Breezy_Pete

Grab a spare dimmer thumbwheel bit from a scrappy. I think there's some electronics behind it that may have failed. Edit: that's after checking that it hasn't just got knocked round to a very dim setting!

Might be just worth checking that none of the pins at the a-pillar/ door connection got bent while removing and replacing the plugs, and that the new plug is fully seated after doing so. Not unheard of for weird problems to be just down to a plug that's not fully 'home'. If you can be without use of the car for a few days I'd be happy to try to rework your original loom bits if you were to pull it all out and post to me. Don't suppose you're anywhere near Oxfordshire? PM if interested.

Do you still have the old plug cut from the loom to fit the repair section?

3t1 part number would be for a LHD car, no?

Some rough ideas of prices here: LLLParts No idea why things get twice as expensive from 01/04/2010!

Loving the username by the way. 😁

Have you read the loom part number off its label? What is it?

I think something like this is what was being referred to: skoda door loom repair: Search Result | eBay

Seems most likely to me that you've got a couple of wires swapped compared to the original loom. Might be a case of measuring connectivity between main door connector and each of the destination connectors to try to find what's not right. I'll try to give you some pointers on this later.

One function of the clutch switch is to disengage cruise control if that is fitted and active. Not sure if there are other functions, but there probably are because it is still fitted on cars that left the factory without CC.

Genuine coolant sensor looks to be only around £30, but I'd be highly suspicious that the real issue is contamination of the coolant. Are you having to top up the coolant from time to time?

Sorry, no. No experience of these connectors at all. Some photos from various angles may help someone think of suggestions.

Shouldn't be tricky TBH. 🙂

This inventive fella worked out that if you drill a small hole in just the right place you can release the deadlocked lock with a Tx20 tool inserted through said hole and turned a little in the appropriate direction. Quite tempted to make a suitable template or two for the Fabia and drill some 'get out of jail' holes ahead of need. 9N3 doorlocks | UK Volkswagen Forum

Check again for presence of sensor in sump.

I think that's just normal behaviour. My Polo does the same. Brief warning light that goes out whether or not you plug in your seat belt, no audible warning.

It's not a relay it's just packaged like one. It's a CAN converter. Bit more to it inside than a relay, I'd guess.

Nope, not Torx at all. 12-points not 6, therefore XZN or spline. Can find the appropriate tool size if it's XZN by measuring or just by buying a set. triplesquaretable.pdf

@Dimitris Gavriilidis Who did the service, and is it possible that they accidentally, or deliberately set it to be on a variable service schedule instead of fixed interval as it probably was previously if there is no sensor?

Since the very first Fabia, coolant temperature has been conveyed to the instrument cluster from the engine ECU via CAN data. It seems to me very likely therefore that the fault is local to the cluster, as any CAN problem would surely affect many other functions. If your cluster can display oil temperature, it's probably best to just use that going forward, rather than try to fix the water temp gauge.

It doesn't sound to me like it's worth getting it booked in or checked out.

No, he was just mis-remembering seeing the battery light go out before engine fires up. He's saying they both do the same as what we are saying they should do.

The best way to find the correct part number will be to read it off your existing switch.

But may help to explain the slightly sub-optimal starting behaviours observed.

Take the car for a decent drive or connect a charger for a few hours if you feel the battery needs topping up.