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Hi everyone, New to the forum but I really need your help. I’m completely stuck on a Skoda Superb II 2.0 TDI (170Hk) DSG6 (manual ignition key, NO electronic steering lock/ELV) and I’m officially out of ideas. I really hope someone here can point me in the right direction. The Backstory: The car died while driving due to a failed alternator (battery drained completely). The car was driven home, parked, and the battery was disconnected. While replacing the alternator, a faulty xenon ballast was also replaced. A brand-new battery was installed. Upon reconnecting the battery terminals (there was a normal minor spark), the car's ignition went completely dead. Current Symptoms: No Terminal 15: Turning the key does absolutely nothing. The instrument cluster (dashboard) is 100% pitch black—not even the center MFD screen turns on or gives any warnings. Working Comfort Electrics: Central locking, interior lights, hazard lights, radio, and parking lights work perfectly. Manual Jumpering: If I manually jumper the Terminal 15 relay under the steering wheel (bridging pins 30 and 87), power is successfully sent to the cabin fuse box (verified 12V at dashboard fuse SC6, and steering column fuses SC2 and SC16). However, the cluster still remains completely black. Diagnostic Data (OBDeleven): When the Terminal 15 relay is manually jumpered, I can establish VCDS/OBDeleven communication with the car. BCM / Central Electrics Live Data: BCM successfully registers the physical key positions! Terminal 15 (input) and Terminal 50 (input) switch from OFF to ON when I turn the key. The Conflict: However, another live data channel shows Terminal 15 (via LIN) / Steering column switch information as "Not Installed". Fault Codes: The system is flooded with permanent communication codes that cannot be cleared: Terminal 15 implausible signal No signal/communication / Lost connection to: Instrument Cluster (J285) and Steering Column Module (J527). Network Status: Modules like the ECU, TCU, ABS, Gateway, and BCM are fully awake and communicating with the scanner, but they ALL complain about missing communication from specifically the Cluster and the Steering Column Module. What has been verified and tested so far: Fuses & Relays: Every single fuse (engine bay E-box, cabin fuse box, and the large SA-metal strip fuses in front of the engine e-box) has been continuity tested and confirmed OK and power-supplied. All "Relay 100" relays have been bench-tested and function perfectly. No pins in the relay carriers are backed out or damaged. Ignition Switch & Lock: The mechanical lock and the electrical ignition switch (D-switch) behind it have been tested and are fully operational. Steering Column Module (J527): The module's internal circuit board has been inspected and measured—it appears to be fully functional. (Note: The indicator stalk had some intermittent glitches months prior to this event, and the car occasionally threw a steering angle sensor G85 code before, but worked fine). Wiring & Grounding: Tested with a jumper cable directly from battery negative to the engine block with no change. The wiring harness near the engine/DPF/ABS is verified intact and has not been pinched or damaged during the alternator swap. B+ on the new alternator is connected correctly to the designated M8 post. LIN-bus: The LIN-bus wire from the alternator regulator is verified not shorted. The Dilemma: Since the BCM sees the key turning "ON" in live data, the hardware signal gets into the car. But the BCM refuses to ground the Terminal 15 relay automatically. Even when I bypass the relay manually, the Cluster and J527 refuse to boot up on the CAN-bus network, leaving them completely dead to the rest of the car. It feels like a digital lockout or a specific power line (Terminal 30/constant power) to just these two modules has died, but all fuses are intact. Has anyone encountered the BCM or Gateway completely dropping/disabling the LIN-bus to the steering column after a battery reconnect? Could a voltage spike during battery connection have locked the BCM logic, or am I missing a hidden fuse/fusible link somewhere? Any input or crazy ideas are highly appreciated. I am completely out of options! Thanks in advance.

But in 1000 km or 2 months extra urban level dropped about 0.2 litre. Meanwhile i remapped engine, but that did not increase coolant loss. It was on same place full one year after i bought then i replaced coolant, after few weeks, i was thinking maybe there is some air bubbles inside and it have to settle, but one year passed still same. I maku mixture about -25%C to avoid old pump leak. And around pump housing there is no any sign of coolant, fresh or dry. I saw that pump mechanism have problems with sealing and happenes slight leak on housing, between two aluminium parts on housing. It cant cause imidiattely coolant loss but anyway i am worried.

I just did the same work for the second time, But did not bolt off the ac compressor and did not take off the bumpers. I just raised the engine and took the radiator fan off. Same engine. 2h in total.

Don't worry, just teasing because of some comments above (not necessarily yours, I give it to you). 😉

Yes, on my '21 vRS I have the lights on Auto (on the lower switch), and it's just a matter of pulling back on the headlight stalk/switch to return them to normal operation

This one was purchased legitimately. I can’t speak for @Danoid s one though…

Did you mean "Great find by @danoid my dealer"? 😁

Cool White LED torch installed. Part number 3T0947417F is from a new Tiguan, multivan or T6 caravelle and is a straight replacement. It’s B E A utiful. The last yellow light now gone! Doesn’t come out great on the photos but I’m very pleased! Great find by @Danoid Before After

Back home this evening and white LED torch installed. It’s B E A utiful. The last yellow light now gone! Doesn’t come out great on the photos but I’m very pleased! Great find by @Danoid Before After

Back home this evening and white LED torch installed. It’s B E A utiful. The last yellow light now gone! Doesn’t come out great on the photos but I’m very pleased! Great find by @Danoid Before After

Nice, looks like a pretty straightforward job once you know how to get the vent out. Good to hear the cheaper replacement turned out to be decent quality too. I’ve used parts from brands like ridex before and always think it’s worth comparing options, but if the AliExpress one fits properly and works well, that’s a good result. Thanks for sharing the guide!

