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Thats more than likely the issue then, there are many reports of the one click option changing additional coding that doesn’t need changing.... and not un coding it all again if you revert back to standard. This is the reason why ALL coding should be physically changed by 'long coding’ or ‘adaptations’ and not the one click method.

top picture is new, left, lower picture is old left. top picture is new right, lower picture is old right. Notice the longer "Tang" On the older version. They snap. The later version has shorter "Tang", which fits more snugly, with a "Click", on to the pins/lugs of the boot lining. The part supposedly fits the estate version, too but I cannot quantify that. They definitely fit my hatchback. You might also notice I snapped a small pin on both the old ones as I removed them.

The DSG has a manual mode, as described in the User Manual. Just select D as normal, push the selector to the LEFT and it is now in manual mode. Push the selector Forward or Back to select higher or lower gear. So you can pull away in second gear. The top of the centre display will show which gear is selected.

I thought this was topical, given the weather... Mk1 Fabia uses a circuitboard mounted relay to drive the wipers, which is great when it is working, but a little unfortunate when it wears out. The circuit board in question is in the Onboard Supply Control Unit, physically located above the accelerator pedal in RHD cars, clutch pedal in LHD (I guess). It tends to be known as the BCM (Body Control Module) in later cars, and is not the same as the Central Convenience Module (which does locks and stuff). The relay can be replaced, but must be unsoldered from the circuit board without damaging anything. I used hot air to do so, at work on my first try with a small, very expensive hot air gun. Later, at home on another, with a much cheaper more domestic hot air gun like you'd get from B&Q for paintstripping etc. Obviously, you need to get the local area of the board hot enough to melt the 10 solder joints, but not so hot as to catch fire or melt anything else too much. Not trivial, but not too hard. Here are pics of the location of the relay and one of it removed, the ten pin holes cleared out with a 'solder sucker' and/or 'solder wick', and the extracted relay to show part number etc. I found these available on ebay from Poland I think, not too much <£5 each. You're going to want to rule out all other possibilities first, like fuses, linkage issues, wiper motor etc. By the way, if you use the intermittent wiper setting, it wears this relay hugely faster than when on the constant setting. Every time the wiper starts a back and forth sweep, and finishes it, this relay has to switch on and off. When on continuous mode, it just operates when you first switch on, and when you finally switch off. Relays mainly wear out by the contacts getting pitted during opening/closing operations, rather than by hours spent in the energised state. -do=add#.url -do=add#.url I need to credit Briskoda member @anewman for supplying me with a known bad unit, in order to test my idea that relay replacement would fix it. He now has it back and may have it available for sale if anyone needs one...

If you have particularly badly lipped disks and meaty pads they could be sticking badly on the disk lip. I had an issue with mine, once disks and pads changed issue went away. I never had vibration, just a smokey front wheel it stuck on quite bad even after a clean and grease.

Have ordered one of these kits... https://kjetkillers.pl/en_US/c/audi-5cyl/45 In other news Rusty is at Wellington European. Diagnosis so far - the brake high pressure line is leaking slightly, will be replaced, and the wastegate doesn't seem to be working correctly. And front subframe bolts had started to loosen - the polybush metal inserts were slightly long meaning when I tightened the bolts they weren't sitting properly.

AppConnect cannot be unlcoked with SW upgrade - either contact your VW dealer or the unit must be hacked.

It may well be down to whichever ISP you've chosen but I'd certainly give it a go. If passwords etc are required then they'll be able to tell you what goes where.

This is where I am in the thought process. In a couple of years I’ll be looking at little cars, designed properly from the ground up. I can see from my records that car No.2 lives a short journey life, except when I consciously choose to enjoy it on a long trip. So I can see a future where it would stick to short hops only. But they’re soooo expensive. I recently played on the VW page and their own analyser tool compared an ID3 with a Golf and decided “the Golf will be much cheaper for you over 3 years”. No surprise there.

It was only last year I got rid of my Alpine headunit with flipout screen, 12 disc changer and DVD/Nav changer - I brought the HU and CD changer in 2002 and the Nav in 2006. I hadnt used it any of it since 2011. The remote was almost the size of a small phone I know what you mean about nostalgia .... very nearly kept it!

Fantastic work! Did the cables for the B6 seats also fit? I know of a scrapped octavia that i now want to see if i can use the front seats from, just as you used the passat seats in yours=)

Tends to be fine when cold but gets worse after a drive when all the brake bits get warm / hot and expand. It might not be the calpier. I would check the brakes first including that the pads move freely in the carrier first. Thanks, AG Falco

Well mine has just updated. Following the advice from @batalabove (thanks!), I did a hard reset on my Columbus by holding down the power button and when it restarted the navigation version had gone from 19 11 to 20 10. The update files had been sitting on an NTFS formatted flash drive, plugged into the car, since last year but it's only now after the reboot that they appear to have been recognised.

