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Hi All Good news, bonnet open after about 15 minutes of trying. Not quite sure what solved the problem. After opening the internal bonnet release half a dozen times & closing the bonnet, it appeared that there was more movement in the external bonnet release lever. I continued to manipulate the lever under the bonnet, each time gaining slightly more movement which enabled me to open the bonnet. The problem appeared to be there is only just enough travel of the bonnet catch to free the retaining hook. I greased up the mechanism hopefully preventing the same problem in the future. I hope this makes sense. Thanks to all concerned.

Every one knew Ferrari were at it last year, when the FIA issued a 'clarification' to the rules at the US GP, suddenly the prancing horse became a limping donkey.

Got a photo from my cctv because I’m lazy... Excuse the dirty arse

Go into measuring blocks under the Heating & AC controller in VCDS & it will show you the pressure in the high side of the system, if it has some then a recharge will probably get it up & running, if none then there will have been a leak. Beware, I think that VCDS shows absolute & not guage pressure (hopefully someone will confirm) so 1bar would be zero pressure. - Confirmed by Rosstech link. I have just been out checking mine, seems like the slow leak I had has healed up or I screwed up on the initial charge and the 2 subseqent recharges. Buying an AC manifold test set (£30ish) is a good investment and will tell you a lot of whats going on internally, VCDS will tell you lots of whats going on extarnally, temperatures, flap positions, shut off codes, PWM current delivered to N280 modulating valve etc, with both you have the full picture, some study needed regarding high & low side pressures, ambient temps etc. https://forums.ross-tech.com/showthread.php?633-Tis%92-the-HVAC-Season

Really? Pole last year. 10th & 11th in Q2, and slower than their last year's qually time in Q3. Scandalous and so obvious they were indeed cheating. The FIA look like chumps too for not being able to completely prove that Ferrari cheated.

I bought a Mahle oil filter from Amazon ("dispatched and sold by Amazon") and to my surprise its says "Made in PRC". It's packaged and looks the most premium oil filter I've ever purchased, but some mental block is preventing me from fitting it (perhaps irrationally). I might return it and purchase the same one from Opie Oils and see what arrives. If it comes back the same thing I'll just fit it and accept this new normality. But I see a lot of members are generally very particular about the parts they fit on their much more premium cars than mine, in that case maybe avoid Mahle for oil filters.

I think they appeared on order books April/May 2017, first deliveries in July but the bulk of the early deliveries were happening Aug/Sept I think. My car was registered July 26th.

My 245 was the 1st customer order on the road in late August 2017, as value seems to be your main motivator, waiting WON'T put you in a worse position & will more likely than not put you in a better position.

OK my take things thrown up here 1. The fl led headlights are by far, a lot better than the pfl xenons 2. Unless you're gonna drive on the edge of the cars limits you never know you needed the VAQ Diff 3. The electric seats have much finer lumbar adjustments than the manual seats 4. Both the 17/67 plate 245 & the 230 don't have a GPF 5. Using finance deals to your advantage is only smart if you're comfortable with them. 6. Some of the fl230 wing mirrors don't fold on locking (cancelled my order over that) 7. You're gonna have to travel if you want to get a car In short, if you wait till September more 245's will be on the market, hopefully reducing the value of the 230's. Reading between the lines, value seems to be of more importance to you so this maybe the best bit of advice you've had

Just to let you know, unfortunately this won’t work. The standard mirror motors on the Octy have 3 pins in them, one for left/right, one for up/down and one for ground. No memory function. To make this work you need the 7 pin motor with directional control memory. I am building one now for someone and I have one in my car. This is the only way to get this to work as the standard hardware isn’t there for it on these cars. It’ll dip just with coding but it has no way to be set or remember the previous position. 7 pin motors aren’t expensive and I can provide a WD and pin layout.

