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Not the best pics, just a couple of quick snaps. When I get her property polished and coated I’ll get out the good camera & find a nice location. Yehh road tax is €570 and I’ll let you know the VRT when it eventually gets sorted. But that could take a couple of weeks. I’m booked in for early October but will probably get seen a bit sooner than that. And insurance was basically no change to premium over the Diesel VRs I’m coming from. Just completed a nice leisurely 50km drive, sun shining & sunroof open and she near got 40mpg on the display. Granted it was very leisurely driving but still pretty impressive. But it’s not something I’ll be particularly caring about as I don’t do very high mileage in a year, but I was pleasantly surprised.

Since Oil is a Coolant as well as a lubricant it is 'Simply Clever' to have the max quantity of the correct oil in for situations like towing over high alpine passes in high summer temperatures, or even just trucking about the UK. (As shown in the Owners Manuals.) Then the correct strength of Anti Freeze / Summer Coolant / Anti corrosion liquid in the Coolant System. * The check 'warm' is an error in this manual and others from Skoda.* It is Check at Operating Temperature or Normal Operating Temperature and even Check Hot in Audi, VW & SEAT owners manuals covering the same VW Group engines. Only the 1.2 44kW engines checked cold. these have only 2.8 litre oil capacity.

Twice, just to be sure.

Argh, kill the marketing people kill 'em all

I have no idea where you're getting your figures from but my Map is custom ( changes to AFR/ injection cycles / boost pressure) I know this was done because I saw it, this was also backed up by 7 dyno runs over the space of 3.5 hours this cost is nowhere near £1000+ infact it wasn't even half that. It might be worth being better informed before commenting. Tuning boxes have their place (for me that place is the bin) but each to their own and sometimes it might make sense. To the OP The point of the original post was about longevity really, if you want something reliable long term(not saying tuning boxes can't be) and getting the absolute best go for a remap, ideally one designed on the dyno for you from someone who knows what their doing with a solid reputation. Mines a different engine but running 230/450nm covering many thousand miles now and it's fine my MPG went up, it's a better car to drive and loads of fun.

Car arrived tonight. Too dark to take any worthwhile pics but I'll get some up tomorrow. Absolutely stunning in the flesh, pics do not do these cars justice. Had an amazing drive home, if my first 20KM is any guide I will be one very happy owner for a long time. Virtual Cockpit, ACC, Lane dep, Blind Spot Monitoring, Traffic Sign Rec, Sunroof, DCC, Sat Nav, Columbus, 4X4, Canton, Virtual Pedal, Heated WS, Electric Seats, Heated Seats, - Don't think theres an option that wasn't ticked for it. One very happy camper right now. One downside to buying an 11 month old Demo Model is that it gets washed at a garage weekly. I already kew there would be swirls in the paint and there is, so it'll be booked in for a good polish, wax and nano coating soon. But I had already resigned myself for that and set aside the money to get it corrected. So it will not take the big smile off my face.

Fitted this MST intake and silicon hose to replace the stock intake and delete the intake muffler yesterday. Took it for a test run along snake pass today, and it sounds a lot better than stock. Its loudest when the engine is under load between 1-3k rpm when the turbo is spooling, and when taking your foot off the accelerator in the lower rev range you can hear a subtle hiss from the turbo spooling down. However, one of the most noticeable sounds now is the turbo whistling when accelerating.

Thanks for taking the time to give such a full and interesting answer. It's no wonder that lots of oils aren't put through the approval process.

I do. The VW 507 00 specification is a document published by VW and regularly updated. It includes all expectations of an oil that are required to be met in order to be approved. This includes a long list of physical and chemical laboratory tests (eg viscosity at various temperatures and shear rates, element levels, ash, pour point, volatility etc) as well as a list of engine tests that must be run and passed, looked at wear, piston deposits, sludge, DPF blocking, fuel economy etc. To hold a formal approval you must carry out all the tests at accredited test facilities, achieve results that meet VW’s limits, declare your formulation precisely and commit not to alter it beyond the limited variance that is allowed and then send all this data to VW with a fee, they will inspect and verify it, and if all ist in ordnung you get a letter of approval for that formulation under that brand name for a defined period of time. Only then can you formally claim to have a VW approval. Over time the approvals expire; they can be reapproved, which usually means a limited bit of validation work unless VW have updated the specification in the mean time, meaning you have to meet the new requirements which can mean the need to completely reformulate and start from scratch. Such changes are signalled well in advance though, giving time to get products ready for the latest spec version. Also worth mentioning that to achieve VW 507 00 you must have ACEA C3 and you have to also have VW 504 00 (for petrol engines), hence you will (or should) always see an oil with VW 504 00/507 00, which is collectively and colloquially known as “VW longlife 3”. Finally, be careful with the spec numbers. The full specs are 504 00 and 507 00, not just 504 and 507. In this case it is not a problem as there are no other 504 or 507 specs, but there are some VW specs that have the same first number and different suffices, making a huge difference. For example there’s 505 00 and 505 01 and more recently there is 509 00 and 509 99, which are vastly different specs.

