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Afternoon all New superb owner after picking up a sport line estate last week. Have to say after coming from a 10 year old problematic Vauxhall insignia this is a dream. I've got a rear view camera coming tomorrow with wiring harness. I'm planning to do the coding with obdeleven. I just wanted to see if anyone had any tips before I start. Thanks in advance. Tom

I must be the wisest man in the world by now then! Its the weather for buffoonery! Eurocarfarce are more than capable of selling you the wrong parts without any help!

We all make stupid mistakes; the wise amongst us learn from them.

Well they fit perfectly and with the low miles the wife does now they should last about 3 years.

My Superb alloys we’re collecting dust in the garage so first mod on our SEL Karoq has been to fit the 19” Vega alloys with Bridgestone S001 235/40R19 tyres. Might hurt economy a bit but will be a lot grippier. Well not too bad first commute tonight and still managed 54.1mpg for the 27 mile journey.

I'm not sure a Golf R Estate vs a Superb 272/280 Estate is a valid vehicle comparison. A Golf R vs a Leon 300 Cupra or an Audi S4 maybe but not a Superb. For me the smaller Golf R with it's lower stance & shouty quad exhausts attracts too much attention (normally the unwanted type from other boy racers &, the boys in blue). The Superb 272/280 estate (L&K in my case) is the epitome of a "sleeper" / Q car & except for a pair of fairly well hidden muted exhaust tips, has no outward signs of what lurks beneath. Add a stage 1 re-map for 360 bhp & it really flies. Admittedly unless the suspension is modified it is never going to go around corners like a Porsche but the DCC in Sport mode (std on the L&K) firms it up quite a bit. I run mine in Sport mode most of the time unless "her in doors" is in the car when Normal or Comfort mode has to be adopted to protect her delicate rear end. My now low annual mileage means that fuel costs are no longer a major issue so 36mpg on a run or 25mpg around town are acceptable. For me it's the straight line acceleration that is most useful for quick safe overtaking when needed, effortless cruising, huge boot / rear passenger space & the sure footed 4 x 4 system when the weather gets a bit inclement. The perfect all rounder IMO.

It has to be removed on the pre F/L because the foglamps are all part of the same unit as the headlights. Removal is possible on the F/L but a real struggle because of poor design, its easier with the bumper off.

Good call. I could never really run, not without it seeming like a lot of effort. I switched to 'minimal' shoes about three years ago, mostly for the idea of strengthening my feet for climbing. I found I could run, and easily. Turns out the big spongy trainers were encouraging me to heel strike, which is common wearing big clumpy mountain boots. A friend, sadly passed, was an amazing fell runner; bob grahams and all sorts... He bounced everywhere, ran on his toes, actually to the point he could'nt really land on his heel even walking. Calfs like popeye. That was my dawning moment. Try it in the garden or park. Run 30m in shoes... take shoes off, run back 30m, then run back the other 30 to collect shoes. By the last bit your brain should of got you off your heels. Got up to 10k ok, then stopped as I didn't want too much leg mass... mass, gravity all bad for climbing. 29.12.19 I went to far walking and hurt my leg. Still recovering and it f'ing knacks still when I tweak it. I'll add my own topic, as the plan I have for tomorrow involves 80squats and 400step up's and I'm only in day 4....it's brutal, but oddly working. Good idea Lee. Will squeeze it onto my list for tomorrow. Big day... big changes, although hopefully unseen by many, but enjoyed by many. I also found the couch to 5k app very handy, to get going at least.

Thank you to the two mystery planters In the shop is a good idea... except, any transaction I take, has a cost, which I would then need to take or top up on the other side. That is I would not seek to profit from this. However a tree package might appear Like a gold to a bronze and silver. In that sense I don't mind covering the transactions costs, it's only pennies. Got a full day tomorrow, but will see... full if I don't get a good wind behind me on the updates/changes I need to do. Add MaximusPeddalousGufforia to the swear filter But so far, wow... as always, impressed by the generosity & support of our community members, even in these tough times.

