Breezy_Pete

The sound is made by a piezo tweeter on the instrument cluster board. You could cover the hole in the top of that with some duct tape which ought to quieten it; but the trouble is that it also makes the indicator ticking noise. Personally, as an old git, I could do with that being a bit louder.

No, the links I gave were from LLL parts, which gives very similar info, but isn't VIN filterable. Only the screenshot is partslink.

partlink24.com Very handy, but very not free.

Doesn't appear to be any mechanism for adjustment under that version.

Car built 16th May 2014. Relevant parts shown here (the non-greyed out ones): Both part numbers 2 and 3 have been superseded form what's shown there. Cover is now 04L109283C @ £35.90 plus VAT Seal is 04L145215C @ £13.50 + VAT A new cover (item 2, just cropped the number off accidentally) appears to come with the seal.

I've always thought/found that ETKA uses UK; DD.MM.YYYY, I think?

Odd, 'cos in that case it should be this diagram and part numbers that applies, but it looks totally different: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts If you share VIN or reg I can look up properly.

Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts item 3, and possibly 2 if it's distorted, I think. Do you know when the car was built? There's a different arrangement before 06/10/14 apparently, but the image for that one looks different to yours.

Your car was fitted with a 1.0kW Bosch starter, part number 02T911023R.

partslink24.com does it, but not for free. Various short-term subscriptions are available though; £13.20 for 1 day is currently the cheapest option for UK. The parts lists are the same as via the various free ETKA clones, but more up to date. Includes RRP. VIN entry causes the relevant parts for that VIN to appear in normal black font with all the other ones greyed out. Another possibly handy service I've just noticed that they offer is a full list (csv file) of all the parts for a given VIN. Currently offered for £15 for 5 VINs-worth. Appears under the heading "Additional fee-based services" on their subscriptions page and is called "Parts data Lists".

If the calipers have a wire retaining clip visible on the outward facing side you have 288mm discs, otherwise 256mm.

Indicator noise and light left on chime are both made by a piezo tweeter on the instrument cluster circuit board. The fact that you are also seeing some strange warning light behaviours makes me think that all is not well with your instrument cluster. I would remove and examine it for moisture presence, or corrosion, or any other obvious damage. Horn is via a (soldered in) relay in the onboard supply control unit (often called BCM in later models). Has the steering wheel been off for any reason recently? Might be an input problem rather than relay or the horn itself.

Manual gearbox or auto? With reg number or VIN I could look it up most easily.

Yes, it unclips at A-pillar end. There's a tab on the top that you push downwards to unlatch it, then it should come free. Youtube probably has a number of relevant demo videos. Common to several Skoda models from about 2007 onward, I believe.

There may be other broken wires going to the motor module, or possibly corrosion on connector pins at the motor, or deeper within the motor module. Wiring of door loom inside the bellows at A-pillar is easier to inspect than connector at window motor, so I'd suggest looking at that first.

Check whether the backlighting of the switches is working when the vehicle's sidelights are turned on. The backlight illumination relies on the same earth wire as the switches do, so a lack of backlighting typically means that this eath connection is not good. Often on this platform, a broken wire in the door hinge area turns out to be responsible.

Easy to see which door carrier seals are leaking. After rainfall, or simulated rainfall, just open each door in turn and look at the rubber seal along the bottom of the door opening. Any that have little puddles sitting on the horizontal part of the seal will have leaking carrier seals. There may also be witness marks on the paintwork of the door, just below the door card. This is a right rear doorway on our car, with some water placed where it will appear if there are carrier leaks:

I doubt the exact sealant types are critical, I've no idea how the various Skoda ones differ. There's even a third one for the rocker cover, different from both the sump one and the chain cover one. Other things that you may or may not have acquired are a way to support the engine when the driver's side mount is off, and the sump is too. (Beam across wings typically)? Locking tools set for cams and crank? Fitting the crank one in place of the crank sensor is a mission in itself, access being awful, and it may be corroded in if the alloy of the block has got a bit furry over the years. Counterhold tool for when you do up the crank pulley bolt. The torque plus angle is very hard to achieve on the driveway with the new spec bolt, would have to check for your specific engine code, but the one I did was 150Nm PLUS 180°/ half turn. That's hard to do even with 3 foot+ long breaker bar on the socket, similar length counterhold tool keeping the pulley from coming round with the bolt, and one strong person on each, to be honest. The other thing to consider is that there may well also be valve damage, in which case you might go through all the pain of changing out the chain kit, only to be no better off than you were. Consider endoscopic, borescope-type inspection via the spark plug holes to maybe spot this ahead of starting work. Sorry to be such a downer about this, but having done the job, I know it's not something an amateur is going to enjoy, or perhaps even be able to complete. There is a full time mechanic @hutchysrs50 who used to post regularly on here, who did one on his own mk1 Fabia several years back, and I remember him describing the job as a right pain in the backside, or words to that effect.

Pretty sure removing the OSF wheel and wheel arch liner will be essential for sufficient access and visibility.

It will be soldered onto the circuit board of the BCM, I expect.

Surely the MAF sensor is far enough upstream (in terms of airflow) from the turbo to be beyond oil reach? Isn't the MAF just after the air filter? Do you know what your engine code is, by any chance? MAP sensor would make more sense, I think?

Alarm horn on your car appears to be fused from Fuse 54, 15 Amp value. It has only LIN 1-wire comms to the BCM, not CAN connected. See if there is evidence of a drain via that fuse? (Not mentioned in your original post, so I guess not?) Would be good to get a VCDS scan of the BCM (module 09) to see if it is registering a fault with the alarm horn (probably). That may, I suppose be causing things to not shut down fully. Not sure.

That VIN for a Denso system gives matrix part number 5WA 819 031. Skoda only want £326 plus VAT retail. 😆

Or just bite the bullet and take it out far enough to find the part number sticker on it?