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What options you've got when you've just washed it and spot an almost empty, closed parking?!

I spruced up the old lady yesterday....not the greatest of photos, but the subject matter is kinda nice (IMO)

Just a quick update. A recent road trip from Scarborough to Edinburgh & back proved why I like the Mk1 so much. It took us up there with zero fuss, through some terrible weather (high winds, standing water) and trundled back through the bank holiday traffic (very hot weather & stop start a lot of the time) and it didn't miss a beat. We stayed in a nice part of town and despite being over 17 years old I reckon it held its own against some of the locals' cars & still looked good. I even managed to get there and back on one tank with an average of 38.7mpg, which is pretty good for a Stage 2 car so all in all, I'm a happy Mk1 owner. edit : We covered nearly 420 miles there and back with over eleven hours of driving and I didn't see one other Mk1 vRS. I spotted a few Mk2 FL and a whole host of Mk3s, but it appears that the Mk1 is not as common as it used to be.

Thought I'd look for a little bit of appreciation for my second vrs I've had since October. Hatchback Diesel, my first one, financially written off in a crash was the estate and had the 19" extrem alloys that I miss a lot but also really like the 18s when the light hits them just right. My second has a lot of features the first didn't, a pan roof, canton sound and subwoofer, full leather with grey trim and heated seats I didn't have before. Haven't don't much messing with the car other than a vrs rug in the boot, a dog guard that might interest some people and I've added the honeycomb centre caps and nut covers pictured that I like but amn't too happy with the how the quality has lasted either.

LOL, nice try but those lines are actually the reflections of the pillars at the back (circled in red for you ) This was from the same day, earlier outside: And anyway, apart from the very organised pattern, it would impossible for these lines to be soot traces on a GPF car as everything is burned down there before it hits the tail-pipes (one of the few bonuses of GPFs), As a GPF car owner you should know your car better! The only thing accumulating there is dust but they are almost enitrely soot-free.

Also from an older generation where -ve earth was just starting to come in as alternators began to replace dynamos (generators) - you had to be careful that the bumpers didn't touch when connecting vehicles of different polarity - metal bumpers - remember them?

