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Well, 7 weeks ownership of my Kia e Niro and now feel "qualified" to state it's GREAT ! Over the initial 300 miles of use (limited for obvious reasons), and it has cost just £7.13p , approximately £30 less than my Karoq would have cost for the same mileage. I have taken advantage of the free to use Tesco / Pod Point chargers and used my home wall box twice (standard tariff), hence the £7 bill ! Mileage now is greater, but haven't topped up yet so latest figures not available. I'm with Octopus & have discovered they've a much cheaper tariff so will be swapping to it soon. The car itself is also great ; I'm overall VERY impressed with both the quality and driving experience, my thoughts of "What have I done ??" during the waiting delivery time now totally banished and I would recommend the Kia to anyone contemplating, as I did, a "time to change". Best wishes to all, stay safe & stay well.

The car has been parked overnight in a barn in rural wales for the first 3 years of its life, or it may be local. I threw a rugby ball in its direction and it hid, so suspect its probably Welsh.... Useful tip regarding removal....Thanks

Here is the 2007 brochure new_octavia_quickv1.pdf

In all seriousness, Briskoda is one of the biggest niceties of owning a Skoda

I've ordered some B6 front shocks from Demon Tweeks as they were cheaper than B4's from Euro Car Parts. I doubt they will show up as the price seemed too good to be true and the website stated 'in stock within 8 days' or something but we will see.

Part 2 tonight at 8.00 pm after 'On the road'. Hopefully better than last nights which was at least 45 minutes longer than it needed to be to IMO. A car manufacturer has a web page telling you that their car won EVO COTY 2020. PS As for On the road. ? What is with Tiff and whoever walking away from the cars they have just been driving in. But then what a load of guff with their drag races.

If you can't find a good replacement might be worth getting a 'smoker' just to keep the policy live?

As your profile says you have a 2006 car, I assume you want the 2006 brochure? PDF attached for the 2006 brochure. Octavia 2006 Brochure.pdf

It's been on UK/EU petrol engines for quite a lot of years now. Most if not all of this century.

@shyVRS245 Ah but! They were / are supposedly 'Amateur' sports people who were getting funded by 'Lottery money' and grants / funding to Associations. But then Sir Andy Murray is a relatively young & currently a Professional. Sir Bradley Wiggins. Former Professional. Sir Nick Faldo Professional. & many others in Professional Sport get honours.

Also check inside the multiplug if its damp or has green corrosion build up on the plugs as I had an issue on my Oct 2 Xenons and water in plug was the issue.

You should download the workshop manuals for your car from: https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do Failing that, it'll probably be in a similar location to the MK7 Golf: - http://www.vwgolf.org/overview_of_fitting_locations_v_control_units_front_of_lhd_vehicles-2675.html - http://www.vwgolf.org/removing_and_installing_headlight_range_control_unit_j431_control_unit_for_cornering_light_and_headlight_range_control_j745_lhd_vehicles-2596.html The error code you posted is pointing at the front level sensor... I thought that was pretty clear from the description: Left front level control system sensor Open circuit/short circuit to B+

This is my first day as a pensioner,and it is winter. I must have something to do,got a Jeep engine. This is going to be an art installation,,,,,in my kitchen. Stay tuned.........

Hi all, I bought my ex regency services 2009 scout back in April 2018 as a temporary stop gap and to see if I could go down from a VW transporter to an estate car. It's been incredible with everything on it working and nearly 20k miles later apart from a few scars from its previous life, which it wears as badges of honour, there's nowt wrong with it. 175k and still going strong. One battle scar I've been toying with ironing out is a piece of plastic missing from the passenger wing. So I'm now trying to work out what it's called and where I can get it from. I've done the occasional forum and Google search and not found it. Any help will be appreciated. Cheers and merry Christmas to you all. Dan

To me at least, it would be great that way. Then again there's no vRS Superb that would officially justify setting that car equal to a Golf R's ride, and as I have said, Sportline DCC in Sport is pretty controlled and more than adequate for most owners so I see the logic behind it. I can also see how some would have found the car less comfortable with everything turned up a notch based on some comments of the stock ride already. What would be ideal would be either an extra "Race" setting and leaving all the rest as they are, or to have turned up only "Sport" mode while keeping the other two as they are.

