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Hi everyone! I have recently purchased an O3 VRS. I had some experience with VW group vehicles but now it's time to the check's OEM. As you can see, it's a white 245hp 370Nm DSG combi with the following extras: Virtual cockpit Keyless entry Electric tailgate 19" Xtreme wheels Electric panoramic sunroof Heated front seats Lane keeping + ACC Rear view camera I'm sure that I'll learn a lot here and I'll try to contribute as much as I can!

Remove the bodies from the boot and take another picture.

I just leave mine on the Auto setting throughout the year, with the internal temperature set to 21 or so.

I have a Garmin forerunner, its never more than 20m out over the course of a semi-marathon, they have KM markers and mine triggers within meters and you can hear all the other watches beeping in proximity to it. Its worth the investment for the functionality of the app, if I zoom in very close on the map of a run I have done I can see the different lines taken through bends on the outward and return legs, even where I have walked to the side of the verge to take a leak.

Your rear springs are shagged, the car is dragging its ar5e like a dog with worms

An article in German (with subtitles in English) about some of the software "features" early adopters will enjoy. Some are minor, some are more annoying. Other problems not mentioned in this piece have also shown up however, such as the 12v battery issue, flaky keys/keyless entry, flaky sound systems etc. Personally I'd not be putting any money into VAG EV's of any make or model until it's all sorted. Only reason they've released them before the systems are working properly is to avoid billions of euros of fines for not hitting emissions targets for the year.

If battery is like for like type & Ah is fine no coding required..the car will learn over time that a new battery has been fitted. Changing the serial number 1 digit tells the module that a new battery has been fitted. AH capacity & type MUST match that of the battery installed...

The bolt on the pully end of the high pressure fuel rail had become slack enough to allow number 1 injector to spray fuel out into the engine bay. New seals on all 4 injectors and new bolts fitted with lock tight and back on the road , cost £192.

For those of u who have heard of the MK7 Golf GTi Intake Mod, I did a similar thing to my Superb's air intake, by opening up the blocked off bits on the right side. However, with the Superb, doing this alone won't be as effective due to the design of the front grille and the plastic moldings behind it. The reason for this is because top half of the Superb's grille is actually blocked across, with air only allowed to enter through the bottom half. This means the air going into air intake is restricted by two openings feeding the intake. For it to be effective, you need to also unblock the right side opening that sits behind the grille. This will allow a more direct air flow, meaning a happier turbo and hence better performance combined with my CTS turbo inlet elbow, silcone pipe and aFE Magnaflow air filter - it not only feels better, but it sounds good too. I won't explain how to modify the actual front air intake as there are plenty of YouTube videos on it. This will show the modification required specific to the Superb, that remove the restriction caused by the blank plate. Mine is a 162 TSi (220). The same would apply for the 206 TSi (280). Unfortunately there is no other way to make this mod, but to remove the entire front bumper in order to open up the blocked off panel. The top black plastic cover is fixed to the top of grille, hence can't remove that to access it. The entire grille is fixed to the bumper, hence can't remove that to access it. so its a whole bumper off job. again, i won't explain how to remove the bumper, but its a wheels off, wheel arches off and underbody skid plate separated job. below are some pics. this is the bit i'm referring to - from factory the right side is closed:- left side open:- right side closed:- the air flow on the left is unobstructed, and flows up and into the intake, most of the air going into the engine bay (as the back is open), and the rest travelling right towards the air intake box. this is the end result, i made holes in the panel on the right, thus enabling air flow to go directly up and into the air intake. Comparison of before and after. originally my intention was to move that blocking plate, so it looks like the one on the left. but it is one piece with the entire black plastic. only way was to cut it out. unfortunately again, that black plastic is metal riveted to the frame surrounding the bonnet release bracket. grrrr. so i went with plan B and drilled holes. finished product - sleeper factory look factory the only giveaway being the silicone intake hose pipe.

So intelligent use of the stop start saves fuel, reduces pollution and means you have an engine which is much more resistant to wear. By turning it on and off with the button depending on the situation you get the best if both worlds

Stop start cars have starter motors designed for a huge number of starts. Stop start does not work unless engine is ok to use it. Lots of parameters including engine temp, battery state etc to decide if on or not. You will notice the engine starts near instantly with little turning by the starter motor. The engine stops at the right point in the cycle for near instant restart. It is so easy to turn it on or off with the button that I change it many times in a trip. On at traffic lights or when pauses are likely to be long. Off at junctions and roundabouts where I want no hesitation going for a small gap. Off in slow stop start traffic. Don't forget that you can restart the car with a slight wiggle of the steering wheel if it has stopped at a junction or lights and you want no hesitation before moving off

The pcb mounted back up batteries in the alarm have failed & leaked acid over the circuit board, disconnect it!

