Leaderboard

Firstly, many thanks to the posters on here and elsewhere who have documented the EGR issues, and solutions. My 2010 2.0 110 Yeti 130k miles started showing the management light and some times heater plug light. Car always drove very fine, but this is MOT fail. It started to go into limp mode occasionally, so I thought the end was near. Garage quoted £1k to scare me, but did diagnose EGR "failure". I followed the advice on removal and cleaning, including reversing exhaust gas pipe orientation. Four very oily hours later I had finished. Lots of white spirit and toothbrush. My wife was astonished car even ran! The flap valve was not able to open or close fully, causing the management lights. Car passed MOT, low emissions, runs fantastic. No Cost. Car even did a regen, which it hadn't done for ages. Now, several months and 100s miles later, all is still good. Just goes to show a DIY fix is sometimes more than good enough.

Don’t waste your money. Mine was mapped to stage 1 on a 2 year old filter and plugs. Ran fine 290+ Bhp and 480NM. Buy 99 RON and change your oil at sensible intervals.

@bspman Just like all the Classic Fast Fords and others that i wanted when they were new and were many many times more than i could afford and were not automatics. Currently i have my eye on a Alfa Romeo Giulia that is an Auto, in red and the car i most covet. Only issue is i am £69,000 short to be able to buy it.

You are not the only one. The only indication I have that the valves are working is the clicking sound just after engine start.... Inside the car, nada, can't tell if it's open or closed. Still, it's got it and that's +20horsepwrs

The engine if standard will get more than enough air from the standard filter. The foam filter will allow it to draw the same air but with a better flow through. The foam filter will also happily accommodate stage 1 mapping. You could replace the intake with something like a racingline unit if you felt the need for more surface area over your intake, at that point or if you went stage 2. Personally, i wouldn't be drilling the snow grate. Its there as a moisture control measure.

I bet those would be significantly cheaper from TPS.

I was just thinking of the GR! (and how I'm unlikely to ever afford no matter how much I want one)

The issue is that there are genuine from genuine sellers and fake / snide from others, so unless a trusted seller you have no idea what might arrive until they do. Not all fakes are crap, they might be pretty much as good as the genuine, but then you need to find that out by using them. Good fakers do not make it easy to identify fake products, be that and consumables and safety items like Brake Parts, Steering, Suspension etc.

It would be an upgrade but not for the reasons you're suggesting! My stage 1 is actually neck and neck with a stock M340i in the 0-100km/h and 1/4 mile runs clocking between 4.1"- 4.2" and 12.1"-12.4" respectively. For the M340i to be an upgrade on a straight line compared to my current car I'd need to have it mapped as soon as I got it otherwise I'd feel pretty annoyed having spent nearly twice as much as the Superb to only match the Superb's performance But honestly it's not power or engine performance at all that I'm missing with this car or that drives me into considering one of the cars I mentioned. Being already as fast as it is without even touching the exhaust and with plenty more to be unlocked should I want to go down that road, it's the least of issues really. What I would like is a firmer handling with a better body control and some extra playfulness and adjustability when pushing on. Upgrading to Bisltein B6 seems like the minimum next modification, maybe even coilovers although the fact that I could retain my factory adaptive and adjustable suspension with the B6's, but with firmer operation across all modes is probably all the adjustability I need, plus I am happy with the height it currently sits since the Eibachs went on. More importantly, I might JUST have come across a solution regarding the behavior and the playfulness of the car but I don't want to speculate too much before I know or try it out so it could be that the tables are turning towards sticking with it and making it much better and closer to what I am after, we'll see.

Just for fun, I VCDS logged my coolant temperature and oil temperatures to show what's going on. Coolant clearly easier to warm than oil, not surprising really Ambient temps around 13C at the time, this was a normal run from home to an A road dual carriageway and at about 4.6miles my oil temp hits a reading on the Maxidot of 50C. I think the bump in the oil temp was probably just getting to around 60-70mph and I had to accelerate to get out into lane.

