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for just a moment, id forgotten this was moved out of Freedom section, and when i saw Shy's name on the notification i thought he had finally, actually followed through on what said he said to @john999boy a frw weeks/months ago joining freedom if he hit "x" number of likes/posts. but no. . tis a shame

@ColinD Should the trees not be a prominent item in the Briskoda Shop?

Thanks @mrgf Makes sense. It is a 2016 SE L TDi. It is the wife's car so I haven't bothered to see what equipment/toys it has. (In fact I washed my hands of the whole purchase after I found her several cars that fitted her criteria: not black or white, no leather, must have heated seats and max price £10k. She rejected those and bought this one which is black, has leather, no heated seats and cost £11k!!).

I would snatch their hand off to get back all my money less £300 after 3 or 4 months. No harm in asking for a full refund but dont play such hardball that they withdraw what was in my view a generous offer. It may well not have shown up on an HPI check and they will have kept a copy, if it was clear then they are also in the clear. As she is considering changing it then all the more reason to take the offer, she wont be able to P/X it with its history, didn't the V5 have the marker on it?

My new to me, Jungle Green L&K 280. Had it 4 days..

Where to being with this, I recently bought my Mk3 VRS used (but new to me) from a good friend. The car has a pano-roof, which i wasn't massively fussed about and on the basis of my experiences so far I will never buy a car with again. Long story short within a few days of buying the car i found the roof was leaking. The issued appears to have been fixed now by my local VW independent specialist who had to remove the roof, fit a new seal, re-bond the roof to the plastic frame and then refit. As a result of my issues I've done a LOT of research into these roofs the last few weeks so prepare for a long winded response. The roofs themselves appear to be manufactured by Webasto however the VAG appear to have a particularly poor track record in terms of leaks and drainage issues when compared to other marques. Clearing Drainage Tubes The most common issues are the sunroof drains themselves becoming clogged and flooding. The way to test this is to carefully run some water into the sunroof tray (i used a squeezy mineral water bottle) and see if it drains effectively - the drain points are at the front and rear wheel arches. Even if still draining okay i would suggest this should be a yearly job. My front drains were nowhere near as efficient as the rear drains. With the roof open, the drainage points can be found in the four corners of the plastic sunroof tray, however the two rears ones are not readily visible and are hidden by the mechanisms. The two front ones are easily identifiable and are circular holes a few millimetres in diameter. These drain points are bonded to drain tubes - I've seen other people have these bonds fail and leak or become disconnected and they have had to drop the headliner and re-bond the pipes to the roof. The front drainage tubes run down the A-Pillar and exit at the bulkhead in the engine bay. The drain tubes themselves are just push fit into a rubber boot at the bulkhead and again in mu opinion there is the potential for this to work loose and leak. The procedure i used to clear the front drains was firstly to open the bonnet and remove the rubber stripping from the plenum chamber cover - it will just pull off. From there you will see there are several metal clips which secure the plenum cover, again these will pull out and you should be able to lift both corners of the plastic plenum chamber cover. The workshop manual suggests the windscreen wipers need removing, but even with my shovel hands i was able to reach in under the plenum chamber cover and feel towards the base of the A-Pillar where you will feel a rubber nipple. You need to manipulate this and you should feel an amount of gunk work clear from the nipples, this in itself should improve the efficiency of the drainage tubes markedly. To clear the tubes themselves some recommend blowing compressed air from the drain point in the roof tray, however VW seem to advise against this and the workshop manuals refer to using a bowden cable or similar as a drain snake. Personally i wouldn't use anything metal or too rigid as the drain pipes themselves aren't especially heavy duty and i could see the potential to cause damage. I purchased some plastic garden strimmer line for a couple of quid from the DIY shop - 2mm diameter, in reality i could probably have done with using the same stuff but a bit thicker as this was a bit too malleable and not strong enough. As such i doubled it up and taped it at several points to double its thickness and make it a bit stronger. It was then a case of gently feeding it down the two drainage pipes - if you hit any snags its probably a bit of blockage, working the cable back an forth it should push through and i was eventually able to get my cable to appear out of the bulkhead nipple and then basically 'flossed' the drainage tube. I repeated this several times and quite a bit of gunk was loosened. I then repeated this on the other side front drain. Finally i used a large syringe containing hot (but not too hot) water and washing up liquid and injected this directly into the drain point just to try and degrease and clean any final bits out. As discussed the rear drainage tubes cant be easily accessed from the top by my eyes. The workshop manual suggests these exit by the rear wheel arch and that access to clear the drain point nipple can only be gained by removing the rear bumper - which looks a right ball ache. I have seen some suggests that taking off the wheel and arch liner should also get you access. You could also clear the tube from within the car - removing it from the rubber boot where it enters the drainage nipple and exits the car, but this would mean removing a lot of the boot trim. This was all a bit involved for me as my rear drains seemed okay, however i will keep an eye on this. My research suggests that the way to clean these drains is again using your improvised drain snake - however this time from the bottom up, feeding it from the wheel arch nipple up towards the roof where it should emerge. I will stick another post on shortly re: the lubrication of the mechanism and seals

