1.8TSI and 2.0TSI engine failures

[Blueglue]

48 minutes ago, MrSquare said:

2011 vrs

CCZA with 60k on it, have a bumper to bumper 6 month warranty on it.

Skoda UK say no TSB and local Skoda dealer didn't want to quote a tensioner or price as for fitting-which is odd.

 

Do I drive on and just before end of warranty get it changed and if it blows in warranty so be it?

 

Confused dot com my mate took a photo below which I think is original 2011 unmodified part?

 

Yes that the old tensioner that will eventually grenade the engine. Only the US and a couple of other countries have some sort of recall, but you won't get Skoda to acknowledge it exists even if you type it in Google Infront of them. You just have to suck it up and pay for the K revision tensioner and costs £700-£1100 depending on where you go. Or about £300-£400 in Genuine parts if you do it yourself.

You just have the pcv, rear main seal, intake manifold, balance shafts to add to the list as well 🤣. Bought my 2009 car in 2018 for 4k and have probably spent 5k on the engine 🤦

 

Edited 20 March, 2022 by Blueglue
Spelling

[MrSquare]

On 20/03/2022 at 00:51, Blueglue said:

Yes that the old tensioner that will eventually grenade the engine. Only the US and a couple of other countries have some sort of recall, but you won't get Skoda to acknowledge it exists even if you type it in Google Infront of them. You just have to suck it up and pay for the K revision tensioner and costs £700-£1100 depending on where you go. Or about £300-£400 in Genuine parts if you do it yourself.

You just have the pcv, rear main seal, intake manifold, balance shafts to add to the list as well 🤣. Bought my 2009 car in 2018 for 4k and have probably spent 5k on the engine 🤦

 

Happy thoughts😕 maybe I need a new thread?😕

So hopefully it will implode within the warranty period🤠- my luck a day after it ends.

So I'm more confused as this goes on 

Timing chain and tensioner- revised one.

Cam bridge see if the filter metal and still there- Spanish tsb says bin the filter gauze.🤔

Do I need lower timing case- seems to be made of foil from posts I read.

 

Seals, gaskets for the adventure.

 

Pcv valve- white part the modified one I believe- before it blows main seal 

 

Oil catch can- does this cure inlet carbon build up and pass an MOT with it on?

 

Water pump some say is consumable time limited 

 

Oil consumption? Believe 5w40 oil and regular interval oil better- if so which?

 

Beginning to think a tensioner least of the issues- are any other models or brands any better? Or modern progress 🤔

Edited 22 March, 2022 by MrSquare

[Rileysport]

Timing chain and tensioner- revised one.

Cam bridge see if the filter metal and still there- Spanish tsb says bin the filter gauze.🤔      -      Check see if the gauze is present and un damaged, if not it will hopefully be resting just inside the bridge itself, if not further investigation will be needed to find it!

 

Do I need lower timing case- seems to be made of foil from posts I read.                                  -      I'd seriously recommend it, i've personally seen what happens when it gets reused!

 

Seals, gaskets for the adventure.     -      Use only genuine stuff, also i'd recommend grey elring dirko gasket sealant for the lower timimng cover. Worth noting that all lower timing case bolts are supposed to be replaced as are the engine mounting bolts and the crank bolt. I'd also recommend inspecting the lower sprocket for wear/damage.

 

Pcv valve- white part the modified one I believe- before it blows main seal          -       There's a defined path depending on what was fitted from the factory, the white one has a stronger spring in the diaphragm part amongst other changes.

 

Oil catch can- does this cure inlet carbon build up and pass an MOT with it on?          -        I fitted one and used more oil with it fitted, car performs better without it on. There's conflicting views as to whether it sorts carbon buildup or not.

 

Water pump some say is consumable time limited          -        Mine is original at 101k miles, unless the inlet manifold is off for other jobs i'd be tempted to leave it alone if there's no issues.

 

Oil consumption? Believe 5w40 oil and regular interval oil better- if so which         -        Use millers cfs nanodrive +, i'm currently using liquimoly molygen and so far so goodon the consumption front but ran millers before as thats what is recommended. I also use a liquimoly engine flush every other oil change and my consumotion has reduced dramatically (from 1l every 1500 miles to 1l between 7k mile oil changes). Also use only genuine or bosch oil filters,

 

 

Other consideratons would be the crank holding tool kit and spacer to ensure everything stays in time whilst in bits, the lower timing sprocket is effectively floating once you take the bolt out!