There's a DCC mod going round that I thinks takes an Arteon dataset/parameter file to give a slider rather than discrete normal modes: Not sure exactly what's involved or any pre-requisites but it suggests you can go stiffer than sport - https://www.drive2.com/l/567978296046780450/

Another job ticked off the list today, despite it being a track car, it is also used on the road and the distinct lack of a radio was getting irritating. There's only so many times you can listen to vroooom tschhhhhh before it gets a bit samey so I liberated my trusty Kenwood from the loft and now we have tunes Little bit of a faff to get it working as the standard radio wiring has been hacked about with and originally the car came with all the Bose kit so it ended up being easier to just run some new wires from the fuse board under the dash. Anyway, all up and running and journeys that are longer than just nipping down the shops are a bit less lonely now.

I'm using KW850 and it allows me to see everything I need at the moment. My check engine did turn on after a few trips, but not immediately. I cleared it with my scan tool lol. (it will probably pop up again) I am still keeping the EGR disconnected, just to check what will happen with fuel economy. I will post an update after 100-150km As I have mentioned in the comment above, I will do everything that is in my power to try to reduce fuel consumption. If that leads to some power increase by mistake, it will just be another plus. The only thing I will not tolerate in this pursuit is power decrease.

Let's be honest who buys a 4wd, nearly 2 ton, 190bhp auto for high mpg? Mine does anything from 20 to 32 around town, if I'd have wanted mpg I'd have bought a fiesta!

When you can achieve that and rely on there being a charger available when & where you need it EVs will become a viable alternative instead of being only of minority interest.

The response from you re: HBA is encouraging. Lets hope they move that forward also.

Agree entirely with above. I have just received call from Skoda Customer Care asking for details of my numerous issues (despite having reported them on 8th Dec!!) but guy said let me have the list with screen shots etc and he would look at them with a view to rectification. Maybe we are starting to get somewhere at long last? Also speaking a a very helpful tech guy at my supplying dealership he confirmed that the following issues should be rectified by the replacement of the DSG Gear Control Lever: 1: Front assist, intermittently ‘not available’ 2: Rear traffic assist, intermittently not available 3: 3:

@Squaddie1980 As others have said welcome to the forum Where and how you drive can make a massive difference, I can tell you as a guide that my 2019 TSI 4x4 190 over 31k miles has averaged 36 mpg at the pump. It can go as low as 28 when in an urban environment (or if I have a lead foot) or up to 48 mpg on a long run on the motorway being very careful (but this can be boring!). I very rarely change out of normal mode to eco or sport. You may see the eco symbol appearing on the dash if you lift of the throttle lightly as it coasts, if you lift off quickly or brake it does not. I have used the fuelly app to monitor the consumption, so I’m sure that is accurate. I can also see that the mpg goes down a bit when colder. It’s always worth just checking the basics like tyre pressures and removing weight / roof bars, minimising use of accessories etc. to ensure you are getting the best mpg, but I’m sure you’re aware of this. I have also tried higher octane fuel (momentum 99) over a long period but nothing to note on mpg really (different debate) I went into ownership expecting a lower mpg than that of other models, but with the trade off of the bit extra grunt and the 4 x 4 which will inevitably reduce the mpg. I hope you get it sorted to your satisfaction and enjoy the car, the Sportlines do look very smart.

FTFY

Actually it's quite more complicated than just a fixed damping setting, it is constantly evaluating the conditions and damping (even at a macro level), I had read the details some years back, which is why it behaves so well The shocks are essentially the same between all MQB cars so it must be a matter of electronic adjustment, unfortunately no-one has come across a way to change this, hence why some who are after a really sporty ride but like being able to dial it back on occasion are switching to the B6 DCC (instead of passive aftermarket dampers with DCC delete for example).

