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I have just recently replaced my 2018 Karoq SE L 150 TSi DSG with the same MY21 model with the addition of a Digital Cockpit and heated windscreen. Thus far I have noticed the following changes to the spec. Gone are: The DSG paddles on the steering wheel The SD slots on the Infotainment unit The 2 small LED lights in the overhead consul 2 of the 4 hooks on the rails in the boot The torch The elasticated hook which helps retain the boot floor in the upright position Whats new are: 19" Crater wheels 2 spoke steering wheel with revised push button layout MIB3 Infotainment system USB C ports replacing the older USB A ports Different stitch pattern on Alcantara seats SOS button in overhead consul With regard to the 19" Crater wheels, which are shod with Bridgestone tyres, the jury's still out at the moment. I am finding the ride a bit harsh and the tyre noise is louder than the 18" Michelins that were on my previous Karoq. Also, I shall need to be careful when parking near a kerb as there is little or no protection for the rims. As for the new MIB3 Infotainment system, it appears to be the same hardware with just a change of software (perhaps in the upcoming facelift the Infotainment unit might get changed to that which is now being provided in the Kamiq and Octavia?) Whatever, I am gradually getting my head around the new system. The one downside with is that with the loss of the SD card slots there does not appear to be a way of importing your own POI's e.g. safety cameras. The POI's which are inbuilt are great if you wish to find a hotel/type of restaurant etc as there are numerous of these on the system. You can manually search for POI's direct from the system, as it is always connected, alas safety cameras are not on the database. If someone has found a way of importing their own POI's perhaps they could share it? The map itself is nice and clear but due to current restrictions I have not been able to drive too far to check out different locations etc. I have noticed that the information on the map is not being updated regularly, for the map continues to show roadworks which I know were removed some 2 weeks ago. If updates are this slow then it could affect someone who is reliant on route guidance to reach somewhere as they could be diverted miles off their original route in order to get around a problem which is not actually present! The Digital Cockpit is really good, the trouble is that there are so many combinations of display I keep changing them to see which one I prefer the best. No doubt I will settle for one particular display eventually. One thing I have learnt and that it doesn't appear that you can have the map on both the cockpit screen and the main screen (not that you would probably want to), you have to have one or the other. I have actually had the opportunity to use the heated windscreen and I can say that it works very well. The screen has no visible wires unlike previous versions. Overall I remain impressed with the new Karoq and I thoroughly enjoying driving it.

is the time right yet? edit. we may be waiting, he hasnt been on since sept 2018... wonder did we miss the right time?!

right, who thought about this out loud recently to allow the collective unconscious drag this thread up again....

" 1) Clock and trip mileage reset themselves; " In previous cars I have owned, this can be the first indication that the battery is on the way out. When the car is started the voltage drops low enough for these to reset themselves. Check the battery voltage after the car has been standing for a day or two. Should be 12.5v or above.

Nope. Cornwall Council did though. Found it didn't work in any noticeable way. https://www.cornwall.gov.uk/media/35430057/cc-electrolyser-trial-summary-report-oct-2018.pdf " The results of the tests were generally inconclusive. Neither electrolyser provided any consistent results for emission reductions or fuel savings, and in some cases these increased."

Quantum can be had for £25-£30 delivered from the popular auction site

No need for drag, just dress up in your old uniform as a pictures is worth a thousand words. Brian Sheard must really be raking it in these days.

Why would I waste money on something that I know objectively cannot possibly do what its makers claim? Whatever you might choose to believe, it is a matter of fact that this device can't work.

I eluded to a sticking piston in my first reply

http://bbc.co.uk/news/business-54695188

That will mostly depend on your tyres, and on whether anyone gets in your way!

No problem Dave, and welcome to Briskoda, by the way. Your Fabia is fairly chock-a-block with control units and it's not really the case that the engine ECU is the main brain, just the main engine control. The interior light, door locking and even oil level monitoring are not within its scope of operation. Oil level (and temperature) data are processed by the instrument cluster itself, which is a control unit in its own right. If you're handy with a soldering iron, reflowing the solder joints of all the connector pins from the two connectors on the instrument cluster circuit board can solve a number of problems, especially where the misbehaviour is intermittent/inconsistent. Here's an image showing the various 'brains' around your car. Clockwise from the top: ABS, Instruments, Central Convenience, Engine, Power Steering, Airbags and HVAC (heating +A/C). In the middle, is the unit that arguably is in overall charge, referred to by a confusing array of different names, Onboard supply Control unit, Vehicle Voltage Control Unit, Body Control Module etc. It is the hub of all communication and control activity, co-ordinating everything else. It is located above the accelerator pedal on RHD cars. What has been used to try to read engine fault codes? To the best of my knowledge, if the warning light has been on, there will be codes stored, they just may not be readable by every device capable of connecting to the OBDII socket. Try to find a local member or garage with VCDS, an aftermarket system that talks 'properly' to the VW-group systems; that should be able to find any and every stored fault code, in any of the above modules/ECUs. If the door-related faults are happening every time, I'd say it might be a broken wire or two in the bellows, but if they are more unpredictable and sometimes work as expected, more likely the door-open microswitch on the lock module (or its wire solder joints onto the circuit board inside).