I've come equipped today.... Notice I've even brought my own coffee

Here is a great resource on matters oily https://aamcouniversity.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/7/2019/09/LBT-299-PDF-Manual.pdf

i would say when I had my box on, my fuel economy was around the same. Only thing I noticed was the amount of regens the car appeared to increase, especially active ones. Since removing the box, they appear to have calmed down. Can only assume it was due to the additional fuelling.

Does this help? https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2010-663/1/145-145075/

Hi All! I'm having trouble figuring out why water is coming into the footwells. At first it seemed that a hole in the scuttle (which I think used to be filled up with a plastic door) was causing water to trickle down onto the cabin air filter and into the car. So I shoved tape over that, see first photo. Checked with hose pipe for leaks seems fine but temporary fix. But from somewhere else water seems to seep in and drip onto the cabin air filter. This seems to be the culprit, see second photo. Under the rubber flap of the scuttle along the windscreen is a black plastic rectangle seal, which is not part of the scuttle. There is a gap on both passenger and driver side, see above for passenger side. Does everyone else's look like this? I had a windscreen change, I don't know what it looked like before. If this gap in the black rectangle in the second photo above is normal, then could I have some tips for solving this annoying leak? Should I be getting a new scuttle, and if so, where from? Many thanks in advance!

New rims have arrived from wheelbase, wrapped in fresh Vredestein Ultrac Satins. Hopefully find time to get them fitted tomorrow; back in work Sunday so if not tomorrow it won’t til next weekend. What do you think of them? And what rims are you rocking? #getyourrimsout #riskyhashtag 😨🤣

You have PM. There's some ECU tuned files in there as well. Not sure how relevant they are these days but have a look. If any wants any of it feel free to pass it round

Might be worth asking Skoda Norway, I'm sure there will be someone who works in the garage who used to work on the old MK1's.

It's been a talked about on here (a lot), but I've had 4 MK1 VRS's (two of which I've still got) and I've got a MK1 Octavia Estate L&K and none have had alarms. The most we got was an Immobiliser, and yes while there are Alarm settings within VCDS (Vag-Com) as you can change the country to set the volume of it, we never had it in the UK. I'll double check my paperwork and see if it was an optional extra, but I'm pretty sure we it wasn't. *2)The characteristics of the visual and audible signal may differ according to the country... The above is on the same page, it wasn't an option in the UK. However, you may find that the hazards flash which is due to the internal interior monitor. If you can call it an alarm, it's very basic. Some old posts: As for the door micro switch. This might be of some interest to you, it's a guide to replacing the door switch (which is built into the lock)

See :-

occasionally

A 5 watt halogen sidelight bulb gives on average 189 lumens which equates to 15 candlepower or 15 candles, hardly "not much brighter".

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312970779677 https://www.pbasher.com/?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google_search&_vsrefdom=gs Item and company website, pick up the phone and have speakings with them.

The facelift Oct 2 vRS that uses a CCZA engine is a gen 2 Ea888 with IHI20 RHF5. K03 was used in the Mk5 Golf / Mk2 (non facelift) vRS AFAIR. turbo.

I'd say putting the car into ESC sport mode gives you a bit of 'slip', but you're still safe in the knowledge that if things go pear shaped, then the car still has the ability to right itself.

This is just the kind of ugly that i like.

I can't say it was ever a dream. It's more of nice to have treat / retirement present for us both. That said, it would cost twice what I paid for my 1st house which I cannot quite get my head around. I get the the investment argument & the fact that they hold their value but as you say it would tie up a load of dosh which could be used for other things - including hiring one if needed.

New 312mm brakes on, new calipers, refreshed some carriers and new discs Mintex pads and some stealth black hel braided brake lines. saved 3.5kg a side over the r32 setup 😮

It is indeed a big step up and soooooo looking forward to actually getting it, we had about an hours test drive in it which was so much better than the usual 15 minutes up and down the road too. As for the qashqai, it's just cheap to be honest, never had particularly great feel for steering feedback and is really just, "tinny". I didnt madly want it 3 years ago to be honest, the wife did and she doesn't even drive but she likes a nice car. We chopped in a Touran against it and the first time I put diesel in it and closed the flap it was "tiiiing" and from there ive always noticed how it simply doesnt have the nice solid thud noise of vw's and skodas. I was determined not to go back to nissan at all this time and Im glad I didn't .

