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Update: Got a full refund on the purchase price, settled very amicably.

Couple of recent ones.

Yes how impossible it is. But if you climb the likes of Cairn O Mount on the steep side and then go many more miles downhill and not do that as your return journey then you can generate electricity. So in the real world as drivers of EV's will be able to tell you, go try it. The impossible is possible.

Ah, to hell with the law of conservation of energy! Do you realise how impossible that is? Or have you invented perpetual motion machines? 😁

65% of Battery capacity used starting with 98% when charged at home (showed 45% left on car when charger plugged in) Started as showing 180 miles range (35 Miles driven before that went to 160 miles then 155 miles for a fair few miles) so 120 miles of driving a circuit including Fettercairn to the Cairn O Mount & then Ballater, Braemar & A93 over Glenshee to Glen Isla & Kirriemuir is fine using a combination of ECO & Sport & B with AC on and 20*oC Temp. 4 hours driving (travelling) including a few picture stops and then 40 mins to charge and ready to go again. (When i stopped to charge after 120 miles it showed 80 miles range.) Now showing 180 mile range. Free charging to bring back up to 98% in that 40 minutes. Sadly the 50kWh charger 1/2 from home has been out of order for weeks now. So basically much as in ICE Cars or Bikes but without the £20 or so usually for fuel. I will try the InstaVolt charger that is nearest to me and that will be under a Fiver to charge i think. * No trip to set on the car. WTF. so a Garmin Watch is dead handy to look at miles and not the Milometer. Speedo dead on by GPS.* 0-30, 0-60 & 0-62 all nonsense from official figures and 0-70 or plus quite surprising.

A (pleasantly) surprising range update... Yesterday I took the car on its first extended trip on the open road. This was with a little trepidation as it was a 90-mile round trip with a fair few hills. Naturally, I gave it a full charge overnight beforehand to be as prepared as possible. With an official average range of 160, I accepted that this figure would take a slight hit when driving out-of-town. There was a bit of traffic and I stuck to A-roads, never more than 50–55 mph, level 3 regen when needed, no air-con. However, having started with a maximum of 177 miles available, it took ages to decrease and I finished the trip (having travelled 91 miles, 12 of them super-urban) with 130 left on the indicator. This left the charge meter needle at slightly over half-way. As I routinely charge it when it reaches that level, I plugged it in last night and awoke to a record 228 miles of range! This is approaching Renault Zoe territory and I'd never have thought I'd see it that high (the previous best was 189). I'd always thought that the continual stop-start in an urban environment makes for better economy (what with the regen and all) but this has been a revelation. I'll be really interested to make the same trip in winter conditions and compare the figures.

I asked for the fix at the last service and was assured they had done it (and asked me to sign a worksheet that had a firmware update listed). The car seemed a bit better when pulling away and it certainly doesn't appear to have done the economy any harm.

That wasn't the case with our manual 1.5TSi Karoq which managed a best of 63mpg from factory and 66mpg after the software fix.

It would be impossible for me to be less interested in detailing 😀

I was looking at a manual transmission. Thank you all again for good advice. At the end of the day I took a look at the aforementioned 100k miles Octavia and also at an Octavia with the same engine but with 46k miles. I bought the latter, as the difference in how fresh the cars were was too large compared to the difference in price. Now me and my wife are going to make a proper test ride by going camping for a week in Norway. 😊

No sense to update if you don't have issues since updates do not bring any new features, they 99% fix existing issues. This answers both of your questions.

Very difficult to spin up front wheels with disc brakes, driveshafts & in the case of the RH wheel turning the propshaft as well. My way of deducing if a wheel bearing is making the noise is on a wide road without other steer to the other side so the weight transfer puts more load on the bearing, if it gets noisier then its failing, alternatively steer the other way to see if it becomes quieter.

Set up a Gofundme page first, no end of gullible believers out there.

One of the great answers to a motoring question. I shall now enjoy the snow if we get any in N wales. At the moment it could do with a run anywhere, as currently it is doing about 2 months to the gallon! John

It is worth some trying an EV. You can actually go further up hill and dale and around the bens and glen and get regen & energy greater than the energy used to get up hills when coming down than say doing a coastal route which is pretty horizontal / level. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/447572-ev-sub-£30k-comparison-group-tests/page/18

Welcome to the forum. I can't advise on whether the price is fair or not - at that age there are so many variables I think it has to be "is it a reasonable price for me". As regards reliability mine is now seven years old, bought from new, and in that time other than tyres and routine servicing the only outlay has been recently for new discs and back plates for the brakes and two new front shock absorbers, picked up at MOT as an advisory for one of them weeping slightly so arguably done for my peace of mind rather than essential at this time. So I would say mine has been very reliable and judging by the many posts I've seen on the forum over the years most other regulars here would probably same the same. The only consistent problem I can think of, and it doesn't affect everyone, is the sunroofs have a reputation for leaking but this seems to be a design fault in the sunroof as I believe other VAG owners have experienced the same problem (and possibly other makes). If the car you are looking at has a sunroof check carefully around the headlining and in the footwells for any sign of water ingress. I tried both the Mk2 Octavia and the Yeti when I was looking around back in 2013. The Octavia was a nice car and heavily discounted as the Mark 3 had been (or was about to be) released. I was tempted. Then I drove the Yeti and was sold within 200 yards even though it was well above the budget I had set myself. I've never regretted it. I hope that is some help and good luck making your decision.