OK folks, my first time doing a guide. The Briskoda community has provided me a load of help over the years, so I thought I'd give something back. The crank case one way breather valve attaches to the crank case at the upper right hand side of the engine. It connects to a rubber pipe which runs to the underside of, and connects to the air intake hose. From what I understand, its purpose is to provide ventilation to the crank case to remove unwanted gasses which can build up. The valve is one way to stop air returning up the air intake and possibly into the cabin via the engine bay. The tell tale for failure seems to be an oily smell working its way into the cabin (due to the one way valve not being one way any more), or oily fumes from the car while running. Checking the engine bay, you're looking to inspect below the throttle valve cover pressure pipe (the black pipe to the right of the plastic 'TSI' engine cover), near the front. You'll know if its gone as the valev will be broken and there will be a misting of engine oil surrounding the area. The new valve can be ordered from Skoda direct or via Ebay - search for 'Skoda 1.2 TSI breather valve' and plenty of listings will appear. To fit: you'll need a Torx T30 bit, flat head screwdriver, a jug for some boiling water and some rags to tidy up mess. Start by using your T30 bit to remove the two screws at the bottom of the black pressure pipe. The black cover, which the torx screws hold down, lifts off once the screws are removed. Keep the screws safe. Remove the electric plug at the rear of the pressure pipe, along with the wire to the left of it which should be clipped onto the pressure pipe. The rubber breather hose at the front right of the pipe should also be removed. There is a sneaky wee plastic black pipe on the underside of the pressure pipe as well, this should slide out downwards. Once those parts are all removed from the pressure pipe, you are looking for two clips at either side of the pipe, at the very top, below where you removed the plug. Move them both out to the side, away from the pipe and pull the pressure pipe upwards - it takes a bit of force. Once it comes off, pull the pipe out from the other end (at the turbo). You can see where the oil has sprayed out from the crank case and onto the underside of the pressure pipe, as well as around the top of the engine. This is how the oily smell emanates from the engine bay as earlier described. Use your rags/cloths to clean it up. Now you can get a closer look at the offending breather valve - or whats left of it. The rubber grommet that the valve fits into (or did, before it broke) is needing removed. Use your flat head screwdriver, or other blunt, pointy object, to remove the grommet. The reason for removal of the grommet is to (hopefully) remove the remnants of the old valve. I don't suggest just pushing the new valve into the grommet without removing the old bits. If there are bits left in it, it is best to not push it into the engine where they are not meant to be. Check inside the crank case hole to see if any bit linger which can be fished out. As you can see, some gibblets of the old one remained in my grommet, the rest must have been swallowed up by the engine- ho hum! Clean out the grommet as best as you can with rags and then dump into your jug/cup of boiling or very hot water - it helps soften it up for putting back in place later. The valve itself is a straight pull off of the rubber connecting pipe - just a friction fit. So pull it out of the pipe and discard. Push fit the new valve onto the rubber hose you just disconnected the old one from. Fish out your rubber grommet from the hot water and push back into its hole on the crank case cover, being careful not to split or push in too far. If the grommet is knackered, new ones can be ordered from Skoda or Ebay. Once the grommet is back in its place, push the new valve into it. I used some of the water as a lubricant to ease it in. Then, just make sure the valve and grommet are snug and it is a case of putting everything back together. Re-attach the pressure pipe by putting the bottom part in first, then pushing the top part back down, making sure both clips fully engage (click). Connect the plug at the top of the pressure pipe back onto the pressure pipe. Place the black plate back to its original position and tighten the torx screws up (7nm tightness). Finally; clip the rubber pipe to the lower right side and the wire for the plug to the top left . Remember the sneaky wee plastic pipe under the pressure pipe at the top - clip that back in too to avoid any chaffing. That's the job done. Don't fret too much if the remnants of the old valve are not in the grommet. Chances are they fell inside the case and were chewed up long ago, hopefully not damaging anything. From what I gather the crank case air intake valve breaking is a common fault, so I hope the guide assists someone.

After considering where to put a heath/wellness subforum, I opted to extend the cycling club. Partly as a lot of health benefits can be gained from cycling. Renamed the forum to health hub, so keeping one finger on a cycling/car word play as per other subforums. The other option which is a bit more drastic, is to enable a feature in the forums called clubs, which kind of hides the content away in clubs... but would make fewer sub forum categories... I opted for the above first though. Any thoughts or comments, please do, as ever, just say.... right off to upset the wheel and tyre wagon cart.

The West Meon Hut meet #87 Tuesday 6th of October 7pm onwards but, some do rock up early. The place does a range of cheap'n'cheerful food & drinks, its not a dive but, don't expect a classy joint either what is does have is some quick, interesting sections of road & a large carpark. All Skoda & Non-Skoda drivers welcome, partners & children welcome although, being a Car Club it may not be very interesting for them. I'll keep tagging previous attendees to ensure everyone is as well informed as can be although, please pm me to be removed from the list should it become a PITA http://www.westmeonpub.co.uk/ https://www.google.c...82abeebd26a1535 @timyates1989, @Xavier, @Newport91, @JerryT, @shanemeh, @andy68, @64033, @Leeboy, @dsj20v, @skodanorman, @jonbmx900, @mattsv, @JoseDB, @jcarr162000, @ZubSub, @K155BMR, @zouche, @Chris6663, @Toxicvrs, @LiamONeill, @mycoolbeard, @J45ON, @gary80, @Famous_Afro_Jay, @Bowders1, @TeflonTom, @peterhaskew, @carrera85, @146matty, @JackClap, @vrsjub, @pierst1, @fex, @solite, @jjc, @fatwomble, @kennyd32, @High4, @Mike18Clark, @Gambo, @Evans octy no:67/100, @Dave And Lolli, @Horsee, @andras.orban, @octyjosh, @lemonvrs, @Leee, @Carl Monte, @PompeyKev, @pikachu24, @V8 Dave, @Lee01, @Hyphons, @stuartvrs, @Yoss, @tamiyaandy, @hardcorehobbit, @andsoutham, @Tomote, @mk4gtiturbo, @Mustafa, @austenw90, @sigarland1987, @BJB540, @Thorpe76, @VladSoilerOfCarpets, @bullawayo, @Octy 4x4t, @Lingnoi, @Lkim13, @AndrewE, @bspman, @Chelseacraig, @jars, @flashman, @Cydermonkey, @AJ7788, @gjgrst, @JGrindel, @MissPiggy, @Hedge, @jronnquist, @CHRIS ELLIS, @Updown789, @stubunce, @@lexc, @mase101, @Chris245, @Robsskoda, @Max M4X WW, @Pullin76, @MHargr