[Ootohere]

It matters not who produces the 5w 40 FS to VW 502 00 for retailers, be that for Tesco, ASDA, or any discount supermarkets.

As long as it is not Long Life oil it will be just fine in a TSI getting fixed service interval oil and filter changes.   

(Long Life Oils and Euro 5 VW TSI's might mean short life engines. MIGHT!.)

Edited 23 March, 2022 by roottoot

[MrSquare]

is this retail customers NORA? as it would seem recalls are excluded from being told

https://programnora.pl/

 

What is NORA ^® ?

NORA® is the official partner program of the Volkswagen Group, which has been operating in Europe since 2005.

The program is aimed at independent garages that are not directly related to the concern's brands and allows them to purchase Genuine Volkswagen parts on preferential terms.

Edited 25 March, 2022 by MrSquare

[MrSquare]

On 31/10/2013 at 11:25, NIGELD said:

I hope that the more information that is published on this and other sites the more likely it is that VAG/SUK will deal more honorably with victims.

 

Over the last decade it would appear that Skoda acquired customers from other brands and managed to retain them.  Most owners of vrs seem to be very loyal customers, I have recommended the car to many people over the last 12 years.  

 

It seems very shortsighted for Skoda not to 'fall over backwards' to ensure that victims of this fault continue to promote the vehicle.

 

Wouldn't this be sensible? ..........

 

Skoda - "it sounds like a known tensioner failure.  We will have your local dealer collect the vehicle and, if it is the tensioner that failed, we will offer a courtesy car and offer to fit a new engine at no cost to you and give you a £200 voucher valid for 5 years towards the purchase of a new model.  If you do not wish to take advantage of this we will buy the car off. you for market value plus £400"

 

Additional cost to SUK/VAG would probably be minimal, their reputation in the marketplace would increase and public relations effect would be enormous, turning a weakness into a strength.

 

But then..........what do I know?

 

 

 

La La land

 

Put me down for excessive oil consumption 1.5ltr in 700 miles, right grade oil valvoline brand with vw spec oil turned black and grey metallic flecs in it 2011 63,000 full service history.

Dealer refused to look at it stating warranty company, warranty company investigate and won't cover engine as £500 limit when it covers engines etc. 

 

Rejected car and dealer angry as took it to a halfords mot centre as warranty company paid for inspection- completely confusing situation on a car I wanted and if halfords do MOT'ss then must be reasonable at spotting leaks🤔 and found other things. 

 

Beautiful car I loved, but could not take an engine failure and reconditioned engine cost, on just purchased car, as brother advised that from research not due lack of use sticky part issue-but reconditioned engine time. 

 

Don't think dealer knew, my brother said Czza engine from barcode research. 

 

Real shame as I was prepared to spend money as needed on service or keeping on top of things etc

 

 

 

[daoctabod]

Just thought I would add my experience to this as a warning to others.  I had a timing chain failure at approx. 70k which bent valve and bent cam etc... I had modified a fair bit up to stage 2 so there was no way Skoda would have help (I don't think).  I was in a panic at the time and didn't know it was the timing chain that had gone so took it to one garage who just took 2 weeks to tell me they couldn't get any oil pressure and they couldn't help any further.  I then took to a family recommended garage who spent a little time figuring out it was the timing chain and then gave up.  They suggested I find a specialist to do the rebuild.  I found a company in Kent that said if I could send the block they would refurb for £1800 and the website looked good, reviews were mixed but the good reviews were good.  The garage took the block out and it was sent down to Kent.  After a substantial extra amount for cylinders, camshaft and other bits it came back shiny and beautiful and the garage put it back in.  I picked up the car and thought it sounded a little louder than before and had a louder than wanted tick on idle.  The car drove fine so I just put it down to needing running in.  1000 miles in the the car starts chattering on cold start and the tick is still there, I take it back to the local garage.  They say they think its oil pressure related and I need to get rebuilder to look.  I get RAC to tow it down to Kent after a long argument that they only want to see the block and not the car.  They take another £500 for replacement of sensors and gaskets they say should have been replaced when local garage re-installed and we start the blame game.  Car is back but still having starting issues now where it sometime won't start for around 3-4 tries and still loud ticking.  I give up at this point and decide to just put up with it.  Eventually the comments from others about the noise, my own annoyance and the starting issues make me argue with the Kent company and they agree to look again.  I take the car down and they blame the oil pressure issue on the local garage for not installing a valve correctly when they installed everything and the oil pressure has caused an issue in the head.  They agree to look further and then advise the inlet and exhaust cam are toast due to oil pressure issue and agree for £750 to replace parts and go free on labour, I stupidly agree as I've just spent too much to this point to turn back.  They claim to have done the work and the car no longer has the starting issues or ticking noise.  I'm semi ok with things but I notice little issues like the oil is already a little dark, the filter looks dusty and today my turbo seems to stop working!  It feels like I've been a mug and for others I would just say get your timing chain changed asap.  If you do get the dreaded failure and go for the rebuild do your research and be prepared to pay the little more for a good result.  If I was doing this all again I would have gone to the performance garage who quoted a fair bit more as I've ended up clocking up more now anyway.

