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Race blue vrs hatch, dsg.

Mine in Moon White 🤤 coated with Ceramics before leaving dealer.

@dijit I really think you should do things a bit differently. Your Warranty Started with the car being First Registered. You had best get things sorted out by the supplying dealership. They could have paid for an Approved Repairer so a Skoda Dealership to have things correct and you having a proper Full Service History for the future.

As above, I can confirm that the Sportline is indeed the choice of the discerning buyer.......

Normal skoda pads are ATE Skoda ECO are made by Mando

Yep they are definitely quick cars even in standard form. I’ve logged my 280 at 5.2 secs 0-60 with a gps dongle plugged in via my phone, maybe not as accurate as proper timing gear but a couple of runs it was consistently there. it really is brutal acceleration and very easy to find yourself going a lot faster than you should be if you let it. god knows what these stage 1 and 2 people are getting to experience! Hopefully one day I’ll go stage 1 on mine but it’s certainly no slouch at the moment.

A Terraclean would be the very last thing to be having done on engines that might need 'actions' by the manufacturer even after the Manufacturers Warranty has expired because the future is not known on engines that some have had issues from their launch. You only know what 4 or 5 year old engines are going to be like for longevity 4 or 5 years after they have been on the road. Especially with VW who never admit issues even at 1,2 or 3 years old.

I'm still on the lookout for an ex police MK1 vrs in white, to restore back to police spec. If anyone had one for sale please get in touch. Any condition, complete or not considered.

It's my understanding that it all depends on which infotainment is installed in your vehicle. If it's an Amundsen unit then it's essential that an official Skoda sd card is used and furthermore, the navigation map is continously read from the card so it won't work if the card is removed i.e. the card must be left in the unit continously. On the other hand, if it's a Colombus unit ( which it sounds as if yours is ) you can update the unit using any generic sd card and since the map is uploaded and saved on the actual unit itself it will then work without the sd card in place so you can therefore remove it. Hope this helps.

The law is the Consumer Rights Act 2015. Any used car is covered for 6 months despite what any garage says or warranty. I had all my glow plugs changed after 5 months of ownership under that act. The garages know it very well but hope the customer doesn't to avoid repairing the car. Also had a heated windscreen go faulty within the 6 months on another car and had that changed under the CRA 2015. A car must be fit for purpose for 6 months from the date of purchase. If the garage faila to repair the car you can take then to court over it. It is a very simple process. I also work in the legal world so know it very well. Says more here and saves my fingers typing https://www.theaa.com/car-buying/legal-rights

Sorry i do mean ign off and key out ive tried locking it and it still stays on. Ill check to see if there is a setting thank you. Its a 2005 aswell

I don't think you need to have functioning windows for MOT? For number 6 try cleaning the connections (careful with the main positive one, disconnect battery negative first). Can't explain it, but not long into ownership of our Fabia the starter motor was screeching after it did its work. Went to change it but was thwarted by a socket set lacking an 18mm. Cleaned up the connections, tried it again and everything was working right. Still have the unused spare starter somewhere that hasn't been needed since. 6 or 7 years ago at least now.

Hi Rob Yeah the most of your issues are well covered on the forum I have #5 and #7 and still putting it off ! #3 is the only issue that will give you hassle at MOT time ! Get her rested then tip away at the other issues yourself ! Good clean and fix the leaks will make a big difference - nice to see another survivor getting a second chance !

ii4c on my old mk1 octy if there wasnt a "clink" pulling out the key so that the keyhole cover clicked shut the radio would occasionally stay on. as if the car thinks the key is still in until that covers drops. a shot of contact cleaner and jiggle solved the sticky cover and solved the radio. it may be the same?

Probably with the Ctek negative lead connected to the engine earth as per the handbook advice for jump leads?