I was told by Autoglass that if the chip fitted inside a 2p coin it would be repairable however the chip has to be big enough for the fix to work. Mine was too big to repair. I am a distrusting soul and went to my dealer who used National Windscreens to do the actual glass swap. The dealer then calibrated the camera. It was Skoda OEM glass that is also heated. I paid an additional excess with LV as I did not use their authorized repairer (Autoglass). The job took 2 hours while I waited, all systems function perfectly along with the heated screen. I did pay a bigger excess to do it this way but it gave me some peace of mind from various stories I have read. Interestingly the skoda dealer said they use National Windscreens every time and recommended them. They do not use Autoglass. This was my approach.

You must fit winter tyres to all 4 wheels for safety

Hello all, First time here. Just taken delivery of a Superb L&K 190TSI in Energy Blue. Am delighted with the colour, and wasn't sure I would be. Have resurrected this old thread as I couldn't find an image of the L&K on the Propus wheels, especially in Energy Blue.

Just had a look at the updated 2021 Ateca pricelist. Don't like the way you have to buy their mix of features with no choice of options... and not impressed by the paint colours. Just how safe would a car in Dark Camouflage be?? Does it come with an insurance surcharge???

That's the point, most people won't use the manual level control (I would bet that most don't even know what that control does...) so with bright Xenon lights the requirement for auto-levelling is an acknowledgement that having the levelling done automatically is necessary because most drivers won't do it.

Sounds like a ROI vs. UK spec difference as our 2015 Elegance does have a drive mode button.

? Do you drive for 7 hours or more without a stop? Several times a year while doing a 350+ plus run you would have to stop maybe once to charge and then charge again at the end of the run or sometime later.

Nope. Not only ugly, but not enough range, nowhere near enough recharging points and they're all way too slow. Several times a year I do runs of 350+ miles in a day and I don't want to be sitting around for ages whilst the stupid thing is charged back up. Petrol can be filled from 0 to 100% in a matter of a couple of minutes or so, so unless or until they can do the same with charging, I'll be staying firmly in the internal combustion engine camp.

Welcome. Not sure on a Rapid but is the switch not low down on the drivers door. It tells you in the owners manual.

Was genuinely expecting an 'Irish' joke there about paddle shifters only being fitted to manuals or something.

You need a Skoda CarStick (works with Amunsden systems) - this gives you online services....otherwise, set up a mobile hotspot and connect via your mobile phone. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Skoda-LTE-CarStick-000051409F/dp/B07BQHF3KN

It takes at least 3 weeks to get from the factory to UK, so it must have been a dealer ordered car intercepted to meet your requirements. Dealers often swap cars amongst themselves if a customer wants a particular colour and options and someone has one coming. When you get a car built it takes at least a month or more to start on the production line from date of order as the various components have to be ordered so they arrive on time.