Once the system has detected a failed bulb it will remove the supply from that bulb, hence you only see 0.6V or so; the actually voltage depends on the input resistance of your meter. There are two common cases. One is a poor earth connection at the negative wire to body stud on the left hand side wheel arch area. As your other bulbs are working this is an unlikely cause. The second cause is poor contact with the bulb, or at the cable connector. This is more likely on a 13 year old car and has been reported before.

As I'm currently isolating I decided a Haldex oil change was probably overdue, and I had no excuses. 2016 Scout 60k miles, with Gen 5 haldex. I always change my own engine oil and filters, but unless I had found the info on here , I wouldn't have known of the Haldex oil and filter issues. I do use my Scout on gravel roads, grass and snow, so I knew the system was working, but didn't want a needless breakdown. I ordered the kit from haldexrepairs.co.uk, and at £46.30 inc delivery I think thats good. All you need, including syringe. I used ramps and found access easy. The guides on here and a couple of Youtube vids (search for vw alltrack gives good USA vids) showed me the way. If you can change engine oil, then Haldex oil is well within a DIY job, only needs a few hex and torx keys, plus ice cream tub. I removed the control unit to give me enough slack cable to remove pump, as getting fat fingers to the connection was impossible. My filter was truly clogged up, with fibrous gunk. Cleaned, and refitted with new seals. Refilling is easy with syringe. A quick prime of the pump, a run round car park in 4x4 mode, top up again, and its done. The oil in the kit is just enough to do the job. I will change it again in 20k miles and see if there is a difference then. Thanks again to the people on here for their good work. Saved me other garage bill!

195/60R16 is the correct sized spare wheel. The idea is to use it as a get you home measure, ie. a space saver. Drive carefully when driving on different sized tyres and don't exceed 50mph (80km/h). I doubt there would be space for the wide 215/45R18 to fit. Also, a 195/60R16 tyre on a steel rim is much cheaper than a 215/45R18 on an alloy rim. You can't get 18" steel rims that fit the Kamiq.

Change them all to 195/65R15 or 195/60R16 so that the wheels are all the same size. 18" look silly on the Kamiq because you only need 14" wheels to clear the small 256mm diameter front brake discs. It's possible that the more powerful versions of the Kamiq have front discs bigger than 256mm. Even if the more poweful Kamiq models do have front discs with a diameter bigger than 256mm, I doubt any model would need more than 16" wheels. 6Jx15 ET35 5/100 57.1 Steel Rims https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/2q0601027t03c-steel-wheel-disc-skoda-38412.html 6Jx16 ET35 5/100 57.1 Steel Rims https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/2q0601027h03c-steel-wheel-disc-skoda-38410.html

High miles on a youngish car is a difficult one. If you see the history has regular oil change and some other bits then it's probably ok but I would be looking for a once over* to be sure. * Oil change/filter Air filter Fuel filter Pollen filter Brake fluid Check all suspension joints/components for wear DSG oil (if never done then it definitely needs it. Otherwise due at 40k so worth doing early to be sure)

I could never pay that sort of money for wiper blades, I have always used cheap as chips refills from Maccess, they are no longer trading but I had a big stock. My last 2 vehicles had Bosch Aérotwins and theres no doubt that they are very good, but bloody pricey! Standard refills wont fit them but I found an Ebay seller that has the correct profile and sells 2 lengths of 650mm for £5 so I bought 3 sets, have yet to try them as the originals are still working well. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bosch-Aerotwin-Wiper-Refill-650mm-1-Pair/233287195473?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 The Bosch Eco wipers are an overpriced badged rip off made of Chinesium and you should not pay any more for them than from Lidl when they have them, they are good value and work well.

Having read a few UK reviews on the base 4 series model, it looks like the size is considered to be a bit of an issue. In particular the very long doors coupled with the girth of the car. It's a problem I have with my F82 model, so I imagine the M4 (G82) will be even worse PLEASE don't post reviews of the standard car in here (you know who you are) as the G82 is a very different car to the G22 and there are a huge amount of reviews on the base model, which would swamp this thread if we start to post them. We can all simply post a link that we can't be arsed to read in the first place and make sensible comment on.

