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It is better to use N rather than P. The danger of using P is that should someone hit you from behind while stopped it could go from just a small ding in the rear and being able to carry on driving to gearbox damage and needing to be recovered.

Just bought this car, shame it didn’t have the optional extra blonde still installed 😂

I picked up my New Kamiq Yesterday from Skoda in Aylesbury. The Car is brilliant and by far its the best skoda I have had. But the New connectivity systems they are putting on the cars are giving me a headache. The car has Skoda connect but it won't load my Skoda profile and complete the Skoda connect activation, it feels like the data connection is not working. how do i fix it..? I have been on the skoda.cubictelecom.com which is listed in the manual and created an account on there, I have tried to use my mobile as a hotspot and connect the car to that and still nothing. I have tried to do a software update but nothing happens, and if i do a new user registration on the car i also get nothing but the same screen saying that the car is activating but i have had that screen for over 45 minutes and it should not take that long.

Update The BMC J367 has a microcontroller inside acting as a LIN slave. It gets data from the current shunt, the thermistor, and the voltage on battery then packs it according to serial LIN protocol. I took the battery out, recharged it overnight using an intelligent battery charger with a 7-step charging current. The battery showed 61% charged at the beginning, 100% at the end. Installed the battery on the car. The voltage on battery while driving in the city couldn't be bothered to go over 13.1V, sometimes so low as 12.7V. Now I have two options: Rest assured that VW knows what is doing in terms of charging % and charging strategy to minimize the load on the engine and prolong the life of the battery. Note: original battery lasted 5 years but gave up without warning in a mall parking lot after staying 15 minutes inside the mall. Dig in by decoding the LIN bus and monitor the 3 input parameters, correlate them with the driving phase and go on from there. Your call please?

Both jobs now done. Tensioner pulley dismantled and regreased. quite tricky tightening the central bolt so jammed a long screwdriver in from the top to stop the pulley pivoting whilst tightening with the 16mm ring spanner. The fan thermoswitch was not very tight explaining the leak and so the deep 29mm socket ordered from Ebay was perfect for the job. I cleaned the mating surfaces of the switch and the radiator and added a thin smear of RTV as a sealant then used the torque wrench at 26 lbs ft to get it nipped back up. I left it over night to make sure the RTV had set then replaced the coolant that I had drained out and that sorted it it out, no more leaks. Thanks for your help Wino!

Pass one bag handle loop through the other and then around the back of the bar to which the hooks are attached once or twice if necessary and then onto the hook. Always worked fine for me (I also had a spare wheel in my last Yeti). p.s. similar to what J.R. says above.

If you can dump the adaption channels for the BCM and gateway, feel free to chuck them over in a PM and I'll have a quick look over them

Next time you do get a puncture give me a call and I'll drive past with my spare wheel whilst grinning at you. But until that day, you win

Hi Arsen, yes it looks like you are right. In that case the SSP doesn't mention them, but they also look as if they adjust the beam in some way.

Probably missing tha fact that you have a variofloor or raised floor for a spare wheel. That said the single hooks that I have each side are higher than that, I have to cross the handles on my shopping bags, lean them over and only hook on the furthest bag handle. - I know what I mean but no-one else will!!

Is yours KESSY (keyless entry), if so mine would some times eat batteries in literally 2 months and thats using decent batteries. I did wonder if leaving car unlocked caused the key fob battery to drain quicker (as if being unlocked it was waiting for car to be started so was looking for the key signal) as mine is in a locked alarmed garage so didnt always lock it, but then when I started locking it the fob battery lasted longer.

Yup, automatic mode works as expected so the ambient lighting, MIB and dashboard colours change when the driving mode changes. Individual mode works ish - it can use any colour set in Fahrprofil_7 without a problem. I think stock behaviour should let the driver change the individual colour by taking the current colour from the manual selection. This doesn't work Setting Ambiente_Fahrprofil_Individual to 7 makes the accent colour constantly change (~twice per second) between the colour set in Fahrprofil_7 and the colour set via the manual selection... From what I've found so far, this is down to the SW version of the CAN gateway.

