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Light Assist Retrofit


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hy, i read the topic above and try to install in my 2006 octavia a light assist. I have from factory only rain sensor and i replace it with a rain/light sensor, i change the light button - one with auto position, make the wire connection but i cannot make it work: when i scan with VCDS i caanot see the light sensor - it seen only the rain sensor and when i put the button i AUTO position the lights stay always ON.

The sensor i take it from a 2009 golf V.

any ideas, please?

thank you

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  • 5 months later...

Hi all,

I have a 2012 octavia elegance which I have inserted the wire from pin 2 to pin 20 as per Fl instructions and I'm picking up the auto headlight switch later today.

Does anybody know the exacts of where I go to program auto lights/Ch and Lh and window auto close (rain sensor control) on this Fl model ?

Thanks, Andy.

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VCDS

09-central electronics

Long coding helper

Check assistance lights

Coming and leaving home.

For the rain closing -- before you go into in the long coding helper there are two dialogue boxes .. The above one has a drop down menu ..go on the second option .. You should find the rain closing option there ..

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Thanks for the reply.

My mate has managed to turn on cornering lights,rain closing and get rid of my lock/unlock chirps but no auto lights yet or ch/Lh lights as its saying a fault is seen so we are going to look at it again in a few days.

When you select auto lights it puts the lights on in bright daylight straight away.

The first bits I mention are all working ok.

Also he noticed auto mirror tilt in reverse gear which he ticked and hasn't worked but he was thinking he may need to look at the door module which we didn't have time for today.

Any ideals anybody?

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Also he noticed auto mirror tilt in reverse gear which he ticked and hasn't worked but he was thinking he may need to look at the door module which we didn't have time for today.

Any ideals anybody?

I was told mirror-tilt only works when you have the electric memory seats.

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Anybody else with information regarding my lights staying on in the day after ticking the Assistance lights/CH/LH automatic ticked with pin 2 light switch connected to pin 20 module and auto light switch fitted?

Have one error message and no auto action.

Anybody else had and sorted this on a face lift model?

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Hi all

Greetings from Denmark.

I just thought I would share my experiences with this.

I orderd a new lightswitch from skodateile.cz - the "delux" version - http://www.skodateil...rod=240&sjaz=en

I have a 2010 HB Elegance FL with Rain Sensor/Dimming mirror.

Checking the light switch connector (after I bought the switch!!) I was relieved to see that all 10 wires were connected.

Then I did the following programming via VCDS - My central electronic module has 30 bit.

Byte 12, Bit 1 = 1

Byte 12, Bit 2 = 0

Byte 17, Bit 3 = 0

Byte 17, Bit 4 = 1

Byte 17, Bit 5 = 1

Byte 17, Bit 6 = 1

There was one error in the central electronics after I changed the light swich - be sure to clear this!

At first it would'n work, but after removing the key from the car for 10 minutes it all works - Assistance Driving Light, Comming Home and Leaving home.

All of them only comes in effect if I block the sensor in daylight.

Greedings,

Lars

Edited by isthmus
  • Thanks 1
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Thanks buddy,your information and the help of vRS Carl and his knowledge/vcds has sorted all my issues and given me more functionality than I first thought about!

Thank you,

Andy.

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  • 1 month later...

Just for peoples information:

The two types of light switch (both with front fogs) are:

1Z0 941 431 E 3x1 (this is the one with a funny tunnel symbol)

1Z0 941 431 J REH (this is the one with Auto in wording) I fitted this one to my 2006 model VRS and it works fine

I ordered mine form Skodaparts.com here http://www.skodapart...2008-2012-49997

They also sell the repair wires online too here: http://www.skodapart.../wire-set-24948 (you will need 2)

Rob

Edited by vrs777
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  • 2 months later...

Yet another desperate retrofitter...