In conclusion...now that my car is back on the road and stopping well. Many learning points from this event. 1. When you think you’ve done enough homework - do some more. 10mm is a lot when it comes to brake discs - if in doubt ask before buying - saves a lot of trouble in future and pandemic trips to Eurocarparts. 2. Wear gloves 3. If it doesn’t look right it probably isn’t. 4. M14 Spline Socket + 375mm 1/2” breaker bar will get bracket bolts off working from underneath with axle stands - be prepared for some serious stress positions. Adequate space for only about 1/4 turn at a time. Be patient. Thanks for the help - can’t believe I was silly enough to think it was going to work when it was so blatantly wrong - always a good day to learn. Thanks for the help and comments.

@shyVRS245 @camelspyyder - "...an old airport..." You can see footage of Tempelhof (sp) in any documentary on the Berlin airlift.

Probably wont help you but when i have had the battery disconnected they wont do the one touch automatic,you have to hold the button. You can reset them to do the automatic but im not sure how(think its holding the button for a set time when the drivers window is fully up or down)

Hi all. Our beloved (not!) Karoq is in for it's second service ( just over 2 yrs old and 17k ) and the dealership is recommending the AC is serviced at a cost of almost £150 notes. Has anyone else had this request? and has anyone else felt it nescessary? My VW Transporter is 4 1/2 years old with nearly 100k on the clock and hasn't had one or needed a AC service/regas, and all the other cars/vans I've owned have never had a regas until at least 100k, and only when they needed it. Another dealership attempt at daylight robbery? or are the new AC systems just not as robust as previous cars?

Hi all, Just wanted to share with you my fix to the well talked about superb lack of bass from the stock speakers, I hope this helps some folk. I didn't want anything massive to take up boot space and I also didn't want a big banging sub that will rattle teeth, but it can if you do it right! All I was after was something that tucked away nicely and didn't hinder the use of my car but gave a bit more bass to the lacking stock speakers, I also didn't want to spend loads of money, so I opted for this set up, it looks nice and tidy and it sounds amazing, not boy racer bass but you can have it like that if you want to play with the settings and fit a bigger amp and woofer, but this is fine for me, more than enough to be honest! I used a Juice 900 watt amplifier with a Juice 1200 watt subwoofer, both bought from Car audio centre for just over £100, the amp was bridgeable as I only want to fit one speaker, this way it gets the sound from the left and right audio supply. I had to remove both rear seat airbags (bolsters) and all the trim in the boot, both sides as I wanted to tap in to the rear speaker wires before they entered the door, all the trim and luggage rails had to come out and I managed to find a 'engine running' live from the caravan electrics, but I will be upgrading that to it's own ignition live when I get chance and a better gauge wire! The earth I picked up on the offside of the boot, as pictured, seems to be OK, but again I will be upgrading that to the better gauge wire as I get it. I tapped into both sides speaker wires and soldered good joints with heat shrink, as I only want to do this once. I then had to fit an LOC (Line Out Converter) because the Columbus unit does have a line out but it's a bit of a faff to get sound from that to the boot, so I opted for the easier route, the LOC gives the same effect anyway. I have located the custom made subwoofer box from a company called 'Basser' who are based in Poland, they sell these on Ebay UK too at a cost of £97, in the left hand side of the boot, I have lost the small compartment that this takes up, but I never use it anyway, the amp an LOC are located in the right hand side compartment, again not used for much, but it's all nice and tucked out of the way. Finally, I installed the sub with some sound damping material and put a cover over it to protect it from whatever I have in the boot from damaging it. There were a lot more steps to this fit, but I have kept it short, but if you want more information just ask. I hope this helps someone as I have read lots of other posts on here and no-one has really come up with the solution that I was after, and I am sure I am not the only one who wants nice sound but without losing the useable space in the boot! It sounds amazing, the difference is noticable even at low levels, I listen to all sorts of music, from Rock, Punk etc. to Reggae and Ska, the 80's and Country, and some wierd stuff for the nipper, and it all sounds... well..... Superb!!! More information can be provided to those who want it, including model numbers for the equipment I bought and the colours of wires they are looking for when searching for sound in the vehicle and other wiring! Thanks for reading folks!

Since my washer lid was split I decided to replace it with this neat lid which incorporates a funnel: Part Number: 000 096 706 Easy swap out: About £7 delivered!