Sounds like a seized brake caliper which can induce a brake pulsing when hot. This is where the brake is seized on tighter at some point every revolution. This can create a wobble where the suspension is pulled down further at the tight point. This might not be due to any pothole impacts. Thanks, AG Falco

Yeah the car was starting then I changed the pump snd plugs then it started straight after changing them

The car was running and starting good last week let it warm up and then the next day I come to the car and give it a service as I knew it would have needed it and a new fuel pump the car had very little fuel when I left the car but before the service I filled it up with shell v power the jump leads I use are the old heavy duty ones for cars lorries and busses never ever let me down even tried a new battery still no different the car when going to it after a day the first turn it’s like it goes to fire up then after the first turn there is nothing it just turns over

Yes, whilst they are better they are nowhere near as bright as the superskoda ones (which I now have)

Hi, I have sen on occasions, people mention they have snapped their clips that hold the rear parcel shelves on, on their Fabias, so wanted to impart a little help. I am not referring to the pegs, in the bootl lining but the clips on the actual shelf. Having seen four piece kits for around £23 and then single pieces from around £10, up, I approached my local dealer to ask about the actual dealers price. Now, the clips usually fail due to the curved lug part, snapping and/or fracturing and each side, left and right, is made of two parts. They kind of sandwich the shelf, when fitted. Anyway, it is usually the outer part that fails so the inner part is usually not needed but basically, they are the same price for either inner or outer, left or right piece and you may well be surprised to find the main dealer price is actually LESS then £2 per piece! I have ordered and purchased both left and right outer, along with one of those silicone screen wash funnels caps, which is a different issue. So, if you need the part, ask the main dealer and purchase from them. They may well also post, if you are not local. My dealer is reasonably local but posts at this Covid time, small pieces and is actually posting the filler cap as it was not in stock, for free. (Post free). The clips are very slightly different from original fitment, which seems to be a revised version so I am hoping they won't snap again. It was due to the slight difference and the fact that one was snapping, the other just a hairline crack, that I purchased two, as they were so cheap! I can list the part numbers if anyone needs to replace theirs as the numbers are located on the inside of the part and are unreadable unless you remove it. If you do remove it, take care not to snap the retaining pegs as they are fragile, especially in the cold weather but then, you will only remove them if one is damaged anyway!

Sorry I Will wright on English in future

Try blocking that hole on the PCV with fingertip. Do you feel suction? You should not.

It's your Lambda probe because the engine is stalling when it goes into closed loop once it's hot enough.

Alternatively you can buy this from AliExpress that gives you a cubby hole instead of the ashtray, but doesn't have the buttons for heated seats

The first time I selected Passat (MIB2) and it didn't work.. now with the Golf until 2015 (MIB1) is fine and the 8GB SD card is enough as well! Thank you

IMO looks come very far down the list of important things that might have someone buying a Skoda over another model from a VW Group brand or any other manufacturer. Most important to many will be the build quality, and reliability / longevity of the hardware and the efficiency of the vehicle. Software that is actually tried and tested and the features in the vehicle actually working straight from the delivery and the employees in a dealership knowing what they are. Bling and plastic chrome and trinkets should not take priority over the function of the hardware and software. 'Simply clever' is heating and demisting that works. Door and hatch seal that seal, charging port flaps that do not freeze closed. Tyre sizes readily available and dealerships that know what the vehicles are and how to service them or diagnose issues and tell Skoda of any and Skoda be quick to address them. Lets hope when it rain that the H20 does not run into the cabin off the roof if the doors are opened and if it is wet or damp and then freezes outside the doors do not freeze closed if the vehicle is not pre-heating the interior. PS Lets hope the drivers controls suit the car being right hand drive and delivered to right hand drive countries. PPS If you need to add aftermarket wind deflectors to a EV to be able to sit in the car in adverse weather and no water or snow come in be that on your own or with passenger human or animal and charging and the interior glass not steam up if the car is on or not on then really the designers and engineers have a 'Fail'.

Here you go - mk 3 liner fits mk4 pretty much exactly.

Quantum Red is one of several maps developed by Quantum tuning, often resold via smaller independent mechanics, mobile tuners etc. https://www.quantumtuning.co.uk/quantum-tuning-options.aspx If you're running a mapped car, you may need to be conscious of fuel choice (many maps will be configured to expect 99 RON) and ensuring you keep on top of servicing but other than that, there's not much you need to do 'special'. You'll burn through clutches if you constantly launch it, high gear low speed pulls (say overtaking in a 40) to ride the torque wave probably won't do it much good either, so keep using your gearbox. The only other issue really is that of insurance - you should be telling them it's modified if you know and not all insurers will like this. Some will ask for an extra £20, others may even refuse to insure it all. Plenty of people will tell you to risk it and spin a story about it not being easy to detect, or to feign ignorance, but it's not a risk I would take personally, I'd rather do it all above board.

