Breezy_Pete

Which corner of the car is the fault?

I have a new favourite. Everyone should watch this.

Skoda Parts catalog - ETKA Online, Skoda EUROPA, original Catalog Skoda EUROPA (7zap.com) I'm not aware of any downsides to letting the MOT expire. You'd need to have a pre-booked one when you want to drive the car to get it done, but that's probably normal for most people anyway.

A quick glance at these two part numbers on ebay (minus the spaces) shows a few 'aftermarket equivalent' results, admittedly all from mainland europe. This one includes delivery price which suggests they can/will ship to you? Muffler Silencer/Muffler MSD for Skoda Octavia II 1.8 TSI | eBay

Might be an interesting conversation if you call them up and play along. "I thought I had 4 years warranty but I can't quite remember, would you check for me, please" If they come back with anything other than the truth, give em hell.

Anyone thinking about 'especially good' journeys with respect to fuel economy should try to consider wind direction and strength during that trip. As aero drag dominates fuel use at higher speeds, a favourable wind can be like walking on a travelator at an airport in terms of impact.

Good point. 🙂

Or a chunk departing and getting blown into someone behind's windscreen and possibly making them flinch and brake sharply etc.

No, as I said, it's more likely to be a problem with the engine thermostat. Flushes never really work on things that are blocked, because there's no flow to take the flushing agent there if it's blocked! Try the thermostat.

Pull off any loose bits you can reach.

It sounds like not enough coolant is circulating through the radiator. I would change the engine thermostat rather than the radiator, as this is cheaper and much easier.

A little further than 1-2 miles, maybe 3-4 to be sure that the thermostat should have opened.

Both radiator hoses get hot? You said hose, not hoses?

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ABS light probably from messing with its strip fuse, most other codes probably from disconnecting and reconnecting things. Clear all and see what, if anything returns. A/C codes probably recirculation flap problem (standard on most Fabias of this age, largely irrelevant unless stuck shut), and low refrigerant causing G65 one.

Yes. 2) is up to you and your wife.

Control unit is probably healthy, fan may also be. The other obvious possibility is that the coolant is not getting circulated to/through the radiator correctly. This could be happening because of a stuck-closed engine thermostat, or possibly a failed water-pump. If the coolant isn't getting to the radiator thermoswitch, the fan will not get triggered even if everything electrical is OK. To check water pump is working, with cold engine start the car with the coolant expansion tank lid off. Observe where the small hose at the top of the tank enters, and see if a trickle of water is coming from it. Get an assistant to rev the engine a bit, and see if that trickle gets stronger. To check thermostat, feel both radiator hoses near the radiator (carefully, avoiding burning yourself on anything nearby) when the engine is fully warmed up, both should be hot, indicating that coolant is going through. If one remains cool, thermostat may be your problem.

Those are fuses. Ignore and attach jump lead to battery positive post/clamp behind them all. If the leisure battery has a largish capacity I can't see it being damaged. Let us know how you get on, please.

Don't worry about the AC. I guess it has low or no refrigerant, which will mean that the HVAC control unit doesn't try to operate the compressor. This in turn will mean that the fan never gets triggered by rising refrigerant pressure. If it is working, it provides a quick and easy way to test fan function, but it doesn't so don't bother with it. I think your fan probably works OK now, but there might be a subtle fault like one or two of the carbon brushes (there are four in opposing pairs) being stuck in their slots. This can make the fan intermittent in starting up. I may have a spare fan (from a more recent car) that will suit your car, I'll research this later for you. Bit busy with work now though.

Oh, progress, excellent! I will think about next step tomorrow morning. Does the AC have known amount of refrigerant in (recent regas?).

I'm thinking of adding loom repair to my window motor repair service so I would do you a very cheap rate for a repair if you like. PM if interested.

Do you still have the GK loom?

Try swapping the unused one in position 6 (no wire attached) to position 3 if you want to be sure. Might be a 50A instead of 40A rated, but will prove the point. Don't replace non-faulty parts, waste of time and money. Not sure about your coolant level observations. One thing at a time.

Fuses all look fine (strip fuse no.3 is the high speed fan fuse on your car, it's rated at 40 Amps). When do you expect delivery of a replacement fan module? Disconnecting battery negative is not a bad idea when testing wire continuity from point to point.

This is how the wiring looks (except you must ignore "Smaller rad fan" V35 if you don't have it) T3i is the three-way, inline connector pair near the bottom radiator hose and thermoswitch.