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Aaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnnnnndddd......... I've bought a Landcruiser. Went down to test the demo, turned out the demo was available to buy (I always thought you had to wait 3 months). Drove it, liked it. It's quite old fashioned in some places but looks like it will be a very easy car to live with whilst still doing everything I need. Got offered a very good price for the BMW which is what swung it.

Only did 500 kilometers in last two months due to the lockdown. Need to do a road trip ASA the lockdown is lifted.

Almost 5 years after the MKIII Superb came out, there is finally a rather affordable upgrade option for DCC cars, when looking to seriously improve handling and road feed-back without sacrificing comfort as much as with a typical coilover set: The Bilstein B6 DampTronic with confirmed fitment for the MKIII Superb with DCC, meaning all suspension modes (Comfort, Normal, Sport) are retained B6 are not a new product and the fixed damping variant has already been available for a while for non-DCC Superbs but for DCC cars the options so far had been to either: a) Give up on your DCC adjustability and install any fixed damping coilover/shock & springs combo BUT with an additional cost of 300-400EUR for a DCC delete kit bringing the total cost to over 1600EUR OR... b) Go with the high end DCC compatible coilovers from Bilstein and KW (B16 Damptronic , KW DDC) around 2200EUR. Personally, as a Sportline DCC owner that is after as much sharp handling as realistically possible I have so far gone with Eibach Pro-Kit springs on mine and despite the fact they brought an improvement especially in Sport mode which is far from too firm or uncomfortable (more like a Normal mode in a Golf R), I have realized that I am after yet more control. Plus the fact that MY19 and onwards do not store the drive setting and I have to manually switch to Sport mode every time I start the car in order to drive something that does not seem as it wants to start bouncing up n down at the first chance it gets, is becoming frustrating. As some may remember, a while ago there was a discussion as to how the B6 with DampTronic (DCC compatibility) was available for the Golf R but not for the Superb, many of us had assumed Bilstein just hadn't bothered due to low demand from Superb owners and that the Golf items would be compatible with the Superb too despite Bilstein not confirming it. Well it turns out that was only half true. Now that Bilstein has officially given the B6 DampTronic to the Superb too, the front shocks are the same as in the Golf, but the rear ones are different, it certainly took them a while. These new entries (circled in red) are what DCC owners should be after, they were not showing up a couple of months ago Quick internet search shows they can had for ~1000-1100EUR which i find a reasonable price when considering it's a variable damping, adjustable system that is fully compatible with the DCC OEM system. Reviews of them on the Golf GTI were very positive already so I can only imagine what transformation they will offer on the Superb. Very tempted to have a go at them next spring when the new "modding" season begins...

One review had - If you want to go into the Outback drive a Land Rover; If you want to come back, drive a Land Cruiser

To meet the ECE regulations and be deemed road legal, there is a maximum light output for each bulb type. This means that all up to x% brighter will have the same total amount of light output as a 'normal' bulb. Taking a H7 for an example, it's 1500lm ±10%. The reason they can make x% brighter claims is when the bulb was tested in a specific headlight (of their choice), one section of the beam was x% brighter, even if other sections were dimmer. They can achieve this by tweaking the wire and coil size used to make the filament which is why 'performance' bulbs quite often have lower life spans. Most 'whiter' headlight bulbs tend to have a filter to remove the red/yellow light but this will also reduce the useful light output. For example, take a look at Osrams range below, the 'whiter' versions just have more coating on the bulbs... The cool blue boost on the very right is not suitable for road use, mostly as they only produce 900lm ±15% despite being rated at 80W rather than 55W!

I too have shaggy dogs - but a beige interior in the new motor (dogs in the wife's car!) Hopefully see the Karoq tomorrow and pick up on arranged date next week.

I tell you what I'll do. I'll do my best to enjoy the car with whatever I choose to do it, be it plough about in a field to go shooting or drive to Tesco at rush hour If I see you I'll give you a big smile and wave from me shiney new motor. What I won't do is moan like an old maid about other people choices. Now away and **** on someone elses parade.