There are many possibilities, especially in this hot weather, if you have the air conditioning on, and the car decides the interior isn't cool enough for example. I would expect if there was a problem that was causing it, you would have the engine warning lamp on.

The indirect TPMS on a Yeti uses the rotation data from the ABS sensors, there are no actual pressures sesnors in the wheels. You just need to check/adjust the tyre pressues and hit the TPMS reset button.

Here is a quick guide on how to remove and install the rear make and model badges / Emblems. What you need Adhesive Remover (Autoglym Tar Remover , WD40 etc) Trim removal tool or dental floss Microfiber Cloth Tape (Electrical or Masking tape) New badges / Emblems (Rapid in Black Magic and Skoda in Black Magic) or lesser quality but cheaper (Ebay Acrylic Skoda Emblem and eBay Acrylic Black Rapid) Step one Make sure the working area is clean as possible. No need to wash the car completely down, but give the area a quick wash with soapy water and rinse with clean water. Ensure the working area is completely dry before going any further and out of the elements / weather. Step two Using the masking tape or electrical tape, mark the area around the badge as close as possible. This will help when installing the new badges. If you're just removing the badges completely then there is no need to carry out this step. Step three There are a couple of ways this step can be done so pick which one you prefer. First, using dental floss (this is a favorite) in a sawing motion from top to bottom. Draw the floss through the adhesive backing until each individual letter becomes lose. This method will prevent any undue damage to the paintwork but can be time consuming. Second method is what i used. Using plastic trim removal tools, use the most appropriate tool and push it in behind the lettering. Ensuring to not use to much force, lever the letters away from the body of the vehicle. You may need to adjust the position of the tool around the same letter to lever sections off at a time. This is quicker but could cause damage to the paintwork if you're not careful. The final way is risky but is lots quicker and less messy if you do it right. Using a heat gun or hair drier, apply heat to an individual letter at a time to reduce the effectiveness of the adhesive. As it heats up the letter will become lose and can simply be pulled away from the body. Be careful as applying to much heat in one area could cause the paint to burn or burn the adhesive onto the paint leaving unsightly marks. If you use a hair drier the risks of burning the paint is much lower but will take a lot longer for the lettering to become lose and can still leave a lot of residue behind. Step Four You need to remove the left over adhesive. To do this, use the adhesive remove and apply small quantities either to a microfiber cloth if you have a bottle of the stuff or spray directly onto the adhesive remains if it comes in a spray bottle. Allow a few minutes for the adhesive remover to do its work and then using a microfiber cloth to rub the remaining adhesive away. You may need to use a plastic spatula to help remove some of the more stubborn material or just your nails if you're careful. The area behind the emblems will have residual road grime, this is nothing to worry about and can be removed, so be sure to give the area a good clean before moving on. Step Five If you're removing the badges / emblems completely then you can now remove the tape and you're done! If you're adding alternative badges / emblems then you need to give the area a clean down with some clean water to that no adhesive remover remains. This will give a good surface for the new adhesive to adhere too. Peel the backing paper off from the new emblems. DO NOT REMOVE THE CLEAR FRONT! This is what holds the letters equally apart and remains on until later. You'll then need to line up the new badge within the edges of the tape that you put on earlier. Be careful to hold the badge / emblem away from the body as it is extremely sticky and will grab immediately. (I can assure you that although the car is dirty, the working area was clean in this picture) Once lined up press the badge onto the body, ensuring to press all parts of the letters and not just the center area to ensure the adhesive has grab entirely. With this done you can now remove the clear front and all the tape. I would advise not washing for at least 24hrs to give the adhesive enough to fix itself. Now repeat on the alternative side.