55l according to the manual in my car.👍

According to the November 2019 owner's manual, the fuel capacity for vehicles with front wheel drive is about 50 litres, and for vehicles with four-wheel drive about 55 litres, with about 6 litres as reserve. Chris

Many thanks to all who replied to offer their opinions and experience. I read them all and, as a new poster, now appreciate this BRISKODA forum's deep knowledge. On reflection, I shall save my money and not do this early oil/filter change. The Skoda 2-year fixed price service plan will be used and I shall drive the car sensibly and not stressed/trashed in the first few months. After two weeks of ownership, I have only covered 290 miles. Thanks again for all your comments. Clive

Fitted the new sensor earlier today - it was the 2-terminal type. Not a hot day today and it started and re-started fine afterwards. My wife drove it later too on a routine journey and without any prompt said the car feels smoother. The tickover is more even, noticeable at the first start-up after fitting, and it feels more responsive generally to drive. Filled it up with fuel to see if the MPG improves in the days ahead, as it may well have been running generally richer than it should. Main fault was the poor restart on hot days so may not get a proper check on this happening for a while. Well, it is summer

The SKODA Mk3 maintenance manual is here and very clear: https://www.dropbox.com/s/zh8n0y4sz6jsxcd/Maintenance.pdf?dl=0 See page 16/17 for 1.2/1,4 Tsi, and page 24/5 for diesel cambelt maintenance schedule. Not judging whether it's right or wrong Scot5, but do you have any documentation from Skoda saying otherwise? It's been done to death several times already... For the 1.2/14 TSI, the VW EA211 engine ' service training manual' is here: https://procarmanuals.com/vag-ssp-511-new-ea211-petrol-engine-family/ Page 13 actually says the camshaft toothed belt is 'maintenance free'.

Yes, it was 'fuel flow'. Ferrari allegedly somehow 'stored' fuel after the flow meter to use more fuel when required. RB tried it on in the first year of the hybrids when they realised that the Renault engine was under powered when used legally.

@Paul52 Is it a 2013 1.2 TSI with a timing chain that you have, (so the updated chain and tensioner) and not a nengine with a cam belt?

these tailpipes look very good! certainly better than 272/280 stock ones...

I thought the oil burning was outlawed the year before. Ferrari last year were cheating the fuel flow rules - as cleverly as Honda got round the boost limits in 86/87.

VCDS will let you look at what it thinks the gas pressure is, it might just be short of charge and need recharged, or it might have suffered stone damage to the condenser, or worse the evaporator. Do you have mobile car AC systems operators near you, one of them might be your best chance to get it diagnosed and recharged, or even repaired.

Rest assured, you’re not the only one! Maybe the belts degrade more rapidly in the vicinity of English, Welsh, Scottish or N Irish accents 😂

Ha. Yeah, I would imagine over the last few months a lot of cars have been suffering with that. I've been letting the girlfriend drive my Octavia to the hospital to give it a good run a few times a week for this reason / cycling the petrol though it!

Just switched to 2 channel input and dropped the rears by 3db, massive difference. What were Skoda thinking with the rears in standard setup? I've dumped my old config done with the RTA/mic and gone with trying to do it by ear using a lot of different music. It's only in the car that I am ok with the "loudness wars" as some of the older recordings need a lot more effort to sound good. The actual EQ looks pretty awful visually but at least it sounds better! I recently got new tyres which has dropped ambient noise significantly, next up is doing the boot with MLV (already has silentcoat and closed cell foam on top). Doors is on the list as well..

Mapper got back to me today with some good info id thought i would share with you all...please see below. I went over every hose clamp this morning and they are all secure so i can only put it down to the turbo being the root cause here. Hi Scott, Boost you are peaking at 1.1 bar and this drops to 0.9 bar. This is with the Duty cycle of the N75 valve at 90-95% across the RPM range. With this sort of duty, a normal K03S would boost well over 1.5 bar initially. Boost is controlled by the ECU by varying the duty cycle. 95% is the most it can run. AFR is at 11.8:1 on boost. All is good here. You are down on boost. Either you are not making the boost, or you are making it and losing it. If you are making it and losing it then that's a leak. If you are not making it then these are the possible causes: 1. Turbo design. The turbo design is not working and isn't allowing it to make boost, or the boost it does make is ineffective. Obviously you can rule this out on a stock turbo but not on a hybrid which had not been tested. 2. Blockage. An exhaust or intake blockage stopping air flow. 2. Damaged turbo, one or both of the wheels may be damaged, the exhaust housing maybe cracked or not sealing in some way. 3. Wastegate not sealing. This can be from the wastegate penny not seating, being damaged, or it could be the actuator is damaged or very soft not pressing the penny properly. I have seen a lot of turbos that have had wastegates not sealing properly. 4. Too much boost getting to the actuator. The N75 works by stopping the actuator seeing boost. The higher the duty cycle, the less boost the N75 allows to get to the actuator, and so it opens the wastegate less and you run more boost. If the N75 doesn't stop boost getting to the actuator you will run less boost. This has it's own sub causes: 4a Faulty N75 valve - however boost is changing with respect to duty cycle so this suggests the valve itself is ok. 4b - Boost/Vac pipes which connect between the N75 and the turbo, intake and actuator are not sealing/leaking/damaged. With the turbo having an unknown history and having play in it, this is what I would be looking at. Rick

