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Hello @Krisz-III-FL ! I am looking for a solution for my 2018 Skoda-Superb and I have read here what you achieved. I will Try also on mine. How did your solution go so far? Thank you !

Thank you so much! Donated

I find it really hard to understand VAG reasoning that oil pressure doesn't require constant monitoring!

My Android auto has stopped working because of the 00:00 bug. I believe I need SK_PQ_P0369T - is anyone able to help please? Many thanks!

it is for cold winter, where thermostat dont open at all. so airflow thru cooler is not needed. with this blocage engine warms up more quickly.

The main things to watch on the BMN, going by the workshop procedure for that engine: - **Get the right bits before you start.** The seal kit (heat shield/washer and O-rings), plus new clamp bolt and rocker shaft bolts, because they're stretch bolts. Worth getting new ball studs and adjusting screws for the rockers as well, as the procedure says to replace them. - **Before you take anything apart,** if you have VCDS, record the injector balance values (measuring block 013) so you can compare afterwards. - **Getting them out:** the rocker shaft needs to come off evenly, and a stuck injector needs the proper slide hammer puller. Don't lever on the solenoid or the connector. Suck the fuel out of the bore before the new one goes in. - **O-rings:** lubricate lightly and fit them without rolling or twisting, otherwise you'll get fuel in the oil later. - **Refitting:** the injector has to be pushed square into its seat with the clamp while you tighten. If it isn't, it won't seal properly. - **Rocker adjustment:** this is the bit people get wrong. The adjusting screw is set with a dial gauge against the injector after fitting, and the procedure is specific to the engine. Get the workshop data for the BMN for this step and the torque figures, and don't copy figures from the 8v PD or the common rail engines, as they're different. Afterwards, prime the fuel, check for leaks, check the balance values again, and keep an eye on the oil level for the first few hundred miles in case an O-ring is leaking fuel into the oil.

Thanks CKO that's good to know. Your best figure is basically what Skoda give as an average mpg . I'll just have to live with petrol MPG now given the demise of the good old diesel VRS. Thanks again - Ian.

My colour edition also have fancy wheel trim inserts ( removable ) fitted to reduce the air flow 🤔

1. Where to put the display (Web Interface): No external display needs to be mounted on the dashboard – the screenshot you see is taken directly from a web browser. The CarKit1 box itself is hidden wherever the Comfort CAN-BUS is accessible, for example under the dashboard next to the Gateway. It features built-in Wi-Fi and its own web server. You can view the data directly on your phone, tablet, or on an Android head unit (if you have one installed in your Superb II) simply by opening a web browser. 2. What the Lite version can do & Price: The Lite version is a purely local Wi-Fi variant (without an LTE modem or SIM card). It reads live data from the bus (fuel consumption, driving parameters, battery voltage, central locking and door statuses) and saves a local trip logbook / driving statistics into its internal memory. The target price for the Lite version would be around £75. 3. How the Active Alarm works (PRO version): The PRO version has its own built-in 4G/LTE modem. When the car is locked, the module monitors the CAN-BUS for the status of all doors, bonnet, boot, and ignition. If an unauthorized door opening or ignition turn-on is detected while the car is locked, the unit immediately calls your phone and sends a warning SMS specifying the exact reason the alarm was triggered. Also, if you have MQTT configured, the alert information is sent there as well.

i put new hidraulic mount, Lemforder, and on lower mount i put powerflex yellow insert. now engine runs in idle like a diesel, but i think it will settle down more after a while. hidraulic mount had bad play, new one have almost not play at all.. https://photos.app.goo.gl/4hDEtQ2Q3wDCwcx7A

Hi all. Just seeking advice on injector seal change on my pd170. Bmn engine. Im handy with tools so not worried in that respect. Im just asking if there is anything to be wary of before I venture into changing them or if there is any guides on how to do them for my specific engine

So how much would lite version be and what can it do ? What is the alarm function ? Where would you put the display on a mk2 superb ?