We're back after 3 long months off the road! Car fully assessed - no damage to the chassis or any of the suspension, etc. The project continues - here's to the next 10 years 😎

They are just sitting on the respective servers without being wrapped in the web page to trigger the download off. All of them are incredibly difficult to manufacture. The high ones need the VW keys which I don't reckon anyone has. For non believers that they are all the same files from whatever source you do a hash check on them: https://www.raymond.cc/blog/7-tools-verify-file-integrity-using-md5-sha1-hashes/

I have no idea which Electronic Control Unit you're referring to, but it (whichever) would be absolutely the last place I would look for a solution. They tend to be far more reliable than the things with moving parts like microswitches and wiring looms between body and doors. For 1, check cabin fuses first, a permanent 12V feed may not be getting to where it should if a fuse has blown. Interior light oddities and relocking are both consistent with the door-open microswitch either not working, or its status not being conveyed to the relevant control unit because of broken wiring. Mk2 Fabias are infamous for the wiring near the A-pillar snapping within the door bellows. It's a poor design, low quality wire, or both. Investigate this area first.

This should help.

This suggest that wet braking might be really poor!

Thanks Robjon

I was the same, hence why I rebuilt my front calliper rather than buying a new one. You'll need to check the condition of the piston and the hole it sits in for a buildup of rust. If there's too much in there you may have to buy a new calliper anyway. I hope you've caught it in time so all you have to do is give them a good clean with a wire wheel on a drill

there i brought the tools il keep you guys update on the progress , i want for the rebuild the caliper option , never done it before so yea wish me luck =)

Hi Bigade1 Thanks for the step guide on this as it has worked a treat as i now have the alerts top job

I've leased it direct from Kia, who have ADL as their finance arm. Because I took it over 4 years (3 for the Karoq), I'm paying about £10 per month LESS than the Karoq cost me, ( I did reduce my mileage projection), and that includes the full maintenance package ( puncture repairs / replacement tyres, 4years RAC cover etc). I did shop around (Car Wow, Select Leasing) but found the Kia deal the best overall. Incidentally, despite having taken delivery of the car a week ago, I've not paid a penny for it yet - ADL don't want anything until the 20th and my £500 deposit was refunded by the dealership on the collection day !

I would have expected it to at least be showing 50*oC after 10 miles and when that is the ambient temp. Any 1.4TSI i have driven, or any TSI in the past 10 years are at 50*oC and rising by 10 miles covered even when the air temp is at freezing or below.

it does if you change the setting for it

I'm heading into the third winter with my Vredestein Quattrac 5 (205/55/16). Not driven on any snow yet, just a bit of ice one day. Even when driving up to Buxton. They are fine all year round and provide excellent stability when hitting flood water. The only down side is a tendency to get wheel spin on damp and bumpy roads. I usually drive in eco mode as well. I just want to try them in snow before they wear out.

ah, I've not released the bonnet mechanism. I'll have a look at that tomorrow sometime. Thanks.

I would price up a seal kit and new piston vs a new calliper, assuming you have the tools to do the work yourself.... but potentially, yeah, calliper may need replacing

Everyone is missing the elephant in the room, its not the ragged seal that is causing the brake to drag, the caliper piston is siezed with road dirt ingress and rust, the caliper must be stripped and refurbed. Do not just fit a dust seal and hope for the best, you are risking not just yourself and any passengers but other road users, pedestrians etc. Imbalanced rear brakes will at best cause the vehicle to not brake in a straight line, at worse to lose control. Those seals are a pig to fit even after refurbing a caliper, I did find a way to make it a little easier but it was still a fight, I cant recall how now. New calipers from China are so cheap now that its barely worth the cost of seal kits to refurb, I gave up after several attempts because the self adjust mechanism was constantly giving grief and bought new Chinesium calipers. Maxspeedingrods is a competitive seller for calipers, turbos, aircon pumps etc as well as forged steel conrods.

I don’t know of any guides that you can follow, but the calliper will need to be removed to replace the seal. As it’s a manual handbrake, the piston will need to be wound right out and removed so the seal can be replaced, then wound back in. Again, this is an assumption as I’ve not done it on a rear calliper yet, it do have two that I intend to strip and rebuild at some point (from a MK1 Octavia vRS)

Just a detail there - as I have a "borderline" 2015 Fabia. CarPlay became a possibility after Week 21 2015 - which was the end of May 2015 ( the MY16 changeover date ). If prior to that, my memory of it is, that it is not possible, at all, to fit a VW/SKODA unit with CarPlay ability. There was a lot of angry people on the forum here, back then. After that date, it is possible. The radio you need to look for @nickwa is a Bolero or Columbus. As JGrindel says, you will need to bring it to aSkoda dealer to have the Carplay/Smartlink Coding activated. Ignore the Mirrorlink part as it's almost useless. A Skoda dealer will also be able to tell you, if you don't already know, the exact build date for the car. Maybe its on your handbook, or the Skoda App, if you put the VIN number in. Hope you have success with it @nickwa

That's a copy of the old Sony Vaio UX I always wanted one of them but had absolutely no use for it.