[Pacific_Blue]

Add me to the list of timing chain/tensioner victims - 2011 Superb 1.8 TSI at 77k miles.

 

When we bought it last year the piston rings were shot but the garage had these, the pistons, conrod, gaskets and sundries all replaced and put a 6-month warranty on. I hadn't realised that the chain could be an issue, otherwise I'd have asked them to change it then.

 

Ten trouble-free months later, and with a fresh service and MOT, we set off for Calais and a 570-drive onwards through France. At the 540-mile mark there was a horrible rattle. No hole in the block, all fluids still in it and it starts and runs, but chain gone. Car arrived back home last night on a trailer.

 

We've really got no option but to get it repaired, as there's no value in the car as it is and there's nothing else that would fit the bill reliable for £3-4k. My question is, whether trying to source a later engine and paying a bit more for it is sensible?

[MrSquare]

35 minutes ago, Pacific_Blue said:

Add me to the list of timing chain/tensioner victims - 2011 Superb 1.8 TSI at 77k miles.

 

When we bought it last year the piston rings were shot but the garage had these, the pistons, conrod, gaskets and sundries all replaced and put a 6-month warranty on. I hadn't realised that the chain could be an issue, otherwise I'd have asked them to change it then.

 

Ten trouble-free months later, and with a fresh service and MOT, we set off for Calais and a 570-drive onwards through France. At the 540-mile mark there was a horrible rattle. No hole in the block, all fluids still in it and it starts and runs, but chain gone. Car arrived back home last night on a trailer.

 

We've really got no option but to get it repaired, as there's no value in the car as it is and there's nothing else that would fit the bill reliable for £3-4k. My question is, whether trying to source a later engine and paying a bit more for it is sensible?

 

Sales of goods act upto 6 years

Or

Get it repaired as cheaply as possible and Run, I really wanted another as they are beautiful cars and considered a diesel, more money and even lot newer-my arse twitched and I bought an Asian car. 

The new car is Boring, the parts are cheap-but no fear of grenade & unexpectedly wallet raped. 

[Skoda789]

Hi @Pacific_Blue . Sorry to hear that the repairs have not worked out. On the other thread you explained the dealer would also be replacing the chain and tensioner. Did that not happen? 

[Pacific_Blue]

55 minutes ago, Skoda789 said:

Hi @Pacific_Blue . Sorry to hear that the repairs have not worked out. On the other thread you explained the dealer would also be replacing the chain and tensioner. Did that not happen? 

 

You're right... sorry I'm slightly at sixes and sevens trying to work out a) what's happened and b) how to pay for everything. Here's what was done when we bought the car last year.

 

 

[Pacific_Blue]

1 hour ago, MrSquare said:

 

Sales of goods act upto 6 years

Or

Get it repaired as cheaply as possible and Run, I really wanted another as they are beautiful cars and considered a diesel, more money and even lot newer-my arse twitched and I bought an Asian car. 

The new car is Boring, the parts are cheap-but no fear of grenade & unexpectedly wallet raped. 

 

Hadn't thought of the Sales of Goods act, but that's a worthwhile avenue, thank you.

 

If the chain was replaced 11 months ago and the car has done 10,000 miles, been serviced and MOT'd on time... could be a route.

