whole unit, so you will probably find that removing that connector removes all current use. There is a fault that I've seen a few times where a surface mount capacitor on the circuitboard inside 'nukes itself' and causes current drain. Have you had a look inside?

Ah OK, this is for Fabia mk1but will be very similar, I think:

This image may speed things up for you though:

I think you will find that the connectors are all keyed so that they will only fit in the correct positions.

I'm in Oxfordshire.

Is the car usable/on the road, or not? I'd be happy to have a look at repair if you were willing to post it to me.

I have a bag with 6 in which confused me until I realised it was originally 10 and I've only used 4. PM me if you'd like to make me an offer for em. Can't see me using them anytime soon. Pitch confirmed at 1.5mm

What's the problem with the original?

10.9 rated and captive grippy washer by the looks of this page, n90930902 VAG Болт (autocode.ru) Duff info sorry, pics on that page were of different part number. 😁 but it seems that different part number supersedes the one on Lee's page, so same observations apply.

Row ends are generally marked on loom connectors I think; this may help, probably mating face view of loom connectors. You will almost certainly find you need a fine piece of wire to poke into the relevant receptacles, as the pins tend to be mostly tiny, much smaller than meter probes.

erWin. You have to pay a small fee for an hour's access, but you can download stunning amounts in that time. Alternatively, there's a good selection (for Mk1 Fabia) here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/files/file/76-mk1-fabia-workshop-manuals/

80Nm for track rod to rack, according to Skoda in their Fabia info. Doubt Roomster is going to differ. Image mirrored compared to what you'll see, LHD shown/described.

I did suggest you inspect the wiring when this first came up about 3 threads of yours ago, but I didn't give you the full info then, so here you go now. G28 is the crank sensor, J248 is the engine ECU, F27 is a joint within the loom where the cable screen joins onto the earthy side of the wiring (pin 2 at sensor connector, pin 102 at ECU).

Copying the above in/out of notepad to remove the weird black background. Hi guys. Thanks to Admin for accepting my membership, but I have a problem. I am working on a polo mk3 6N 1.8 VIN:AAVZZZ9VZ1U006491 (in RSA the car is called the Polo Classic). Nit about engine code. If looks like the CITI GOLF engine though. Anyway, back to my problem... First things first, the car was driving well as per customer interview and what caused the car to stall was that the crank pulley came off while it was being driven on the road. The car was towed to a mechanic to fitted a new pulley and fanbelt. When all was done, the car did now want to start. It cranks but no start. The mechanics made the customer buy a new distributor, new petrol pump and new plugs... What I did: I confirmed that it has spark. I introduced some starter fluid and it started but stalled as soon as the starter fluid is used up. So we can rule out low compression and spark as being the problem as it starts. Two, the problem points to petrol supply... but the fuel pump is working well and I have confirmed that fuel reaches the injectors with no blockage... I did a visual inspection and I noticed that this one does not have a crank sensor nor a cam sensor. I then plugged in my diagnostic machine and I got the following codes : IMMO code "01176 - KEY NOT AUTHORISED" and another one, most likely related to the latter "P1570 ENGINE CONTROL MODULE DISABLED" another one for instrument cluster "00771 fuel level sensor open or short circuit to B+". The last one is "01050 glow plug monitoring malfunction in basic setting" (the car runs on petrol so I do not know whats up with that, could be a short. Another important piece of info in this saga is that the car is blowing fuse no. 28 for (speedometer sensor device, automatic engine locking device). Now the short will be traced on tomorrow but I think the cause of the problem is obvious but I want to be dead sure- I think this short is the cause of all problems. The scan tool can communicate with the ECU and immo modules and the instrument cluster with no issues. Sorry for the long post but I want to provide the most info. Attached are the screenshots, please help me with the immo codes as well as VW was using codes to indicate the status of certain components. CAN ANYONE INTERPRET THE IMMO CODE NUMBERS FOR ME AS I AM DESPERATRLY LOOKING FOR THE SERVICE MANUAL OF THE SAME CAR PLEASE????!!! : Your informed inputs are highly welcomed mates. It is a bit urgent.

I see even lower voltage than you, 1.2V with a needle poked into the back of the connector along with blue wire. Demonstrates that the current limiting resistors are doing their thing (and so dropping most of the voltage) and that the resistance of the field coil is low.

Access isn't too bad on my Polo, Will probably just stab the blue wire with a needle to get the connected/ignition-on voltage. Wish you were closer, I've probably got a spare alt you could have tried.

Yep. On these the connection to the battery light/LED is indirect, data transmitted to clocks module as opposed to a physical wire, but same effect.

Yep, I think it is. Theory (the origin and current limiting resistors in the onboard supply control unit) and practice seem to agree pretty well. 50mA ought to be enough to kickstart it; but isn't on your alternator for some reason. I can try the 'in series' (your 41mA) measurement or just check what volts I see at the blue wire with it connected later on, or tomorrow lunchtime, for further comparisons. When the alternator is charging, the voltage at the blue wire follows that of the B+ output terminal, I seem to remember.

You mean the terminal/pin the blue wire normally goes to?

Yeah, I get 53.5mA blue wire to earth with ignition-on battery voltage showing at a rather low 12.0V.