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Hi everyone! I have recently purchased an O3 VRS. I had some experience with VW group vehicles but now it's time to the check's OEM. As you can see, it's a white 245hp 370Nm DSG combi with the following extras: Virtual cockpit Keyless entry Electric tailgate 19" Xtreme wheels Electric panoramic sunroof Heated front seats Lane keeping + ACC Rear view camera I'm sure that I'll learn a lot here and I'll try to contribute as much as I can!

Remove the bodies from the boot and take another picture.

I just leave mine on the Auto setting throughout the year, with the internal temperature set to 21 or so.

I have a Garmin forerunner, its never more than 20m out over the course of a semi-marathon, they have KM markers and mine triggers within meters and you can hear all the other watches beeping in proximity to it. Its worth the investment for the functionality of the app, if I zoom in very close on the map of a run I have done I can see the different lines taken through bends on the outward and return legs, even where I have walked to the side of the verge to take a leak.

Your rear springs are shagged, the car is dragging its ar5e like a dog with worms

An article in German (with subtitles in English) about some of the software "features" early adopters will enjoy. Some are minor, some are more annoying. Other problems not mentioned in this piece have also shown up however, such as the 12v battery issue, flaky keys/keyless entry, flaky sound systems etc. Personally I'd not be putting any money into VAG EV's of any make or model until it's all sorted. Only reason they've released them before the systems are working properly is to avoid billions of euros of fines for not hitting emissions targets for the year.

If battery is like for like type & Ah is fine no coding required..the car will learn over time that a new battery has been fitted. Changing the serial number 1 digit tells the module that a new battery has been fitted. AH capacity & type MUST match that of the battery installed...

The bolt on the pully end of the high pressure fuel rail had become slack enough to allow number 1 injector to spray fuel out into the engine bay. New seals on all 4 injectors and new bolts fitted with lock tight and back on the road , cost £192.

For those of u who have heard of the MK7 Golf GTi Intake Mod, I did a similar thing to my Superb's air intake, by opening up the blocked off bits on the right side. However, with the Superb, doing this alone won't be as effective due to the design of the front grille and the plastic moldings behind it. The reason for this is because top half of the Superb's grille is actually blocked across, with air only allowed to enter through the bottom half. This means the air going into air intake is restricted by two openings feeding the intake. For it to be effective, you need to also unblock the right side opening that sits behind the grille. This will allow a more direct air flow, meaning a happier turbo and hence better performance combined with my CTS turbo inlet elbow, silcone pipe and aFE Magnaflow air filter - it not only feels better, but it sounds good too. I won't explain how to modify the actual front air intake as there are plenty of YouTube videos on it. This will show the modification required specific to the Superb, that remove the restriction caused by the blank plate. Mine is a 162 TSi (220). The same would apply for the 206 TSi (280). Unfortunately there is no other way to make this mod, but to remove the entire front bumper in order to open up the blocked off panel. The top black plastic cover is fixed to the top of grille, hence can't remove that to access it. The entire grille is fixed to the bumper, hence can't remove that to access it. so its a whole bumper off job. again, i won't explain how to remove the bumper, but its a wheels off, wheel arches off and underbody skid plate separated job. below are some pics. this is the bit i'm referring to - from factory the right side is closed:- left side open:- right side closed:- the air flow on the left is unobstructed, and flows up and into the intake, most of the air going into the engine bay (as the back is open), and the rest travelling right towards the air intake box. this is the end result, i made holes in the panel on the right, thus enabling air flow to go directly up and into the air intake. Comparison of before and after. originally my intention was to move that blocking plate, so it looks like the one on the left. but it is one piece with the entire black plastic. only way was to cut it out. unfortunately again, that black plastic is metal riveted to the frame surrounding the bonnet release bracket. grrrr. so i went with plan B and drilled holes. finished product - sleeper factory look factory the only giveaway being the silicone intake hose pipe.

So intelligent use of the stop start saves fuel, reduces pollution and means you have an engine which is much more resistant to wear. By turning it on and off with the button depending on the situation you get the best if both worlds

Stop start cars have starter motors designed for a huge number of starts. Stop start does not work unless engine is ok to use it. Lots of parameters including engine temp, battery state etc to decide if on or not. You will notice the engine starts near instantly with little turning by the starter motor. The engine stops at the right point in the cycle for near instant restart. It is so easy to turn it on or off with the button that I change it many times in a trip. On at traffic lights or when pauses are likely to be long. Off at junctions and roundabouts where I want no hesitation going for a small gap. Off in slow stop start traffic. Don't forget that you can restart the car with a slight wiggle of the steering wheel if it has stopped at a junction or lights and you want no hesitation before moving off

The pcb mounted back up batteries in the alarm have failed & leaked acid over the circuit board, disconnect it!

