2 hours ago, JackySi said:

Does it actually help? What sort of difference do you expect/did you get? Less noise?

 

Found this, the closing of the door sounds softer. Probabl also help to reduce some vibration/noise during driving, not sure about the effect on as new car as Superb is (old Passat in the video). 

 

 

 

 

3 hours ago, Puuriit said:

help to reduce some vibration/noise during driving

doors rubber were little bit noisy on rough road

i have extra strips https://www.drive2.ru/l/517174261773763012/

 

5 hours ago, JackySi said:

Does it actually help?

same amount as price tag

Last week my ŠS3 went to dealer for replace of Windscreen,
asked to fix these rattles or do not mount camera cover back.
not fixed that earlier cause i didn't had idea how it can be disassembled.

they left cover removed,
so i were able add little bit fabric tape and few pieces of sound deadening foam rubber

 

 

but happiness weren't lasted long, three days later i had another visit
and this position weren't removed from their job list -
on the evening they reported "cover were removed, fixed and mounted back"

 

 

On 01/05/2018 at 10:42, MartiniB said:

that sound deadening has been add, but by result i satisfied just partly

https://www.drive2.com/l/474154769825398961/
https://www.drive2.com/l/471766905447777004/

 

i'm not brave enough to implement these, that kind of changes make car illegal on EU roads

https://www.drive2.com/l/7023860/
https://www.drive2.com/l/7147142/
https://www.drive2.com/l/7433929/

 

In one of your links someone put a Volvo vibration dampener on  the rear suspension crossbeam (I do not know the exact term for it).

Pay attention that it will not fit a 4x4 Superb because there is no room left to mount it.

6 minutes ago, gigolea said:

In one of your links someone put a Volvo vibration dampener on  the rear suspension crossbeam (I do not know the exact term for it).

Pay attention that it will not fit a 4x4 Superb because there is no room left to mount it.

I'm sorry but I really don't understand why would that make car illegal on our streets? U can adjust height of vehicle, add air suspension with adaptive height control, have DCC dampers, upgrade bushings, put car 10mm off the ground but you can't add few simple dampers/weights to suspension arms??? I don't buy that.

 

I'm pretty sure no one would even notice that. 

On 16/02/2019 at 17:06, JackySi said:

I'm sorry but I really don't understand why would that make car illegal on our streets? U can adjust height of vehicle, add air suspension with adaptive height control, have DCC dampers, upgrade bushings, put car 10mm off the ground but you can't add few simple dampers/weights to suspension arms??? I don't buy that.

 

I'm pretty sure no one would even notice that. 

I’m sorry but your reply does not refer to my post

Long shot question, but here we go:

So some time ago some one hit my car on the parking lot and I got a nasty dent in the door. Doors are covered by Dodo Mat's anti-vibration material, so I'm wondering will this material melt when they repair the dent?
I never saw how hot these panels get when they're repairing them, so I'm worried it will melt and create bad odor in the car.... I tried burning material with lighter and it doesn't burn, but it does melt and stink really badly when under fire... 

^^^

I'm also worried about that,
after two days dealer going to cut out and replace rear wing.

by two attempts of repair by paint they weren't able fix such small problem :(

 

after first and second attempts

 

added little bit Sloping D rubber

 

before vs after

 

firstly it must prevent of coming these dirt, but it works also as noise insulation

1 hour ago, MartiniB said:

^^^

I'm also worried about that,
after two days dealer going to cut out and replace rear wing.

by two attempts of repair by paint they weren't able fix such small problem :(

 

after first and second attempts

 

That sounds scary! Welding will melt material for sure... The metal gets very hot when they weld and the silent coat or similar material will not be able to withstand so high temperatures. 
What I have doesn't require cutting and welding anything lucky, but I have no idea how they fix dents otherwise. I saw they quick weld some pipes on metal and then push them outwards but idk how much does that heat up metal.
It really scares me, that maybe it could even cause fire with enough heat. I will for sure talk to dealer next week when I go drop off my car

I had damage on the wing too, the rear right tire made fender bend outwards and they never fixed it as it should be. If you look carefully you can easily see its not 100% straight. But at least paint is correct. So i'm not bothered much.

The rubber sounds good idea, does sound wise make big difference or unnoticeable? I will probably get something like that too, but these Chinese ones never stick enough =/ 
 

On 02/04/2019 at 22:23, JackySi said:

The rubber sounds good idea, does sound wise make big difference or unnoticeable? I will probably get something like that too, but these Chinese ones never stick enough

about +25% for sound deadening inside the doors

but i have also vertical Z Type rubber strips

 

Edited 31 May, 20233 yr by MartiniB

Hey guys, I just got Super shocked when doing rear arches. I found that Superb has a looot of noise insulation material in the rear, check the pic bellow. Wtf is going on?

 

Will silent coat improve anything over this?

 

 

 

11 hours ago, JackySi said:

Hey guys, I just got Super shocked when doing rear arches. I found that Superb has a looot of noise insulation material in the rear, check the pic bellow. Wtf is going on?

 

Will silent coat improve anything over this?

 

What year is your Superb? 