Stevehanover, my sympathies. I got a 2017 Octavia L&K a month ago and spent a solid week trying to find out what I needed to do to update my maps. Even in users' discussions I was lost with jargon (Mib1 Mib2 Fat32 etc) After 4 days I discovered that (unlike Amundsen) my Columbus system did not run from an SD card (which my dealer thought). Instead it uploads from the card, so here's what I did. (In Scotland, dont know how it applies worldwide) 1Download (onto your computer) Europe maps from Skoda update portal. 26 gb zip file. Took me 2+hours 2 Format a 32gb SD card on your computer in Fat32 format. 3 Unzip the zip file 4 Drag and drop all the unzipped files (both Mib1 and 2) to the SD card 5 once they are in the SD card, insert in card drive in you car head unit. 6 In Infotainment System settings, (keep looking!) there is an "update" choice. Choose it! 7 Took my system 30 minutes to update. I went for a drive on local new road system, and bingo! there it was. I know how annoying it was, so GOOD LUCK!

You get to travel about helping others out in adverse weather like tomorrow maybe, and park at the hospital A&E or Maternity if getting pregnant ladies etc there. Remember and carry a flask of boiling water just incase. You can have a nice cuppa while someone delivers the baby if you can not get there in time.

I didn't buy a RR George so I don't have the lofty entitlement to push lessor folk out of my way. It's just a Toyota so I shall park at the far end of the car park with the other terrorists. I've few pics on my phone but not time to move them somewhere they can be uploaded from for now.

80 watt reversing lights? Hope that I never get any of them reversing towards me. Just seen the preceeding post, maybe I should get a dark tinted windscreen

On the plus side people will let you out of T-Junctions now.

I rate a fixed tow ball very highly. Practical for those that think touch parking is the way to go or that can not stop properly in traffic. I have had a few hits over the years with no damage to my vehicle but broken number plates or dented fronts on their cars / taxis.

Sorry @FUBAR, going to mess your nice number up with a further 64 trees for freedom and 9 for stickers, so a total of 73 trees, which I'll round up. > https://ecologi.com/briskoda?tree=5f772b16a53e890018f36e0e Another 2 tonnes, ample again. When I said Sept, I meant Oct as that's the sites birthday. So before the 22nd. Will be a fun number to play with and I'll have to do a last minute change to keep OCD ODO tree's in check

I have a set of Eibach pro springs fitted - has transformed the car - I also have DCC of course. Skoda kindly replaced my front shocks under warranty earlier this year - so they are hardly run in. The Eibach's together with my Superpro sway has transformed the handling & turn in. Stance is also perfect. How it should be for such a large motor! I will consider these B6's - but as you say...will go into next years budget - I've spent enough this year on mods!!

Hi, possibly an air lock when the cooling system was refilled.

I spend a lot of time driving UK cars in France and I'd happily switch over to metric but not only can't I change my sat nav to give measurments in miles but I can't change the dash over to kph and there's no secondary tick marks on the dials. It makes it a tad tricky to drive the right speed when you're over there. I could always use waze on the phone but that's hardly safe

Hello, I'm going to be the proud owner of a Superb 280 L&K on Monday. It's a 2018 and i haven't actually seen it yet add it's in Edinburgh and I live near Manchester but it's at a Skoda dealer and they sent me a video so I'm happy with the condition etc. A couple of questions, I think it hasn't got paddle shifts, are they easily retrofitted? Is the DCC an optional extra and if so how do you know if it's fitted? I've come from a 450bhp Audi S6 so once the warranty has expired I may want to get a bit more power. Is there a preferred map or tuner and what sort of power can be liberated with just a map? I don't want crazy power, but a bit more oomph would be nice. I've had a few VAG cars in the past but this is my first Skoda. A colleague has a Sportline 220 estate which i liked so I'm looking forward to getting it. I'm sure I'll have more questions once I've got it. TIA

No way that's a good idea mate, I never thought of that, I will try that for sure tomorrow and post an update ! Cheers pal

I see you’ve retrieved it from being stuck in the ford and had it resprayed!

Do you know what diameter the discs are? There are probably a few different brake setups to choose between when looking for these screws. (I think you are not referring to the disc retaining screw as the above posters seem to have interpreted?) I expect they are probably fine to re-use as you describe, but let's clarify exactly which screws first.