2.0 TSi with DSG now showing on Drive The Deal. Almost £6k discount off a standard spec hatchback. Wow!!!

PS. I forgot the part where I still haven't figured the process of how to to remove the boots from the knobs with the 2 knives and 4 hands he describes... I think an intercooler install might be simpler than this

Hi Fux, The air recirculate button is the 2nd from the right at the top of the picture. (With an icon showing a circular arrow in a car) Chris

It is a picture of a car with a circular arrow shown within the car.

You are talking about mirror dip, not folding mirrors! Two completely different things. Folding mirrors turn themselves in when locking and unlocking the car. I had mirror dip put on my previous VRS but haven't missed it on my PFL

I think for any car, the diagnosis would be similar.... 1) do the doors have individual fuses? If so check them. 2) when operating the central locking, does the bad door make any internal sound? If not, then it is either the solenoid (kind of the motor) or power to the solenoid (like maybe a wire off or corroded connector somewhere, or a bad earth). If there _is_ a clunk there could be mechanical issue with solenoid or linkages to the lock.... It will all be a nuisance finding it :( but not too costly for parts if needed

1.5 petrol

The couple of times I needed parts I found getting them directly from a Skoda dealer to be the quickest and often cheapest option.

If you replace battery as soon as sign coms up, you have no problem.

So, I’ve now done the boot, bonnet, wheel arches front and rear, engine skid pan and both underbody protection panels. I used 2mm butyl/aluminium sheeting (9kg, 2sqm) and rubber bitumen paint. +some EVA mat under the rear seat. I have not done the inside rear arches just the external. The aim has been to minimise overall road noise on Australian coarse chip bitumen. Has it been a success? Well, yes and no. The noise has changed. It’s much less harsh, more bass and boom. Overall more bearable for me in the cabin. But still nothing on my old 2011 Mondeo or the 2014 Pug505 I had as loaner last week. The fact I can now hear the boominess in the rear is testament that the butyl has helped with the higher frequency vibrations 👍🏻 I’m disappointed. Don’t think o can live with it as it stands. Up to 100kph it’s quite good, but I do many hwy miles at 115-120kph (70mph) and it just doesn’t stand up at those speeds. I guess now to look at the door sills and internal rear arches, anything else will just go in the too hard basket.

Would also recommend you use a good brand of battery, Duracell, Energizer etc as these tend to last longer. change the battery and then go to the car an use it and it wont lose any sync settings. If you look underneath the drivers door handle, there is slot in it which you can put the end of your key in an twist it (careful of the paintwork) and off will pop a plastic cover. There will be a lock under that to open the car with the key if the battery fails to unlock remotely. The user manual has a picture of this in the "locking and unlocking sections" if you have it?

Bad times. But if it helps, all my tyres are ok

Hi Ken All I did was to lock the car with Kessy and then place the key alongside the drivers door on a worktop in my garage and waited >5 minutes without moving it. After the wait I attempted to open the car by grasping the handle (The normal Kessy way). The car did not unlock! I then moved the key a couple of inches and tried again & Voilá - it opened! Hope it helps......Tony

1.5 petrol estate on 17” wheels is very quiet on the move. I understand they’ve improved both the aerodynamics and the soundproofing since the Mark 3.

Hi, There is no switch fix for the superb unfortunately (at least according to my dealership and Skoda UK who acknowledged the fix exists for other models). The total bill for the gearlever replacement was to be an eye watering £900. That said, two, possibly helpful, points: 1. Because our car is under 5 years old and has a full service history, Skoda UK offered to cover 40% of the bill. 2. Most importantly though, the repair is technically unnecessary. Provided you are seeing exactly the message I originally posted the total impact of the fault is that you will periodically see the warning message. It does not in any way affect the drivability, safety or MOT status of the vehicle. Ultimately it is simply the car saying: 'I have two switches that detect when I'm in Park (one is in the gearbox itself and one in the lever). Occasionally, these switches momentarily disagree with each other (it's always the one in the lever at fault if you are seeing the message in question). As a result, please be totally sure you have left the car in Park when you exit the vehicle because I'm not going to be 100% sure and so might not warn you if you forget to put the lever into 'park' before leaving the vehicle.' Because the switch in the gearbox is the one that actually determines the functionality of the gearbox when driving, the one in the gear lever does nothing. Only when the car is stationary and the engine switched off is the switch in the lever actually used and, even then, only to check that you've left the car in P before exiting the vehicle. So, it's up to you, but the 'unofficial' advice to me from the dealership and Skoda UK representative was simply to ignore the warning and live with it. In most cases it only occurs infrequently and does not deteriorate over time. Hopefully that is helpful.