Make sure you open the ZIP file and move the 2 folders and 1 file to the SD card. Dont put the whole ZIP file on the SD card. SD card should look similar to this: (the md5 hash file has no value for the upgrade and doesnt need to be on there) There should be 2 folders starting with MIB2..... and a file. Also there are known issues with doing on a Mac and some odd hidden files staying behind. Although the progress may not be properly visible. You should at least see there is an update on the SD card. (What the system doesnt do is check whether the update on the SD card is newer than whats installed. Even after completing the update, it still tells me there is an update on SD card. Taking the SD card out resolves that problem.)

Same here, no idea when 4x4 side of things is kicking in, never had any issues on the sheet ice on the drive or snow and ice locally. In places it’s too slick to walk on but our cars drive over it as if it was normal gravel. I suspect the full winter tyres are providing enough grip that the haldex hasn’t felt the need yet.

Ken, re the change from 19" to 16" wheels for winter, you presumably are only using the 16" wheels in winter, when as discussed in earler thread & illustrated with charts, cars are thirstier due to lower air temperatures. Although you say there's no improvement in economy, is the economy signifantly worse? If not, that reduction ion wheel size would still indicate significant theoretical improvement. This is all complicated by the fact, as reported here elsewhere, that summer tyres are generally of stiffer ECO construction these days, whereas AW & winter tyres have to use softer compounds & so I would have thought, be a bit less ECO. Shy's observation & experience about wheel size and thus higher profile tyres, did surprise me, though. I would have thought the extra flexibility in higher profile tyres equals more resistance to movement & so worse economy. Maybe the tyre width as opposed to profile is the significant factor.

Sounds like a bargain if you want to drive up to your wind turbines and look at them in your £80,000 landy & think about the £250,000 each is of the windmills earn you a year.

Stage 1 here. I have to say a stage 1 re-map on a 280 /272 is pretty awesome. A lot of extra "bang for your buck" for an extra +80bhp (now 360) & +40nm torque (now 488nm) & some other stg 1 re-maps can get more than this! All with stock exhaust & other plumbing. I had mine done middle of last year (Revo). I'm not sure what the stats are now but it's easily sub 5s 0-60 I'd say. Better than that though is the in-gear 30-50/60/70mph acceleration for more useable everyday use. Runs on 99RON fuel to get the best out of it. Acceleration in sport mode is fairly savage so I'm trying to stay in D or manual shift to use the extra torque in higher gears. The only downside currently is the fuel consumption. Ordinarily there world be no change stock vs stg 1 but with all the short local journeys during lockdowns 22-24mpg is as good as it gets for now. I did get 36mpg on a run once last rear though. The trouble is, once you get on the modification "hamster wheel" it's not easy to get off. I'm now looking at a rear sway bar upgrade & perhaps some induction mods. I want to keep the car looking as stock as possible to preserve it's sleeper identity so no lowered springs or body kits - famous last words! My 280 is going to be a keeper. At least that's what I told myself until I saw that new Cupra Formentor which can have the same / similar EA888 engine & 4x4 system - definitely not a sleeper looking vehicle though. It's a good looking car but quite expensive so I'll have to wait & see what the used prices are like in a year or so.

Had to google what that was. I bet your 10yo loves that! Digital whoopy cushion, now that has to be a good use of technology!

That looks fantastic. Great colour choice and spec.

Don’t think that’s an elegance, no xenons, heated seats etc. Also it looks like a city model and not an outdoor.

