Breezy_Pete

Thanks. How bizarre. Looks like that broke ages ago and the bolt head has just been sticking there with corrosion debris? I guess there are 3 other similar bolts to remove/inspect? The symmetrically opposite one on t'other side especially. Items 6, 4 here? LLLParts

Pics?

Pins 5 and 6 of the switch unit get connected to 0V/earth (pin 11) via the following resistances depending on each switch position: 1. Press switch down to the first detent - 150 Ohms to earth 2. Press switch fully down - short/0 Ohms to earth 3. Pull switch up to first detent - 1.8k Ohms to earth 4. Pull switch up fully - 530 Ohms to earth. These were measured on a new aftermarket switch unit, if I remember right, so may not be precisely those of a genuine switch, but I'd expect reasonable agreement. Pin numbering (just visible in your photo) includes the non-fitted pins.

Probably true at ~5 years old but they're writing instructions for general use whatever the age of car. With changes in coating materials away from those with hazardous materials (cadmium?), even relatively young genuine fasteners seem to corrode quite rapidly.

Lots of folk will chime in with "they're stretch bolts, you can tell because they quote torque plus angle" etc. but I think that's almost entirely not the real reasoning. In reality, it's about the loss of accuracy when tightening used, often corroded fasteners. Even with the superior accuracy of torque plus angle, the initial torque stage is heavily dominated by friction in terms of how much of the applied torque is converted to tension in the bolt. So corroded fasteners will get to this initial torque earlier than they should, meaning the final angle tigthening will not result in the designed pre-tension. Bolts that come loose are potentially dangerous; Skoda won't risk that originating in their workshops, so specify replacement anywhere where a dangerous outcome could occur if it happened.

Cabin fuse number 1 is the ignition on feed, but is shared with other things, so would probably be obvious from other faults if bad. Check for 12V at the connector pin when ignition is on, though. CAN wiring is the orange/brown, orange/black pair at pins 1 and 2 of the 4-way which has the ignition 12V feed coming in on a black/yellow wire at pin 4. Wiring conns look like this, be careful with connector latches if unplugging, it's likely they are brittle and easily broken:

Yes, or even a (different) fuse potentially. There's an ignition on 12V feed to the PAS module that might prevent comms if that feed isn't reliable, and the CAN wiring pair will definitely prevent scan tool access if not intact. I'll have a look at wiring info now. Does the car have front fog lights? I ask because on my Polo that doesn't, you can remove the nearside plastic blank that goes where a fog light would be, and it gives you direct access to the connectors of the PAS module. Not sure whether a mk2 Fabia has a similar convenient option.

No problem.

Mouse over Pab's username to the left of his posts, and a pop-up will appear under your mouse pointer, at the bottom left of this pop-up will be a button called 'Message'. Click on this.

Never, probably.

1j0973081: Search Result | eBay I think.

Try this. I remember being surprised how far I had to open a clutch slave bleed nipple before anything emerged. That was with a pressure bleeder, but not sure why it would make any difference.

I was proposing to get it shipped to me, then post it to you. PM if interested.

There's an NGK/NTK one on ebay for £58, not sure if that's a good price?

Could I buy something here, you pay for it, I post it to you? Seems like it would only be about 5GBP to send something like that.

There's presumably one wire going to each plug on the loom you've bought, so connect two of them (any two) to each of the existing connections?

Not on a Fabia Lee, maybe you're thinking Felicia? Single two-wire sensor on Fabia read by engine ECU, forwards info by CAN to the Instrument cluster which then displays stuff on the gauge with its 'customer reassurance filtering' factored in. Very bad sensor data might be visible if the gauge doesn't ever get to an indicated 90°C, for example (iff the thermostat is OK). I wish I could help the OP, but we're drowning in symptoms and theories and not much clarity about what has/hasn't been tried and ruled out, I feel.

View this on computer, not phone, and click on the sideways arrows button in the far right column of the row containing 6U0 906 265E. All equivalent part numbers will appear in a pop-up. control unit for air-con. - Felicia(FEL) [EUROPA 2000 year] (7zap.com)

If you regularly park nose-down on a slope, try parking the other way round so any liquid water can run out of the exhaust with gravity. Not everyone realises that this condensed water does not come out of the air, it comes from the combustion process. The two main products of combustion are carbon dioxide and water. It's in invisible steam form when it exits the engine, but depending on exhaust design, length, mass and temperature, and the rate of flow and temperature of the gases at the tailpipe, a lot can be deposited in the exhaust system during short runs and may not evaporate away if the exhaust doesn't get hot enough for enough time. The amount of water created is surprising. I did a calculation many years ago that suggested it's in the order of magnitude of a litre of water per litre of fuel burnt.

If you unplug the 28 way connector at the driver's side A-pillar, and stick a continuity tester between pins 4 (brown/yellow wire) and pin 16 (brown wire) of the door loom connector, with door open you should see short-circuit between these, trace both wires in towards their destinations within the door if you don't see this. The brown/yellow wire should go to both pin 8 of the 8 way connector at the lock module, and pin 2 of the 16-way connector at the window motor module. The brown wire should go to both pin 7 at the lock module and pin 7 of the 16-way at the window motor. Close scrutiny of the a-pillar wiring with knowledge of wire colours and origins within the 28-way will probably suffice, at a guess.

Parts catalogue should have the answers: LLLParts

If you have the very first one, 7AA, your car has an immobiliser but no alarm system. Any other letter and the system is as described here:

See if there's a PR code on the build sticker (usually in/near spare wheel well) that begins 7A and then has another letter after the A.

The battery is not the problem. It never has been.

Yep, keep an eye on it over the next few days, if there's a significant drain, you'll see the resting voltage gradually drop day by day. Do you plan to just leave the alarm fuse out? I don't think there will be any downside to that, but can guide you to alternatives if you need. Not sure if mk2 is as easy, but on a mk1 it's remarkably easy to take the whole front door(s) off to improve access to the wiring loom. Just unplug the connector(s), undo one screw that holds the checkstay to the door, two nuts that hold the hinges together and lift off. Only thing to be aware of is the weight of the door, so an assistant is advisable, especially when re-fitting door to avoid scratching paintwork. One person lifts/holds in approximate position, other one aligns both hinges from up close.