That's the beauty of the DCC and OEM electronically adjustable suspension systems in general, on my 2nd DCC car and I don't think I'll ever have any other performance all-rounder without such a system from factory. Manual adjustment is fine for a track car but I wouldn't bother with it on my daily. That been said, on the Superb i would have like it a bit firmer in the Sport setting. It improved after Eibachs went on and I reckon for most would be ok but I like a firm ride.

https://www.bmwblog.com/2020/12/22/mini-jcw-toyota-gr-yaris/

If you want electronic adjustable damping, then you'll either need to retrofit DCC or an aftermarket solution such as the KW DDC ECU kit (which comes with it's own control module and BT app)... If you just want adjustable damping, something like the Bilstein B16 might be suitable as they have an adjustment knob on the shocks

Thought I'd raise this again. I recently contacted Noisekiller in Royton. They have a kit for the Karoq but haven't yet posted the fitting instructions on their website. They emailed them to me. Must admit I'm a bit daunted by the things you have to do. "INTERIOR OF VEHICLE 5 and 5a Undo the carpet kick strips by the door and slide these pads under the front carpets. Item 5a goes under front seat 6 and 6a These slide under passenger front carpet 6 a under the seat 7 and 8 These fit alongside the side of the transmission tunnel 7 to drivers side 9 & 10 These pads fit under the rear foot well carpets Pads Because of all the electrics in this area adhere these pads under the seat and on the upright of the frame" Access under the carpet doesn't seem too difficult "BOOT COMPARTMENT. 11* & 12* These adhere to the rear wheel arches side and top drivers side 13* & 14* Adhere to the passenger side rear wheel arch and top Pads 5 pads are included to fit on the rear wings" No idea how to remove the trim to get access to the inside of the side panels. The spare wheel and under boot carpet fitting (not quoted) seems straightforward. "PADS Adhere one pad to the outer skin of each door." The last door card I removed was in the 1960s on my Ford Anglia. I'm a bit wary of going inside the Karoq doors to get to the outer skin what with electrics and windows etc. Tom SKODA KAROQ 2017 onwards.docx

Hello Francesco, welcome aboard My first Skoda was a 2005 Superb. Smashing car and a great intro to the brand. Gaz

Similar story to you guys but since having regular NHS check ups every 5 years starting at age 45 I've noticed my weight steadily climbing and at age 50 I was recorded at a GP Surgery at 94kg then again at 55 I was now 98kg so 4kg gain in 5 years. Tend to do good long walks in the summer and on holiday but can't be bothered going to the gym, So during 2 weeks of quarantine jumped on a free gift from my Dad and didn't realise how addictive exercise can be. Now down to 92kg after over 700km on the fitness bike and it seems to burn about 100 calories every 10 minutes and today I have set myself a distance target of 40km and will update on my progress on my own thread. I'm now 56 and 6 feet tall. I think it is good whatever exercise we all take to look after ourselves because we owe it to our partners, family and most importantly to the NHS staff to stay healthy. Happy Xmas everyone who likes to cycle.

I ride a road bike and do 50 odd miles at least twice a week, lockdown #1 was hard work/boring solo but recently it's been 2, up to 6 when permitted. I've had a really good year and recorded the most distance since records began (2004 as just yearly paper totals, but since 2011 every ride recorded via GPS). I use a Garmin Explore GPS as a speedo - it will also do SatNav if I'm somewhere unknown, say on a tour - back in the day when that could be done. The Garmin website stores all ride data and I've just added a heart strap and cadence magnet to get those stats though only 15 rides so far. Heart rate average range 105-120, max between 146-172, leg rate averages 65-78 rpm. Resting heart rate is 57 just sat here. I'm 59, 6' 2" and 180lbs/82kgs. I incidentally was also 15 stone/95kg until I started cycling more regularly.

