The 280PS Thread

[JR RS]

On 08/02/2022 at 07:37, xman said:

Have you considered replacing the front with standard or uprated non DCC shocks? I personally don't think DCC makes a significant or even a noticeable difference most of the time, and mine stay in Normal 90% of the time. Comfort too wafty and crash on bad roads, Sport too harsh and annoying.

 

Wouldn't buy another car with DCC as they do seem to fail often if Briskoda is any indication. Ridiculous price for minimum benefit.

 

U say DCC makes no noticeable difference, yet u notice Comfort is too wafty, Sport too harsh, hence u keep it in Normal.......

 

[Legion]

Non-adjustable will never keep everyone happy.

 

I think it needs a race setting.

[xman]

2 hours ago, JR RS said:

 

U say DCC makes no noticeable difference, yet u notice Comfort is too wafty, Sport too harsh, hence u keep it in Normal.......

 

 

It makes no noticeable difference most of the time. 

On bad roads, the comfort/sport settings do not make things better but rather worse in my opinion 😝

[numskull]

I like DCC. Didn’t pay for it as such as it’s an L&K so it was standard and I bought the car from a Briskodian so he’d taken 45% depreciation.
I especially like Comfort on motorways and sport on quick B roads, but like you, Normal is exactly that. 

[ChrisCh]

The two DCC settings make a huge difference - the suspension is much better controlled in Sport rather than even Normal.

[Colin170CR]

I run my DCC in Sport mode as a default setting & change to Normal occasionally when I have some passengers who may prefer a softer ride. Just have to remember not to hit the speed bumps too fast in Sport mode though as you can literally come off the seat if you are not careful. I have never used the comfort setting as it feels way too soft for me.   

[AlVal]

Started hearing a little whistle from the turbo today, shortly followed by some very big clouds of white smoke behind me...

[fraz8888]

sorry to hear that - how many miles does yours have?

 

out of warranty?

 

hope not too painful in the wallet for you

[MarkyTDI]

On 14/03/2022 at 06:22, AlVal said:

Started hearing a little whistle from the turbo today, shortly followed by some very big clouds of white smoke behind me...

I worry about this too....50k miles on mine. 

If it goes oneday I'll be going for a Littco I think.

 

https://www.littco.co.uk/l380-turbo-74-p.asp

[AlVal]

On 15/03/2022 at 18:56, fraz8888 said:

sorry to hear that - how many miles does yours have?

 

out of warranty?

 

hope not too painful in the wallet for you

Would have been within skoda Official used car warranty I'm sure if I hadn't remapped it, but I've triggered the TD1 flag of course, so they'll know. 60k miles or so on it.

[fraz8888]

hope you find a good turbo supplier.  I have used turbo technics a long time ago for an audi A4 turbo, swapped myself, but would not have the time anymore to do such work.

 

good luck

[Bigeater]

On 14/03/2022 at 11:22, AlVal said:

Started hearing a little whistle from the turbo today, shortly followed by some very big clouds of white smoke behind me...

Oh No. so who are you going to trust to map your new turbo, and which turbo will it be?

[AlVal]

On 22/03/2022 at 20:46, Bigeater said:

Oh No. so who are you going to trust to map your new turbo, and which turbo will it be?

 

On 22/03/2022 at 20:46, Bigeater said:

Oh No. so who are you going to trust to map your new turbo, and which turbo will it be?

Rob at www.fastlineturbo.co.uk is local to me at Northampton, and Google reviews seemed good, so I had him supply his recommendation of a strengthened IS38(not sure of the technicalities of exactly how its strengthened but he says it should be a lot more reliable and far better equipped to handle the stage 1 map than the factory turbo, of which apparantly the earlier (around 2016?) versions are worse and more prone to failure. Rob at fastline also offered whether I wanted a baffld delete for around £100, which apparantly let's things flow a little easier at the cost of a fraction more noise so I said sure. Apparantly my turbo shat its compressor wheel down into the downpipe, and he said its hard to say just how much damage done to the cat, hard to see down there, and best to replace that downpipe really, so I went for a scorpion downpipe with 100cell8 free flowing cat. Time will tell how long such a cat holds up, apparantly one of the main differences in aftermarket downpipes with cats is how much of the expensive precious metals they coat onto the cat, so cheaper ones might not get through the mot for as many years. Scorpion one is best 'bang for buck' according to vrs Northampton so I went for that (my first option the more expensive bcs had a 5 week lead time also whereas scorpion was in stock). So new stronger turbo and baffle delete (£875), scorpion downpipe (£650), while I was at it found a used ramair turbo inlet elbow which gives a little better airflow on ebay (£56) . I also bought a forge silicone intake pipe off ebay for another £55, but the garage didn't fit it, saying it was crap - too soft and squeezy so likely to collapse under boost. They said the forge one with the hose and turbo elbow all in one is fine if you can get that, but the shorter hose without elbow section is crap. So return that, and maybe I'll get the Apr carbon pipe. Garage labour was £580 + VAT, so I'm around £2300 down. With the improved airflow, the engine light hasn't come on so far, so the stage 1 map is fuelling enough for the moment, although it may well come on and push me to remap again, at which point I may as well throw caution to the wind and do r600 Intake, Wagner intercooler, and the rest of the exhaust system

Edited 26 March, 2022 by AlVal

[UndertheRadar]

7 hours ago, AlVal said:

 

