Leaderboard

Haha I have write here a years ago for this problem:) Nobody has this sound on yours car. But i told that this problem is on all cars 2013-2017. Its the vacum pump! Vhen you hear this ratling push quickley brake pedal and the sound wil change. Skoda delalers dont care about this! Search for my thema octavia 3 rattling.

In the end, even caliper off not enough space to drill out. A decent set of lock pliers did the trick.

One from a walk down a cold canal

Enthusiastic approach to speed bumps? A neighbour of mine's wife & 2 x daughters each broke front springs on three separate cars over a period of 18 months (all different make / models of car). After the 3rd one broke he started asking questions. Seems they were hitting the local speed bumps (4 in our road) at excessive speed! Probably 35mph. So much so that on two cars the front bumper valance was also scuffed as the front end bottomed out on the road. Coincidently for the first time in a while I was driven by my wife in her car the other week & guess what, yep, she did the same thing. I actually hit my head on the roof of her car. A heated "domestic" then ensued as I tried to explain that hitting speed bumps at 35mph+ was not what they are in the road for

Having the softest of the three different rear springs makes the problem very easy to solve. You may find that just fitting a new 5Q0511115AL would improve things if the original spring has started to sag, so maybe consider the middle 5Q0511115AM spring, but if you feel that you need more than a small increase in stiffness then the hardest spring would be the one to go for. I've looked at the actual photos of all three springs on the gknautomotive website, and they all have about 8.5 coil turns and about the same uncompressed length. This makes it easy to do some maths to get a good idea of how much stiffer the medium and hard spring is compared to the softest spring. The medium spring is about 4% stiffer than the softest spring, and the hardest spring is about 8% stiffer than the softest spring. So maybe your choice of the hardest rear spring would suit you best. 5Q0511115AL https://web.tecalliance.net/gkn/en/parts/1/87730/detail?query=5Q0511115AL&numberType=1&oe=5Q0511115AL&groups=188#@brc/search:Search%20by%20any%20number%205Q0511115AL;mandator:gkn;query:5Q0511115AL;groups:188;brands:1;pf:2;page:0/detail:87730;brandId:1;articleNo:87730;mandator:gkn;query:5Q0511115AL;numberType:1;oe:5Q0511115AL;groups:188 5Q0511115AM https://web.tecalliance.net/gkn/en/parts/1/87970/detail?query=5Q0511115AM&numberType=1&oe=5Q0511115AM&groups=188#@brc/search:Search%20by%20any%20number%205Q0511115AM;mandator:gkn;query:5Q0511115AM;groups:188;brands:1;pf:2;page:0/detail:87970;brandId:1;articleNo:87970;mandator:gkn;query:5Q0511115AM;numberType:1;oe:5Q0511115AM;groups:188 5Q0511115AN https://web.tecalliance.net/gkn/en/parts/1/87971/detail?query=5Q0511115AN&numberType=1&oe=5Q0511115AN&groups=188#@brc/search:Search%20by%20any%20number%205Q0511115AN;mandator:gkn;query:5Q0511115AN;groups:188;brands:1;pf:2;page:0/detail:87971;brandId:1;articleNo:87971;mandator:gkn;query:5Q0511115AN;numberType:1;oe:5Q0511115AN;groups:188 Sachs 992103 matches OEM part number 5Q0511115AN https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/5q0511115an?search=OEN+5Q0511115AN&supplier[0]=32 superbcarparts on ebay quoted me £100 for two Sachs 992102 rear springs that match OEM part number 5Q0511115AM so I expect they would also do the Sachs 992103 for a similar/same price.

Just to be clear, you still have to activate "Update from USB" in navigation menu, although there will be no update notification or anything else on the screen (from the original post): https://www.drive2.com/l/568779015389709159/

Yup, oil should be 90'C plus really. Just to point out, the coolant gauge lies. It'll show bang on 90'C for a wide range of temperatures, from 75'C to 105'C (or something similar) if I remember correctly. Apparently modern drivers expect the gauge to stay still rather than move with engine load.... Anyway, I had similar issues with my CR140 and a new thermostat fixed it. I logged the temperature before and after to check which I posted here: If you have a DSG, there is a separate thermostat for the DSG that's worth replacing first as it's much cheaper and easier to access

Given both sensors are reading low, it's more likely to be a thermostat.