Hi, Had not even noticed that they did that, just checked and mine do that as well, looks good John

Yes they work with sportline springs. No they don't increase the ride height. they are definitely not more bouncy than OEM. the problem with the superb is that the OEM shocks are under damped, so they don't have great control over the rebound of the shocks. Konis will fix that. They are not a full on sport suspension, but are a massive improvement. have you ever mixed cornflower in water? When you do, you end up with a paste that's like water when you stir it slowly, but if you try to stir quickly the liquid turns solid. That's what the Koni shocks are like. If you compress the shocks slowly then it's like the OEM shocks, but if you try to compress the shocks quickly then they firm up. They get rid of any bounce, massively improve handling without compromising ride quality. For me, this is how the car should have left the factory. there's a picture of my car with Konis in the link, second post.

There hasn't been a post war motor racing driver knighted during his career. All 3 were long retired when they were awarded. The only active racers knighted were Segrave and Campbell (awarded for LSR achievements though). That said, I wouldn't be surprised if Hamilton is awarded...the Honours Committee seem far more egalitarian these days.

I was asked to step back by an official and I felt something under my foot!!!!! (they are very low cars and it was a bit of a rugby scrum at the time )

DMR yellow Camo grips now fitted, accidentally popped on to the counter at Run & Ride Milford whilst having a coffee... But no cake 😕 Riding position better with the slight rise on the bars I'll report back tomorrow on the grips, off out again for another mud-fest. 😁 S'cuse the **** poor pic, I forgot whilst outside 🙄

I had the voice control asking for instructions when I hadn't asked. I sais'switch off voice control' and it has stopped. I haven't tested it yet but I imagine if I press the speech button on the steering wheel it will reactivate voice control when I do need to use it.

I traded my Vitara at almost 5 years old and it was worth around 50% of the price I paid for it new! I haggled a separate deal on the replacement car so it was a fair price for the Suzy and not overly inflated to get me a 'price to change' It was a diesel and was incredibly economical and very reliable. It's a solid little thing, even if the materials are a bit cheap to feel. It's 4x4 system really works well, although you might not want to go seriously green lane-ing in it due to ground clearance being only a little better than a regular hatch. I now have the Hyundai Kona. A bit more premium inside and with a smooth DCT 7 speed box and a decent 4x4 system (centre coupling lock) it's as much 4x4 as I will ever need. The standard spec is huge, but the downside to the car is, in petrol guise at least, the economy is really poor. I have the 177ps version, but even so, it's not great in the mpg stakes. It is rather heavy for a small car too and the extra 4x4 bits probably don't help. It is an incredibly easy car to life with though and would make a superb 'retirement' hatch.

Yes just like an F1 car using KERS which can harvest energy for the alternator to charge the battery the recovery of energy is gained by either pressing the brake pedal or lifting off the brake pedal (coasting in a DSG car in Eco mode) which is why even F1 drivers sometimes coast on the straight to recover electrical energy which results in the red flashing light on the back of the back to warn other drivers they are slowing down but importantly not actually physically pressing the brake pedal. Even an F1 car can save quite a bit of fuel by doing this and not losing much lap time in the process as the recovered energy can be used by the driver by pressing a button on the steering wheel for improved performance exiting slow corners. The 3.0litre V10 engine produced 900bhp, the 2.4litre V8 produced 780bhp and the latest 1.6litre V6 Turbo with KERS produces 950bhp. Lessons learned in F1 have been gradually introduced into road cars.

Hi Matmacka, Not as yet but I guess it is something else to look forward to!!! I really am beginning to regret being taken in by the launch blurb - Innovative connectivity and new assistance systems raise the comfort and safety of the brand's icon to an even higher level. Our previous 2016 model was far better technology wise, so sad as it is a good looking car and does drive well and the Voice Control lady still loves speaking to me without invitation.

