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Might it be connected to your audio system by chance double check the color code red and black? See if it's a speaker wire

Sorry, in the previous post I wrote report to DVSC when I meant DVSA. They came back with the response that because I did not lose control of the car, it is not a recall issue. They ignored the fact that if I had stalled the car on the hill, then I would not have been able to restart it due to needing to press the clutch and maybe the accelerator at the same time... so requiring me to release the foot brake, or at least juggle my feet. ignored no warning of pending failure, or anyway to exam, if on minor slope then could have left car with hand brake on engaged, other vehicles with handbrake failures have had recall (suspect larger % of vehicle population reported that they failed) I have put in a FOIR to the DVSA for the number of reported cases and what discussions have been made with Manufacture about the issue. The FOIR has been delayed while they consider if it is subject to Section 31 (either there is a case pending, or they don't want to show negligence on their part and not in public interest????). I have my original handbrake and a the new button I bought and garage used to test it did not fix problem. I've since put button on and it will now not flick off, although it did the first time I tried it when I got it home, go figure. Please report to DVSA, numbers matter, especially if car rolled or felt lost in dangerous situation I found a Skoda document API 11/2014, online showing changed something in 2014 (CW14/2014 Introduce a fixture to fit the locking mechanism at manufacturer). Symptoms: The handbrake button unexpectedly releases, causing the internal spring to fall out. Because the internal pawl can no longer lock into the ratchet teeth, the handbrake lever fails to stay up and defaults to the "brake not applied" position. Cause: Structural damage or clearance issues within the leather sleeve assembly allowing the locking mechanism to unseat. Factory Fix (CW14/2014): Škoda introduced a dedicated manufacturing fixture during Calendar Week 14 of 2014 to ensure the locking mechanism is perfectly aligned and secured during assembly. Vehicles suffering from this failure typically require a full replacement of the handbrake lever assembly. They won't confirm anything in writing about how many they have seen, what got altered in 2014, but some good will given.

The issue I have is that I turn it on at the start of the journey, but then go on a motorway and it can get confused by the centre railing and blind the cars coming the other way, if I pull it back on the stalk it will blind the cars in front. Or I'm on a dark road with no lighting, and following another car, so it is lighting up the path full beam but there are people walking on it, the car will not dip the lights for the walkers, so I don't seem to have an option to put it to low beam other then blinding the car in front .

I have had to change mine a couple of times. I always have a spare battery in my wallet and another in the top cubby hole just in case, always Panasonic.

Really like the 1.5 sportline Karoq and the dealer tells me it’s an ATC model.I came from a cupra and understand it will when it’s ready to run on 2 cylinders but no blue light or eco icon shows up.

Hi, I have just seen that Carista claims (https://carista.com/apps/supported-cars/skoda/superb/mk4_sfd), that there are some customization possibilities like refual quantitym pressure display (I guess tire pressure), or some dashboard themes. Have anyone tried it? Thanks.

I prefer to do it on most cars as usually they tyres on the driven axle wear a lot quicker than the non-driven one. I also usually put CrossClimate tyres on our cars at the first tyres change so that means changing all four and it's a waste to change the rears (on a FWD car) when the rears might still have 5mm on them. Costco used to offer a bigger discount if you bought 4 tyres at once, but they stopped doing that some years ago. Having said that, you're supposed to have the least worn tyres on the back, so waiting until the fronts are well worn then sticking them on the back isn't a great idea. In the US they like to rotate tyres every 5K miles - it's part of the wear guarantee on many tyres there. Interestingly, on our Hyundai EV, tyre rotation is part of the 20K service. Dealer (service manager) laughed and said they never do it.

Hi Not yet. My friend came up and ran his code reader that didn't give any further information on the problem. He thinks it's probably a broken or corroded wire or a wire that's come off a tab - there's one right next to the oil filter. Unfortunately I'm not able to scrabble around under the car so I'm waiting for my partner to come home in a couple of weeks to have a look.

Can y0u prescribe me a brave pill please?

Yes, what you say, @Neily03 is the only way. If you enter a lit area whilst on auto (so it becomes dipped all the time) there's no way to take it out of auto until you stop. Even pulling the stalk back - giving other road users a flash in the process- doesn't reset it. It stays on auto until you switch off the engine.