You are not the only one who is adding it into the list😁

Update . Dashcam was causing the battery to go flat.....the car modules would not shut down because of it.S oI've to try hard wiring the cam..Thanks to everyone for the comments

Yes, thats exactly what i mean. Don't know which car but i order it from my dealership. OEM number: 565064241A GCW It comes with new paddles and new buttons with white lights instead of green. You only move over the airbag and the vrs badge at the bottom.

Has it been confirmed you have one? Very have them in now

There will be a nice line in bags and boots available.

I started lining cable from radio control unit form behind the glove box and then along the door skills (without removing them) and then behind the back seat and then in the back left corner to get to the roof all should be clear from the attached photos

I really like it, and it's OEM too, i love OEM.

OT, Love the bag. Had me thinking about a youtube vid from yesterday. i have my Man Bag with me all the time now with my Key for Keyless entry and starting, i need it for locking as that is not very good / reiable. Since on the subject of bags i will post this. SWEARING / BAD Language warning.....

Synchroniser cone worn and through the crunching the engagement spurs on the gear and/or the collar are damaged. Sorry but I have long forgotten the correct technical terms. By all means adjust the cable linkage as it may possibly not yet be terminal.

To those interested, I purchased a replacement key barrel from Skoda for £72 and Vika Steering Lock for £35 - all back in place and working nicely.

No this place is really busy. Lots of people coming to look at cars and take delivery etc. I suspect the service dept is quite busy as people start to catch up on servicing, at least if like me they have put it off due to not running the car and/or being skint. It just seems to sad that one of the nicest salesmen I've ever known has gone. End of an era I guess. The other weird thing is all these cars on display and they are all locked. I normally like to spread my greasy fingerprints all over the exterior and interior of ridiculously expensive cars, as well as occasionally going "brummm brumm" and pretend to waggle the steering wheel

Swings and roundabouts. Some children play games pretending to drive cars and some adults drive cars and pretend to be children!! Built this for my 9yr old.

Re battery voltage. Modern stop/ start micro hybrid battery systems as in the Karroq do not charge the battery fully to allow some capacity for the regenerative charge energy to go. Depending if you have a AGM or EFB battery 12.4V is about 80% charge which is correct.

my tailpipes! lol....

I had to wonder what they were playing at , no mention of the missing cat! however....they changed the oil and the plugs, and kept running additives through it... and they eventually got it down (just) to the required amount! :O with NO cat! :O Gobsmaked to say the least ........

well, Daddy Phantom lives to fight another year .... seems to be getting harder though... found rust for the first time.... i suppose its 19 years old now, so to have none before this is ok... and its where the sill is bent from idiots jacking it up wrong... needed welding for MOT, so fixed.....

I had problems with my box and I ended up taking it off. If it wasn't for the issued I faced with the dtuk box, I would recommend one as it did provide a very noticeable increase in usable power

Warranty, the tuningbox went on a 1 month old car, the revo remap went on the same car at 3 years old Its not rocket salad😁

Perhaps getting your figures right first. My custom map with before and after rolling road printout was £450 in February 2020 with a company that build racing cars in the BTCC so not backstreet amateurs. When did a tuning box ever come with free rolling road printouts so you have no idea what your stock vehicle is producing power and torque wise and my economy has always improved after a custom remap compared to a stock vehicle. Current car despite going from 283 to 359bhp and 369 to 514nm the best it managed standard was 45.9mpg and now 49.3mpg.

Most of the dealerships I have worked at have always been very conscious of a new sump plug and torque to 30 Nm, then mark to show torqued (and rightly so). On one of my less than co operative days I had a 19 mm spanner in my hand and thought that will do. My apprentice quite rightly pointed out that I was not doing it correctly. I assured him I had an age old fracture in my right forearm that opened up at 30 Nm, so when I could feel a sharp pain in my arm, then I knew it was tight. He was amazed and commented how handy that was.

Finding a new car that isn’t a silly SUV styled car without a touchscreen dash is becoming increasingly difficult to find or appeal. I had a Fabia 2 estate and it was a great car. The Octavia I have now is great, but just a bit too big most of the time, but prefer over a Kamiq courtesy car.

I read this thread with Interest - My wife has a new high spec 2008 Peugeot which is on a PCP so we dont own it - consequently we use it for most of the journeys together - my 15 Black Edition Yeti 4WD however has low mileage and is used when we need two cars - at the weekend i did 400 odd miles in the new Pug and its full of features , screens and a flash dash - good on fuel turned 58 mpg over the trip with mixed roads - But last night i used the Yeti to travel only 15 miles , what can i say - what a far superior driving experience - better visibility , smoother , more accurate steering , logical dash and Music system - like an old shoe - so much better - i only let her drive the Yeti once which she liked but this new car is very poor - it got a load of awards - backwards step - Yetis rock !