 

Unlikely, based on what I see there, I think the boot floor is a main contributor in the rear, just do the rear arches from the outside with silent coat

 

 

Edited 13 April, 20197 yr by digifish

7 hours ago, digifish said:

 

What year is your Superb? 

 

Unlikely, based on what I see there, I think the boot floor is a main contributor in the rear, just do the rear arches from the outside with silent coat

 

 

Its MY18. I did take off the original proofing over the arches and added 2-3 layers of Dodo Mat's 1.8mm anti-vibration pads and then Silent Coat's Absorber 15mm every where there was space. I don't notice much difference however. 
I did also the outside of arches with 2 layers of anti-vibration + some 10mm Dodo Superliner. I did even fuel tank with 2 layers of antivibration pads. Either my ears are crazy or I just don't feel any difference  

 

2 hours ago, JackySi said:

Either my ears are crazy or I just don't feel any difference  

 

 

Did you do all this at once or in stages?

 

The sort of insulation you are doing is lowering the fundamental frequency if the metal-work. And so should be mainly audible of coarse chip surfaces. Rough-surface roads / wet roads. 

 

On smooth tarmac you should not hear much difference.

 

 

Edited 13 April, 20197 yr by digifish

11 hours ago, digifish said:

 

Did you do all this at once or in stages?

 

The sort of insulation you are doing is lowering the fundamental frequency if the metal-work. And so should be mainly audible of coarse chip surfaces. Rough-surface roads / wet roads. 

 

On smooth tarmac you should not hear much difference.

 

 

 

I did 2 stages. One was Hood + Doors + Pillars + Front wheel arches 
last was Gass tank above, Whole trunk, including trunk "doors", outside wheel arch, every thing behind rear seats basically.


I see. Well I defo feel noticeable difference at 200km/h for example (compared to stock car) but I wanted to do something near Audi capacity, like A4 which is generally quieter. I don't mind engine noise, but the damn tyre noise is really annoying.
I had before BF Goodrich 235/45/R18 winter tyres (rated at 68db) and now Goodyear Asymetric F1 model 3 69db and they feel loud till 90km/h where the sound of "wind" and "engine" takes over.

Edited 14 April, 20197 yr by JackySi

31 minutes ago, JackySi said:

 

I see. Well I defo feel noticeable difference at 200km/h for example (compared to stock car).

 

I am paying attention as I am waiting for my matting to arrive and am about to do the same thing.

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Noico-Black-80-mil-36-sqft-Car-Sound-Deadening-Mat-Sound-Deadener-Insulation/251811595900

 

But noise reduction is a complex business, and includes the frequencies as well as the dB levels. And, even if you halve it, then the noisiest thing is still the noisiest thing  

 

My impressions in the stock car is most noise is front wheel arches and rear (generally everywhere back there).

 

I will make some before and after measurements as I have a bunch of audio gear to do it. How do you get the back side panels off the boot btw? Was there a guide somewhere?

 

 

Edited 14 April, 20197 yr by digifish

8 hours ago, digifish said:

 

I am paying attention as I am waiting for my matting to arrive and am about to do the same thing.

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Noico-Black-80-mil-36-sqft-Car-Sound-Deadening-Mat-Sound-Deadener-Insulation/251811595900

 

But noise reduction is a complex business, and includes the frequencies as well as the dB levels. And, even if you halve it, then the noisiest thing is still the noisiest thing  

 

My impressions in the stock car is most noise is front wheel arches and rear (generally everywhere back there).

 

I will make some before and after measurements as I have a bunch of audio gear to do it. How do you get the back side panels off the boot btw? Was there a guide somewhere?

 

 

I agree. I think a lot of noise also comes through windows on my car... I don't have acoustic windows because at the time of ordering the company I purchased car through didn't mention possibility for additional upgrade... I don't know how to upgrade these without super high costs. I also have some weird wind noise through rear right doors - only right (I checked seals and the way doors are adjusted and it seems to be all good... like the wind is crashing into something on the outside of the car), but that's at high speeds only. Also doors are properly configured so that front is little more outside the rear so wind doesn't crash into door sides, I had to do all this my self that's why I know. My car was really bad set from factory, you could hear wind noise as if windows were slightly open. 

For the trunk, its hard to explain, but initially I thought by looking service manual that I have to remove every thing, including the rear seats and every damn thing. What I did (as its seen on pic) is not removing the rear seats but only (in this order):

- Rear seat bench
- Rear Air bags (removed battery)

- Last Pillar (D I think)
- Removed Top of trunk (plastics that holds light, seat drop, 12v socket etc...)
- Removed "loading" plastic that has metal on it for dragging stuff in/out of the car, dunno the name
- Removed sides at "loading" plastic left/right

Then finally remove sides of the trunk, but not 100% remove, just bend them a little so u can get to stuff behind as seen on my pic above. Once you do it, its not hard to do it again, I had to remove it again because the sides of trunk started rattle very badly when listening to music at high volumes (sub shakes)... For some reason the plastic clips of the trunk sides didn't hold plastic to the metal firmly as before but that's weird cause I was very gentle and I am sure i didn't bend/damage any of these plastics. Any way I removed top again to fix rattle and added anti-vibration material between plastics. Now its quiet.