[Skoda789]

I’d definitely go back to the dealer again. The repair shouldn’t fail so soon after it was carried out. 

 

Did the repair come with a six month or twelve month warranty?   (Other thread mentions 12)

 

 

[Pacific_Blue]

54 minutes ago, Skoda789 said:

I’d definitely go back to the dealer again. The repair shouldn’t fail so soon after it was carried out. 

 

Did the repair come with a six month or twelve month warranty?   (Other thread mentions 12)

 

 

Standard 12-month warranty with an additional 6-month warranty on the work done.

 

Consulting solicitor now on that

[Skoda789]

Looks like you’re still within the original 12 month warranty period, which is good news. I hope the solicitor can help with an approach to sort this out for you.  Keep posting updates and let us know how you’re getting on. 
 

 

[streetfighter73]

If the garage is a member of the Motor Ombudsman you can also go that route as that is what l did .

[Ootohere]

HALT!

 

Before you go to lots of effort, first you speak to the Owner of the workshop that did the work for you.  

Maybe the manager first but ultimately the 'Owner' .  The person the buck stops with. 

 

It is them that have to pay attention to their companies reputation, pay to be in the Trade Association, pay the Insurance and any legal fees incurred by their company.

They might be dead helpful. 

  Be sure to keep a record of all communications, maybe even record stuff or have a witness. 

Edited 12 August, 2022 by roottoot

[Pacific_Blue]

2 hours ago, Skoda789 said:

Looks like you’re still within the original 12 month warranty period, which is good news. I hope the solicitor can help with an approach to sort this out for you.  Keep posting updates and let us know how you’re getting on. 

Unfortunately AA warranties from used car dealers aren't really worth the paper they're written on. The warranty states that it is valid for up to 90 days when driving in Europe, for example, that it will pay for a hire car and any travel arrangements and recovery. So we called the warranty provider (not the AA), who told us that we have the 'light' warranty which entitled us to:

 

1) Recovery to the nearest approved garage (although they have none in France, so would accept any that we deemed fit)

2) Payment of up to £50 per day towards a hire car upon validation of the claim

3) Payment to repair the original part that broke up to a value of £1,000 upon validation of the claim but not a penny for any subsequent damage

4) Contribution of up to £150 towards travel costs upon validation of the claim

 

The garage in France did a diagnosis (€250) and a costing (€9,800 for a new engine from Volkswagen and €1800 to fit it). This took 2 weeks. Because... France.

 

Car hire in France during the first week of the French and British holidays is a bit of a challenge, all the more so when you need to pick up locally and drop at the port. Nobody would accept a booking of less than 7 days and the best deal I got for a car that could transport family and self and camping equipment was €1500. The car was a Peugeot 2008, which is big on the outside but supermini on the inside, meaning that I had to drive the family and bags to the campsite, then drive 2hrs back up to the garage to retrieve the camping equipment and 2hrs back again. I then had to take the camping equipment back to the garage to put it back in our car, then go back to the campsite to collect family and bags before we could leave the country.

 

We had originally booked a return crossing Dover-Calais but with two children, 10 bags and two bicycles, my in-laws said they would pick us up if we could get to Portsmouth, so I booked us on as foot passengers at Caen. Then we had the hard decision on what to do with the car... leave it in France and write it off, pay to have it brought back and write it off or pay to have it brought back and pay to repair it.

 

As things stand, the warranty has paid for us to be recovered from the roadside to the garage in France. We've paid for a diagnostic, a hire car, an unused return journey Calais-Dover, a return journey Caen-Portsmouth and the repatriation of the Skoda. The claim is not yet validated by the warranty company, so we may get up to £500 back towards the hire car and ferry, and they may pay for the replacement of the timing chain, but that's as much as they will ever commit to.

 

All told, we're in for just over £4,000 before any work is done on the car, which then limits our options on what to do as we're now out of funds. All we can really do now is pay for another diagnostic by an AA-approved garage to see if the timing chain was faulty - or even if the garage which did the work last year did exactly what it said on the invoice. Once we have that information then twe will have to see what our options are legally, because the warranty company will do nothing.

 

2 hours ago, streetfighter73 said:

If the garage is a member of the Motor Ombudsman you can also go that route as that is what l did .

