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I'm 95% sure the front doors are the same. If you look up the part numbers, are they different?

For coding, remember you'll need to add the cornering light function too.

Not interested, but just wanted to say what a well-written advert this is! Best of luck with the sale.

Yes the P33400P update fixed the repeated infotainment unit updates.

Hi @pab567 Could you possibly send me "mst2_eu_sk_zr_p0253t" for my headunit please? Do you have some kind of PayPal / Buy me a coffee donation set up? Thanks! Jim

PROBLEM SOLVED! Just replaced the main T-stat with an oem MHALE wich is the producer for VAG. The one i replaced first was a Myle brand. I think what happened is i got a bad myle t-stat that worked for a while but the dsg stat was bad. I then replaced the dsg stat but by the time i did that the myle t stat had failed. Then. Just buy Oem parts. It will save you so much trouble. Hope this helps somone.

The Ice Scraper has moved to the lower lefthand edge of the boot lid (when open). It won't fit in the EV "filler flap" anymore, since the fitting of the big rubber socket seal on the flap door.

With the Donald inflated fuel prices, I think a car with the economy of the Greenline is the perfect spec. And even if diesel were £1.40 a litre, there's still a lot to be said for stopping for fuel every 700 to 800 miles.

But there are 3 pins on the LED lights and only 2 on the halogen. Unless i connect the LED just as straight forward on/off fogs. Is that possible?

You hv a NAV button so you have an Amundsen MIB1 map updates stopped 5 years after the MIB1 ws last used in production, which was early 2015 - so the 2020/2021 update is the most recent available for MIB1.

No problem. I'm pretty confident you'll see a red light. If you haven't already thrown away the original oil pressure switch you took out, keep it as a spare in case the (presumably aftermarket) replacement fails prematurely.

its a big job but can be done on the drive at home i did mine over an easter weekend. front in the air on axel stands the hardest bit was getting the gearbox back in i had a helper for this part of the job. i have done many clutches in the past the clutch i used was an ebay solid flywheel kit one.

VIN now provided and the ETKA page entitled "Radiator louvre" is greyed out for this car, indicating non-fitment of those items.

ok, will do, thank you, will try early this week.

You'd think, but trust me and try what I suggest.

Ok, I'll try (not tonight, now it's dark) but I thought at idle it would need to alert if the oil pressure somehow fell to nothing. The engine would be damaged at idle. Also, I thought it should show at a cold startup, just to show the light is working, like the other lights do.

Make your own adapter. Buy the connector, pins, wires, and automotive-grade electrical tape, and you’re all set to go.

Thank you. Hopefully, we should be set for a few years!

Thanks! great info!

Shouldn't it have SK in the name not VW?

No, it's needs to be driven, or at least revved in neutral at more than 1500rpm. Not sure if bonnet shut and actual vehicle motion required, let us know, please. Below 1500rpm the switch state isn't monitored.

No, I shall do if that's what it takes, but I'd assumed that with the connector unplugged the light would be red?

Hi all. Im getting all the parts together to fit an vRS bumper on my regular Octavia. Came across an issue with front fog lights as the wireing is not a straight plug and play. Has anyone done it before? Is there a adapter on the market or any solution? Want to keep the car as close to stock as possible in terms of fog lights, cornering lights and stuff. Any information or recommendation is much appreciated.

thanks for the reply- though I was really after the specs I do get what you are saying, when I got the Leon, I really wanted the 300, But couldnt justify the cost. The compromise was that I would get the Leon mapped. I never did, as I never really felt the need. So, again, I have to decide on the compromise lol. But I am starting to like the idea of a newer, different model over a more powerful "existing" model

Website cleared my draft (?). Not retyping. Removed rear right pillar cover (Easy) Got 50 Ohm buzzer out complete with its connector and a short wire tail (Cut wires at clip) by gently pulling down back of headlining. Intentionally destroyed its plastic mountings because they fitted it forward facing on the rear roof beam! New OE replacement part going back behind rear right pillar cover with original connector and wire tail soldered and sleeved to wire pair behind pillar cover. Beware of Chinese buzzer clones, They may be 8 Ohms, too quiet and could damage controller buzzer driver.