The hill decent (activated by 'off road button' on my manual 2015 Scout on 17"s, on a tarmac'd route with an average 14% gradient (maximum 22%) works fine and isnt jerky. The same route with hill decent activated by 'allroad' setting in my Auto A6 on 20"s work fine and isnt jerky either. I used it to maintain speed on a single track route with many switchbacks and numerous steep drops (the sort you'd have time to ring the insurance company before you got to the bottom).

My VRS in quartz grey.

tesla make clear that the cruise and autopilot are only to be used on motorway or dual carriageway so no way it should be in use on the roads Bjorn video shows :-) Mine did it again on the M6 last week, I was driving in lane 2 at 70mph and then bam, I was at 40 mph and a Mercedes Sprinter van had to swerve to avoid me. He was obviously a Tesla fan though as he was waving in a very excited manner as he went past me.

@widdershins Will Skoda have the Software working correctly for every function before the Enyaq gets delivered to customers?

Short story: 235/45R17 fits nicely on my stock suspension Octavia 1.8T. Also looks nice and aggresive on Avus Audi S3 17" rims (wider and more offset than stock 17" spyder rims), my intention of keeping the car as a sleeper just went down the drain. Before/after pics below. Long story: So after running around the whole year incognito mode, steel 15" rims 195/65R15 w/o hubcaps, enjoying myself, and faces of unsuspecting BMW drivers - I've done the famous AUM stage 1 remap to 210 hp after which the tyres can't handle the acceleration in first two gears, and made the car almost impossible to accelerate/drive when raining so I had to do something about the grip. The idea was to get ANY cheapo/trash/dank - undamaged 17" rim to fit the standard 225/45R17, I really wanted some Fe rims (again, incognito-sleeper style), but they don't exist in 57,1 5x100 dimensions (there is a 5x100 17" steel rim, but it's for some huge Renault, and I think it's only for the spare wheel, making the rim witdh in range of lol-J). There is a lot to choose in 16" region, but 205 is just too small for the power the car makes, IMHO. I even looked into 215 combinations in 16" and not only there is no performance tyre in this dimension, it's ridiculously expensive. Mind you, I'm running standard setup on all four corners - Bilstein B4 shocks, Bilstein OEM springs - no lowering, I was a click away to order the heightened springs!! I'm never going to be a style-slave, laughing while just casually cruising over speedbumps whereas dropped GTI's/Type-R's/RS's have to do the diagonal idle+clutch maneuvers I also fancied the idea of fitting larger tyres on it, 235/45R17, my flow of thought was the following, pros/cons: + more grip ofcourse + more offset/scrub radius - more initial turn-in, responsiveness on the steering wheel + more accurate speedo + keeping comfort (decent sidewall) + less wear + overall height of car increased, again more comfort + tyre "attack angle" smaller, making it easier to run over obstacles (eg. curbs, speed-bumps), again, even more comfort (you probably noticed a pattern, I'm anti-style oriented, pro-sleeper/comfort style :)) + visually I always liked seeing fat-meaty tyres in the back + only slightly more expensive than 225/45R17 - very little experience on Octavia mk1 + that tyre combo, some say it fit's others say it doesn't - much heavier - slower acceleration - possible rubbing - worse fuel consumption (it's LPG-ed and it's dirt cheap here in Croatia) Anyway, I managed to snatch a great deal on original 17" Audi S3 "Avus" Alu rims (made by Ronal, Made in Germany), bonus points: they are 6 mm more offset and 0.5J wider than standard rims 17" Spyders, making way for wider tyre! All the calculations point to no rubbing with 235/45R17 ( https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wheel1=195-65-15X6ET38&wheel2=235-45-17X7.5ET32&fcl=50mm&scl=50mm&wcl=30mm&sr=0mm left is my standard setup, right is Avus). But a real life test is needed, I don't want to risk spending €€€'s and putting new summer 235's just to find out they don't fit/rub! So I also managed to snatch winter tyres dirt cheap (almost free), Hankook Winter iCept 235/45R17 DOT2016 halfway worn - perfect for testing out the setup - if it fits, great, if it doesn't I spent a few hours and a few bucks demistifying it. Putting on just the rim on the car was a shock, when lifted, viusally seems like ~2 cm more than outline of car, ouch - on the inside though, quite a lot of space; the guys at the wheel shop rolled they eyes constantly We fitted the tyre rim combo, dropped the car, did a run around the lot full lock..... Purrrrfect, no rubbing, and when car is sitting on it's own it's just right, slightly out of car outline, this will be a slight pain to homologate tho. Inital impressions after a few runs: +/- wheels are a stunner, so much for my incognito/sleeper preferences, honestly, looks much more aggressive than the RS... I guess I'll deal with it. + very soft and controlled wheelhop, car doesn't want to break apart when you loose grip + comfortable + better turn-in, much less wobbly car - awfully heavy, steel rims+tyre 16.6 kg, alu rims+tyre 22.4 kg, ouch, you can see the pictures below, but I'll write up for any google search guys to stumble upon this, I find it invaluable info: - 235/45R17 Hankook Winter iCept 1/2 worn: 10.5 kg - Audi S3 Ronal Alu 17" rims: 11.7 kg - 17" above tyre+rim combo: 22.4 kg - 15" stock steel rim + 195/65R15 Pirelli P7 combo: 16.6 kg - noticeably "slower", feeling is the inital throttle response is much lazier, not so agressive as on 15"; can't really blame it, the car couldn't even accelerate before Didn't try the twisties yet, but the idea is to run around a few weeks and notice how the car behaves and if there will be no rubbing in spring get the Goodyears F1 Assy 5 in 235/45R17. @Madket