shere-khan by geof worrall, on Flickr down in the jungle swinging on a rope...along came a tiger...no joke ranthambore tiger reserve...india...this one is stalking sika deer right across our path...we are in an open jeep we stop i tell the driver...keep the engine running,walla he says t'kai sahib

@plantpowered Thanks for the feedback and sharing your own experience. The thing is... That I didn’t even know this kind of kid seats exists. If I did, I would probably had seriously considered this option. Currently I only have one year left, before I can resale one of the 3 Recaro Baby seats, since the older will be soon able to seat in regular car seat. Thus... too late. Additionally, I don’t know what about UK, but in France, I guess people would definitely be skeptical, since no one know about this type of this 3 seater...

In America and Canada, there is a recall for this micro switch problem , why wont Skoda sort it for free over here, they have made an updated version that can be got for around £40 depending on the age of the car

I describe the process here, although don't show it ... I just notice I say A pillar...but it is B You are not going to set the Air Bag off, its up in the headliner not in the Pillar. Here's Steve's pic of where to stuff foam first...notice it really is a Trumped Bell...super silly not to block this in the factory. The Superb III Sills are big and really resonant too. Soaking up all sorts of outside noise and channeling it into the cabin through this area. Rap them with your knuckle along their length, its quite surprising how thin and undamped this metal is. Start reading here

B pillar is a big one for the gains, and very easy to do. Don't worry about the airbag at all. Prise out the 'Airbag' plastic clip, remove the screw. Then just pull out from the bottom edge of the top trim. It will unclip, then the top of the trim then will slide down and out. Then unclip bottom trim. From there add your deadening, paying particular attention to fill the cavity down at the bottom of the B pillar and the cill. This really is probably the easiest and most beneficial upgrade.

Thought I’d chuck up a hello here, bought my 2016 Red VRS 230 a month ago, I’ve come from Golf R ownership and needed to practicality! Love the car so far. This month it’s had resonator delete, H&R springs along with 20mm rear and 15mm front spacers.

The “boxes” are part of the parallel-parking assistance. The car won’t steer itself, as it would with the full version of parking assistance, but the screen will show YOU when and which way to turn. I tried it once, when the car was new. Yes, it works, but it seems more faff than making up my own mind!

My experience so far: Bridgestone S001 - noisiest Michelin PS4 - quieter GY Assy 3 - quietest

That sounds like the parallel parking view. Top button, reversing into space view Second button, parallel parking view. Third , button, towbar view. Fourth button, wide angle view for reversing out a space.

This is the way cars should be modded - subtle and classy! OEM+ Did you get the rear Skoda and Superb badges from Superskoda? I have a Meteor grey Sportline with the black front badge and want to get rid of the chrome badges on the rear. I noticed they are now selling both the Skoda badge and now the Superb badge in black though I worry they are different finishes.

Picked up a 5D4 yesterday. Found a manifold to use as a model and had a quick go..

Nice cleaning job ! 👍 Interesting solution this "multimac 3 seater" product. I didn't k now such a thing exist. Is this approved all over the world (e.g. TÜV certified)? However, awfully expensive. I have currently in my Estate version 3 Recaro baby seats on the back seats: 1 Young sport model + 2 Milano ones. Costed me around 600 € (compared to ~1300£ for the Multimac 😮).

Had it valeted yesterday including engine bay. Would normally do it myself but struggling to find the time lately. Today, trip to Birmingham to get our Multimac 3 seater child seat installed in preparation for baby #3. Amazing product that allows you to get 3 kids across the middle of the car, which is normally pretty difficult due to the size of kids car seats (there's also a 4 seater version). Also on the round trip journey, I achieved 41.4 avg mpg round trip (6.82l/100km). Not bad for a thirsty 2L (220ps sportline).

Depends which country. I believe most say inspect and the U.K. says otherwise. guess it’s down to the importer.