Dropped the car off yesterday. They said they'd pull the bottom of the engine off and see what's going on. They've said something along the lines of hopefully it's only a bearing shell and they can replace it. If there's damage to the crank then it's gearbox out, crank out, new crank and shells as they don't believe in re-grinding. I'm waiting to see how much it's all going to cost and then I'll make a decision whether to get the car fixed, sell it and move on. If they replace a worn bearing, then I'll always be worried if one of the others are going to start to show signs of wear at a later date. The problem is, I like the car, and if I sell it, I'm struggling to think of anything as good for the same price. The closest I can come up with a Volvo V60 T5. I could buy another Superb, but I don't really like to buy the same thing twice. I'm keeping my eyes open for quick estate cars that are not too far off £20k just incase. Either way, I've been banned from modifying any more cars.

when mine was brand spanking, I had a look at a tracker. However the cost for a 'decent' one vs the insurance cost, meant I'd be paying over the odds. Out of interest I did it on a Golf GTD i pinched a reg off from Autotrader and that dropped the premium by about £20 as well. Don't think our cars are on the wanted list If the alarm system has a thatcham 1 certificate, it's a bit excessive to start putting another system in conjunction or on top of.

I completely agree, though I would argue that driving to conditions and proper use of engine braking greatly reduces the need to apply the brakes in the first place, as said before I had zero issues when stopping for junctions or hazards with my PS4S. What I was getting at was that I wouldn’t rush out to replace my current tyres now but when the time comes I’ll seriously consider all seasons.

@Brucemagoose511Sorry to burst your bubble seeing as your Mk2 Fabia vRS has expired but there are not the issues that required a world wide recall on the DQ200's from 2009-2012 and for Europe the Service Campaign, then the next service campaign from 2013-2015 for some. There are issues for some from 2014-now. So time will tell if all DQ200's are issue free now when they get to 5 years old or so. If buying new and keeping the car then maybe get the extended warranty before the car is first registered. If buying used get a good length of a road test and check the Service & Warranty History. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/439395-the-story-of-the-famous-dq200-clutch-slip/page-14

You're wrong there, battery Ah is one of the parameters that can be set/changed in the BMS.

Update..... My local mechanic did the work for me, the slave was weeping and there was fluid in the bellhousing, everything was working absolutely fine until the guy MOT'ing it found the clutch pedal was clunking again so it looks like the Slave & Master cylinders were screwed! Just waiting on a price to get the master replaced. The pedal does still work OK but the hesitancy when coming off the clutch when accelerating must have been the master cylinder all along. Drives lovely now and the much lower biting point nearly caught me out every time I pulled away driving home from the garage lol

Thanks for all the info guys, especially in the links provided. I'd hadn't considered looking past the Skoda warranty at other warranties available, mainly because I'd never heard anything good about them. I read a comment by Honest John several years ago, where he opined that modern cars are built with an average 7 year life in mind. I tend to believe that because car companies need to keep churning out cars. Having said that, my wife has an 11 year old Suzuki Swift ( which admittedly has had an easy life and is low mileage due to her early retirement) which is still going strong (kiss of death !!) and has never needed anything other than servicing and a new battery just last year. The advice given about not taking out a warranty and saving the premiums was something we did last year with our dog insurance. Because he's knocking on now, the premiums were ridiculous and in the 11 years we'd insured him, any expenditure for his health was always below the excess payment. We wish now we'd never insured him, but that's easy to say in hindsight.

I doubt they even did a compression check as you don’t get a low compression error in Vcds you get a misfire fault code , did they check the coil packs ?

Heated seats are great, one of the few options that I added to my car! Skoda do seem to change their model specs suddenly from country to country. Before buying my first Octavia 3 Elegance model the UK website showed a lefthand drive car in Elegance spec with a passenger seat which completely folded, which I thought was a handy feature. Of course my car when it arrived didn't have this on it, Skoda said that the seats on that model couldn't fold, only the SE model although the seats seem much the same other than the fabric on them. They did give me some money back for it though and the website images were changed soon afterwards!