I saw this video of an EV fire in China and as I watched all I could hear in my head was one of the firemen turning to the other and saying "You were only supposed to blow the ,,,"😄 https://www.youtube.com/embed/KWX5aJ63fU8

@e-Roottoot No I have my Golf at present which is being P/Xed for my Karoq. I generally keep my cars for a fair while: I ran a Golf 4 GT TDI from November to 2006, then my Octavia L&K from 2006 to 2011. My Golf Plus only lasted from 2011 to 2015 as the new Golf SV was so much better - and has lasted to 2020. I'll be getting a 5 year warranty with the Karoq and it could well be my last new car

I had the microswitch replaced around 3 months ago after a massive saga, under warranty. Haven't had the issue since, so (touch wood) I think it has sorted it for me. Also didn't receive any paperwork tho.

Exhaust tips need a polish with Autosol or something letting the pictures down. Mine are shinier.

All check your PMs - if you have no message that means I have no newer version for your unit.

I think when you set it, what you're actually doing is putting the system into a temporary 'learning mode' where it measures the relative speeds of all four wheels at whatever pressures you've just pumped the tyres to. This takes some minutes of normal driving to do, and I suspect it will indeed save some data relating to this starting point, at the end of the learning period. What it can't detect, is equal (rotational speed) changes on all wheels caused by air loss, because those data could also simply be caused by the car going faster. Only 'odd-one-out' situations are likely to trigger a warning. Luckily, for those that check their pressures regularly (all responsible drivers), this is sufficient.

All my cars have been fitted with traditional incandescent (mainly halogen) headlights with standard bulbs and there have only been two vehicles where I found the optical projection performance to be inadequate for safe country driving. By 'country' I mean absolutely no road lighting and little other traffic. Where I live in South Australia there is no annual 'MOT' equivalent so it is not uncommon to be painfully aware of poor LED 'upgrade' implementations on cars and particularly on older trucks. With our sometimes long, flat and straight roads you can have one of these near blinding offenders driving towards you for 10 minutes. Don't get me wrong, I think that LED represent the greatest breakthrough in cheap efficient lighting since the introduction of electricity and from a cycling perspective when the best you get were Eveready Nightrider 6 volt glow worms, well LED's are near miraculous. However you can have too much of a good thing implemented badly so it is really refreshing to see the standard of good advice on offer in this thread.

Rather than piddle about with LED bulbs, I would invest in quality halogen bulbs like Osram Night Breakers. I've the Night Breaker lasers in my bike and the difference is astonishing. They are pricey as £20 a pair, but they're worth it.

I want to add the vibrations in the 2-cyl mode in the 1.5TSI. I still haven't reached the dealer, cause I haven't had time lately. I tried premium petrol - that didn't fix the issue ( I hoped better fuel would do a better combustion and hence lower the vibrations). Reading the forum this is also an issue in the Mk3 as well. It is rather annoying. Adding a bit of gas on a slight uphill or on a level road in 2 cyl around 1500-1600 rpm in any gear ... crikey!

Further to the above; here is a link to the workshop manual for removal of the pressure pipe, for anyone wishing a 'proper' holding hand for safe removal. https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk2/power_unit/12/63;_77_kw_tsi_engine/mixture_preparation_system_electronic_inj.gas/intake_manifold_and_fuel_distributor/removing_and_installing_the_throttle_valve_control_unitj338/

