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Hi, Yes I did, it the 1.9d and the pump on it is the Lucas 028 130 081c.

If staight of Hormuz opened next week oil prices would fall like a stone. We gave other producing areas increasing their output, African producers, Canada, USA, Venezuela etc. Calgary in Canada felt like was in Dallas ! When prices fall to $65 a barrel or less produces like US shale just stop producing and wait months or years until price bounces back above $65 or so. North Sea would act the same and hence BP, Shell no longer interested in North Sea extraction, too price sensitive when on land produces can sell at $20 a barrel and still make a profit. UK fortunate to have the best areas for wind turbines and add to that the tidal potential oil extraction just looks a bad investment due to the inherent costs of landing North Sea oil. Better to step up investments in renewables and in conjuction with nuclear and the interconnectors with those producing ultra cheap electricity that is a more secure future the very high cost North Sea oil and buying fuel from despots. As I write the nuclear, solar snd wind is so abundant in the UK the UK price of electricity is dropping from 4p per KWh to 1.5 p per KWh in the next two hours.

Just to pay back the forum for great advice and info over the years, my story is that as my service advised I had a broken top of rear spring (standard suspension 1.4TSI Estate SE technology 10 years old), with tight budget I decided to have a go myself (keen DIYer in other areas) using this forum and you tube videos (like Hey Roman). Watch for all the tools needed like long sockets or 18mm keys sockets/ spanners as they sometimes are not in standard sets. As there was some oil on shock absorber, I decided to change both springs and shock absorbers, together with spring mounting/ spring caps (rubber bits on top and bottom of spring) and new shock absorber top mounts and bump stop kit. Post here about jacking points was very helpful. I went for KYB parts from Autodoc as had difficulty to find spring exactly as my OEM code (not sure if because I have OEM towing kit). As some said the bolts are stretch type so I just bought new one (3 per side - wheel hub, shock absorber and antiroll bar) as Skoda manual advises additional degrees of rotation (like 180deg for some) after specific torque applied. Overall it went fairly smooth, the only real struggle I had to lift the lower arm with car jack after new spring in (proper car jack, not skoda one as as you lift the arm, the skoda jack will tilt risking it will slip in arm rebounding due to new spring - dangerous) to fix the first bolt at wheel hub. The lower arm flexes so I had to do one side of arm and than reposition to do the other. Also had a bit of work on one anti-roll bar bolt but using WD40 penetrant 30min before starting helped with rusty bolts. As Skoda manual says all the bolts should be torqued in wheel loaded position so remember to measure it (with full tank, spare wheel, repair kit) before start. I bought the new bolts/ nuts from Skoda as could not get it sorted quickly online. I used 2 inch pipe as extra handle on my wrench to do the extra 180deg nut turn after 70Nm torque on some bolts - without this extra lever would not be able to turn it. Top mounts came with the bolts already. One strange thing was that after lowering the car the ride height (on both sides) was higher than the wheel loaded position ( I started to worry something went wrong although all looked ok mechanically) but after driving from driveway to the road, all went back to the correct wheel loaded dimensions. Ufff. Another lesson learned - one original VAG shock absorber was shot (not rebounding at all, although car passing MOT and service), shock absorber on other side changed few years ago by what I though good family garage was GS3328R so AFAIK looking online not suitable for Superb (for Golf being lighter). Also inside one of the top mount had a lot of thick white deposit which went powdery once disturbed (aluminium corrosion?) so was happy I bought new mounts. Other thing is I saw that the steel suspension elements on the rear were fairly corroded so I took the bite and cleaned all as far as I could (took me 1.5 days under the car, with multi-tool scraper, hammer, steel brush, brush on multi-drill, hand scraper etc.) In many places the corrosion was a 0.5/1.0mm layer falling off in patches after hammer treatment ) and repainted with rust converter 2 times, now need to do the finish.

Having spent my whole working life in software development and maintenance, version control and ensuring fixes are applied first to the earliest version in use and then applied to each subsequent version in turn is a complex process that requires proper management.

It sounds to me that the ECU is commanding too high closed-throttle revs when engine is up to temperature, you need to have the vehicle scanned for any DTCs (fault codes) recorded. It could be due to a faulty sensor.

very disappointed to see the INA kits uses a Gates tensioner

@thamestrader My Amundsen hardware is H22, and software 0276! But my dealer told me at the last service that there were no updates required. You could well be right that Skoda have forgotten about all the cars with early software levels as I also have problems with the map updates. Despite paying for the automatic map updates, the the map date is back in 2024 (although to be honest they seem accurate as I drive around.)