Cracked it finally. Right there at my left hand finger tips on the end of the stalk. Various Choices and available for different drivers info / stats. That will make a huge difference. On the e-208 there was too much going on for me and a Heads Up would be perfect. I can cope with this though.

Well driven. You obviously enjoyed relatively flowing traffic , used a combination of smooth steady throttle and read the road well to avoid wasting momentum and fuel. Ignore the doubters and critics who seem to get a buzz out of 'having their say' on this site.

Another easy job. Also another easy job to **** up 😀 But thats how you gain experience You can buy a pair dirt cheap from the Chinese Ebay seller Maxspeedingrods alternatively repair kits are cheap, I had good results with the Chinese calipers.

Look at the top of this forum. VCDS mods can be done through OBD eleven.

I think it is standard on the L&K, the ventilated seats are pretty handy too along with all the other gadgets. I can assure you the Octavia Canton is not as good as the Superb Canton. The Superb has a quieter cabin and less road noise...at least it does on my L&K with 18” deeper profile tyres. I specified Canton when I ordered a new Octavia VRS, as my previous MkII VRS audio system was tinny and not even as good as my wife’s Daihatsu Sirion!

Harsh, or dare I say it brusque

They are quite sensitive to needing a clean air filter in that the fuel consumption can increase. As to the spark plugs it is the gap and plug type i check in what comes out and to what the gap should be. (Incase someone cleaned and gaped them, or not.) Someone will be along that knows about your engine as i do not, just generally 1,390 cc TSI Twinchargers.

@e-Roottoot Amazingly, the online service history (that's all I ever had access to) doesn't specify what was done - just the mileage and that it was a service, I assume just oil + filter + excessive labour costs I have looked at the Air filter, this doesn't look the worst I have seen though I'm unsure how sensitive petrol engines are to this (Have always had diesel prior) I removed the spark plugs and there is a small amount of build up, I wouldn't say anything particularly noticeable. Air filter and plugs are my first plan, Is there anything else that commonly happens? Thanks!

@PipH you're right, there are three ECU pins that get a permanent 12V feed from one of the e-box fuses, a 30 amp one, fuse 13. It's straining my vision a bit to see, but it looks like it might be the lower of two just to the right of centre in the OP's photo on the previous page? Looks like it's already been changed at least once due to being a visually different style to the others. @J.R. I agree that I'd be hoping @langers2k might be able to use his knowledge and experience to help here. The engine ECU appears to have both K-line and CAN comms, so I would have thought one or the other could be talking to the VCDS diagnostics unless there was something 'global' like a power feed fail? The fan behaviour may be the key to all of this, but I'm struggling to get my brain going today.

Only works with DSG equipped cars in Eco mode. If you are going downhill on a motorway for example and lift off the throttle the DSG ECU will put the gearbox into neutral therefore dropping revs in my car from 2,000rpm at 70mph to just 800rpm therefore saving fuel. Note if you use ACC the coasting function won't work.

It's quite probable that the ECU has more than 1 12v supply to it, but you need the wiring diagram ( which Wino may have access to ) to see. Also might be worth removing the battery lead for a couple of minutes, just in case something in the ECU has got in a tizzy & needs resetting.

I did check the MOT history though and it has not flagged much for the last 2 years beyond brake pads and tires. In 2018 it was flagged that the front shock absorbers had a light oil misting. It did initially fail in 2018 due to the offside rear coil spring being fractured or broken but I think this is before they bought it.

Exactly, you are looking for the best balance between price and condition. Don't overstretch yourselves but if it's within your budget don't be too worried about paying a bit over book to get a Yeti in good condition with a known service history. How frequently have the current owners had it serviced?

Coincidentally these arrived in the post just now. Surprisingly they have a reference to Germany on the back which is not shown on the Amazon page pics. Probably a marketing ploy for a Chinese factory somewhere. I'll see how they fit a bit later. Whether they last is another matter but for £19 on Amazon not too bad.

I moved to a Yeti in 2015 after 11 years with a Fabia Elegance Estate. You will not regret the the move, got into the Fabia after about a year with the Yeti and what seemed like a comfortable car for all that time was surprised by just how good the Yeti is.

When cars get to that age (8 years) condition is highly relevant to price. A Yeti in good condition with service history and record of belt change will command a higher price than a typical vehicle with more signs of life and spotted service details. My guess is you're looking for something a bit better than 'average'?

No. And don't shout please...

Hi please keep these posts coming as I am looking at an electric car for wife's next one and the citgo is a possibility if they are being made at a reasonable rate.