They should fit OK not sure whether the VRS Kodiaq is fitted with 235 or 245 tyres but they will be very heavy and make the ride quite harsh without DCC to help.

Brilliant, thanks a lot. Its not the greatest of sounds to be honest. I have it on my Octavia. I'm on my mobile so unable to see any signatures unfortunately. 😎

Yes. Excellent colour choice! 😀

The wires always break in the rubber bellows between a-pillar and door, never undr the door card as far as I know. Easy enough to pull the rubber off its mounting at the a-pillar usually. Trickier to get back on properly but by then you'll probably have found bust wires and be well on your way to solving it. ☺️

I really wouldn't be messing with the DPF. It's illegal to remove it as well as an MOT failure. It sounds like you'll do enough miles etc to keep it clear. The 7 speed DSG has no service interval. But there have been some recalls/service campaigns for oil changes and/or software updates. So you need to check if it's included and if it's been carried out.

Just as a reference and to avoid any other confusion then! The magic number appears to be 13,013.

Thank goodness, I thought mine didn't have the stupid thing..... Perhaps Skoda could issue the buyers of all 190 motored vehicles a pair of greased up latex gloves and details of their local recycling centre where it can be safely dumped......... Or perhaps a local fairground operator for the dodgem cars ...?

In the UK, DPF removal has been an MoT (annual roadworthiness check) failure since 2014. Your local regulations may be different.

Been there, done that, got the tee shirt, bought the video... It's a steep learning curve bud.

I guess my first question is does a diesel suit your journey and driving style? How many miles do you do and over what kind of journeys?

Anyone fitted the Superb Sportline 8J x 19" Vega alloy wheels onto a Karoq? Thinking of doing this mod as I have them sitting in the garage and would give it more grip going from Michelin Primacy 3 215/50R18 Eco tyres to 235/40R19 Bridgestone SOO1 UHP tyres. Would make it look a little like a Sportline Karoq even though it is an SEL.

Out of laziness and convenience I've always taken our cars to the hand wash place but we just got a nearly new black car for my other half ( i30 N line 1.4 t-gdi ) so I decided to start cleaning them myself to avoid the otherwise inevitable swirl marks. There's been a plus and minus to this as far as my car is concerned. It's never been so clean. I even clayed and waxed it today. However, I'm now aware of the state of the paint and wheels. Don't get me wrong, it's not bad for a 17 year old but it's a bit depressing discovering all those blemishes you never noticed and now have to worry about. still, scrubs up ok from 10ft.

Sounds like a steering angle sensor but similar happens with the ABS/Wheel speed sensors. Either way, doing the scan is the right way to sort it and you'll get the answer pretty quickly.

What format are the locations in? If you know someone with a bit of software ability they can build a .GPX file with these as waypoints or similar. This you can load into a satnav. Got a neighbour with a bored teenager who needs a project to do on their Raspberry Pi? Bribe him with beer

Having run my 2015 manual from new for 3 years then having a Shark stage 1 map installed for the last 18 months of ownership , I am fully qualified to comment. The standard clutch was easily able to cope. However I hardly every ripped it from a standing start, because it was pointless, they just can't put the power down efficiently. The most effective and to me, the most impressive thing, was to launch without wheelspin in 1st , get it rolling, then quickly into 2nd and if required 3rd, using the extra torque, which also allowed me to overtake very safely. It was a very worthwhile upgrade, which really improved the car and made it more fun to drive. I am sure many less sympathetic/experienced drivers of similar mapped 2.0 TSI cars, may well have regularly mashed their foot onto the accelerator from a standing start and killed their clutches, or owned 2nd hand (previuosly loved !) cars whose previous owners'driving habits had worn the clutch prematurely.

In my opinion the interior of modern Skodas is generally less resilient than older ones. Others might disagree.

Keeping both Skoda’s in fact I spent a couple of hours removing the 18” Braga alloys from the Karoq and putting my 19” Vega alloys from the Superb and then cleaning the Braga’s before storing them in the garage.