Did a brim to brim test this week. 398.8km as I pulled in to fill back to brim. 33.41L went in. I make that 33.83mpg. I’m quite happy with that considering I’ve had the car only a couple of weeks so my driving is quite “spirited” and that also includes 5 or 6 Launch Control tests. Doing some napkin maths - over the last 4 years I only put 54,000KM on my Diesel VRs. That was getting me high 40’s per gallon. Let’s say 50mpg. 5.65l per 100KM Fuel for 4 years cost 3051L @ let’s say 1.15 per L. = 3508€ At 34mpg 8.3L per 100km = 4582L @ let’s say 1.25 per L = 5602€ Difference of 2094€ - sounds a lot. But the petrol engine was cheaper to buy than the Diesel by about 2k to 2.5k - so actually break even given my mileage. And even if the engines cost the same and there was no saving in buying a petrol - over 4 years 2094€ is about 10€ per week extra. Totally worth it for the smile it puts on your face. The VRs was a great car, loved it. But this is another level of enjoyment while driving.

Hi guys, i change me clutch and for first moment everything is ok. Thanks and i right next 5000 kilometres.

In the event of an accident that is life changing or life taking the Police Examiners job is to be checking the vehicle, bulbs and other aspects / modifications or look for faults.

Aye bike rack is exactly what I wanted it for. But also for a trailer. SO's mother is downsizing so we need to collect a lot of stuff, I was going to hire a trailer but I can probably just fit it all in a door pocket for the LC. We did a we trial run to the supermarket on the drive, found out the LC is about a foot longer (+tow bar) than a standard space. 360 camera handily showed us hanging out front and back.

Topic was started for VZE activation on new Skoda Superb Facelift.... Not for circus for all adaptions....

Driveshaft nut is part number 6Q0407396B. Size is 36mm, 12-point socket. A thin-walled socket is needed as the hub recess is tight.

Only negatives we could find, It's old school on the inside, tough as old boot but no nice soft touch stuff. Nothing crackly everything feels liked it's solid but it not tactile really. All glove suitable I suppose. Passenger seat doesn't height adjust, SO wanted to put hers down she felt quite pertched on it. They've put a tow bar on it, which I did want, but it's non-removable, it makes a big car quite a bit bigger. I assume I could get this switched out later. Diamond cut bloody alloys. On a proper 4x4. FFS

Honda to leave F1 after 2021 https://www.msn.com/en-gb/sport/news/red-bull-partner-honda-to-leave-f1-after-2021/ar-BB19DfSt?ocid=msedgdhp

Rather than rely on @J.R. 's interpretation, here is the section he refers to l_25420120920en00770135.pdf.en.pdfpdf

The £540 is the first year figure for your new car. It's always inflated fir the first year

SmartLink doesn't appear in the menu on older units. If SmartLink is shown then that means it is present. When it says "contact a dealer to activate SmartLink", that means a dealer can activate it. Summary: Your dealer is an idiot.

Try emailing a few other local dealers for a price to enable. You then have options - either take it to one if they quote and the price is good, or go back to your dealer saying the franchise up the road can do it and see if they reassess their ability to do it. It may simply be a case they don't want to bother with this sort of work.

If your considering doing this think about ordering extra load tyres, usually labeled XL. They will have a higher load index number which means a reinforced sidewall. They will resist damage from potholes and reduce body roll a tad - but can actually be cheaper than the std load equivalent.

Thank you

Don't worry I wouldn't buy a smaller, slower car like the Golf with it's tiny fuel tank and poor range. I actually feel sorry for all Golf drivers unless they are in the excellent Golf R.

The Ps4s on the Golf were quieter than the Contis were. I think its tread pattern as PS4 steered firmer but had a more compliant ride. I doubt PS4s are run flat as tyres are made specifically for that. The Pirellis on the VRS are fairly quiet but SUVs seem better than cars anyway, you can't hear the motor most of the time or notice road noise so it is a quiet car regardless. Maybe go try a demo VRS with Pirellis on it may be your best bet if not sure.

Have a look at the top of the thread it's this on VW servers. Basically Skoda servers are rubbish. http://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/P88_N60S5MIBH3_ROW_NT.7z

Just an update on proceedings. Went to a DPF specialist who removed the dpf, stuck it in his machine and flush cleaned it. Result - limp mode now deactivated and car running normally. No warning lights. Exhaust gas temperature is still putting out a 999 value. It's not causing an error now but he said it might when it tries to regen and suggests replacing it. So I'll buy a new one and fit it myself. DPF clean done in 3hrs at a cost of £320 Inc VAT.