So, story so far is: I have MY2008 Octavia RS Estate with RLS installed, but no auto/tunnel switch. I managed to get my hands on switch from MY2011 witch comes with both front and back fogs and states AUTO (1ZO 941 431J 3KX).

Out with the old and new in - checked that all pins appeared to be wired and also 'the magical purple wire' were there. Set switch to AUTO and started car. First notice was that dashboard lights was on, witch they didn't with old switch. Also checked that every position worked out fine. Have to say by the way, RLS is doing great job controlling those dashboard lights - works like a charm!

But now, I have been messing around little bit with coding and cannot manage to get CH/LH working. Starts to feel that I have read every single forum and post about this with no luck.

So right now I would appreciate very much if anyone could give me the right steps to follow. Before I have to admit my defeat and go to local dealer - witch is the last thing on earth right now what I want. :swear:

Could the newer light switch be the problem here? Or is the coding totally wrong? Or both?

Feel free to PM or post here for more info if required (coding etc.).

Thanks,

Vellu

Edited by Vellu
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Hmmm, the wire being purple isn't a hard and fast rule. Does the plug have *all* the pins wired, Most especially Pin 2? Without the wire, setting the switch to Auto brings the lights on all the time and CH/LH doesn't work.

As far as I am aware, if you didn't get auto-lights from the factory, "wire 2" isn't in the loom. If you look at the back of your old switch, you should see that Pin 2 is missing.

Edited by RainbowFore
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Hmmm, the wire being purple isn't a hard and fast rule. Does the plug have *all* the pins wired, Most especially Pin 2? Without the wire, setting the switch to Auto brings the lights on all the time and CH/LH doesn't work.

As far as I am aware, if you didn't get auto-lights from the factory, "wire 2" isn't in the loom. If you look at the back of your old switch, you should see that Pin 2 is missing.

When I changed the switch, I tried to look that every pin were plugged. But after reading your post, I decided to give it more specific look. So I took switch out, took the wire loom apart and checked that all the pins were connected - especially pin #2, and there it is as I looked up before.

pins_2.jpg

And as you said, if I take a look to the back of the old switch there's no pin 2.

So maybe I have to check the other end of wire from the control box?

Edited by Vellu
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Okay, figured it out. My first codings were way over what needed... What I did was went back to orginal code and started it all over again: BYTE 0, ticked BIT 5 and 7 and saved, cleared fault code and boom. There it was!

After fast testing, CH/LH works just fine. And what is the best, it looks that they work just like it should; when RLS have enough light xenons don't go on and when it doesn't get the light they go on.

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  • 2 years later...

Sorry about replying to an old thread.

 

Does anyone know if part number 3TD-941-431 would be suitable for a 2005 MK2 Elegance once the cable mod has been done. I have front fogs fitted.

 

Skoda want around 85 quid for the 1Z0 941 431 E 3X1 switch mentioned earlier in the thread.

 

Thanks.

 

John

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  • 7 months later...

Sorry for some thread dredging.

Just in the middle of retrofitting this to a FL.

Lower dash is all off and wire is in at the switch end.

Struggling with BCM removal to get Terminal A pin 20.

Any pointers as I don't fancy breaking the BCM!

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  • 1 year later...

Hi all well i been reading all the pages re auto head lights and the concluision i ended up with is i need to fit this wire !

 

now the head ack begines as  my Skoda parts place havent got a clue what im talking about and cant find the part

can some one give me a part number to give the parts deparment maybe ??

 

HERES HOPEING

Anthoney :angel:

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Just for peoples information:

The two types of light switch (both with front fogs) are:

1Z0 941 431 E 3x1 (this is the one with a funny tunnel symbol)

1Z0 941 431 J REH (this is the one with Auto in wording) I fitted this one to my 2006 model VRS and it works fine

I ordered mine form Skodaparts.com here http://www.skodapart...2008-2012-49997

They also sell the repair wires online too here: http://www.skodapart.../wire-set-24948 (you will need 2)

Rob

 

Just want to add this  so any one looking will find this wire thats needed for auto light i just orderd the wires from SKODA the ones they couldent find till i saw this link a BIG THANK YOU for the bottem link

all the best anthoney

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  • 1 month later...

