skomaz

The system has two flaps in it operated by motors. One flap is in the foot well and is open for recirc mode but closed for fresh air mose. The other flap is in the plenum chamber scutlle area below and in front of the windcreen (bonnet side where the wiper spindles are). This second flap is closed for recirc and open for fresh air mode. Hence from your description the flap in the plenum / scuttle is either jammed or the motor is kaput. I'd start by getting access to the plenum / scuttle area by removing the trim around the wiper spindles and seeing whether the flap there canbefreed off and whether it moves when recirc is engaged

That's a result!

Sounds like someone criticising a 150bhp Kodiaq hasn't actually driven one...

Maybe yes - interestingly though I've also spotted a Kia EV6 round and about (same platform etc.) and as a design it's far better resolved and I think will better stand up to the test of time. I certainly know where my money would be going out of the two if I was in the market.

Have seen one of these quite regularly recently and have to say I'm a bit less impressed in the flesh - it's a bit meh... and I think could date very quickly (almost already?)

I'd love them to pay attention @J.R. and, from the info above, many are - they are just trying to find a way of stopping the relentless messaging that the system is unavailable when the sensor is covered in snow 😉 - which would likely require the car to know it was snowing (or to have some way of turning the bloody warnings off!)

So just how do you propose the car recognises it's snowing?

Oooh... Breadvan civic! My dad had a 1.6 auto... Think it was an Azure special edition or something and later on I had a spaceship diesel sport

We had two in the family - my sister had an early one with the sunken headlights, a 1.3 GL in red with a tartan red interior and I had a later 1.3L with flush headlights that was mushy pea green with an interior that was a similar shade... to which i added some pinstripes, speakers and a new stereo. It was fine for tooling back and forth to work in Cheltenham from home in Sheffield but got a bit 'floaty' on the A38 at close to 70mph so the natural cruising speed was 60- 65. I'll try and dig out some photos at some point!

I did something similar trying to fit foglights on a Chevette... got them wired in via a separate switch and decided to try them only to be greeted with a smell of burning and smoke from under the bonnet as the wiring overheated! I learnt my lesson though and didn't make the same mistake when fitting big driving lights to my Nova and foglights to my Mitsubishi Colt! In fact I've still got the driving lights and the bumper over-riders they fitted on off the Nova in the garage - I seem to recall they were rebranded Hella lights and were great on a country road, the only trouble being that after you switched them off you were temporarily blind until your eyes readjusted to the low power of the standard dipped beams.

That's the one I had earmarked for our Octavia... Direct Replacement for original part #: 1K0521307A OE Part # for reference purposes only SKODA OCTAVIA Combi (1Z5) 1.6 TDI 4x4 - Engine: CAYC 1.8 TSI 4x4 - Engine: CDAB 1.8 TSI 4x4 - Engine: CDAA 1.9 TDI 4x4 - Engine: BKC, BLS, BXE 2.0 FSI 4x4 - Engine: BLX, BVX 2.0 TDI 16V 4x4 - Engine: CFHC 2.0 TDI 4x4 - Engine: CFHF 2.0 TDI 4x4 - Engine: BMM SKODA SUPERB (3T4) 1.8 TSI 4x4 - Engine: CDAB 1.8 TSI 4x4 - Engine: CDAA 2.0 TDI 16V 4x4 - Engine: CFFB 2.0 TDI 4x4 - Engine: CBBB, CFGB 3.6 FSI 4x4 - Engine: 3597 ccm 3.6 V6 4x4 - Engine: CDVA SKODA SUPERB Estate (3T5) 1.8 TSI 4x4 - Engine: CDAA 1.8 TSI 4x4 - Engine: CDAB 2.0 TDI 16V 4x4 - Engine: CFFB 2.0 TDI 4x4 - Engine: CBBB, CFGB 3.6 V6 4x4 - Engine: CDVA SKODA YETI (5L) 1.8 TSI 4x4 - Engine: CDAB 1.8 TSI 4x4 - Engine: CDAA 2.0 TDI 4x4 - Engine: CFHF 2.0 TDI 4x4 - Engine: CEGA, CFJA 2.0 TDI 4x4 - Engine: CBDB, CFHC, CLCB

Blimey - a Fiat Strada - I'd completely forgotten about those!! I always thought they were really distinctive at the time!

You'll possibly have difficulty finding a part number for the unit only as I think Skoda only do it as a complete propshaft and doughnut coupling (or at least that's what I found for our Octavia when I was looking). Try searching for an Audi A3 part instead and I'll try and check what I found later today. From memory the part is about £100...

From memory those sealed beam units were Lucas ones and lived up to the Prince of Darkness jokes!

he he - Austin 1100s and 1300s - we had two in the family - a dark blue 1100 and, following that, a dark green 1300 that was eventually replaced by an Allegro, all of which were my mum's. They were all good cars and reliable for their time - but boy did they rust - i remember spending hours with my dad with filler and aluminium mesh fixing holes in them - in fact we nearly set the green one on fire one cold day as my dad, in his wisdom, decided to use a candle underneath the car to try and help get some filler to cure... which set the underseal on fire!

Hi Matt... Just done this for my daughter who's 17 and learning and did her as a named driver on the swift. Went with the post office as it was cheaper than the renewal offered by others without her. For a laugh I asked about putting her on the Kodiaq with GA... £135 for me and SWMBO only... £1350 with my daughter added!!!

Didn't replace the turbo but did do some work a long time ago that resulted in the boost pipe not clicking back in fully - it popped off after about a mile and the car felt like it had about 25bhp! When I replaced the boost pipe on it some years later I made sure all the clips and clamps were damn tight!

For many people it's also because specs may not suit and options kits sometimes combine many elements, all of which may not be wanted... So some people buy a car then tailor it to suit themselves.

If the cambelt required the removal of intake and boost pipes I'd be checking those are all in place, intact and tight first

For me it certainly wouldn't be anything new from the likes of the usual sports car makers... I reckon I'd go old-school with a garage of cars - so maybe something like an older G-wagon / Jimny for winter, maybe an AMG E-Class estate for the family and then something small and light for hooning- so it's got to be a Caterham?? I do fancy a massive old American V8 barge though as well, or maybe a TVR with a V8 (despite the lack or reliability - it's the sound I like!)

It's not a show car but is a 1995 MK1 in a rare colour and spec that I've had since 1998, so I'm well aware of how it can be used in winter. Its in great condition and used to be my daily driver but given I now generally run three or four cars consecutively I tend to make much more use of the others over winter. It therefore makes sense to stick it in the garage and save 6 months if tax. As for the hood it's not been up in years, regardless of weather.

that's not a bottom end issue if it is like the video. My MX5 has had exactly the same issue historically after being laid up over winter but a decent flush and fresh oil usually sorts it. The process is usually drain a bit, add the flushing chemical, run the engine, drain and refill with fresh decent oil.

If it is a sticking lifter, which it could be if it's been stood for a while then an engine oil flush to remove any deposits and fresh oil might sort it

He he - nice! I had an A-reg silver 1.2GL Nova but according to the DVLA it died in 1998 (they were only available in that trim level for a year or so). I spent a whole summer one year sorting all the rust out on it and smartening it up then a few months later traded it for new (H-reg) Mitsubishi Colt 1.5GLX It was originally my sister's car but she sold it to me when she got a new 1.3SR in pale metallic blue... at which point I sold on my pea green Chevette 1.3L

Off topic but I once took a wee sample in to the Doc's for testing when I had kidney stones - the receptionist thought it was a blood sample...