Agreed. Stick the premium in a savings account and self insure. Enjoy the massive 0.5% interest Well said ! So not really worth the paper it's printed on !!

Here is the screenshot.

Those are not MIB1 Amundsen maps. MIB1 Amundsen maps have one file (DBinfo.txt) and one folder (markets). Visit the VW map update site here select Golf until 2015 and Discover Media to get to a link to the correct maps for a MIB1 Amundsen.

Rather than raising the springs, I expect the new Koni active dampers prioide a more controlled ride over poor surfaces and speed bumps.

Here.

I’m biased, but the SEL is the pick of the bunch. It has a lot of gear as standard. Extras are whatever turn you on. We’re all different. Sunroof or Suspension??? The Sportline is all Fur Coat and No Knickers. Form over Function all the way. And who needs an Off-road Kit in 2021? You ain’t gonna go any faster or look more attractive.

Yep Sportline is the way to go

im some dope... i posted this topic the day after my 9yr anniversary of Brisky membership!

Since 2011, the Audi A6 has used 5/112 66.5 rims. The Yeti uses a 57.1mm centre bore with it's 5/112, so 5/112 66.5 wouldn't fit as the rim wouldn't be centred on the hub. There are probably other examples, so always check that the rims are 5/112 57.1 not just 5/112.

Bosch/Lucas/TRW appear to be the same. Continental/Conti/TEVES/ATE appear to be the same. The 2011-2016 Audi A1 appears to use ATE 256mm/288mm/310mm (not 312mm) front brakes, and TRW 230/272 rear brakes. http://www.oemepc.com/audi/parts_lst/markt/RDW/modell/A1/year/2011/hg/6/catalog/au/drive_standart/708/lang/e The Fabia 256mm front brakes are either ATE or TRW. ATE have been available for all years, whereas TRW were available from 2009-2015 alongside the ATE 256mm front brakes. You can see the models and years of cars for various markets that were available with the TRW 256mm front brakes here: http://www.oemepc.com/tvn_result/search/tvn/6RF615123

When I bought mine the SEL was the pick of the bunch with the best spec for price. Been looking lately and the Sportline seems the sweet spot at the moment, for not much more than a SEL you get Columbus instead of Amundsen, no extra costs for metallic paint, electric drivers seat, led interior light pack, and alloy pedals.

Assuming you did need coding, there are plenty of member with VCDS that are happy to do coding if required, it'll just depend where in England you are to who is local Anyway, I assume you're still trying to use the TEB7AS mentioned in your other thread? Not sure what the other module you've tried is? In which case, it seems others have had it working on a MK2 Octavia: - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/209000-tow-bar-bypass-relay-wiring/?do=findComment&comment=2470657 - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/179204-mkii-fog-light/?do=findComment&comment=2155362 I'd wire it up as: - Yellow, left indicator - Green, right indicator - Red, brake light (either side) - Blue, fog light (drivers side as stock cars only have one side enabled) - Grey, reverse light (either side) - Black, securely taped up - Brown, securely taped up - White, a good clean earth point! You've not mentioned if you're using a single 7 pin (12N), dual 7 pin (12N+12S) or a 13 pin socket. Therefore, I'd suggest you use the screw terminals on the TEB7AS to check which are getting power. Colours based from this PDF: http://www.towbarsdirect.co.uk/images/M7-WK7.pdf

096AGM is a perfect replacement, likely an upgrade if anything as most seem to have an EFB from factory. That Halfords is allegedly a rebranded Yuasa which is a great battery brand. I would always advocate coding as that is what "should" be done. Halfords may be able to code, I know AA were able to when they came out to me and replaced mine.

If you go to an independent specialist with a borescope they can take look inside cylinder 3 for you, they can also do a leakdown test to tell you if it's the valves or the rings. I daresay the dealer just did a basic compression test then wrote the engine off.

