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Can anyone help with the above. Really need to turn down the warning level when reversing and a pedestrian or similar is close to the car. It is so loud. Have tried turning down the volume control for radio etc when it activates as someone suggested. But this made no difference. Was supposed to remember this level next time round. It doesn`t Can turn down front and rear parking sensor warning but that didn`t help. Kodiaq SEL `75 plate.

Has this engine been tested for cylinder compressions?

No experience with Waze but use Google Maps with my 2013 Columbus and suspect works the same in that the phone audio from the app only comes through to the car speakers if Columbus is set to play Bluetooth media. Works for me as tend to listen to audio books on long drives so the Google Maps announcements (and speed camera warnings from Speed Camera Alert app) come though and interrupt in audio book playback.

many thanks @Carlston

An update on this oil leak/boost issue. I went to a new garage which had been recommended to me. Hoping for an understanding expert who might help me out. I was wrong, and left the place super-depressed! As soon as I arrived, it was a total downer. One of those garages more akin to a showroom, pristine floor and very little actual work going on. The guy complained about my drivers' seat (crumbs and whatnot) and went and got a seat cover for himself. Then he expressed his disgust at the quality of the rocker gasket install done by another mechanic. 40 minutes later he'd done a VCDS and then gave me a load of vague possibilities,; basically he didn't want the job, let's leave it at that. His 'report' suggested the following- -turbo electrovalves slow and worn ( I assume he means the actuator on the wastegate) oil leaks on the turbo in/out pipes -SAI valve and orifices blocked -Lambda sensor 1 faulty heater -air leaks causing the evap system to malfunction rear main seal leaks oil intake manifold gasket brittle causing boost leak and oil leak The printout identified P0411, P1602, P0507, P0135. All these faults point towards doing the SAI delete and Eap system delete; so that's my plan. He quoted £2000 which might have been to scare me off (and probably assuming the turbo is finished). Whichever way, he's not my guy. I am so upset; I knew the car is in a mess, but nothing that can't be addressed. In fact, if his attitude had been different I would have said 'yes' there and then (even though that's money I don't have!). So I'm gonna do the deletes myself and fit an OCC. If I get that far, I'll know whether the wastegate actuator can be changed or not, and should be getting better at this stuff by then. That'll mean no car for a bit . No guarantee it's going to solve anything but you have to address these issues one by one. Before any of this though, I just found my oil sump plug is spinning!! It's not leaking but I gotta get it out and fit an oversize 'piggyback' bolt first, so I can change the oil! Thanks for reading - had to get this off my chest

My wing mirror has one out and no warning. Did have a warning a while back and it was corrosion in number plate lights. All lights were fine and working but the corrosion was enough to trigger bulb light. When I cleaned it the bulb was slightly brighter. Alasdair

That suggests it isn't a "glitch". Given the circumstances that you are "abroad", i think you should probably listen to the mechanic with the diagnostic tool. Your car must be at least ten year old so if this is the first injector that's not bad. What mileage has it done

Yes, the 3.5 was basically a facelift with a few goodies thrown in. The infotainment is a big improvement IMO. The split lights divide opinion, but I have grown to like them. They're a bit 2010 Mercedes E-class, but otherwise unusually distinctive, which I like.

But you don't have a 2.0...

Thanks. It happened whilst driving down a long dirt track, with no road signs or road markings etc. So that kind of makes sense. I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks once again.

Give teh windscreen in front of the camera a clean first.

Hi from CZ. I managed to buy 65/100

Thank you Pete! I´ll try find the right part and let you all know how I get on.

How did you fix this. Where can we buy the panel. Because i am facing the same issue as well

Hi all, Ran the car through a wash earlier today (against better judgement, self service was broken, hose pipe ban and dirty af) and immediately got the yellow exterior bulb warning light on the dash. I've done a walkaround and everything seems to be functioning. Headlights, high/low beams, DRLs, fogs, reversing, and number plate lights are all coming on. There was some water on the headlight housing, but it's sealed and the rubber covers were dry. I haven't been able to check the brake lights properly yet as I don't have a second person but expect they are fine. The indicators are all working, but looking closely at the left wing mirror, it looks like maybe one of the LEDs in the strip might be out? It's very bright outside today, so it is honestly quite hard to tell for certain. My question is: would a single dead LED in that sealed wing mirror unit be enough to trigger the dash warning due to a resistance drop? Or is it more likely just water ingress somewhere else from the pressure washer bridging a connection that will clear up once it dries out? Any thoughts appreciated. Cheers.

Just noticed on the parts diagrams that the Koyo system shows sealing washers for this part that are described as 16mm, TRW system shows ones with 14mm seals. So your system is LHD SMI Koyo, and your expansion hose part number is part number 6Q1 423 893 M (dropped May 2023, superseded to 6Q1 423 893H). Note for UK/RHD car owners. Part numbers for RHD systems are different to what's shown above. Third character is 2 instead of 1, and suffixes will differ too. All UK/RHD systems are TRW as far as I know.

I had this symbol appear yesterday a couple of times and searched the manual plus web but can't find anything about it. Can anybody help please. TIA

seguo

Just recently changed the front brakes on my superb, and noticed that both the inner and outer pads had circles on them showing they had been in contact with the brake cylinder. Also shows paint from when callipers were painted so must have been in the wrong position when that was done. someone had put the outer in the inner position and vice versa. And then at some point they had been swapped round and installed correctly. Easy to do on the left if you don’t read the instructions so I thought. What’s more confusing is on the right side it was the same. This side has the wear indicator and the wire isn’t long enough to install on the wrong side. So is this a mark from the cylinder or something else. 🤔 I wonder if part worn brake pads being put into different position might be what created the brake wobble?!

Most likely outbound trip was against the wind and the return journey was with the wind. That, plus variations in traffic and driving style could easily account for your mgg difference. Different fuel would only have a very minor impact, if any at all.

Hello, greetings from the Czech Republic. I managed to buy a 65/100 originally from GB. Octavia is in good hands, it will gradually improve. I use google translate, so hopefully everything is understandable.

Yes, he tried to clear it. But after a restart and it came back up.

So, I got this from ODBEleven. No modifications were done, as far as I know. Does anybody have experience with such error? OBDeleven data log Date: 2026-08-09 07:28 VIN: XXX Car: Skoda Superb Year: 2023 Body type: Estate Engine: DTSB Mileage: 65495 KM --------------------------------------------------------------- 75 Telematics System description: OCUGen3High Software number: 5WA035284H Software version: 0311 Hardware number: 5WA035284B Hardware version: H22 Serial number: 0000000301VISM270750 ODX name: EV_OCUGen3High ODX version: 003021 Long coding: 034820101969A8819005460161052E07 Trouble codes: U112100 - Data bus missing message Intermittent Date: 2026-08-08 14:11:37 Mileage: 65492 km Priority: 6 Malfunction frequency counter: 3 Unlearning counter: 40 Time Indication: 00 Voltage terminal 30: 12.4 V

There were two different systems made by different manufacturers. You need the right parts according to which system you have. The only difference in the part numbers is the suffix letter, which is important. You have written only the base part number. I will message you asking for your VIN, which will allow me to look up which system you have, and so which is the correct, full part number.

Just a coincidence. I get similar mpg on supermarket fuel.