I've done nigh on 70k Kms in 1.0s over the last few years. 1.2 Vs 1.0 is no argument - very similar specs. The 1.4 is a different beastie. I mainly run one up and have excellent economy, 60+ mpg. I had a 1.4tsi dsg Superb for a couple of weeks and didn't get close to the Octy numbers. We're talking 25% more fuel. Yes, some of that is the size and weight, but the roads were just as empty and cold. If you are prepared to bite the cost bullet every time you fill or insure the car (don't think it makes any tax difference over there, here it does), then go ahead and stretch. I've perceived the 1.0 to be underpowered only when it's stupidly hot and the car's full of people and gear. Even then, the limitations are mild. We took the present car up north a few months back, jammed to the gunnels with *heavy* gear and it was still enough. Yes, you do need to use revs sometimes - mine sings nicely to 5500 and third is great for a road overtaking, as it goes from 70km/h to 120 nicely - but I fail to see the chore in this. I also disagree that it fails to get out of its own way - it is an economy-focused engine that delivers excellent mpg numbers and can be reasonably rapid if you need it. Doesn't mean it's fast, as it isn't. I don't see the point in paying a price all the time if you 'might need' the advantage three times a year.

Damian@DPM, thank you 🤩

There will be a bunch of codes on the headlamp somewhere, it's can be: - on a sticker - moulded into the body - moulded on the lens - a combination of these Most codes are listed here: https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/codes/codes.html Example sticker from a pre-FL MK3 halogen headlight, the HC and HR codes state it has halogen low and high beams: At least in the OP's case, the tester should easily be able to see the aftermarket LED sticking out in the middle of the reflector. Given no manufacturer has anything like that as stock, it'll be super obvious it's not right. It's impossible to make an LED meet the requirements for a H7 bulb as the requirements basically need it to be halogen. It would be no brighter (just whiter) as the bulb specification defines the maximum output It's very hard to actually make an LED match a filament bulb as they have completely different characteristics. Even more so when trying to get the LED to fit in the same size/location as a filament with 360 degree light output. You can see below the halogen filament is pretty consistent where as the xenon and LEDs both have much brighter 'hotspots' which would need controlling by the headlights optic design: The washers have nothing to do with heat or keeping the xenons cool as xenon systems should run cooler than halogen systems as they are more efficient The washers are there to keep the lenses clean (ish) as dirt on the lens causes the light to diffuse and can cause glare to other road uses. All headlight systems with an output over 2000lm require washers I think all LED system require self levelling too if I remember correctly...

It's my mother's so that's the reason why the mileage is so low. If it was mine I would drive it a lot more. When I get the chance I really do enjoy driving it and blow the the cobwebs away. 😁

Love the update, living with the Fabia vRs mk2

Fog lights only light up a few meters in the road and not in the distance. Okay for maneuvering but at anything above 10mph are useless. People fit new bulbs but dont get them setup properly. Some are still set too low and consequently arent any better. Others are pointing up too high which again is pointless but causes dazzle to oncoming traffic. Most mot garages have the equipment to align the bulbs correctly.

New discs and pads for all 4 corners and brake fluid cost me £140 at my local Motor Factors for MK2 Fabia vRS. That is for Ferodo and they perform just as they should. Like discs and pads should. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/442915-pagid-vs-brembo-vs-bosch-brake-discs-and-pads

Still an MOT fail though, no?

Most of those should be fine. Make sure the caliper slides are well cleaned and free, and that the pad seats are clean as well. Wire brush the seats where the pads sit as this helps avoid noise from a pad not sitting flat against the disc. alternatively, if you want to check EBC prices, you can look up EBC brake shop U.K. and check their basic pad and disc prices. I always use a ceramic race pad in mine and their better Grooved BSD discs as it’s a fantastic combination. But that’s me!! they are listing Standard OEM replacement pads for £65 front and £25 rear and OEM discs from £80 for mine, so you could stick your car details in and check anyway as an alternative if you wish. Your local motor factors will also be able to supply you with a range of different makes and guide you on their level of quality as well.