Turn the car in and take another one. They fall apart as soon as the warranty expires. On the MOT issue, I got my wife's previous Octavia MOTd at a garage a few hundred yards from home just before its 3rd birthday and end of contract. And - it failed on a leaking front shock. I obviously was not expecting any problems at all on a mint low miles car. If I'd taken it to the dealer further away then I could have argued the cost of new front shocks. As it was, I was over a barrel and it cost a bucket for instant new shocks. And the dealer naturally blew me away when I mentioned my disappointment. Bastid. ps - I've never had Extended Warranty, so can't comment. A previous Superb ran OK for 6+ years without problem - routine maintenance. After that I've been "renting" cars for 3 years at a time. The world around us is changing and no one will buy expensive cars privately any more. Its all PCP, PCP. And I'm running a bike into it's 6th year and it hasn't disintegrated and many bike riders ask all the same questions around Extended Warranties. Often the advice for a long term owner is "put the insurance premium in the bank and fix any repairs as they may arise". But - I honestly believe that modern cars are NOT built to last, no matter the badge.

The Important clause is about known faults. That is in the T&C's. They will sell you the Warranty then blow you off saying there were known faults. It was Skoda / VW / Audi / SEAT that knew of the faults and sell the cars and sell the extended warranty funnily. I can find many members that had the issues with a Skoda Approved Used Warranty as was with Car Care Ltd or with the latest version. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/481621-extended-warranty http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/440772-nightmare-fabia-vrs-engine-replacement-needed http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/446957-extended-warranty-worth-it

This will work as long as the 3 files mentioned above are at the root (top) of the SD card/USB drive and not inside a folder on the SD card/USB, otherwise the Satnav won't find the files. When you "unzip" a zip file it will put the files inside a folder by default, although you can easily override this.

Turns out it was the temp sensor being loose, once tightened up regen started and egr working as it should

The issue with automatic dipping is a person dips when they see the light from the other car. The car dips when it sees the other car. A good couple of seconds longer in some cases.

Haven't heard of any mk7 Golf R/GTI, Leon Cupra to suffer from this tbh so it surprised me to see it on a 280 isn't it? We know the 280 runs on softer springs but this is unacceptable imo. No idea about the regular Golfs and Leons though that you mention.

How on earth does a spring snap like that on a 2yr old car... Are the roads near you that bad? No other damage to the suspension or chassis hopefully? Makes me feel a bit better for all the trouble installing Eibachs even though preventing this was not my main drive...

A few from this morning's (local) exercise. The moon was especially large (and ?full).

Try this Osram website. You need to enter a European car, so you should be ok with the Skoda Superb MK1. However, the Superb 2.5TDi V6 finished production in 2008. https://www.osram.de/apps/gvlrg/en_COM Stop Lamp Product line ORIGINAL P21W Order number 7506 ECE Category P21W Technical data 12.0 V 21.00 W BA15s Tail Light Product line ORIGINAL P21/4W Order number 7225 ECE Category P21/4W Technical data 12.0 V 21/4 W BAZ15d

If you have 5.8" screen and map data are stored at SD card, then yes.

I think you'd have gained the same swapping the dirty paper element for a clean standard item. Please bear in mind that on a turbodiesel you have to add fuel to make more power, not air because the amount of air is fixed by the ECU using the boost control solenoid in conjunction with the MAP sensor. Induction kits are for petrol engines.

Blacked out all the badges and emblems today.

They wouldn't write nonsense like this if they really knew their stuff: "If the EGR is not working effectively or blocked the amount of exhaust gases passing through the DPF will be increased potentially speeding up the DPF blocking." The fact is that EGR is not for recombusting anything, nor cleaning up exhaust gases. It's a way of introducing incombustible gases into the cylinders to reduce excess oxygen and reduce peak temperatures. This in turn reduces the amount of nitrogen oxides formed in the combustion chambers, which is the whole point. Unfortunately, this also reduces combustion efficiency and increases soot production. Check with google if you don't believe me.

Seen on a french Skoda forum. Not mine :

Thank you @stratosg for the guidance. Spacers is a solution but I don't know if it is the correct one for safety. I have searched a lot but I have not managed to find a entirely lift kit of suspension builted for our car. For a beginning I will try the spacer and I will see the results. Thank you again

It’s a nice ass alright

Gizmo did a fantastic job of sorting the VCDS programming and even managed to get it to do some extra tricks! I guess that is what happens if you get someone who knows what the systems can do and is able to tweak things so they work! Very pleased and I do appreaciate the effort. Enjoy the beer and nice to chat about the cars of the future!