Pull it back white its actually on high beam.

Hello Briskoda, I'm looking for plans for housing for a Sub in the boot. I'd like to make something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/178156746495?_ul=GB&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338365712&toolid=20006&customid=CjwKCAiAhqHXBhAXEiwATbksU10fcAmPmU5DhypBftjFMbltN2PVTxK_y_e4UVF8jg1glebzXcv9bxoCJRYQAvD_BwE%7C0AAAAADANKJkHWDmZESEhaytaRbtG6nG3G%7Cnull&gclid=CjwKCAiAhqHXBhAXEiwATbksU10fcAmPmU5DhypBftjFMbltN2PVTxK_y_e4UVF8jg1glebzXcv9bxoCJRYQAvD_BwE&gbraid=0AAAAADANKJkHWDmZESEhaytaRbtG6nG3G&loc_physical_ms=9045885&adtype=pla - it's a lot of money to pay for just a box. Has anyone made their own box? Equally if anyone's selling one i'd been keen to talk! Cheers

what do you advise then? I think £270 is steep for a Oil & Inspection Service - then another £116 for Brake Fluid Change?

Kwik fit / Halfords tyre centres! What is the worst that can happen.??? Lots. Then there is the health check you might get, and we are back to advising discs or pads.

No, FW0480 is final by Skoda

Many thanks for your replies.

I never bother with tyre rotation. I don't believe in it as the suspension geometry at each corner - Tracking, Camber etc - is different therefore you are switching tyres that have worn to match a particular suspension geometry to another corner with a different suspension geometry. The tyres just won't work properly. I used to race and even using tyres on the same corners on a clockwise circuit often wouldn't work if the same tyres had already been used on an anti-clockwise circuit. I accept that is very more extreme case but it demonstrates the point.

Great PDI!

Hi all anyone know what this single wire could be thats coming through beside the door connectors

so just had the 2nd year service, cost me £269.30 for the Oil & Inspection Service - I then got an email afterwards saying I should have had the brake fluid changed for an additional £116 - taking the p!ss?? should I just get this done locally (Kwik fit etc?)

Thank you, the factory fit tyres are non directional, so front to back then. The tyre pressure monitoring bothered me as I had a pressure monitoring problem day 3 of my factory new car, turned out the pressures were all over the place!

I went with Road Angel Halo and had it fitted by Halfords (front and back) very good.

Best option would be to try and balance caravan to reduce nose weight. Just make sure you dont make it two rear end heavy as risk of snaking. Folks years ago used a set of old bathroom scales under jockey wheel with a bit of sheet wood on top to check. They took everything with them even though they were only going for a week!! They towed with Volvo 940 but reckon Superb will be an excellent tow car due to its size and weight. Alasdair

Just two hours ago the clutch slave cylinder has been replaced. At the same time they replaced a small battery hidden somewhere inside the interior overhead light housing – which I didn’t even know it existed! The technician explained that the slave cylinder had a tiny leak and would eventually fail, potentially leaving me without a clutch. However, the "issue" regarding the car’s inability to pull away smoothly and gently when using only a little throttle and low RPMs remains more or less unresolved. As far as I can tell, the only changes I noticed after the repair are a slightly softer pedal feel (it was soft enough anyway) and a slightly different engagement/disengagement point. Otherwise, that hesitation immediately after moving off from a standstill still persists to some degree. Maybe just a little less obvious because the slight change at the engagement point drives me to a different foot reaction and different synchronization with the throttle... The technician claims this isn't a problem and that the car behaves exactly as a brand-new one would when leaving the showroom. To me, this suggests a factory-inherent "flaw" that no service center or technician can fix. The only “solution” is to adapt my driving style—specifically how I pull away—which actually minimizes or even eliminates the issue. So, don’t waste your time, energy, or money on something that isn't actually broken. Just adapt and live with it - simple as that… The good thing about the whole story is that I didn’t pay anything.

Welcome to the forum. I use a Nextbase 222 with the integrated rear camera - surprisingly good rear coverage despite the camera being on the front screen. One con, camera can be a little fussy about class of micro-usb card, card can also apparently run into issues if not reviewed and re-formatted (erased) occasionally.