I’ve recently bought a 1.5 Scala SE L DSG 69 plate having traded in my older Octavia as I no longer needed a car of that size. Here are my non techy thoughts if anyone is interested. Very comfortable. Much more comfortable than my wife’s Rapid. Goes like a rocket. Very roomy. I can’t fault the comfort or the way it drives at all and as others have said on here, it’s a light year away from the Rapid. It’s very much like the Octavia in that respect but smaller. There’s just a couple of minor things that frustrate me. It has the lane sensor which I find annoying. Unless I am missing something, I can’t disable just that feature permanently. I can disable it at any time but have to do it each time I start the car as it defaults to on. USB C slots. Why? Finally, it has the Amundsen 9.2 inch stereo which is fantastic but for one thing. It has a hard drive but you can’t upload to it. All radio station logos are already stored on there for presets (the ones you can download from Skoda Updates website). When you save a preset, you get options of which logo you want. Many are missing, meaning I can’t store a logo but when you can they’re often wrong! Unlike on the Octavia, there is no option to upload the correct logos via USB. It’s OCD on my part but I find it absolutely infuriating (although it’s minor)

I'm pretty sure there will be a drain plug? Have you had a look? Capacities will be somewhere between 1.8 - 2.2 litres. You may need to get googling. Start off by finding your gearbox code and go from there

From what I have seen and heard, it only takes a bit of a low battery to do this. I think around 70% charge or less! This is most likely the norm on a five year old battery anyway!

I had kind of accepted that the first would not arrive in the quoted 12 weeks because none of my previous orders have. Due to my needs, I had done extensive research before choosing the car and it was the one that melted my needs best. When it arrived and it was wrong, I would have been in the same position going to order from a different manufacturer and then having to live with a less than ideal car, so decided to continue. Then Covid hit! Bugger all anyone could do about that, so I just forgot about it for a while. Can’t wait to finally drive it off the forecourt now.

Hi - have had the XC40 for just over a year now. Yes, it is a bit bigger than the Yeti but not a problem for us and the bigger boot is very useful as is the long flat load area when the seats are dropped which takes seconds. Like the Yeti absolutely love it and if it wasn't for the XC40 I don't know what we would have done, probably kept the Yeti longer, because as said there is no real alternative. I still look at Yetis with affection! Chris

Well I'm sure you could. And I'm sure I could. But I didn't, that was not reset for the whole 50 mile journey, which I said. No maxidot doesn't show the miles, I don't know of one that does show both values at once. I suppose I could have photographed the main screen, but TBF having just arrived at work and simply being impressed with the numbers, I wasn't thinking that three years later someone on an internet forum would be calling me out. Be skeptical it's your privilege, no skin off my nose. For a good portion of the motorway part it was M42 with the smart motorway restricting me to 50, so the figure was looking pretty good. So for the M40 part, I set the cruise to 56 (90 kph) as it tends to be where fuel efficiency is best, because it's the speed the official tests are done at (or one of them). You can be skeptical about that, too, I might have set it to that at the same point I might have reset the trip. Except I didn't. In terms of how the display compares to real world, I can't say as ICBA to keep track of exactly how much fuel goes in and the miles I do. But the OP was showing trip computer info, and that's all I'm showing. At the end of the day, this thread is only a bit of fun isn't it? I wonder how accurate my V6 vehicle is when it does max 27MPG according to the trip? Could be under 20 MPG, scary, but then it hasn't been filled in 3 years!

Oh right, i'm in Stockport so you might even see me driving around if i get this done

That's a spinney planted. Might help offset some of the hot air on here Here's the Wiki of the species Avicennia Marina https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avicennia_marina

Well I should be collecting the car this Saturday. I’ve had to wait till the adaptations company returned to work, which they have now done. @shyVRS245 it’s going to have my plate on it too. 😁

@Wino allegedly he is leaving...

The Tyre pressure monitoring system on the Yeti utilises the ABS sensors, so there are no sensors in the wheels or tyres themselves. The system works by comparing differences in rotational speed of individual wheels. If a tyre begins to deflate its profile changes and so it rotates at a different rate... the ABS system detects this, and flags up a problem.

Still waiting on the Racingline Shock and Spring kit..... think I'll end up adding some rear spacers too once the kit is fitted and the wheel alignment is completed. O2 Sensor has an intermittent crisis every few weeks so replaced that today.