Door Speakers. Started with the rears, and followed pretty much the same procedure that is well documented on youtube and elsewhere. Use trim panel tools to get the door off, use forked tool to really get in behind each clip. As this car is less than a year old they were really really stiff but the tool did work, you do need to use force, but in a measured capacity, for instance don't go yanking anything but do get the tool in the right position and give it a good measured pull. Drill out the rivets for the stock speakers. Use a riv nut tool to put in M4 rivet nuts. Sound deadening added to flat panels of the door. I didn't want to go overkill with this stuff. So added it to the large flat surface around the speaker housing, on the flat panel inside the hole on the exterior of the door below the actuator, then did the knock test on other areas. Just use a knuckle to gently knock the panel, you can tell by the sound if it needs deadening or not. A good rule of thumb is flat areas are more likely to vibrate, bent mental as largely quite stiff and solid. The difference in the sound of the door closing with even just this little amount of deadening is incredible. Next on was the connects2 6.5 speaker adapter. Then I got some of those fast rings that @JohnnyType2 used. They are awesome! A solid disc gets stuck to exterior panel, 1 ring gets cut and stuck to the back of the speaker so as you mount it to the adapter there is a layer of foam between the plastic and the speaker, and the magnet nicely rests in to the foam disc. Then the largest ring goes around the speaker so that when the trim panel goes back it presses up against the plastic, fully directing the sound out the through the grille. Lovely, must buy product!

I don't think that's an elegance as it's clearly missing bi-xenon headlights too. It won't have a USB port with that style of Bolero either - odd as I'd expect a FL Yeti to get the MIB style Bolero...

Thanks for all the advice, I think ill keep the car for the time being, Makes sense what you have been saying. It's still returning pretty good MPG, Better than any petrol car I've owned. Thanks again......Graeme.

https://seat-skoda.caffynsparts.co.uk/parts/skoda-parts/skoda-spare-wheel-kits/skoda-kodiaq-spare-wheel-kit/ https://seat-skoda.caffynsparts.co.uk/parts/skoda-parts/skoda-spare-wheel-kits/skoda-kodiaq-7-seat-model-spare-wheel-kit/ The 5 seater kit comes with the appropriate carpet cover, the 7 seat the wheel fits under the 3rd row seat and false floor and doesn’t need new carpet.

If I remember correctly, there are some changes on the MK4 Octavia VC's, namely the no longer have MOST (fibre optic) for the maps display so I doubt they will ever big a good choice for a MK3. At the very least, you'd probably need a MIB3 headunit to get things working properly. What headunit have you got and which software do you have? Can you add an autoscan and adaption map of 5F? Much like Krosta, adding the VC and getting the maps etc working was all pretty simple. After adding the fibre optic cable, a few tweaks on 5F and everything was working

Will keep a look out for you.

Nice one! Congratulations!

Well if you complain that the seat heater has stopped working then the fault cannot be presumed to have existed when you first bought the car, heating elements will in many cases eventually fail just like a light bulb, the constant flexing will fatigue the element where it passes from one cushion to another, I cannot see anyone upholding a case that a used car dealer should be liable for a headlamb bumb failing after 2 months yet that is critical to the cars safe functioning, a heated seat isn't ts a nice to have extra. But then we live in a world where a new car is rejected because someone cannot lock and unlock the doors and do whatever else it is they want to do from their mobile phone.

I bought these after quite a bit of research. 10/10.

I would keep the car you have, turbos can be noisy for years and not fail. With the cambelt just run the risk of not getting done plenty of cars dont have them changed on time.

Mine is Fuse27. Take out the glovebox. You will find it in there. Check your manual because the fuse number could be different.

Nice! This is the car I imagine Darth Vader would drive.

About the steering wheel: I have virtual cockpit from Octavia III FL and the buttons on the steering wheel are working (except for the button for travel assist (right top corner button) and I can't change VIEW, everything else is working, the button for heated steering wheel too. Regarding to coding, I need only to enable the option, that I have the button on steering wheel. About the settings on your Columbus regarding VC, you need to have Gateway 3Q0 and it should be working with correct coding (the settings in infotainment) I don't know about any other workaround. Right know with my friend, we would like to try to create a "translation" unit for LIN communication - example: If you press right left button, it will send to car "VIEW" button click, so far it looks like not possible option, but we will try Heated rear seats - just wirings and add heating pads Additional independent heating - I mean auxiliary heating and about tri-zone climatronic, I am not sure, what is needed to be change :/ rSAP retrofit is consist of two LTE antenas under the rear bumber and coaxial cables to infotainment unit, nothing else Media Command is SWaP code, but it is not so useful I have used it once, I think. And I think, that it is available for MIB2.5

For a first post I don't think a lot of it and you are the first I have used the ignore user button on. The spec of the cars you have in your profile and yet need to ask about speakers!