It will adapt to your driving style (singular, not plural) over a period of time. It will drive with you in mind in the control logic. Should someone else jump in then it will begin to adapt to how they drive. The topic was in the self study learning documentation for DSG transmissions, it formed part of the master technician training program that I attended some years back and is regularly quoted by the technical team in MK when folk are suffering with driveability issues especially in an instance like I quoted above where two identical vehicles are compared because they appear to drive differently. I drive mine to death, the gears hold in corners and it will rev right up until it changes even in D rather than S. The throttle is also very responsive. I drive my Parents Kodiaq and it will shift up the box as fast as possible, it feels sluggish in comparison. Same engine, same gearbox and both AWD but I drive like a nob and my dad drives like a pensioner. I'm quoting what I've come across over the years and what's been said by those who know more than I do. If it sounds difficult to believe then feel free to ignore it 🤷🏼‍♂️

I've had the car for just over a month now so I suppose an update on progress is due. With it's first track day now just a week away, the key focus has been getting it all together mechanically and making sure everything is safe and working. One of the first missions was to get my set of four point harnesses in which wasn't too hard, I just needed to get a couple of longer eye bolts for the rear as two of the mounting points turned out to be slightly recessed. An unexpected change however was swapping the bucket seats it came with for my Cobra buckets from my old MG. Main reason for the change was the woman prefers the Cobras and if it means she'll have a go at driving it on track, then fine. To be fair, the Cobras are the better seats so she was right. Don't tell her that though. It was a quick job though as the mounting points of the two seats were different and upon closer inspection, I wasn't overly happy with how the existing seats had been mounted so it turned int a full day of re-fabricating and welding good solid mounting points. As it won't just be me driving the car, I needed to keep the seats mounted on sliders so they can still be adjusted. A lot of work but worth it as I'm now happy that the seats are properly mounted and won't cause me any issues. With new cars comes many shopping opportunities so I've been on a bit of a buying spree recently. Lots of service items, and a few upgrades such as Badger 5 oversize TIP, big front mounted intercooler, stainless exhaust system, baffled sump, bits of pipe for a catch can, stage 2 ECU, Haldex service kit and one of those Haldex inserts that Softscoop suggested, phenolic gasket for the inlet manifold, billet injector cups, RamAir induction kit and probably more little bits that I can't remember now. It's been a steady process of most evenings and weekends being spent on working through everything to get it all serviced and get the upgraded parts on. One of the first things I did was bling up the engine up the engine bay a bit by painting my cam cover, inlet manifold and charge pipe. Those who know me on facebook will be aware that I have a habit of painting such items to make a few pennies so it was only right I did a set for myself. Surface prep is key so a go in the dishwasher for a final degreasing is a must. All came out looking pretty nice though as the VHT matt red paint I use is very user friendly. I put the inlet back on along with a phenolic gasket to help reduce the amount of heat transferred from the head and I also fitted a new set of billet injector cups. A crucial job was the cam belt and water pump I've done