The work wasn't done for us per se, it was done for the dealer. When the piston rings went on the way home from the dealership, we returned the car as unfit for purpose. The dealer then got the work done, presented us with the bill and gave us a 6-month warranty for the work done. That seemed fair and as you can see it looked comprehensive! The car has been great and gave us 10.5 months of trouble-free motoring but was clearly a timebomb.

 

1 hour ago, roottoot said:

HALT!

 

Before you go to lots of effort, first you speak to the Owner of the workshop that did the work for you.  

Maybe the manager first but ultimately the 'Owner' .  The person the buck stops with. 

 

It is them that have to pay attention to their companies reputation, pay to be in the Trade Association, pay the Insurance and any legal fees incurred by their company.

They might be dead helpful. 

  Be sure to keep a record of all communications, maybe even record stuff or have a witness. 

We'll get the engine inspected first by an AA-approved workshop to confirm which parts were faulty and whether all the parts listed on the original job sheet/invoice to the dealer were even done. Only after that will we (or our solicitors) then approach either party (or both). It may also be worth going to Skoda UK given that the car has suffered two known faults (piston rings in 2021 and now the timing chain) which according to this 75-page thread (and many others) it denies exist with the TSI engine.

[Ootohere]

They did accept in other world regions that there were fundamental design, manufacturing or material faults did they not?

Just not in Europe where they can deny anything and they go unchallenged. 

[Skoda789]

Hi @Pacific_Blue  just wondering if you managed to get any where with sorting out your superb? 

[2stroke]

Wife has a  ( 2012 ) Octavia-II with EA888-II TSI  engine.
The car works incredibly well, but drinks a lot of oil.
( I only put 100% fully synthetic oil 5w-40 in it. )
Was thinking of changing the PCV-valve to see if it gets a little better,
but it comes in 2 different versions that are apparently not interchangeable.
The latest version of the PCV-valve are apparently available in 2 different models from VAG-dealers with 2 different part numbers.
Even my SKODA dealer didn't know the difference and which one I should have

🤔 Anyone here know what physically separates the 2 different PCV-valves for this engine ? 🤔

🤔 Anything else that is good to replace at the same time as replacing the PCV-valve ? 🤔

#  06H 103 495 AH
#  06H 103 495 AJ

Edited 12 July, 2023 by 2stroke

[Warrior193]

Hello 2stroke, I can't answer your question directly but my understanding is that the same part number, with only a change to the suffix letter indicates a revised part - so either part should fit.

[2stroke]

1 hour ago, Warrior193 said:

 I can't answer your question directly but my understanding is that the same part number,
with only a change to the suffix letter indicates a revised part - so either part should fit.

According to my SKODA dealer, it is not as simple as a number suffix.
Both part numbers are updated and valid.
So something is different on the inside of the PCV-valve, but what and why ?  🤔

[Warrior193]

I hope that someone will come along with the information you need - but it would not be a shock to discover that not everything a main dealer says is true🙊  

[TheClient]

On 12/07/2023 at 01:07, 2stroke said:

Wife has a  ( 2012 ) Octavia-II with EA888-II TSI  engine.
The car works incredibly well, but drinks a lot of oil.
( I only put 100% fully synthetic oil 5w-40 in it. )
Was thinking of changing the PCV-valve to see if it gets a little better,
but it comes in 2 different versions that are apparently not interchangeable.
The latest version of the PCV-valve are apparently available in 2 different models from VAG-dealers with 2 different part numbers.
Even my SKODA dealer didn't know the difference and which one I should have

🤔 Anyone here know what physically separates the 2 different PCV-valves for this engine ? 🤔

🤔 Anything else that is good to replace at the same time as replacing the PCV-valve ? 🤔

#  06H 103 495 AH
#  06H 103 495 AJ

Yes. All true. Very much not understood by VW parts departments, TPS, mechanics but there were 2 different designs and they were applicable to different manufacturing periods. I'll have to look up my notes for @rayx and get back to you what you need. But I remember enough to know / recall that AJ and AH are on different streams i.e. not appropriate for vehicles that build across the specified date... But, again, if you've got serious oil usage it is likely to be oil scraper rings design fouling,  that has caused bore scoring... a very very common problem in gen 2 especially 1.8tsi