Yep, I don't really get the point of removing it. Sure, water repellant coatings can work, but a wiper is fitted as standard and is better. After driving a saloon car for over a decade I appreciate the rear wiper. I don't really buy that it makes any improvement to the aesthetics either, I don't think I'd even notice. Until I drove it and it rained. 😂

Yes I well remember driving with open quarter-lights to keep the windows clear, and the rear window totally misted up (only after-market stick-on window heaters fitted)! And buying clip-on plastic window gizmos so you could drive with the side windows partly open to get a draught.

thanks for that wino

You don't. Use it if you need to be cooler than the coolest setting on your temperature dial, or if the car is getting misted up. No need to use it any other time. A small amount of refrigerant circulates all the time on modern clutchless A/C systems (like in your car) even when the system is switched off, so the argument about 'seals drying out if you don't use it' doesn't really apply.

Relevant thread here

Hi Shugmo. My MY17 superb does exactly that. Other skoda's auto park. Skoda tech told me it was deliberate so snow would not build up stopping them 'rising' if the screen is covered in snow. He could not explain why the courtesy car i had didnt do it, or any audi, ford etc. It is a setting that can be changed via coding. Along the lines of 'park when ignition off' change inactive to active. For ignition the wordibg used is terminal 15. It was in an octavia vcds thread and you can see the setting (in the tear wipe section) in the superb vcds thread.

I went and bought one guys. A 2012 1.6 CR TDI Octavia. One owner, full service history....nice car. I drove it and it feels like a new car but it has the 5-speed box and ive heard these can be a bit flat in terms of performance. It seamed ok to me when i test drove it but then i havnt had chance to try a lot of other cars of the same spec etc. I might consider getting it re-mapped at some point to increase the power a little from its 104bhp so can anybody recommend a decent tuner in the Sheffield area pls?

Do what ever you desire. I was only suggesting it is maybe easier for you to try than others to guess what happen with your car.

Turn the car off and move the wiper stalk and it will park in the 'Service Position'. A Post It note to remind the good lady to press the Stop / Start button to off. (It is not wearing out the engine or the starter.)

Try putting your heating / temp to the highest it goes and put on the A/C.

If you buy a diesel and do loads of short trips, then I think that you could be opening yourself up to engine issues with limp home mode and regen problems. If you do decent runs to/from work or regular longer distance, motorway and dual carriageway stuff, then diesel may well be a viable option. But if you are doing mostly short trips and town centre driving and infrequent longer distance journeys then a petrol engined car would be more appropriate.

You're welcome. I have had masses of help on this site myself and although there have been a few minor spats with a few members here and there, it has been one of the best sources for help, information and the occasional larf!

i really do feel like an idiot right now, all along i was checking out the brake lights and not the tail lights. really sorry guys, i just sorted it literally 5 mins ago. many apologies :(

Fuse 17 for left, 18 for right. If it is the fuse, the sidelight at the front will be out on same side.

Yep

There are places that can perform tests on the ABS block controller including connecting it to loads, but that would mean taking the car off the road for a few days probably. I can sympathise with you, back in the darker days when these Bosch ABS controller had not much in the way of self checking, I had a slightly used 1991 VX Cav GSI 2000 16V 4X4, and while under used car warranty it switched on its ABS light, I booked it in, "front near side sensor faulty", paid my part of the repair supposedly cheaper than "doing it the other way"??? - this was the VX main dealer and seller of this car. Drove 4 yards, ABS light back on, turned round and demanded they sort it next day, handed it it next day, "replaced front off side sensor", same thing, the next day "replaced both rear sensors" - I asked if they could diagnose this system and they absolutely, and I asked if they had been road testing after repair again "absolutely". The weekend arrived and I unplugged the ABS controller and carried out impedance testing both down the cable and into the ABS controller and also spun each wheel in turn and measured the low voltage output from each sensor, everything pointed to a failed ABS controller ie a failed single channel, so back I went with this info only to be told that they had the diagnostic tools and were fit to use them, the car came back that evening "replaced both front sensors, road tested by workshop foreman and passed", same thing after roughly 400 yards, a bit more than just annoying as this was happening in deepest winter where ABS is quite handy to have! After contacting the service manager, I got a phone call from the service desk to say that they were ordering in a new ABS controller and and would contact me when it arrived, a few days later they did make contact, I drove round to the workshop, and waited as I knew where the controller was located, under the passenger side door sill trim, and that was that all sorted after a total of 6 wheel sensor replacements then the expensive ABS controller, I was only ever charged for the single ABS sensor replacement also luckily I worked only a 100 or so yards from that VX dealership! So, 2 years later, the ABS light came on again, this time as it was out of warranty, I handed it in to a proper Bosch workshop, they reported that VX would not have been able to extract any fault codes from that version of Bosch ABS controller, so had just been guessing, also, each time they had removed a sensor they had binned it and its PTFE sleeve so every ABS sensor fitted after that without a PTFE sleeve was a time bomb as its aluminium sleeve/body reacted with the cast steel hub housings and the salts generated forced the ABS sensor casing to implode sort off and short out the windings - nice! I had reason to re-visit that dealership after it moved sites and ended up chatting to the same service manager who assured me that nothing like that could ever have happened, it must be nice to live in a magic world where you can only do good things.