Sorry for reviving this thread.

 

I have a 1Z0 941 431 J switch that was replaced because it gives an implausible signal, causing my low beams and rear lights to be on all the time when the key is in the contact and turned on. I paid close to 70€ for the replacement part, so evidently I'd love to know what's wrong with the old part.

 

Does anyone know if this can be tested with just a multimeter? Evidently there's more than just a set of contacts inside...

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Does anyone know if this can be tested with just a multimeter? Evidently there's more than just a set of contacts inside...

 

It's just a bunch of switches so a multimeter should be fine. Great thread here taking the golf version apart: http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31272

 

This is the wiring diagram for the Octavia version:

post-121621-0-51210700-1474289679_thumb.png

 

Looks to be:

- Off, 8 to 9

- Auto, 8 to 2

- Sidelight, 8 to 3

- Dipped, 8 to 1

- Front fog, 8 to 5

- Rear fog, 8 to 7

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Great thread indeed. So the PCB is just for the internal lights, or does it contain the logic for the auto lights-on (I cannot help but not notice that the Eu version with auto function has a more complex PCB)?

Do you know what the 0,5 and 0,35 values stand for?

 

Also, didn't you exchange sidelight and dipped? The sequence on the switch is Off/Auto/Side/Dipped, which corresponds to the 9,2,1,3 (RtL) sequence in the wiring diagram.

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The numbers are the wire thickness, so 0.35mm2 and 0.5mm2 assuming they are in mm2.

 

There is no logic in the OEM auto switch, it's all done by the BCM and RLS (rain light sensor). The switch only reports it's in the 'auto' position.

 

If you use a Chinese retrofit kit with an extra sensor, that will have some logic built in.

 

The rotary switch isn't in the order that you'd expect ;) If you look at which pole is connected on the diagram, from right to left it's:

- Left (off)

- Second left (auto)

- Right (dipped)

- Second right (sidelight)

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...
On 10/03/2012 at 08:26, isthmus said:

Hi all

Greetings from Denmark.

I just thought I would share my experiences with this.

I orderd a new lightswitch from skodateile.cz - the "delux" version - http://www.skodateil...rod=240&sjaz=en

I have a 2010 HB Elegance FL with Rain Sensor/Dimming mirror.

Checking the light switch connector (after I bought the switch!!) I was relieved to see that all 10 wires were connected.

Then I did the following programming via VCDS - My central electronic module has 30 bit.

Byte 12, Bit 1 = 1

Byte 12, Bit 2 = 0

Byte 17, Bit 3 = 0

Byte 17, Bit 4 = 1

Byte 17, Bit 5 = 1

Byte 17, Bit 6 = 1

There was one error in the central electronics after I changed the light swich - be sure to clear this!

At first it would'n work, but after removing the key from the car for 10 minutes it all works - Assistance Driving Light, Coming Home and Leaving home.

All of them only comes in effect if I block the sensor in daylight.

Greedings,

Lars

 

My local Skoda Garage, ( Hayes, In Little Clacton, Essex ) , Supplied and fitted my new switch with AUTO on it, I have a " MY12 Skoda Octavia Elegance without maxidot or Multifunction steering wheel,but with all the sensors," and installed the wire from pin 2 on switch and pin 20 on the BCM, and followed the above information, and I now have Auto lights, with CH/LH as well.    Yet to try the rain closing windows, but I have a funny feeling they would work, but I don't usually leave windows open on my car, even in the summer.

So Many thanks to " isthamus " for the info.

By the way.   Leaving the car for 10 mins wasn't needed, just removal of the key for about a minute was all that was needed in my case.

Edited by keith1955
Missed out some info.
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