😂 FairPlay to them for not editing that out or at least making it shorter (or did they 🤔), I was getting frustrated at one point 😆 @AJAMESR Agree with you completely, they seemed to have completely missed what should be the target market with their pricing. The pricing doesn't make sense, not for business either as unfortunately Bob and co are incorrect from what I have read as the BIK exemption of €50k is for electric cars only not hybrids, also business buyers would not get the €5k grant. For me a hybrid superb doesn't make sense in the first place, hybrids are most suited to urban driving but the superb is far from a town car, the Superb makes sense possibly in the UK due to the BIK rules there and possibly makes sense for Skoda in achieving the required overall CO2 footprint. PHEV's are about to make even less sense here in Ireland, from the 10th of Aug public chargers will no longer be free to use, very rough calculation and it will cost €3.50 to charge for the claimed 67km range while quickest charge time will be 3.5hrs

Emerald green here.

Thanks @Ads230. Quick reply, full information, links! I feel bad now because I couldn't be bothered to search! Cheers.

He might not be able to help as neither of them could figure out how to open the charging flap.

Went to collect my new exhaust today. All good it seems. All the part numbers match ETKA. There were a few scratches on the tailpipe but they polished out fine. Taking it to be fitted Wednesday. just for information in case of people searching in future I'll list the part numbers below. Rear silencer - 1U0 253 609A centre silencer - 1J0 253 209Q clamp - 1K0 253 141M clamp - 357 253 141A

Nice but a lot bigger than the Yeti, I think a lot of us are looking for a replacement of about the same size, driving height and trims as the Yeti. The VW T Cross fits the bill except it's so low rent inside - hard plastic everywhere, fabric seats, few convenience extras. Compared to the Skoda Kamiq it's really down market, but the driving height of the Kamiq is like driving a hatchback. Not sure what VAG policy is but clearly they have decided that Skoda's should be better finished than VW's. Why? Perhaps they are trying to force us into Audi Q2!! Good luck with that. So the search goes on.

I'm not detecting any snobbery? LED headlights are a must for me, so if that meant I had to save up a little longer to afford an SE L then so be it.

My dealer tells me it's on a ship from Germany. Sat on the dock for ages. Hoping to pick it up next week.

thanks for links etc...2 reasons to think of this oil change, firstly it's a late 2014 (not 2016). I bought it from an official dealer with at 14000 km and secondly there appears to some doubt about whether synthetic oil should be replaced by mineral? I have no idea what's in there at present.

I agree the original posters question was very basic without full details but blimey there’s some snobbery here against the SE version. Remember folks we all can’t afford the bells and whistles higher spec models whether new or used. I’ve just bought a 5 seat 18 plate (it’s actually 1 day from being a 68 plate) SE DSG with just 6750 miles on the clock for £18,900. On test driving it and then coming home to research more I realised it had the keyless entry system and the Canton sound system with the space saver spare wheel, the dealer obviously didn’t know these were all extras. I found the SE to be beautiful, the driving position perfect for me as I’m 6’3” and the build quality fantastic. It helped that the car is virtually indistinguishable from new. Of course I’d love more tech but the SE is great and has more than enough for me to cope with. I bought it on a personal loan x 60 months @ 2.9%APR borrowing £17,000 as I had a little residual in my px, so after I’ve had it four years I’ll only owe around £3400 and the car will hopefully be worth around £10k So, to the original poster, in my opinion the SE is great, it’s certainly not sparse and the car itself is a beast. But look at your GMFV, you’ll need some equity on completion. Thanks.

BigJakk any chance you can provide a link to the maintenance procedure you have decided to follow. Or post the details, I have a PR and am concerned about getting leaks in the future and suspect it may not be a priority for the dealer during a service who may not have much experience with PRs?

That's only an option in Sweden.

Can’t really see an issue with it starting with 10cc but starting with Abba then that’s a serious problem😂😂😂

Agree, totally unacceptable. The box should be smooth and work correctly every time for many more mile than yours has run. Wife's Citigo is only 9K miles/4 years but is a great box BUT the clutch (release bearing?) is a bit of a noisy thing compared to any car I've owned, but gear change quality hot or sub zero is perfect, no glitches. Move the problem up a gear so to speak. Good luck with the dealers/organisations.

Nice looking sportline looks really good in black.

