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I see I dont have obd eleven I want activate on VCDS

Dont suppose theres an auto power off setting or something similar in radio. The radio may have reset to default if battery was disconnected so isnt rebooting after ignition? Alasdair

I need this doing and have been quoted £1600 by a local indy specialist.... do you mind sharing details of your garage?

I would not have specified DCC, but it came on the dealer's demonstrator that I ended up buying. I find it quite useful and versatile.

It's not straightforward at all, Fabia block had been modified quite substantialy to fit the larger crankshaft. From my memory, a centimeter or so has to be taken off the counterweights to fit into 1.3 block, the axial bearing is on a different main bearing, the timing chain sprocket is different and flywheel has 6 holes instead of 4.

Thanks for the info, I guess I will have to 'suck it and see'. Worst case I suppose I could create an alternative fixing arrangement for the cover with clips or screws but will need to see it on the ground after the pads have gone in. I've ordered the pads although despite showing stock on ebay he has advised that none are available and they are 'In manufacture'. I'm not desperate but may have to look elsewhere at some point if there is no sign of dispatch.

When we collected and drove our new Kodiaq PHEV home the other day we noted that the wife's phone case stopped her phone from sitting flush in against the surface in the wireless charger, but she could not be bothered to remove it from the case to see if the charging would improve from the apparent very slow rate. The blurb for our car says that the wireless chargers are cooled. Will probably experiment with all that when we go on a long trip in just over a week.

I can't find any help about enabling via SD GEM mode. Any help about that?

DCC is amazing if u ask me. It controls both compression and rebound of the shocks, electronically. Multiple levels of shock control - Comfort, Normal & Sport. With the DCC Slider Mod, this increases to 15 levels of shock control. In addition, DCC is also linked to Steering, Braking and Headlights. Mine is still behaving after almost 10 yrs now, despite being lowered for 7+ yrs.

Ive never had DCC, on my second superb and Quite happy with it without. A nice to have from my perspective but I dont know any different! Costs wise its much cheaper to replace struts for standard suspension if anything fails.

I wondered if maybe there was a noise (electrical) suppression component missing from this starter. Can buy clip on ferrite cable filters very cheaply, might be worth trying on radio power wiring, if there's space.

Hi everyone, Can I fit the 78 mm stroke crankshaft from a 1.4 8V MPI (Fabia/Felicia) into a Skoda Favorit 1.3 block? If it is possible, how straightforward is the swap and what are the main things I need to watch out for (block clearance, conrods/pistons, flywheel/clutch fitment, etc.)? Thanks in advance!

Link to download RNS510-5238A-josi-VIM-Testmode-60-35-5 sent in PM

Do you have 'Optimised Battery Use' enabled? This helps maintain the 12V by topping up from HV battery when required.

Su8perb owner here but its much the same: 2- Seems to be a known bug. Watch out for it randomly changing settings. Mine occasionally turns of the autohold brakes. 3 - I suspect these are fromn the "Traffication" system. Lookm in the apps on the car to find the Trafffication app an turn off the alerts there. 5 - If I'm using navigation from Carplay for any time I always use a cable for charging. If nothing wlse the phone gets really hot when navigating and wireless charging which doesnt do the overal battery life any good.

Will follow your tip when i get the car back from the mechanic \m/. Thank you D.FYLAKTOS

Hey there Chaps, I am getting the same issue . Skoda Superb Elegance 2012 plate. "Software Download- Source Activated, Searching for SWL Image" Would it be possible to send over the software link so I can burn it onto a CD. Many thanks (sorry re posted with photo and tags for the guys). @pab567 @varooom

As the radio worked before it must be something else. Reckon it may be the starter drawing more current as its new. Do the headlights blower etc switch off when cranking. Alasdair

Just delivered my Karoq to Barlows at Crewe, and picked up a manual Fabia Monte Carlo courtesy car. No charge for this, but warned I would have to pay an excess of £250 if I crashed it! It's quite a sporty little thing, but having to change gears on roundabouts, and use a handbrake again, remind me of what I enjoy about my Karoq!!

To reduce noise from ratling, on that Striker loop (U-bar) which looks like the Greek letter Π i have added a layer of tape (Cloth of Fabric as they say it, not common electrical tape). Not too much to create problems in closing,keeps the hood more steady.

Sent a PM

The advice from Binx is good - easiest/cheapest! I would actually add, depending on your current/expected workload, to start something you are sure can finish in one go ... or at least with the least amount of distractions! ☠️ PS: have not forgot about the OBD11, just can't find it yet ☹️

Both of those codes point at the same part. In VCDS terms P1103 is 17511, "Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S1: Performance too Low", and Ross-Tech's fix for it is to check the heater of the oxygen sensor before the cat. P0130 is 16514, "Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1: Malfunction in Circuit", and the cause Ross-Tech list for that one is the same thing, the Bank 1 Sensor 1 heater. The sensor has to be hot to give a proper signal, so a heater that isn't working would fit what you're seeing: a reading stuck very low at idle, jumping about, and the heater switching on and off. If the ECU believes the mixture is lean it will add fuel, so it could be part of the high idle consumption too. What I'd check, in this order: 1. The plug for the front (pre-cat) sensor. Unplug it and look for green or burnt pins and a cracked housing, and check the wiring along the exhaust for melted insulation. 2. The heater itself. With the plug off, measure resistance across the heater pins on the sensor side (check a wiring diagram for your engine code, as pinouts vary). No reading at all means the heater is open circuit and the sensor needs replacing. 3. The heater supply on the loom side, including its fuse. 4. Your amp wire. As it all started around the time you ran the cable through the grommet, have a look there for anything nicked, but I'd still start at the sensor plug. If the heater is open, a new sensor is the fix. Clear the codes afterwards and see whether the idle and the cold stumble settle before you chase anything else.

Thanks!