OK as an Emergency Spare wheel to get you to a place of safety or a puncture repair. Reset the TPMS when you fit it, reduce your speed since you have a temp wheel / tyre on of a different size / weight / tread & tyre pressure. Best check you have the socket for your security wheel bolts, that you can get all the wheels off, and use the jack.

That's an example of a Octavia with a 5QA 919 283 C module fitted so the lcode might be correct for your car. However, I would suggest you use it as a base and check each bit/byte. Typically, VCDS gives a short description for known bits so read the description and make a decision based on that...

I popped to my Dealer today and got my account verified, I still can't lock or unlock through the app. It's not a big deal, however annoying none the less that the car won't do something you were advised that it was meant to!

i put a little bit of fast glue on both sides on point where pops out (just to be sure) ready for instalation

So the car has a Warranty underwritten from whoever , but then if a Main Dealership does the work with genuine parts there is a 2 year guarantee / warranty on parts and labour. That might actually be better than what the Cars Warranty is covering, so worth having IMO.

My 2p worth .... service - yes. cambelt - no, too risky for me to try without the proper tools. waterpump - probably but only IF it can be done without disturbing the cambelt.

Confirmed this morning - drove to work and within a mile or so the oil temp gauge started to move above 50C and the water temp gauge on the digital display didn't move even though the water temp on the clocks rose happily to 90. A quick flick from the dials to the (ridiculous) lap timer and back and the water temp was then showing 90. Driving home after lunch, I fiddled around with the gauges after starting the car, and within 2 miles the water was at 90 and the oil was about 60. So I now know the oil and water both warm up nice and quickly but the fancy display doesn't work reliably. Ho hum.

Yeah George. Along with Miami and Rio. See my post up there 👆

Could the high mileage be the reason as it is almost double (ish) the average mileage for the year.

Try Ebay BOSCH A860S, £18 upwards.

SWF are the OEM and they are, imho and experience, much better then Bosch Aerotwin. If you can find SWF go for those instead.

I doubt those from the dealer would have worked too well as they'd appear to be made out of gold.

@Stuart-h - Who did you use for the re-map? If / when the dealership identify that the car has been remapped, they may directly attribute the 'fault' to the map and will charge for it outside of warranty. Wouldn't know costs of replacement / fix, as they haven't yet identified the root cause yet. It would be worth calling the re-map company to query if they've experienced this sort of issue post-map before with other customers, and if there is a fix for it. If not, it's still useful information for them so that they can log these sorts of issues to identify any trends going forward.

They just clip on and off; i.e. they are trivial to fit.

by the looks of that, there is plenty of room in and around that plastic flappy bit above the ACC radar ur right, they went overboard with the clips and screws to secure the grille!!!

I would start furthest away from the master cylinder. I.E LHR calliper first and work round the car anti clockwise. Last time I refreshed the brake fluid on my I simply drew about 1/2 ltr through each calliper. However, I have a big pressure bleeder so I could do it on my own and didn’t have to keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir. You don’t want that emptying and drawing air into the system.

Progress Update - i just went back and checked... my first attempt at running what turned out to be an almost 5k took me... over 35mins, probably closer to 36.. my time today is a new Personal best at 24m 31s. so, i have shaved 12mins, ish, off my time over the past nearly 4 months of running, and im able to carry on and function for the day like im looking for where both my lungs fell out... Im a happy bunny! also. i have new routine plan in my head - mornings only, leaving before 7am. Mon. Tue, Thur, Fri. it gives me the weekend off so a shot a lie in... and it gains a run per fortnight compared to the current every second day plan. dounle gain

Not a big fan of smoked rear lamps, they look like they are tainted by diesel soot, like a 10 year old car!

I have had to replace 1 Pair of Night Brakers since 2016. I made a tool up to make the bulb removal / refitting easier. I haven't needed to remove the battery. Thanks, AG Falco

This should help.