+2, I never turn the aircon off. (Never noticed any difference in fuel consumption either whilst trying driving with it on or off either) Heated windscreen is a near essential for me as well. Wouldn't buy another car without. I had it years ago in several Fords, then went without for a superb and two Yetis. Third Yeti had it and brilliant. Now my Karoq has it and I have already had to use it this autumn.

That may be so, but my dealer is over 20 miles away. I did mention it to them and they did suggest that i take it in. In any case the data connection which was turned off has now switched itself on, so i have been able to register the car and i'm also getting software updates coming through. The system is ok, but with out the data connection working you can't do much. The system does have its benefits esp if the car is ever stolen it would def assist in the recovery of it.

Turned out to be the wires broken on mine too, a bit fiddly to fix but after watching a YouTube video I had a good idea what to do. First real fault in 5 1/2 years of ownership, not bad really.

Ok.... its going to cost twice what I expected, add weight, get hung up on green lanes, be dangerous, may not even be legal, may cause more damage to the car in a small prang,.... I think you guys have persuaded me against the bull bar. The front of the Yeti is handsome enough as it is.

Hi Mark, here is a screenshot of the long coding from my history, hope this helps 👍

UPDATE: FIXED. Cheap outside temperature sensor from the scrap yard. Wired in, temperature immediately popped up. Cleared codes down using cheap OBD tool and nothing came back. Many thanks to everyone for all the help and advice.

Basically when you make up your mind whether Skoda uk are right (5 years) or sometime a long way in the future (official Skoda Workshop manual).

I’d have thought the floor would be in the lowered position to maximise boot volume for official figures. The only way to confirm is to measure yourself I guess...

There aren’t a lot of folk who like posting about detailing tbh. As you said, a few years ago Chrisrs (And others) used to post a bit, but he ran his own company so kinda had a vested interest in it. I did post a thread earlier this year but it didn’t get much interest even though (IMO) it was very informative and had loads of decent pictures. I will post my work only on detailing world now due to the lack of interested people on here.

I just got mine back from the same issue. New temp sensor, new gate motor and as my fan had been sticking, I got a new one of those too. (under used car statutory warranty)

The DQ200 DSG has not long to go in the various VW Group cars. There will only be 1.0 & 1.5 TSI's with mild hybrids & a DSG. That will have them pulling away under battery power.

Well for the power mine is developing it’s worth every penny. “I pity the fuel” 🤣

Sorry, no. One person's "Must Have" is another person's "Junk". ps - primer grey is not a colour

Gloss Metallic Chameleon Purple Blue wrap using Teckwrap USA . The metallic chameleon finish brings out the muscular lines of the Superb and accentuates the side profile spectacularly as well.

Ok so I went out just to get a "feel" for the installation. Removed the DSG boot and realized there's a metal clamp that keeps the knob assembly fixed on the gear stick. This need to be cut off apparently but nothing is mentioned about its replacement... Even if one gets the same VAG item clamp i believe it needs a particular type of pliers to be installed which I don't think I have. I wonder if a strong zip tie could be used instead although I don't like to improvize on this stuff too much. There is no mention of it at all in the installation post as far as I could tell Also, I had a look at the service manual for removing/installing the DSG handle and i believe I am in the situation described where the knob button has been already pushed in (and that's why I wrote it felt fixed and fully depressed a couple of posts above). According to the manual that could end up destroying stuff if attempted to be installed like that so a special tool is needed to push the button back out which *guess what* i also don't have, although I could come up with something. I believe the guy in the installation post resolved this via lots of patience and some fishing line? Sounds like that's what he refers to. Oh and the red plastic shaft shown in the installation being inside the knob assembly is not included in my replacement knob so i guess i need to transplant it from my current knob, before I fix the button out It doesn't seem a trivial installation at all to be honest...