Yep, I don't really get the point of removing it. Sure, water repellant coatings can work, but a wiper is fitted as standard and is better. After driving a saloon car for over a decade I appreciate the rear wiper. I don't really buy that it makes any improvement to the aesthetics either, I don't think I'd even notice. Until I drove it and it rained. 😂

Yes I well remember driving with open quarter-lights to keep the windows clear, and the rear window totally misted up (only after-market stick-on window heaters fitted)! And buying clip-on plastic window gizmos so you could drive with the side windows partly open to get a draught.

Ours has been called the "Dumpster" from day one

thanks for that wino

You don't. Use it if you need to be cooler than the coolest setting on your temperature dial, or if the car is getting misted up. No need to use it any other time. A small amount of refrigerant circulates all the time on modern clutchless A/C systems (like in your car) even when the system is switched off, so the argument about 'seals drying out if you don't use it' doesn't really apply.

I enabled it on my 65 plate tsi with Carista, you either have to have the subscription or like I did did it in the free subscription period. I have since bought OBD11 though, HBA works fine.

Relevant thread here

Hi Shugmo. My MY17 superb does exactly that. Other skoda's auto park. Skoda tech told me it was deliberate so snow would not build up stopping them 'rising' if the screen is covered in snow. He could not explain why the courtesy car i had didnt do it, or any audi, ford etc. It is a setting that can be changed via coding. Along the lines of 'park when ignition off' change inactive to active. For ignition the wordibg used is terminal 15. It was in an octavia vcds thread and you can see the setting (in the tear wipe section) in the superb vcds thread.

I went and bought one guys. A 2012 1.6 CR TDI Octavia. One owner, full service history....nice car. I drove it and it feels like a new car but it has the 5-speed box and ive heard these can be a bit flat in terms of performance. It seamed ok to me when i test drove it but then i havnt had chance to try a lot of other cars of the same spec etc. I might consider getting it re-mapped at some point to increase the power a little from its 104bhp so can anybody recommend a decent tuner in the Sheffield area pls?

Do what ever you desire. I was only suggesting it is maybe easier for you to try than others to guess what happen with your car.

Turn the car off and move the wiper stalk and it will park in the 'Service Position'. A Post It note to remind the good lady to press the Stop / Start button to off. (It is not wearing out the engine or the starter.)

Try putting your heating / temp to the highest it goes and put on the A/C.

If you buy a diesel and do loads of short trips, then I think that you could be opening yourself up to engine issues with limp home mode and regen problems. If you do decent runs to/from work or regular longer distance, motorway and dual carriageway stuff, then diesel may well be a viable option. But if you are doing mostly short trips and town centre driving and infrequent longer distance journeys then a petrol engined car would be more appropriate.

You're welcome. I have had masses of help on this site myself and although there have been a few minor spats with a few members here and there, it has been one of the best sources for help, information and the occasional larf!

i really do feel like an idiot right now, all along i was checking out the brake lights and not the tail lights. really sorry guys, i just sorted it literally 5 mins ago. many apologies :(

Fuse 17 for left, 18 for right. If it is the fuse, the sidelight at the front will be out on same side.

Yep

I had this happen in a storm one night, and it was repaired to an undetectable level using PDR.

There are places that can perform tests on the ABS block controller including connecting it to loads, but that would mean taking the car off the road for a few days probably. I can sympathise with you, back in the darker days when these Bosch ABS controller had not much in the way of self checking, I had a slightly used 1991 VX Cav GSI 2000 16V 4X4, and while under used car warranty it switched on its ABS light, I booked it in, "front near side sensor faulty", paid my part of the repair supposedly cheaper than "doing it the other way"??? - this was the VX main dealer and seller of this car. Drove 4 yards, ABS light back on, turned round and demanded they sort it next day, handed it it next day, "replaced front off side sensor", same thing, the next day "replaced both rear sensors" - I asked if they could diagnose this system and they absolutely, and I asked if they had been road testing after repair again "absolutely". The weekend arrived and I unplugged the ABS controller and carried out impedance testing both down the cable and into the ABS controller and also spun each wheel in turn and measured the low voltage output from each sensor, everything pointed to a failed ABS controller ie a failed single channel, so back I went with this info only to be told that they had the diagnostic tools and were fit to use them, the car came back that evening "replaced both front sensors, road tested by workshop foreman and passed", same thing after roughly 400 yards, a bit more than just annoying as this was happening in deepest winter where ABS is quite handy to have! After contacting the service manager, I got a phone call from the service desk to say that they were ordering in a new ABS controller and and would contact me when it arrived, a few days later they did make contact, I drove round to the workshop, and waited as I knew where the controller was located, under the passenger side door sill trim, and that was that all sorted after a total of 6 wheel sensor replacements then the expensive ABS controller, I was only ever charged for the single ABS sensor replacement also luckily I worked only a 100 or so yards from that VX dealership! So, 2 years later, the ABS light came on again, this time as it was out of warranty, I handed it in to a proper Bosch workshop, they reported that VX would not have been able to extract any fault codes from that version of Bosch ABS controller, so had just been guessing, also, each time they had removed a sensor they had binned it and its PTFE sleeve so every ABS sensor fitted after that without a PTFE sleeve was a time bomb as its aluminium sleeve/body reacted with the cast steel hub housings and the salts generated forced the ABS sensor casing to implode sort off and short out the windings - nice! I had reason to re-visit that dealership after it moved sites and ended up chatting to the same service manager who assured me that nothing like that could ever have happened, it must be nice to live in a magic world where you can only do good things.