At our Parking outside Coledale Inn room 18 in the Lake District.

Less road noise and better quality plastics inside ,and the piano black door shuts are a pain with finger marks and swirls

It's technically "sealed for life". But im going to be changing mine at some point. I don't believe in sealed for life. Even in manual gearboxes (which is what the 7 speed is in reality). The gearboxes also has 2 oils in it. The actual gearbox oil and then the mechatronics. They are sealed from eachother and completely different types of oil. You need 2 litres for the gearbox (G052171A2) and 1 litre for the mechatronics (G004000M2). Just a case of draining and refilling.

SORTED! I have a Monte Carlo that is as silent as a dead mouse. Found out what it is gents. I took the damper dirt/dust/bumpstop cover off the new damper on the rear driver's side, the creaking side that was not fixed with a new damper set. I removed the thin plastic sleeve off the steel top disc (wriggle until it is off) to bare the bump stop. I then cut the bump stop shorter by 15/20mm and re-assembled the lot back into the car. The plastic sleeve simply taps back on over the steel disk, friction fit. SILENCE no matter the speed or road surface, just like new. No creeks when you pull away, no creeks when parking etc. The Monte Carlo is lowered by the factory by 10mm over a standard Citigo but they left the bump stop length the same, the nose of the bump stop 'just' contacts the top of the damper body and you get a creek-creek at low speed. With just the driver in, the contact surfaces come together more than the passenger as the suspension sags under the weight of the driver. Did the passenger side too so to even things up though it was silent. Anyway, this is my proven fix to the car's issue. The car still has the collapsing bumpstops so safe it just comes into play with greater suspension deflection. I'm sort of happy Spent £60 on new dampers where not needed and with 60mins under the car, a sharp blade, you can fix this issue. German engineering is lacking in places. Hope this helps others out there!

Thanks for that Psy80 - after much searching on t'internet I had found an Irish Skoda brochure for right hand drive iV Superbs clearly stating DCC was a standard feature . Two local dealers didn't know, one even telling me "DCC can't be fitted because of the battery pack " ! My own dealership ( Mitchell's) did eventually confirm too, that the system WAS included , although had to search hard for the information. Anyway, after all that and a 40 minute test drive, I've decided to stay with the Karoq, choosing Crystal black / beige interior for my next one !

I was guessing that i could be done or just fully disabled. But since it's a short term loaner i'd rather not tinker with it and just do my best with the vanilla experience.

According to the internet you can permanently disable lane assist or change it to remember the last state. The drop down options are "not active", "active" and "last setting". I haven't had the time to let Skoda reprogram that, but it seems quite plausible for me.

Update after 2400km with scala. Lane assist is a feature i have grown to hate. I tried my best to adapt to it, but its impossible. It tried to kill me 4 times and tried to kill byciclers only 3 times. It's not a bad car per se, but it's bad compared to superb.

Definitely, like the rest of your car builds, all good reads. 👍🏻 Though reading it hurts my bank account when i see all the things i’d like to do. 🤣 Cheers for getting back to me. 👍🏻

Lane assist is probably the most dangerous feature I have ever come across. On narrow country lanes it tries to steer me into a head on collision with the oncoming truck I am keeping left to avoid. It also doesn't like the idea of positioning for better vision. It is designed for people who fall asleep on motorways, on normal roads it is useless. My suspicion is that it was developed by people who drive on better continental roads. Other than this, the car is fine.

Congratulations on your new Scala. Im enjoying my 1.5 and its surprising power, and low fuel cost. Its a common complaint - even in the reviews - about how the lane assist cant be turned off permanently. I live with it on and I'm working out how to avoid triggering it (maybe thats a good thing?) At least the stop/start disable button is easy to access. The USB slots are good for future proofing connectivity. My current and former phone are usb-c and came with an adapter. I've found it's actually harder to find a usb-c to usb-c cable (specially a short one) to use instead of the adapter, but I've managed to. My problem is the tray for the phone doesn't fit a larger smartphone well when a cable is connected. It cannot sit fully in the tray The cable ends up over the edge and gets bent - over time I can see this wearing out the cable and damaging it. First World problems huh.. Cant comment on the Admundsen as we dont get that here (only Swing and Bolero). I live constantly on Android Auto anyway. With the integrated Spotify and TuneIn Radio I can play anything, including radio, all voice controlled, which works well.