Is it 4x4? Or has your engine been nicked?

All done for the winter :-)

I find that textile mats always seen to get grubby no matter how hard you try and keep them clean. I just wanted something easy to clean especially with kids in the car. Once fitted I think they look good as they fit perfectly and are designed for the car but each to their own.

@defiant- I reckon it's to do with meeting emissions and not being "noisy" as that's not wat moat "customers" want. But yes, baffles me why they make the air work so hard to get to the turbo inlet.

I believe all these ‘faults’ are more down to personal taste. Assists can be turned off. plus I’ve never had a issue with wheel spin pulling away in the 1.5tsi dsg, maybe being more gentle with the acceleration or check tyre tread?

You mean 97% of the bits from Range Rovers have fallen off and left on the road?

I started to update my logos and what I have observed still now. Factory preloaded logos are bigger... For starter, I followed 98x80 rule (196x160 with png had resizing effects). For square logo it worked best, but it was not as big as preloaded logos. 160x80 gave best result for horizontal oriented logos, they occupied preset box horizontally end to end. I have not figured out what kind of pixel ratio will fit exactly to preset box from top to bottom. I have MY17 Skoda superb MIB 2.0 Bolero. If I fit square logo in 160x80 png, it was smaller on headunit than 98x80 png. Another topic, does anybody know whay MIB 2.0 has white background on logos?

I did that about 3 yrs ago.......

Turned out to be the rack itself, tech who did the work said the rack had quite a bit of rust internally / under the boots. Changed the rack and track rod ends (because why not) and car is all good.

I'll just add what most have said. I have just bought a Superb too. went for the hatch versus the estate as I didnt need size, plus I think the hatch looks better. I also looked at Octavia, both hatch and estate, but got sick of looking for the spec I wanted (leather, heated seats) and also wanted 4x4 which meant diesel in the Octavia. I also looked at Seat Ateca's but we'll not get into the SUV argument! I stumbled across a 280 4x4 SEL-Exec quite by accident locally and just knew I had to have it. Its a great car. Boot is big enough. Has everything I need spec wise (OK heated screen would be nice) but the power it has is great, and on the flip side if you drive it economically you should be able to get 35-40mpg out of it!

Very true I'm afraid. I enjoyed my car time. Started with Austin 7's stripped and re-bodied (my first cost me £7.50!!! no battery) But the 750 club in those days was home to the likes of Colin Chapman who became Lotus. His correspondence to the magazines covers his development of the first Lotus 6 . He was just like everyone else a petrol head playing at chassis stiffness etc. Great days! i still have a longing to build a Bugatti type 35 on a Triumph GT6 chassis, but it's a dream only these days . I have built a Lotus 7 lookalike since I retired though!! Stay safe mate!

Dare I ask, why would you remove the rear wiper? You're not going to be able to see a thing when it rains 🤷🏻‍♂️

i reckon you could, if you stop every 10 mins for a recharge or you have a solar farm hooked onto the back of it