I have started to get the same noise on my mk2. Only noticeable at slow speeds and when taking off. I think it might be drive shaft related as I also have a wobble when accelerating especially around 40mph felt through car not steering wheel. Last mot advised front wishbone bushes(the large ones in alloy block were worn) and it was soon after the noise started. Its not there all the time but a combination of worn bushes and a drive shaft also worn or out of balance in my case may be causing the noise. Have checked everything else and it all seems solid. On mine it sounds like a flapping noise as well and gets worse when turning hard left or right. Havent checked properly yet but wondering if inner cv joint gator is rubbing. I first thought it was the brake disc shield rubbing but its clear of disc. Cant take car of road until tomorrow as long as my sons passes its MOT as need a car everyday. Alasdair

The dent on the right-handside rim is really small. I had ran over concrete lane separators and I only feel that there's a dent around 50 kmh and 110 kmh. which shakes the front a little. Nothing severe. I started to think that this sound is actually comming from this brake disc.

Hi. I searched for a comfortable car with space in the booth and towbar. It became to be a 2024 Skoda Enyaq iv85x, corrida red. Sofar am I really satisfied. It is my first EV and I have realized that it is a lot to learn to handle the car, especially about charging.

I found another Part Number reference and a link that relates specifically to Fabia Mk4 models. This drawing shows the 'radiator louvre' assembly and there's no real doubt about what it looks like and its position on the car. There's a Skoda Fabia Owners Club Facebook group and (when I have a moment) I'll ask owners of Mk4s if their cars have the cooling-shutter unit and, if so, which country their car was bought in and its age and specification.

Hi everyone, I have a Skoda Felicia MPI, and I have been trying to diagnose a strange noise coming from the front of the car for quite a long time. I have attached a video so you can hear the noise. The noise sounds like a metallic scraping or rubbing noise. It does not happen all the time. Sometimes it starts while driving at around 60 km/h, and other times it starts at around 80 km/h. The most noticeable thing is how the noise changes when I turn the steering wheel: When the noise starts, turning the steering wheel slightly to the right makes it stop. Turning the steering wheel slightly to the left makes the noise start again. Turning further to the left makes the noise stop again. Lightly pressing the brake pedal also makes the noise stop. I have already replaced the front brake discs, front brake pads, brake caliper pistons and wheel bearings, but the noise is still there. Has anyone experienced a similar problem on a Skoda Felicia or another car? What would you recommend checking next? I would really appreciate any suggestions, especially from anyone who has experienced the same symptoms. Thanks in advance!

Link to download MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0253T sent in PM. If you want you can donate The Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity

I've lived with mine for 3.5 years now and get anything from 11.6 km/l to 13.8 km/l in mixed driving in Christchurch, NZ. Apologies, you'll have to do the conversion to Imperial units on your own. It is quite frugal but has the grunt when you need it. Hope the above helps in your decision.

Hi my name is Josh, I am doing a skoda fabia 1.4 vrs 2010, rebuild. I am not doing a rebuild because of piston ring land failure, but more as a prevention measure. I noticed there is not much videos on YouTube. So I am documenting it to post for others to see. I will keep you guys who want to see the video updated when I upload it. I wanted to do a DQ250 swap. But it's hard finding a guide or a post of what was done from start to finish. I know I need a DQ250, but is it only the DQ250 from a 1.4 tsi like the touran 1.4 tsi dsg and the golf mk5 1.4 tsi dsg (DQ250) that will fit? Or will others fit from the 2.0 tsi and 1.9tdi/2.0 tdi group fit? I read somewhere the left side drive shafts is fine to use from the DQ200 but, will need different drive shafts for the right side. From what vw/audi car? Or does it need to be a custom drive shaft for that side? Also the shifter, can the DQ200 shifter work on the DQ250 gearbox? I understand about the flywheel, starter motor, DQ200 to DQ250 plug, coding and the oil cooler. If someone who has done this mod before, can you please get back to me. I would really appreciate it. Thank you

Found the problem! The window regulator motor had been replaced by the previous owner, along with the door control module, with a different version that didn't have the wiring output for the door handle lighting, gotta replace it with the original one

It might just be one of those things. After driving the Ibiza around for a week (one breath on the pedal and you fly through the windscreen), I almost pulled out on someone in the BMW as I midsjuged the brakes! Bear in mind too, that the response is no indication of stopping power. The Ibiza has something like 276mm discs and titchy calipers, while the BMW has 360mm discs with 4-pot calipers.

I'm 95% sure the front doors are the same. If you look up the part numbers, are they different?

For coding, remember you'll need to add the cornering light function too.

Not interested, but just wanted to say what a well-written advert this is! Best of luck with the sale.