In these difficult and uncertain times I would advise against entering into any financial agreement that is not absolutely necessary. A newer model would probably last you longer, but you would pay more for it. The one that you are considering sounds like a reasonable proposition.

Bought them 2 years ago to increase the track width of my Vrs245 as they are 8.5J wide as apposed to the 7.5J Octavia rims. Also fitted 235 tyres instead of the 225 tyres on the Vrs. They are Audi RS6 replicas but only 19". Had them repainted silver back in February and they are straight swap for the 8J x 19" Vega Sportline wheels which I have now put on the wife's Karoq SEL which had factory 18" Bragas. I like the Audi centre caps although I understand most would prefer the Skoda badges but when I am sat at traffic lights if an Audi pulls up alongside they get really confused particularly if I floor it.

I had assumed that all modern cars have some form of an alarm fitted as standard. I have just opened the driver's side window before locking the car and trying to set the alarm off by rocking the car and by waving my arm through the open window as suggested. Result - nothing happens! Conclusion - no alarm, so no chance of it adding to the cacophony of car alarms on the ferry car decks. Thanks for leading me to the answer (glad I have the use of a visible steering wheel lock now)

I have VRS MK2 Zenith 18s refinished in anchracite, but for some time I've been toying with the idea of a set of Neuspeed RSe10s just worry they might be a tad fragile for my needs.

OK, whatever you reckon. 😁

Sorry I was updating allowances and missed a zero off the total for resident members... should of been 1Gb, not 100Mb... Should be ok now

Welcome to the Forum. There's a guy on a Yeti-specific Forum I frequent whose 2010 Yeti CR110 has covered 225,000 miles. He has no intention of replacing it just yet!

remove the led bulbs from the boot lid, leave them out. lock the car and wait some time ( others may be able to say how long the can bus takes to release a short circuit fault) 30 mins should be ample. open the car and see if everything else has come back to life. If so the new bulb was causing a short on the contacts and you may also have a shorted diode in the bulb housing. I posted a thread on how to check / replace this some years back.

Nice view, nice car and great running costs. What mi/kWh are you getting? The scaling is clearly designed for MPG and totally unreadable. The driver display would drive me nuts though, no battery percentage display and thick side bezel.

Travelling at constant speed on a level road takes much less energy (see Newton's 1st law) than varying speed up and down even if some energy can be recouped during deceleration. Only as that constant speed gets higher do aero drag forces cause you to need significant power. 50 is probably a great compromise between drag losses and 'god this journey is taking so long' forces.

Maybe look at importing an Octavia of the spec you want to Saudi? https://lifeinsaudiarabia.net/procedure-to-import-used-vehicles-in/ Without knowing what the budget for this project is, it's difficult to advise, only offer possible choices. I remember when I got my first car, a Mini 1000. I had all these great ideas about modding it to make it faster and handle amazingly, but it turned out I barely had enough money to run the thing, never mind start modifying it. 😄

No, it wouldn't make much difference. The hard drive isn't functional to the units startup, its just a storage medium for the maps & music. An SSD drive would mean it accessed the maps quicker, but it wouldn't make the machine faster at getting ready to access them.

waw all this it seems I'm not quilified for this project right now and it will need as you said lot of things time and money.. the only problem is I love this car and Saudi Arabia not provide more engine option .. this the problem

@AJAMESR go for it!! Getting a car like this in Ireland is only going to get more difficult so jump while you can. I would definitely try and go facelift but I think €41,5k is a bit pricey, the other one you linked in the Octavia tread would be about €38k cleared and is actually has a quite a lot of extras, canton, blind spot, etc. Can't make my mind up on the meteor grey though, looks good in pics but I didn't fancy it as much on a Kodiaq or Karoq in the flesh, the superb design though lends itself well to all colours. Maybe wait till Sept, you should have the news regarding Octavia's, etc and with the change in plates in the UK, I am hoping for a much bigger secondhand selection. BTW I got an insurance quote for a 272 and it was over €100 cheaper than my 190tdi, benefit of being rare I guess but that can work the other way too depending on insurance company.

So I am a volunteer driver for the NHS, part of a Warwickshire group called 4x4 volunteers as we usually assist during snow and floods moving patients and nurses, however our services have been needed during Covid. So I was dropping a nurse off in leamington when my ‘check engine oil’ light came on... never a good thing. Luckily I was just at the nurses house which happens to be 30 seconds from the Skoda dealership. Knowing I have a service plan with Skoda and having no other options I got to the dealership and checked the oil (dipstick was showing just on the bottom), again never a good thing... So I went in as as its a Sunday there was only 2 salesmen working, with no access to the service stock room. However after explaining my predicament the sales man noticed oil sat on a self ‘advertising’ the oil and we checked that it was right for my car and after sussing out it is absolutely the right oil, he gave it to me free of charge and helped me fill my car and then off I went. This may have been just a nice good will gesture from the salesman, however this is exactly the kind of service that makes you go back... so next time I want a new Skoda I’ll be heading to leamington as it thoroughly impressed me... albeit a small ish gesture! Anyway.. thought I’d share!