I have just bought a 2014 mk3 1.6 tdi. I had the same problem with poor heater and discoloured coolant in the expansion tank. i tried the heater flap reset but this did not cure the problem. After trawling this forum it looked like the heater matrix was the fault. i checked the coolant pipes at the bulkhead as they go through into the heater matrix and they were just better than luke warm. I did a ring round of the usual suppliers and the best i could get a matrix for was £90 inc vat. I'm in the trade so this was with trade discount. buycarparts.co.uk kept popping up on my browser so i thought i would take a look. The company is based in Germany but their prices are much much cheaper than anyone else. So i typed my reg number in and was given something like 15 options of manufacturer of a heater matrix that would fit my car. I opted for the cheapest one £20.99 inc vat plus delivery of £8.50 3-5 working days. it was manufactured by VAN WEZEL based in Belgium (checked their website). Part came 4 days later unboxed it and all looked ok. drained the coolant from the car and removed and binned the mit silikat expansion bottle. a Quick shake of the bottle revealed the bag was still in there but it was the one placed between the walls of the bottle so no chance of getting it out. A new bottle was sourced from GSF as they had a deal on but in hindsight i should have ordered it from Germany and just paid one lot of postage. Coolant system was flushed out with the hose pipe until it ran clear and left to drain. Moving inside the car i removed the glovebox which was very tricky but i later watched a youtube video and it could have been a lot easier but i got it out with no damage and all of my skin still on my fingers. The side trim for the centre console was removed, one t20 screw and the panel just unclipped. there was a foam trim under the heater motor that was held in with two plastic wing nut type screws this came off to reveal the heater motor that needs to come out to enable the matrix to be removed. The motor is held in with 3 t20 screws and there are two clips that need easing away to enable the heater to drop down but before this you need to unplug the power connector underneath. Sorry forgot to say before the heater motor comes out there is a heater vent that directs air to the passenger feet, this needs to come out and there is one t20 screw that holds it in, the screw faces you just by the fusebox, once this is out you have to contort the vent out after pulling it free of the heater box. It was a bit fiddly but it came out ok. With all these parts out if you look towards the centre console side of the dash you will see the heater matrix pipes. covering the heater matrix is an oblong black cover held on with 3 t20 screws. the screws need removing and there are 3clips that also secure the panel. I covered the floor area with a plastic sheet to contain any leaks from when the matrix pipes were removed. The pipes are secured by a clip and a clamp. the top pipe has a clip that has a locking tab that needs to be lifted before the clip can be slid backwards to remove. The bottom pipe has a clamp that is held together with a 3mm allen bolt. Before removing the pipes there is a plastic piece that bolts to the transmission tunnel (it's what the t20 screw that holds the centre console trim screws into) peel the carpet back and there are 2 10mm nuts that need to be removed. Once this is out of the way it gives more movement of the heater pipes as they need to be moved to enable the matrix to slide out. A quick tug on the pipes frees them from the matrix along with 200ml of coolant ( i had an old ice cream tub on hand to catch as much as i could). Once the pipes are removed you can then unclip the oblong cover that covers the end of the matrix. It has a green seal all the way around presumably to help seal the air into the heater box. As stated earlier the pipes need to be jiggled around and the matrix should slide out towards the heater motor housing, it will hit the housing but then a slight movement downwards will let it come past and the matrix is out. I looked inside and could not see any blockages but when i filled it with water it did not flow very well. Fitting the new matrix is basically a reversal of the procedure above. things to be careful about are: when sliding the new matrix back in be sure to get your head right up behind the matrix to make sure the top pipe is not fouling the fins on the back of the matrix as this will hinder it going back in. The new matrix i got seemed a little tighter to fit than the old one that came out but i took my time and made sure it went in evenly to make sure it was fully home. remember then the oblong cover needs to go on before any pipes are fitted. I cleaned the pipes and re used the old o ring seals and just put a tiny smear of rubber grease on the o rings which helped them slide back into the new matrix part number of the seal and clamp kit is 5Q0-898-400-A same part number whether sourced from VW SEAT or SKODA but VW are the cheapest at £5.51 whereas Seat and SKODA wanted £9.91!! getting the top clip on for the pipe was easy but the bottom one gave me a bit of pain. I think because it was slightly out of round where i had removed it but i took it back off and fitted it to the old matrix to make sure it was shaped properly. After all this i refilled the coolant and what i am about to type may not be to everyone's liking but i filled the coolant with G12 as it's what we use on the commercial vehicles we repair that have aluminium radiators. Also we run a fleet of VW caddy vans and i checked our 67 plate caddy that has the same engine as my octavia and the coolant tank on the caddy states G12?? Unfortunately i did not get any pictures but there are videos on youtube of this repair being done. Book time is 1.4hours, probably doable if you worked at skoda but i would allow 3 hours to comfortably do it. like most things if you take your time and watch youtube so you have an idea of what is involved then doing the matrix on one of these is not a scary prospect. Tools wise i used T20 screwdriver 10mm socket and ratchet 1/4 drive ratchet with T20 bit for rearmost heater motor screw Flat blade screwdriver 3mm allen key Torch and that's it! Heater now works a treat with heat evenly at both sides. Hope this helps

My Skoda Fabia registered at the end of August 2016 (model year 2017) was delivered to the dealer straight off the assembly line. Earlier in this thread, I have described my experiences when the fuel leaked and the subsequent experience at the authorized dealer. I received a copy of information about the manufacturer's work to resolve the problem. The problem affects 1.2 TSI and 1.4 TSI engines (CZE*, CZD*, CHP*, CJZ*, CYV*) New equipment was implemented in the producion process to automatically tighten the rail bolts in week 25 of 2018. Sold vehicles with the problem need to have the rail, injection gaskets and all rail mounting bolts replaced. The rail mounting bolts should be tightened to a torque of 10 Nm.