As long as the PCD is the same and the offset is similar then 17" wheels will be fine - they may be tight as @Kenaimentions but will definitely fit.

Only the rear brakes on a 245 were bigger (310mm vs 272mm on the rest of the range at the time), fronts are 340mm, same as any other TSI. There was a lot of guff in the media at launch about it needing the 19s due to bigger brakes but it was just that, guff. 17s are still a tight fit around the front calipers though, so it would be worth a trial fit if you can before you buy.

I forgot the UK lockdown. That makes your reported consumption is really quite impressive as a lot of really short runs really cruels the economy figures for any wholly ICE powered vehicle (I know that from the number of trips I make supporting aged relatives at their local retirement village). I've seen our long term average speed as low as 18kph :( . Thinking about it a bike loaded with shopping through Cumbrian hills, in winter would struggle to match that speed as well Be interesting to hear how you go with the new car through a 'vaccinated' summer though.

Spark plugs are long life type and nominally 40k miles. However I just replaced mine for the first time at 60k miles and there was no noticable electrode wear, and no noticeable improvement with the new ones, so I wouldn't rush it! Pollen filter is 2 years or 40k miles, (not sure why it would have a calendar life, but that is what it says). It cost me £8 for the pollen filter (non-OEM) and took about 10 minutes to change, so I dont think that can be a big deal even if you get the dealer to do it. Brake fluid is after first 3 years, then every 2 years (although I am unconvinced that this is necessary with such frequency unless you are racing the car etc). Engine air filter is 56k miles (90k km). Which seems quite infrequent, but I guess it depends on the environment you drive in DSG oil change is 40k miles Haldex (4x4) oil change is every 3 years. Seems odd that it is based on calendar time, not milage. I suggest this is one thing you definitely don't want to scrimp on, and I would have it done at least every 30k miles, and get the pump gauze cleaned. When I changed mine it was full of gunge, horrible and disgusting! (clutch fibres) They try and flog you an aircon service every 2 years but I think that is a bit of a ripoff. If you plan to keep the car, I would stick with fixed oil changes at 10k miles (well actually it's 9400 I think). Long life / flexible oil changes are for people who will get a new car before this one has time to pack in.

Yep, exactly that. So far anyway

broken wires in door loom between door and A pillar most likely.............very common and lots of posts on here.

Purchased this last November 16’ plate 230 edition.

Yeah I will but it just seems a bit naff, I don't like cables everywhere and I liked the music tucked away on a SD (ie not using a visible port). another USBC in the glovebox would have done the trick.

Had my mk1 vrs since 1st September 2005 when it was just under 3 years old ‘52 plate.

Remember a 4x4 gives you better traction to get moving, but when it comes to braking there's no difference between 4x2 and 4x4 versions it's all down to the tyres - that's when All Seasons will really make a difference.

In 36 years of owning multiple cars most of which have been run for over 13 years and well over 100k miles I've never taken out or needed an extended warranty. You are far better looking after the car and, if your worried about repair costs putting any money you might have paid for a warranty aside.

One from a walk down a cold canal

I have now fitted the clips and found the "Difference" Seems to make the clips better, as the later type go round the posts in the boot liner, with a tight little push on, rather then more or less "Balance" on. This means the shelf may stay in place better, if slightly knocked when loading the boot. The way the later casting as made has a sort of expandable gap that will flex better, so fit better, once on. I will try to put up a picture of both versions soon. They were just a little fiddly to fit and also to remove the old ones but worth it if yours are broken, too. Re-assembly, I used a little clamp, like a welders/metal fabricators one I had from when I used to do dry-lining. You could also use a small G-clamp, to slowly squeeze the part bask on. Use a cloth to cover the new plastic so as not to mark it and it may well pay to warm the plastic a little, with a hair drier or a cup of hot water, prior to fitting. Coming off required a pair of screwdrivers, one to lever a little, then the other to hold or lever a bit more. If you break the outer part, that will be ok but try to take care of the inner, though they are of softer, less snap-able plastic. The following numbers are the part numbers. The later outer codes ending in an (F) replaced my version, which ended in an (E). 5J6867377D is left, inner. 5J6867378D is right, inner. 5J6867377F is left, outer. 5J6867378F is right, outer.