Is it 4x4? Or has your engine been nicked?

All done for the winter :-)

I find that textile mats always seen to get grubby no matter how hard you try and keep them clean. I just wanted something easy to clean especially with kids in the car. Once fitted I think they look good as they fit perfectly and are designed for the car but each to their own.

@defiant- I reckon it's to do with meeting emissions and not being "noisy" as that's not wat moat "customers" want. But yes, baffles me why they make the air work so hard to get to the turbo inlet.

I believe all these ‘faults’ are more down to personal taste. Assists can be turned off. plus I’ve never had a issue with wheel spin pulling away in the 1.5tsi dsg, maybe being more gentle with the acceleration or check tyre tread?

Bit confused by this, if it's a 245 it should already have folding mirrors, mirror dip and needle sweep. My 2017 pfl has that as standard. Not that I really get the attraction of the needle sweep, it serves no useful purpose at all and I don't generally even notice it most of the time. It certainly wouldn't be worth any effort in implementing IMO

@boydeee- I had a go at trying to remove the top plastic bit to access the back of the grille - but it was going to b a pain in the a55 and given that I didn't know wat challenges I was about to face with the blocked off panel bit, it was going to b a far better working space with the bumper off.

You mean 97% of the bits from Range Rovers have fallen off and left on the road?

I started to update my logos and what I have observed still now. Factory preloaded logos are bigger... For starter, I followed 98x80 rule (196x160 with png had resizing effects). For square logo it worked best, but it was not as big as preloaded logos. 160x80 gave best result for horizontal oriented logos, they occupied preset box horizontally end to end. I have not figured out what kind of pixel ratio will fit exactly to preset box from top to bottom. I have MY17 Skoda superb MIB 2.0 Bolero. If I fit square logo in 160x80 png, it was smaller on headunit than 98x80 png. Another topic, does anybody know whay MIB 2.0 has white background on logos?

I did that about 3 yrs ago.......

Turned out to be the rack itself, tech who did the work said the rack had quite a bit of rust internally / under the boots. Changed the rack and track rod ends (because why not) and car is all good.

I'll just add what most have said. I have just bought a Superb too. went for the hatch versus the estate as I didnt need size, plus I think the hatch looks better. I also looked at Octavia, both hatch and estate, but got sick of looking for the spec I wanted (leather, heated seats) and also wanted 4x4 which meant diesel in the Octavia. I also looked at Seat Ateca's but we'll not get into the SUV argument! I stumbled across a 280 4x4 SEL-Exec quite by accident locally and just knew I had to have it. Its a great car. Boot is big enough. Has everything I need spec wise (OK heated screen would be nice) but the power it has is great, and on the flip side if you drive it economically you should be able to get 35-40mpg out of it!

Very true I'm afraid. I enjoyed my car time. Started with Austin 7's stripped and re-bodied (my first cost me £7.50!!! no battery) But the 750 club in those days was home to the likes of Colin Chapman who became Lotus. His correspondence to the magazines covers his development of the first Lotus 6 . He was just like everyone else a petrol head playing at chassis stiffness etc. Great days! i still have a longing to build a Bugatti type 35 on a Triumph GT6 chassis, but it's a dream only these days . I have built a Lotus 7 lookalike since I retired though!! Stay safe mate!

Dare I ask, why would you remove the rear wiper? You're not going to be able to see a thing when it rains 🤷🏻‍♂️

I bought a 2006 Octavia that had had that issue from new, literally thousands spent over the years every MOT and service time claiming to have found and fixed the fault, even charging for a new airbag which I can state categorically from investigation had never been fitted. I removed the connector at the front of the seat rail and used Wago 223 connectors on each core but to my surprise the fault returned twice again and I was onto the merry go round of resets and wondering when it would happen again, then I found out that there was a second connector tucked up under the seat squab, I released the seat rails to tip the seat up to find it and there was indeed one and giving it a push & pull resulted in a satisfying click and the problem was finally resolved after 13 years! No question about the connectors under the carpet trim mouldings at the front of the seat rails are problematic but big feet pushing under the seat are equally likely to disturb the hidden unknown connector.

i reckon you could, if you stop every 10 mins for a recharge or you have a solar farm hooked onto the back of it