Coasting function, nothing to be worried about - think this feature is on most VAG group vehicles now like the Seat Arona.

Extreme way to keep kerbs free of chewing gum.

Here we go (again)

Well after fitting a Volvo harmonic damper to my axle beam, fitting silent sound deadening pads to the spare wheel well and under the back seat, squirting some foam into the front drivers side A pillar( too cold now in UK to go further with this) also replacing the tailgate stops for the new heavily sprung stops, putting some sound proofing felt under back seat and in the foot well, fitting a spare wheel and tool kit plus a full set of the rubber Skoda mats interior and boot area, fitting the full size engine tray and the middle large undershield I can say that my car is much better than it was when I first got it a month ago. I haven't finished with these modifications as I need to change front tyres for Goodyear all season ones, order more dampers, squirt more foam next year in warm weather and add more sound insulation under the front carpets, fitting sound deadening pads to the rear wheel arches after taking out the carpet - then I will have done as much as is possible to make the car more pleasant to be in when driving- it's a lot of work but I've seen be benefits on every single upgrade - the best two so far were the foam and the Volvo damper. Michael

Calm down ladies......let me explain Firstly the belt does not run in oil, someone is confusing this with Ford Ecoboost engine designs. There is no MUST about cambelt changes, they are recommendations only, in any case any car over 5 years will normally be out of warranty so no claim would be possible. But heres some detail...... The 5yr/60000 mile recommendation is a Skoda UK (official importer) thing. Lots, but not all dealers will follow that, except some try it on at 4yrs/40,000 miles. Skoda factory maintenance manuals on the other hand state that its recommended the cambelt is examined at 5yrs/120,000 (iirc) miles and give a detailed procedure of how to examine and what to check. Then take appropriate action, change the belt or leave it for another 2 years/20,000 miles and re examine. Until the mileage limit of 120,000* is hit then change it regardless of condition. A number of design innovations supposedly make this possible. Firstly the belt drive is quite simple, no driving the water pump directly, which is now driven by another much smaller belt at the opposite end of the camshaft. The sprockets are of a CTC oval design which reduces repetitive tension stress. The belt material and construction used are now much more long lived and its now quite a beefy wide belt . The valves are actuated by low friction roller rocker fingers again reducing load. SSP-511_The_New_EA211_Petrol_Engine_Family.pdfpdf Both Continental, who came up with this innovation over many years of development and VAG have stated at various times in promotional and technical papers that the belt is now a "lifetime" part, but its also obvious that when it dies its life is over. There is also the other vacuum cleaner size toothed belt at the other end of the camshaft that drives the water pump, but its not so instantly disastrous if that were to break. Hope this help you all understand EA211 cambelts and make informed decisions. *120,000 is my recollection, but it may be 110,000 or even 130,000 miles. In my experience its unlikely a UK skoda dealer would carry out such an inspection even if asked.

A bit in the wilderness.

Did the suspension this afternoon, and changed the track rod ends as one had split. some low milage polo gti shocks and fresh eibachs, new top mounts. I fitted the front strut brace and tbh the red doesn’t look too bad. Just the rarb to sort at some point.

Yeah I found the Nest very good at calculating how quickly the house heated up and cooled down. And so it remained at a steadier more comfortable temperature. With the old "dumb" thermostat it would get really warm and then cold all the time. As I said before, the advantage (and savings) with the Hive are when it's used with Opentherm. As the boiler temperature is controlled on demand rather than it being set at a fixed temperature. And rather than just switching the boiler on and off it can continue to run at a low output (or just running the pump for longer). A big safety feature is when it's linked to nest smoke detectors too. If they detect smoke or carbon monoxide they tell the thermostat to shut the boiler off.

Shooting isn't new to me, so I know I like it. I'm up for a change of vehicle anyway. And this is just a lighhearted discussion and to see if anything pops up that I've not thought of. I'm not really relying on the internet to make my mind up about anything.

I have found a new form of odo porn to post in my OCD thread 🙌 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/266450-11111-11111-the-show-us-your-odo-thread-now-12345-6789-brisky-tree-odo-fun/

the problem was the fan module. It was sticking on sometime when activated either through temp sensor or when performing a regen. Whole new unit was needed. Hope it helps anyone with a similar issue