a cam belt on a 1.8t before so this time didn't take too long. Hardest part is getting the engine mounting bracket out from the space that doesn't really exist It's also had all fluids changed, new oil pick up pipe and I've fitted a baffled sump as I've got experience of taking a 1.8T on track without one and it didn't end well. Forge want £260 for a ready made item, which whilst it is a good quality item, I managed to find just as good an option at a much more reasonable £50. CB Auto do a baffle kit and as my brother works for an engineering company, he was able to tig weld it into a sump pan for me. Well worth the piece of mind that the engine isn't going to be starved of oil during those long sweeping bends on race circuits. The car came with a 3 inch decat downpipe already installed but it still had the standard cat back system which has quite a restrictive looking flattened part where it goes under the rear axle. I kept my eye out for a stainless system at a decent price and luckily found one on Ebay for £100 and as a bonus it was located about 15 minutes from where I was working at the time. Most exhausts available were all centre or back box deletes which didn't really interest me as I didn't want anything loud that would potentially cause me issues with noise tests at circuits. The one I found is ideal as it really isn't a lot louder than standard but is much more free flowing. It was also a direct fit so bolted straight on with no hassle. The front mounted intercooler was also another Ebay find and a really easy fit as, along with the pipework, it's designed specifically for the car so mounted straight on and the bumper fits back over without needing to hack anything off it. With the bumper back on, I figured a little more airflow couldn't hurt so I got the hole saw out and made some holes across the front where the number plate used to live. Next important job, which I didn't get any pictures of, was serviceing the rear Haldex system. A fiddly job as access is tight and the special spanner I purchased to change the filter was an absolute must. The oil is easy enough to change, just a case of suirting it in through the hole and put the plug back in quickly. I fitted the insert I mentioned earlier and now it's in, it's staying in as it's tricky to get to. It's very very small so I really hope it was worth the £76 it cost One of the jobs that needed doing, so that it can get an MOT in a couple of weeks time, was to replace the front cv boots as they were both split. What should have been an easy job, I've done plenty in the past on various vehicle, ultimately turned into a massive pain in the winkle as the cv joints just would not come off for love nor money. Had to resort to the angle grinder. It didn't really help though as the new cv joints I had then wouldn't fit the shafts. Upon closer inspection, the shafts were infact some non genuine replacements. Disappointing but easily resolved by sourcing a pair of genuine, good condition used shafts. Getting close to being ready to use now so today I just did a quick little task of relocating the front number plate. Obviously I can't use a normal one now as it'll block off the holes I made for the intercooler, so I've gone for a square plate tucked off to the left hand side. I don't want any issues with the law so I've had one made with the legal font and size. Tomorrow's job is fit my uprated fuel pump and I've got a boost gauge to mount somewhere aswell. Then, it'll be a case of put it on the trailer next weekend and hope it all holds together when I drive it for the first time at Donnington Park. As long as it doesn't blow up, I can then get it MOT'd whilst I have a week off work and then maybe start looking at tidying up the cosmetic issues.