Rob at www.fastlineturbo.co.uk is local to me at Northampton, and Google reviews seemed good, so I had him supply his recommendation of a strengthened IS38(not sure of the technicalities of exactly how its strengthened but he says it should be a lot more reliable and far better equipped to handle the stage 1 map than the factory turbo, of which apparantly the earlier (around 2016?) versions are worse and more prone to failure. Rob at fastline also offered whether I wanted a baffld delete for around £100, which apparantly let's things flow a little easier at the cost of a fraction more noise so I said sure. Apparantly my turbo shat its compressor wheel down into the downpipe, and he said its hard to say just how much damage done to the cat, hard to see down there, and best to replace that downpipe really, so I went for a scorpion downpipe with 100cell8 free flowing cat. Time will tell how long such a cat holds up, apparantly one of the main differences in aftermarket downpipes with cats is how much of the expensive precious metals they coat onto the cat, so cheaper ones might not get through the mot for as many years. Scorpion one is best 'bang for buck' according to vrs Northampton so I went for that (my first option the more expensive bcs had a 5 week lead time also whereas scorpion was in stock). So new stronger turbo and baffle delete (£875), scorpion downpipe (£650), while I was at it found a used ramair turbo inlet elbow which gives a little better airflow on ebay (£56) . I also bought a forge silicone intake pipe off ebay for another £55, but the garage didn't fit it, saying it was crap - too soft and squeezy so likely to collapse under boost. They said the forge one with the hose and turbo elbow all in one is fine if you can get that, but the shorter hose without elbow section is crap. So return that, and maybe I'll get the Apr carbon pipe. Garage labour was £580 + VAT, so I'm around £2300 down. With the improved airflow, the engine light hasn't come on so far, so the stage 1 map is fuelling enough for the moment, although it may well come on and push me to remap again, at which point I may as well throw caution to the wind and do r600 Intake, Wagner intercooler, and the rest of the exhaust system

I’m glad your sorted and back on the road again. 
the forge intake pipes are generally really good quality. The racingline inlet pipe is of similar quality as well. They will both work happily with the separate elbow. 
they are designed not to collapse under vacuum but they do need to be pliable enough to flex along with engine movement, so as not to damage the pipe itself or the intake. 
I’ve fixed some in the golf R’s where people fitted a hard pipe inlet and after a short while it actually cracked the outlet from the air box. 
replaced with an R600, separate inlet hose and elbow in most cases, and never had one that gave any issues from then on.

Friends 7.5R runs 550ish bhp with that exact setup, and has done for years. 

She has been changing the oil every 6k and manually spooling up and down from she bought the car with just under 10k on it and now over 70k. 
 

[Awesam]

Will and Rob are top blokes.  I'm surprised Will never tried to tempt you into a TTV3! lol

 

If you were planning to go beyond stage 1 then I would have recommended the BCS downpipe or Trackslag 4" downpipe, both are expensive however the craftmanship is to none.

The turbo should give you a solid 400bhp if you did go beyond stg1.

Sadly not many people cater for the Superb for a full exhaust system, mostly here are custom built.  Was toying of the idea of getting a Milltek cat back system for a VW Arteon, which in theory should fit with some modification.

 

 

[LeGrumpy]

Hi all. I am looking at a 280 Superb 4x4, but I am unsure of the tuning potential of these.

 

Anyone knows how much torque a DSG6, DSG7 or haldex system  can take max ?

 

I know the engine can easy get 500+ with intercooler, downpipe, intake, exhaust, and turbo, but don't know how much strain you can put on the gearbox without upgraded clutch packs, or on the haldex.

[Awesam]

depending on which DSG you have:

 

DQ250 - 600NM Max

DQ380 - 700NM Max

[LeGrumpy]

1 hour ago, Awesam said:

depending on which DSG you have:

 

DQ250 - 600NM Max

DQ380 - 700NM Max

Thanks for that.

 

Seen that APR does an clutch kit . Any ideea if that make it take more power or just easy the strain on the gearbox ?

[Awesam]

I thought APR had stop making their clutch packs!

 

The APR clutch pack allowed for higher torque levels I think up to 800NM+.  All upgrade eases the strain on the gearbox.

 

The only other company I know who are doing clutch packs are RTMG, RTMG DSG DQ250 Upgraded Clutch Pack – RTMG (r-tmg.co.uk)

[Donweather]

On 04/04/2022 at 19:42, Awesam said:

depending on which DSG you have:

 

DQ250 - 600NM Max

DQ380 - 700NM Max

Can I ask where you get these figures from please as I’ve seen differently for the DQ250. 

[Awesam]

TVS DSG Software (awesomegti.com)

[Donweather]

5 hours ago, Awesam said:

TVS DSG Software (awesomegti.com)

Thanks but I’m not seeing 600Nm for stock? Or were you meaning just mechanically max value?

[Awesam]

Maybe I got it wrong and its 500nm as stock. 

Not sure what you mean by mechanically value. When you get a dsg tune they adjust the clamping pressure to ensure the clutch doesn't slip with the increase in torque. 

Edited 5 April, 2022 by Awesam

[Awesam]

So mines to tuned to 422ft lbs which is 572nm on a standard DQ250

[Donweather]

28 minutes ago, Awesam said:

So mines to tuned to 422ft lbs which is 572nm on a standard DQ250

What ECU tune do you have?  That’s a crazy amount of torque. 
 

Do you have a DSG tune?  Or by standard you mean pure stock DSG?