Cheers Pete. What do you mean "fasteners that are taken into the plastic region"?

aircon off, thanks for your quick reply

All along bad decisions by the Westminster Government and no Sovereign Wealth Fund and using moneys to break the unions (Coal mining etc.) Supposedly no Oil & Gas left and no way could Scotland be Independent. Licences change hands but the UK is not buying them back or buying them out. It is like Hospital Car parks that were leased to companies on very long leases and had to be bought back at great cost to the general public or tax payers. Sometimes for many millions.

yes sorry Model Variant Rapid Description Rapid Spaceback SE Tech TDI Primary Colour Red Fuel Type DIESEL Transmission Manual 5 Gears Drive type 4x2 Engine 1598 cc Body Style Hatchback Year Manufacture 2015 Euro Status 6b

Can you elaborate at all. What happens/ doesn't happen for e.g.

KYB KSC4260 and KSC4261 fitted. Need to get setup but they were a decent fit. Having done some research as they are the same spec as JRRS' Delphi suggestion, they are for Audi TT Mk3 (FV3/FVP). So you lose 6mm of track each side rather than 14mm with the Golf parts. The seems to equate to a little under 0.5 degree positive camber according to Google. While Google/Gemini is telling me this using pretty catastrophic language, I can still physically see negative camber on both fronts. I'll keep this and tyre-wear under observation though and see what the 4wa results come up with. Ironically, Gemini also suggests the Delphi ones that JRRS referred to, saying that, because they are for the Passat B8, they are wider as meant for the larger MQB-B platform cars. However, when I search for them specifically, they are suggested as a part for...the Audi TT Mk3. And no-one gives the bush centre-line to bush centre-line width measurement to confirm whether they're better or worse (even Delphi website). And if I search by model for Passat B8 (even the 280 equivalent Saloon AWD) you just get the black steel ones back at square one. And if I challenge Gemini, it admits that both parts are for the Audi TT Mk3 and that there is confusion sourcing this thread as a reference lol. For now, the TT Mk3 ones are on, feel pretty solid and just waiting for the final work to be done to get the ARB on and the alignment done. @MarioVrs how does yours feel now?

Agreed but it still makes zero sense at the current time given all the other stuff going on and with many countries and Europe putting plans in place for possible acts of aggression on the horizon. Each of the decisions taken if looked at in isolation, look defencible. Now piece together those and see the negative effect if a bad player wanted to destabilise a country especially an island solely reliant on importing vital requirements?

Tailgate

Welcome. Best say what engine you have as we can not just guess. Is it a manual gearbox? With a TSI normal is maybe 1,100 rpm on start up and dropping to 800 or so rpm after 40-60 seconds. Is the AC on or off?

hi Everyone i have just recently bought the Skoda rapid estate which seems to have come with a few problems, one being when i start the car it idles a 800 rpm then when it gets warm it it get to 1000, and in 1,2,3,4 gear it quite normal then in filth it goes along on its own at what seems to be 38 mph as thought cruise control is on has anyone experienced this thank you in anticipation

Got the electric actuator off (luckily the valve in the exhaust isn't seized as it's in the middle of a long exhaust section so would be near impossible to get to) Arm on actuator doesn't move at all Watched some videos of them and it seems I should be able to move it by hand ,could someone confirm this ? Thanks

Thanks for the info, Battery was changed about 1 month ago. I have cleaned around the connection and used the car yesterday with no problems, as you say could be just a electrical gremlin. If I get it again I will attempt to unplug it to check contacts.. Thanks for your help

The Crown estate Scotland & Crown Estate England, Wales & Northern Ireland. So not your's or mine. So the leases / licences need to expire. But the Rigs, pipes and other infrastructure is owned by others on that Crown Estate Seabed. The UK Tax Payers are paying companies to decommission rigs etc. ................ I know this stuff without the need of internet searches and have since 1972 when my dad started working for Bristow & family went offshore, then school mates, and i worked for a business doing offshore fabrication. It is pretty much a topic that comes up in the North East of Scotland all the time since it is a major employer in the North East.

Early MK4 I posted in the wrong section! Can it be moved ?

2014 - so that would make it a late mk 2 or early mk 3, not a mk 4?

It depends on if they are made to oe standard or not and what factory they came from. Have had a few chinese parts over the years and some were excellent copies while others very poor. Problem is telling which is good or not as they generally look ok. Cylinder head for old toyota lucida which was excellent and a fraction of cost of toyota. Replaced a honda GX200 engine with a Loncin and they are identical. Even honda parts fit and have had no trouble. Got chinese carb for chainsaw and wouldnt run due to one of the fuel ways not been drilled out. Reckon with a dif I would be looking at second hand or at least a reputable supplier that you have some come back if it fails.

On the pump, look for a wire going into what looks like the middle of a 17mm? Bolthead. Did you find out if it was a D or SDI, or have you got the reg and I'll look it up?

I was aware that it is not operated by the UK. However, the fact still exists that the UK issues the licences to drill and extract the oil. So how is that possible that we issue licenses and collect tax on it unless we have a legal claim on it?