Thanks both - what I expect I have is a software bug or dodgy sensor (likely the former as I've no warning lights etc) Took it out this evening and within about a mile of slow driving in town (slow, but no traffic) the temp was showing over 50C and rising. Considering that I deliberately did a couple of long climbs at lunchtime, the latter with the throttle buried in the carpet and the display happily showing 110kW and 30 something boosts (can't remember the unit but the gauge was all the way round), I can't believe that the oil temp didn't reach 50C I checked the oil level and that's fine, so it seems that turning it off and back on again has answered my question - the oil temp goes up quite quickly :-)

I've leased it direct from Kia, who have ADL as their finance arm. Because I took it over 4 years (3 for the Karoq), I'm paying about £10 per month LESS than the Karoq cost me, ( I did reduce my mileage projection), and that includes the full maintenance package ( puncture repairs / replacement tyres, 4years RAC cover etc). I did shop around (Car Wow, Select Leasing) but found the Kia deal the best overall. Incidentally, despite having taken delivery of the car a week ago, I've not paid a penny for it yet - ADL don't want anything until the 20th and my £500 deposit was refunded by the dealership on the collection day !

I don't want to disagree with anyone, but attached is the access available with the grille off. I went nowhere near the ACC unit. Granted I wasn't going near the air intake either though so I'm not sure if things would be different in that respect. On refit, I didn't use all the grille screws. I don't think I put the bottom ones in. They kind of went overboard with their fasteners and clips usage!

I've been out in the car tonight and only managed to find a DLA setting which was turned on already. An off/on didn't sort it and neither did a lock/leave. Time to up the ante with a soft reset - but that didn't work either. Contemplating a partial infotainment reset and thought to check the light switch position. Lo and behold it was in the dipped beam position and not auto! Problem solved but I'll leave this here as a reminder to firstly check the obvious.

Update: I noticed the sensor wasn't at a right angle to the road, so I got out a measuring tool and adjusted it so each side of the sensor was the same distance away from the bumper in the hope it fixed it, and it did!

Rough rule of thumb is that any Superb with engines rated at 250Nm or under will have the 7 speed dry clutch and engines over 250Nm will have either the older 6 speed or newer 7 speed wet clutch. So 1.4tsi/1.5tsi are dry dsg and 2.0tsi/2.0tdi are wet 6/7 speed wet dsg. Not sure what the output of the 1.6tdi is but same rule. If you dig deep enough in other manufacturers forums you will see that all dry dsg variants have had issues. The VW versions were particularly bad in hot and humid countries like Australia but this issue was related to the lubricant used and was fixed by a lubricant specification change a few years back. The UK seemed to have nowhere near the problems experienced here presumably because of a more temperate climate. Having said that the 'dry' clutch packs can wear prematurely depending on the driver and regular traffic conditions. Again a bigger problem in Australia where drivers are used to torque converter automatics and the use the constant drag they provide on hills or light use of brakes at lights and constant stop/start conditions. This would wear out a manual clutch and I presume the two individual clutches in a dsg are smaller than a manual clutch? Brits are more used to driving manuals than Aussies. It is interesting to note that a few recent variants of VW/Skoda models are being released here with torque converter boxes fitted, consumption is quoted as worse but that is not a problem here as we are 15 years behind Europe in applying consumptions and emissions controls The 'wet' clutches are far more durable and can cope with the sort of adverse aussie driving habits I mentioned. If I were buying new then I'd be happy buying a dry dsg equipped car (we get 5 year standard warranties here) but buying second hand then I think the wet dsg is a safer bet. As another generalisation you will get about 8 to 10 mpg better consumption with a 1.4tsi/1.5tsi compared to an equivalent 2.0tsi but if you are only doing low annual mileage then the extra cost per annum will be minimal. A Superb is too big for my needs but in your situation buying a second hand car I would probably plump for a 2.0tsi despite the extra costs associated with fuel, road tax and wet dsg oil changes if only because there is a bigger selection available to you and a reduced chance of inheriting someone's issues. If buying new then I'd probably go for the 1.5tsi. As recommended by another, get as many test drives as you can as there are definitely good ones and bad ones out there and in my experience the difference is noticeable

@SkudMissile21 I didn't know too. I discovered that "accidentally"...

60k Kms is pretty impressive to be fair! And for the price is also very impressive. You tend to find the cheap tyres significantly compromise on longevity in order to boost grip and performance to perform better in the tests.

Southern Cairngorms / Angus Glens today.