You will need Pro pack to enable long coding with OBDeleven. Use of the apps is not recommended as there have been instances of it messing up cars (plenty of posts on here). As for the coding process, very simple using the instructions pinned on this page, not sure if your Superb will be the same though, so that is worth further investigation. Good luck 👍

All check your PMs

I would check: - Vacuum. - Brake fluid water content (We don't know how long it was sat up or if a cap was left off etc). - Condition of the pads/discs. Do they have a coloured hue to the disk surface for example. - Get the car over to an MOT centre and ask them to test the brakes, they will be able to show a lack of brake performance. If all of the above are ok and the checks show up nothing then perhaps the following. On a very empty and suitable road, when safe to do so, do some 70 to 10mph stops, perhaps 3 times and allow the brakes a little time to cool between each attempt. Obviously making sure nobody else is in the vecinity and allowing plenty of extra space just in case. This will bed the brakes in pretty quickly.

Had these on 2 successive VRSs, they start out noisy and just get worse. They're about to die so I'll be glad to see the back of them. I've driven back to back on them and the Goodyears and what a difference it makes

Thank you all for a constructive discussion. I couldn't find a new strainer or oil pump gears at my favorite Czech parts dealers, but decided to renew the sump altogether because the plug threads are shot. And I imagine the old sump is covered with gunk. I intend to remove the oil strainer and give it a good wash. Then check for flatness at the mating surfaces between the strainer and the engine block, and try to check the pump gears for wear. Also give the bearings a shake to check for excessive clearance, but without unbolting any of them, at least at this stage. My father was the first owner of the car, and he has kept good care of it. I took over the maintenance about 10 years ago. There were really no serious problems with the engine, only repairs that were done to it apart from regular maintenance was a coolant pump replacement and I switched the carburetor for a manual choke Weber. The plan for this car is to keep her going as long as possible, using a generous budget but trying to do everything myself. I think of it as a hobby: there's always something to do with the car especially at this age, while using it as an almost daily driver. Replacing the engine would be an interesting project, but knowing the full history of the car I don't really believe it would be necessary in this case.

No, there's no toggle. It might be faulty switches or a problem with the drivers window motor as it contains the electronics. It could also be broken wires inside the rubber door bellows.

An update on the travel mugs for the Karoq. The holders are too small for most cups, but for £2.25 at Wilkinsons you can get a mug which fits - two sit together and just touch. If you want to spend more, then £18.00 gets you the Nespresso Touch which fits perfectly with space between the two cups.

Shiny. all fitted up ok but apparently was an absolute ****** to get the old one off. 17 years under a car on our roads is a good place for rust it seems.

I assume you have tried the general reset procedure of closing each window in turn then holding the up button for approx 5 seconds after the window has closed? Seems to cure most problems but yours might be more complex.

Try this, and also a gearbox oil change.

know that feeling well, blinked, looked again and my two little un's were suddenly 26 and 30.

Like my Mk3 Superb. Painted them metallic Rallye Green.

I'm considering a mk4, its very interesting reading some opinions here on physical buttons and manual settings, in both my current and wife's modern cars I quite honestly never touch a button at all. Set and forget with no discernable issues. I can't think of a situation where I need to push the circ button while driving and my ac temp lives at 21c, I set it when I got the car in 2017 and haven't touched it since haha.

False economy not to replace the water pump at the same time. Most good independents should undercut main dealerships, but check genuine parts are used in case of later issues, which might involve 'goodwill' from Skoda UK. My 2p 👍

Absolutely not. I'm simply a member who believes that without financial support the site wouldn't be what it is. If I have something to sell then I offer a discount to people who support the site financially. I notice you're not a paid member, perhaps you should join?

Given you've been scammed (or to put it another way, let down by your chosed supplier) I'll do you a deal. If you join the site as a Freedom member (cost is £10 for the year) send me the unit and I'll sort this for the cost of postage. Freedom is detailed here. Note, Freedom lite is not included in the deal... So, if you think this is something you're interested in, then shoot me a personal message.

2018 MY18.5 Skoda Kodiaq 2.0TSI Sportline all options (insta @Skoda__Kodiaq) best car owned.

I got mine from PF Jones and fitted it myself (to my Oct 2). Its straight forward to do, just need a specialist tool to unpick the wiring out the back of the fuse box - you can do with a paper clip but its a ball ache. My Oct 2 had Westfalia (fitted myself) Oct 3 had factory bar and my current Allroad has a Westfalia as well. My pref is Westfalia.