Good point. Any chance the car is still on its original factory-fitted battery? (Having a VW/Skoda part number on the top surface is often a clue to this, if you aren't the first owner and don't know.)

Not only Fabias & Roomsters, but also Yetis. I'm on a Yeti-specific Forum where owners of early Yetis have reported all manner of seemingly unrelated faults caused by broken wires in the door bellows. Not sure about Fabias but later Yetis used a modified wiring loom to overcome the problem.

Audi S1 brake calipers

Thanks. At the top of the image, there are two clips and 7 screws. Once those are undone, the plastic above the grill under the bonnet should come away. I've managed to get to six of those screws and the two clips. The middle (final) screw I think can be accessed through the pop-off bit in the grill in front of the radar sensor. The sensor needs removing though which is risky. It's either that way, or whole bumper off job.

UPDATE The outside temperature dropped by some 5-10 degrees. The BCM started to command the alternator to charge harder (for the same electrical load I have used for the last 2 weeks). The voltage on battery stays at 14.7-15.1V 90% of the drive time. In the morning I have measured a higher and higher voltage. Today the voltage was 12.4V. We're getting there... My conclusion so far is that the firmware in the BCM seems to know how to handle the SOC of the battery. Not having access to the firmware source is a drawback but given the proper free time I could deduct the charging strategy by studying relevant logs.

Yes the small cap on drivers door handle comes off to reveal the lock, you can use the key blade. I suppose gain entry, check battery, charge (if dead) and see if it all works (and how long it lasts). Either something has drained the battery or like mine it literally gave up overnight. My battery on my 65 plate Octavia lasted 3 years so you've done well. I just got like for like AGM Halfords own brand and fitted myself, it came with 4 year guarantee and at time of selling a few years later it was fine. You are supposed to tell the car the battery has been changed (VCDS OBD etc), its less of an issue I believe if its like for like - i didn't do mine and i didn't have any problems.

If manufacturers used some common sense and put engine block heaters in their diesel (and petrol) hybrids, I’d be inclined to buy one. A warm engine is far more efficient than cold as we all know, and with how little an ICE is used in daily use (infrequently but not 100% electric only) it makes a lot of sense to me.

Out of interest then are cornering fog lights legal? I've nearly lost count of the number of curbs I've run into when turning because I didn't see them - Let me think - Ah yes, None, but somehow the manufactures convince us we need a new super feature to differentiate the new model from the old...

I haven't tried it yet but carpro perl should suit your needs. From what I've heard and seen on youtube it lasts several weeks(of course depending on the weather). There are also products from different manufacturers with similar effect - sonax, meguair's.... Here is a link to a really good detailing channel that tested Carpro perl:

Pod point wall charger installed today, a brilliant job done. The tethered cable is 7.5 metres long & easily reaches the connection point at the front of the car ( I prefer reversing into my drive). Just had to test it !! I needed 83 miles to top up fully, & despite being a damp, dismal day with minimal solar power, it cost £3.16p in total. Petrol cost approx £10 for that mileage, therefore about £7 saving already ! I know it's an expense to get the car, wall box etc, but in my humble opinion, as I was due to change cars anyway, it's well worth it, PLUS, I'm helping save the planet !!

Horses for courses... try getting the 2.0TSI in any other trim. And I much prefer the look of its painted bumpers, and seats.

Ah brilliant, thanks a lot. I must be the same ....

Replaced with the Octavia RS 245hp 370nm TSI lump.

2015 Fabias never came with Car Play, so you will need the new radio screen and control box. (they are two parts on the Fabias) You will need to find the radio up to 2017 as after that they facelifted the Fabias and not sure if those radios will work 100%. Radio screen - 6V0919604B Radio Control - 5Q0035842B Link to example sale - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2017-Skoda-Fabia-MK3-NJ-5-DOOR-HATCHBACK-Radio-Kit-5Q0035842B/233746927756?hash=item366c67108c:g:nfYAAOSw7K9fiHMg (NO CODE supplied so skoda would need to sort)

Comes up a lot. Lots of threads on here asking the same question. Best to talk of engine series, EA113 (main timing belt drive) vs EA888 (main timing chain). EA888 is the later design, seen in the facelift Octavia 2s. Or use engine codes - BWA (earlier) or CCZA (facelift). Forget TFSI vs TSI. The facelift was badged Tsi but in registration and official documents it says TFSI - both are just marketing terms and mean the same thing anyway..... Both had certain problems. Possibly the EA888 is the most prone to meltdown due to the timing chain tensioner losing tension. Latest revision tensioner and chain is a must IMO. Also can suffer from piston scraper ring clogging which eventually causes a lot of oil usage but not all are impacted. Long life extended miles servicing can make it more prone to problems. Time and distance preferred.

So many beauties.

Oils have moved on since 1960. My wife's Karoq has the same 1.5TSi petrol engine and was registered new in Jan 2018 and had it's first oil change in October 2019 at 18,700 miles and is currently on 27,300 miles and the inspection oil service is due sometime next year either at around 37,000 miles or October 2021 whichever arrives first. Really nothing to worry about with modern fully synthetic oil.