Does the external bonnet catch have a cable? I'm thinking the OP is referring to the catch that you access when the bonnet has popped up?

All I know is that I can ease off the accelerator and the car will glide more or less to a complete stop — pretty much instantly if using ‘B’ mode: the most aggressive of the four settings and the only one that makes the brake lights come on. When using modes 1–3 carefully, I find it an excellent way of deterring tailgaters, as they soon back off when they’re suddenly closer than they thought. 😊

Sorry very late getting back yea it was the fuses next to the battery good call. Took the right ones out forget the numbers now think it was the one very top left cleaned I up and voila. Bit of a shock in the morning when 12 light bulbs are sending fault signals 🧐😁

I did the first one at 10k... Personally, I would ask this question, which is what would you rather have buying second hand: - 1 change at 1000 miles and the next at 19,000 miles - 1 change at circa 10000 miles and the next at 20,000 miles a year later? As you're on the two year fixed servicing, I would suggest just wait for the 10,000/1 year service. If that's not where you want to go, perhaps consider if it's worth running the car for 3 months or say 5000/6000 miles and then changing it then. Don't forget that modern manufacturing leaves much less debris and I believe the engines are usually bench run anyway, before being drained, fitted and correctly filled.

Yeah it is, but you need SmartLink to get AA on the radio screen and unlike AA, CarPlay on iPhone isn’t native on the screen at all, you need a radio for it. One thing I wish they would change so if you have a single din radio or older car you can have CarPlay on the phone screen!!!

so thought I'd update. really nice premises very clean and professional, free Coffee/Tea, water, TV and even an xbox to keep you busy while waiting , Will is a thoroughly nice dude and spent the time to explain what he was doing and what effect that has on the car and spent a good 2.5 hours on the car getting it to where he was happy utilising multiple dyno runs ( print out shows 7 runs in total) ended up with 228bhp and 431nm. I have since driven around 250 miles an I can honesty say he's done a great job! the curve is super smooth and the pull is very linear the car drives really nice now much better than before , power when requested is almost instant, there's no hesitation, no clutch slip, the traction control light hasn't even come on (granted I've not given it the beans yet) and as an added bonus the mpg seems better too it ran 63.8mpg on the way home! and on the commute this morning normally gets high 40's but today ended at 53mpg. Overall I'm really happy with it and the job Will has done, I highly recommend him and won't hesitate taking my next car to him- I definitely wont be waiting as long next time!

? Does SEAT build them in Spain and is it no longer VW building them in Slovakia? The boot would be small, as with the e-Up! he so liked. Put the Fat Uncle in the front passengers side, or in the back behind another passenger. Head for thinking, feet for dancing. Why not put the shopping in the front footwell or the rear if on your own, or with just another..

Picked up my iV SEL yesterday, so far so good and managed to get a charge in as well. Really impressed how seamless the switch from electric to engine is

Hi @RudiRudiRudi, Split charge relay is fine and loads cheaper. Euro 6+ need the expensive stuff. Durite works for me and I just got a kit from Simply Split charge to make life simple. https://www.simplysplitcharge.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=109_98 The owner will make up any kit that you want from his set versions. Have a chat about your needs. I ended up with about 7m of Red cable required. Medium duty kit for a 110Ah battery. I added a fuse box but that is only needed if you have multiple feeds/outlets. Easiest to get it all made up for you to save loads of hassle ... Heavy duty crimping and/or a large soldering iron needed otherwise. Comes with simple, easy to follow instructions. No spare wheel - Just a "repair" kit in my Roomster, so easy to just remove the polystyrene and get loads of space for the battery and whatever you need storing. HTH - Have fun...

Only been on the forum a bit, and just signed up to freedom, Getting the hang of the various topics. I got my D850 about a year ago, epic machine, Have had the D750 for about 4 years. One of the reasons i bought the Yeti was for my photography adventures in the winter, and the summer with the current rain. I studied photography at Sunderland University, and do a bit of commercial photography alongside my Music (Organist) and being an undertaker. I spent a week on the Isle of skye back in November, Took the D850 with me, We stayed in the cottage seen in the distance, Shot this Panoramic 110 HDR images stiched together. Facebook has killed some of the quality but still looks canny...

Or change a bloody fuse!!!

very nice I still hanker after the W7 KPR in my avatar ( I don't actually own it the photo is from the DVLA website "preview" ) but £400 is a stretch to justify to SWMBO