For example, here is the list of my retroffits (Also did something else, but this is the part of "additional equipment". I also did some changes, which are not mentioned here) It is only google translated from czech If you want something from this to do on your car, just wrote it and I can tell you, what I needed to do for it. · Highline parking camera with Trailer Assist support · Heated steering wheel with touch sensor and paddles under the steering wheel (from Octavia IV) · Wireless charger · Heated rear seats · Columbus 9.2 ‘‘ from FL Octavia (large glass display) · Electric fifth door · Virtual pedal · Additional independent heating · Heated windscreen · Added dividing net with mounting on the ceiling · Original towing equipment · Blind spot and parking assistant · Front Assist, including monitoring of the car's surroundings while driving · Adaptive cruise control and speed limiter · Trailer maneuvering assistant · Automatic high beam switch · Traffic Sign Recognition · Generating engine noise - not working with the engine unit · Lane Assist, Adaptive Lane Assist, model 2020 · Driving profile mode - ECO, COMFORT, NORMAL, SPORT, INDIVIDUAL · Black package (mirror caps black, around the front bumper mask behind the black) · Digital instrument panel with RS mode option · Radio with DAB + digital signal reception, including traffic information reception · Media Command and SportHMI functions in infotainment · 230 V socket including two USB backs · rSAP function for LTE signal reception, including the possibility of inserting a SIM card · SIMPLE CLEVER elements - bottle opening with one hand, multimedia holder in the center console, umbrella holder under the driver's and front passenger's seats · Maneuvering brake · Double / raised floor in the trunk · Original crossmembers that can be inserted into the raised floor in the trunk · Plastics for the chassis to protect the front and rear axles and also to improve aerodynamics · Ambient lighting in all doors with interconnection of the driving profile mode · Personalization of keys · Storage compartment for umbrellas in the trunk Removable lamp in the case (from Superba FL, lights pure white)

Quattro and cat butt.

I have a BlueSkySea B1W hardwired in my Octavia. Absolutely no problem with DAB. I used a Nextbase hardwire kit (carried over from my old car) as I found cheap ones caused issues and simply failed to work when it was really cold out.

Well, good news, Skoda has covered the whole turbo and actuator unit and this has now been replaced, the extended warranty has certainly saved me a fortune. I asked my dealer how much would it have cost if I just walked in and had it all replaced, he reckoned about £2300. Okay, probably a lot more than an independent or a repair/exchange unit but that would be expected, main dealers are normally the most expensive. This is one job I did not have to get price matched either. The pedal box did not make any difference I am of course very pleased to say! I emailed Skoda Customer Services last week about this, not heard anything yet.

Got the spacers fitted last week - H&R hubcentric, 15mm on the front and 20mm on the rear. Wheels filling the arches nicely now 😎

Check the rear tyres for stepping on the edges, that can cause unusual noises from the rear. In the past I've come across centre prop bearing being noisy but that constant and increases with speed. Of late I replaced the haldex unit on my own car which had a similar noise, I disregarded it until the unit failed completely. That had been serviced, it was just bad luck on my part. You'll probably have a 5th generation unit. The differential and haldex use different oils. Haldex oil in the coupling unit and 75w90s in the diff. The haldex takes about 850ml and the differential about 1.5 litres. You drain them then refil until it spills out of the fill hole.

And here is mine. Finally. With the aftermarket winter wheels. Not the best weather to pick up the new car.

All mine! Still at the dealer! I hope I'll pick it up this week.

My VRS in quartz grey.

We will see what the Grenadier costs. Plenty people will pay whatever they feel they want to. Maybe NGO,s or charities needing capable vehicles.