P.S.: Its possible to remove top covers of the trunk without removing airbags, but its risky business as you might damage C pillar as I did (it doesn't stay firmly on anymore... Top left side of pillar seems to be bit off for some stupid reason... 

A cheap and effective solution

21 minutes ago, xman said:

A cheap and effective solution

Have you tried them on your other half?If you can still hear her then they are not worth the £6.99 investment.

I just started on my Skoda Superb III sedan/hatch this weekend using only Noico Black Byutl (aluminium on buytl) sheets.

 

TLDR - Bonnet, quieter engine, road noise subtle improvement but nice. Boot, totally worth it. 

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251811595900

 

 

Quality product. Large sheets, About 2 mm thick. You get nine ~ 750 mm x 508mm x 2 mm - sheets in a box @ 12.7 kg. I really like the black, it looks (almost) OEM once installed.

 

 

1. Under bonnet - First I did under the bonnet (the 4 panels available once you remove the heat blanket held on by clips (as you can see here in Alfonsos post). TIP: To get a template for the shapes, I taped some wide-roll aluminium foil over each cutout and rolled around the edges with my roller. Then cut the pattern out with scissors and transferred to the sheeting by tracing and cutting the byutl. For the two side panels, as they are mirrored, just flip the foil template over once to make the compliment.

 

Test drive - This made the engine noise noticeably quieter in the cab and (surprisingly) seemed to tame a bit of road-noise.  Just a sense of things being calmer up front. There must be some coming up through the engine bay, through the bonnet and then through into the cabin from the windshield?)

 

2.  Boot floor - Then I did the boot. Basically covered 80% of the visible surface when you remove the floor panel and wheel. That is, no clipped on trim removed, only what comes off to get at the spare tyre.

 

Test drive - I was quite shocked by the difference over coarse chip surfaces. The back of the cabin behind me was noticeably, and dramatically quieter. The noise used to feel surround-sound and quite annoying on a rough surface. Now it sounds like its mainly coming from the front wheel arches and the cabin feels a lot calmer already. I will get back in and complete all surfaces later, but I would not expect it to make a lot of difference now.

 

Next weekend onto the wheel arches then. For me the boot was definitely worth it and a huge change. Sound was just coming in through the floor and projecting into the cabin off that perfectly angled rear hatch.

 

FWIW on a smooth road there really is not much difference, its only when the surface is that coarse, sharp aggregate that you really notice this (since the deadening is filtering out the high frequencies radiating into the cabin). If the roads in your region are like that on the left below, then this is all probably irrelevant. And why I think there is so much variability in the reported effectiveness of these tweaks. But if they are like those on the right (or your roads are frequently wet). This is a must-do upgrade. Quite grumpy at Skoda now for skimping on 20 Kg of sound deadening, they really could have improved the NVH of this vehicle with very little effort. 

 

 

 

Oh and for the record, I have Conti SportContact 235x45x18 tyres and Adaptive Shocks (usually set to comfort). Test drive is on smooth and coarse chip surfaces at 110 km/hr (google it) (~ 70 mph). Car on delivery here.

 

 

Edited 5 May, 20197 yr by digifish

@digifish I’m interested in following your lead and starting a mini NVH improvemt project. I’m also from Aus so any tips would be welcome.

 

The link you provided has additional shipping fee of $72 when the product is $70 is that correct?

12 hours ago, New2018 said:

@digifish I’m interested in following your lead and starting a mini NVH improvemt project. I’m also from Aus so any tips would be welcome.

 

The link you provided has additional shipping fee of $72 when the product is $70 is that correct?

 

Yes, the price of a single box delivered to Aus is ~ $190 per box ( 3.3 m2 ) I got two boxes, but but one would probably be enough. That said, I like this stuff a lot, and its handy to have more

 

 

 

BTW while a utility knife and straight edge is perfect for straight line cutting. Scissors go through it like butter too, and so if you are cutting curves etc, use those.

 

As I noted above, on smooth-surface domestic streets its really difficult to hear the boot effect. But once you are at speed on our coarse chip blue-stone roads, big win.

 

 

Since my car has only done about 1000 km so far, I really don't like to throw away brand new ContiSportContact 5 tyres, but when I replace them, I will also be looking for something quieter.

Edited 6 May, 20197 yr by digifish

Thanks @digifish for posting your experience. I was previously in 2 minds if just doing the exposed boot area will have an effect since I don't fancy removing trim. 

 

Based on what you said, I'll give it a go. 

Under bonnet pic ... all you need to do is pay attention to the orientation of the clip heads (put them back the way they were installed due to the oval slots they go in. If they are rotated 90 degrees to the correct direction they will fall out), the clips are relatively easy to get out. The head squeezes together and releases the clip, with a little bit of tugging. 

 

The cover itself is light as a fluffy cushion and no problem at all to handle.  Leave one of the top clips in till last, a single clip will support the weight of the whole cover.

 

Edited 6 May, 20197 yr by digifish