All the best with your project Takkis and welcome.

The radar sensor is part of the car's Front Assist system and, if fitted, Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC)

I’ll pm you

Moved to Octavia MkIV forum.

As @skomaz says it's a blocked drain tube. I had the same issue with Mrs Moley's Kamiq recently. I removed the blockage with a thin piece of wire. The drain hole is in the area marked with the yellow circle.

Used to be small packages up to 2KG only after Brexit, think they send larger stuff now by DHL, I've never had any problems, never ordered anything large like a rear spoiler etc though, drop them an email see what they say.

Hi all! I'm 30 something year old male from Finland. I got my first child about a year ago and the need for bigger car and isofix seat was imminent, so my trustworthy 2004 VW Bora 1.6 petrol had to go. I started looking for bigger car, as we needed to transport 2 adults, 1 baby and all their stuff for 2-4 weeks at a time because my job. I spotted 350 000 km 2014 Skoda Superb 2.0 TDI 4x4 Estate with good service history at an auction, and I thought it was superb mk3 rather than facelifted mk 2 so I bought it with 4000 €. It was about 3000 € cheaper than same mileage Superbs in Finland, so I was satisfied with my purchase. Soon I started to notice it had lots of small flaws: heated seats did not work, it did not warm in the wintertime, rear wheels did not engage at all and cabin is quite noisy. Other than that I like Superb a lot! There's room for take my whole family and all the stuff that we need while being 4 weeks away from home! I changed DSG thermostat and it seemed to fix the warm up issue. Then i changed Haldex oil and filter fixing the rear wheel drive. Now I have plans to restore Superbs old glory. At the time I'm planing to do follow: Fix heated seats (still no idea how..). Cover the cabin floor and doors with noise insulation mat. Remove all the rust and redo the body rust protection coating. Install MIB STD2 (I just received used unit from 2015 Skoda Yeti). Wish me luck. I hope to afford an electric vehicle in next 5 years or so, but until then I'll be fixing my Superb.

You have answered my question. Thanks

Recently just bought my second Skoda ... because the first one impressed me that much! 😎 2014 Superb Tour de France 4x4 2018 Kodiaq Edition 190PS DSG 4X4 (5 seater) Most of my cars have been VAG over the last few years but it seems that the balance of quality/price of Skoda has drawn me away from Audi and VW. I already have a couple of questions ... but I'll go find the correct place to ask 😉

What skomaz said. If you didn't notice a strong smell of petrol when you mopped it out then it's just water.

I actually have bits and pieces but not the entire thing - one of the few cars I don't have all the tech info, which bothers me ... I can swap with lots of other literature 😁 EDIT: I stand corrected, I have a "Workshop Manual Superb III 2015 ➤ General body repairs, interior Edition 05.2018" File D4B80536B1A which is a 163 page PDF, 19.2Mb I would love Engine/Suspension sections, if available ... 🥰

Are you sure it's external surface damage ? Modern windscreens are all tinted and the additives used to produce the tint seem to age and produce a light scattering effect (Oh for the days when simple clear glass was used - last time I had truly clear glass was a 2003 Astra). If this is the case then a new windscreen is the only answer. If, however, it is actually fine external damage then it MAY be possible to polish it out. I have successfully polished out a couple of fine scratches (caused by an incompetent valet at a dealer saleroom) on the windscreen of a Golf using a felt wheel and cerium oxide with a Dremel type tool so I know polishing CAN work in some cases. In my case these were only localised scratches - not a whole windscreen ! And even then it was a laborious process. If you're convinced it's external then it could be worth asking a decent bodyshop or a windscreen specialist if they are able to sort it with a cerium oxide buffing. Like you I am reluctant to go for a replacement windscreen unless it can't be avoided - I've had a couple occasions over the years when the muppets have damaged the paintwork or the new windscreen has leaked.

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I don’t understand why a supermini like the Fabia which has an official top speed in the vicinity of 200 km/h and weighs approximately 1,150 kg requires V-91XL rated tires. In my opinion, these are excessive specifications who inevitably call for a reinforced carcass and rubber compound, resulting in a "stiffer" tire. An 88-H rating tire would be technically more logical and appropriate for a supermini hatchback. After all, the same car when equipped with 15-inch wheels in its base trim levels, comes with 88-H rated tires. I believe that the V-91XL specification, combined with the excessively high recommended tire pressure, leads to a less comfortable ride on poor-quality roads than the car is otherwise capable of delivering. Skoda could at least allow for an alternative speed/load rating for those who prioritize comfort. However, for the sake of standardization and economies of scale, they likely opted for a single specification for all 16-inch wheels—one that also covers other, heavier or more powerful models.