Installation has been done and I will document here and then answer questions in another post. First things first for those with the Sound System upgrade is to remove the +ve wire from the battery (for at minimum 30 mins) to switch the amp from CAN-BUS switch on to power on off with the key. Next remove the surround from around the radio and the climate Remove the screws and remove the connections from the headunit I also removed the side trim down by the console to be able to run some cables from the head unit for USB expansion. Next I removed the climate panel so I could pass a USB cable through and pop out above the ash tray I then drilled a small hole through the bottom Here's my USB cables for AA and data I fitted the WiFi aerial I also bought the SMA to FAKRA connector for the GPS aerial already in the car The quad lock was very tight and I had to pull a bit of slack through, I would recommend an extension if you can. Moment of truth! Put the battery back on and wait for it to boot! I then tested the radio and got good sound from it. The radio signal isn't as good as the Columbus. My Columbus was showing only a few satellites in view, this was showing 14 and 14 locked on! I took a bit of time to set things up. I added a 128GB uSD card for music and videos. Tweaked the door settings etc. You have to use Zlink app to launch android auto (I was expecting it to auto launch. I found a setting to increase the resolution of Android Auto. I've not used it too much yet; few observations: No nav commands in maxidot SWC work well still You need to disconnect the bluetooth module from your car WiFi is so-so with my home network (Ubiquti Unifi gear) USB port for AA is only charging my P3XL and wife's P3aXL slowly and actually draining the phone - email sent to Audio Tech Direct Needed to swap the doors over

It's certainly not a Pontiac Firebird!

Forge breather hoses along with a powdercoated cam cover.

This is my old Rapid on 185/60R15 tyres. I'm sure at the time Skoda recommended both 185/60 & 195/55. I had Goodyear Efficientgrip tyres and they stuck to the road like glue but slightly worse fuel economy compared to the factory fitted Continental Eco somethings that were on it originally. I still think that it looks pretty good with 15"s Remember to tell your insurance company if you are changing wheel sizes from original.

A huge thanks to 45 people this month newly signing up or renewing both freedom lite and freedom. We've added a further 100 trees to our efforts. I'm settling down on 1 tree per freedom lite, and two per freedom. Then rounding up, because the planet could use a little help and not all trees will make it Remember this is coming out of the pot from advertisers; which you'll also not see anymore of, so less data on your phone, power win, win, and a win. Co2 wise, the server is still putting out a paltry amount in the grand scheme of things. So a 2 tonne offset is still more than covering us this month. I'll be making the contribution later in Sept ( Oct 2020 is 18years since launch of site ) that should make us carbon negative from a server/technology position. It's rough, I can't tell you how long I had my laptop or desktop on for in the last 18years... so I'm going for safe rounding, assuming 24hrs a day. It's been a fun mental game. I've also been wracking my mind as to trips I've done just for briskoda, like driving to milton keynes to meet skoda marketing reps and talk about mumsnet. I've also decided to back fill orders on the basis of 1 tree per order, which is more than I'm doing at the moment. Again, we're trying to be negative, not neutral and overkill is underrated, right? So, in a few weeks I'll be dropping a lot more trees and carbon offsets

Question, what steps should you take if your car catches fire? Answer, Bl**dy long ones!

I would add that in the 40+ years I've owned my own cars (which have all been manual not auto, and on counting back is more than15 different cars) the ONLY car where I have ever had the handbrake release by itself is my current Octavia. BTW it fully released, the handbrake was down, so it wasn't the case of hot discs cooling and the pads gripping less. Based on that experience, and those of some others here, it does seem that the Octavia handbrake system is less effective than most cars.

Power cable goes through the rear washer pipe grommet in the bulkhead (behind the glove box), the cables then run behind the trim along the bottom of the n/s doors, there is an earthing point just behind the n/s/r seat belt inertia reel mounting, its all easy enough to do just takes time to make it neat and tidy.

This looks really nice, I'm hoping to be back in a Fabia soon. I've been using EZ Car Care stuff for a while now and I'm pretty impressed with it. The Viper wheel cleaner is awesome.

If you do this, you may also want to swap the switches for windows, headlights, etc for VW versions as they too, will be red, not green. Personally, I like the green. Often, people buy new switches from ebay or somewhere and only spot the colour difference after fitting!