The The Octavia MK4 is very aerodynamic. 0.24 for the hatchback and 0.26 for the estate. The 110HP hatchback has a top speed of about 130mph which is very good for that amount of power. If the car only had an aerodynamic performance of 0.34 I expect the car would only do 120mph with 110HP. Steady speed cruising at 50mph+ or on a long run will probably see the MK4 use less fuel than the MK3. Around town where wind resistance has much less significance the lighter MK3 would be better. It's disappointing that Skoda have made the MK4 heavier than the MK3, if that is the case.

I am also starting to think keeping a 2018-2020 car may be a better option if it avoids some of the problematic new gizmos Even though I have bought multiple Skodas over last 20+ years, I will be retiring in next couple of years, and want a car to get me somewhere enjoyably, and don't want some hi tech screen menu mobile office on the dashboard that irritates me, which is way Skoda seem to have gone. I might seriously look at new Dacia Sandero Stepway for our new second car

if not a fuse or fuse keeps blowing, could be motor died (sometimes the park position sensors wear out) likely a broken wire somewhere. had several break on my 2008. Drivers side door and tailgate.

Some big updates this year exciting times. Was contemplating selling again but honestly couldn’t replace the bang for buck with this and obviously my man hours involved with her. 😁

I agree with you Rick that the new platform will help - better refinement, space and fuel economy. However Skoda will no doubt go with the new VAG infotainment system which has virtually no external buttons/knobs. This lack of easy adjustment while driving is a real safety issue to consider. Also, there will be the introduction of Lane Assist which in most new VAG models is criticised for being too ‘aggressive’ in application. It is fine on long motorway journeys but very annoying/borderline dangerous on narrow country lanes and roads with poor lane markings. There is a lot of concern and criticism of Lane Assist on the Kamiq and Scala forums for example. Also not easy to switch off - why not have a single button to switch it off like you have with the Stop/Start button? I had a T-Cross for a year and hated the Lane Assist! So, will it be a better car? In many ways it will but I hope these driving/safety issues don’t spoil it. My plan is to go for the MK III SEL estate early next year when my Fabia will be 3 years old as the current estate will still be in production then.

Ok problem solved. threw myself at the mercy of the local Skoda dealership and the service guy kindly gave me the procedure. Yes Wino you were in the right ballpark. They use a special plastic tool but I used two old credit cards placed strategically against 2 hidden clips , then pretty firmly prize the cluster cover away. Then remove top steering wheel and indicators cover. So will have a shot at soldering the board when this weather clears, otherwise it's over to the dealership for a new ignition barrel and chip reader coil or god forbid an ECU Thanks to all

Well I think the struggle getting up that hill was partly down to it being compacted snow and ice and partly down to me leaving the traction control on. If we get another snowfall, I'll try again with it switched off. All season tyres aren't quite as good as winter tyres in winter and aren't quite as good as summer tyres in summer. They are better than summer tyres in winter though and better than winter tyres in summer. Ideal for the generally mild UK winters with rare snowfall.

Depends on what you're wanting it for, just a casual glance to see where you're at. Something that has a start/stop modes and gives final read out data like Avg HR/time Or something you can attach to a PC and pull the data for analysis. obviously the cheaper you go the less accurate you will find it I would always recommend a belt HR monitor for accuracy but cheaper options would be wrist mounted which most modern systems are fairly accurate now days here's a couple options that might fit your bill: https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/mi-smart-band-4-fitness-tracker-heart-rate-monitor/_/R-p-X8597853 https://www.argos.co.uk/product/8887012 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07PM6JDZ8?tag=georiot-trd-21&th=1&psc=1&ascsubtag=trd-gb-9718527101963546000-21 Something a little off topic https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01LW44CQC?tag=georiot-trd-21&th=1&ascsubtag=trd-gb-1445856053566088000-21 If you have something you can connect via ANT+ to have a look at the Polar straps or garmin https://www.amazon.co.uk/Garmin-Adult-Unisex-Premium-HRM-Dual-Bluetooth/dp/B07N3C5WRG * I would not suggest amazon for purchases I've just stuck them in for references

If your local “specialist” has any integrity he would’ve firstly done a full health check on the car before mapping it and should be willing to warranty his work beyond 200-300 miles that it’s not gonna blow the engine up! there are so many people on here and other forums that have remapped these engines to stage 1 and beyond yet yours is the first one I’ve heard of that’s blown the turbo afterwards. I’d be looking at getting money back or the turbo rebuilt at his expense - how did you pay for it, credit card?

Spent a happy afternoon disassembling the front passenger door on our 05-plate Fabia, after repeatedly observing the following behaviour. If the car is unlocked with the fob, and just the front passenger door opened, it re-locks itself after a short while as if it doesn't know that door has been opened. Not 100% of the time, but more and more often. Also; and noticed as long ago as a year back, is that sometimes when driving, the car either attempts to or actually does lock itself, partially or completely, and sometimes immediately unlocking again, often when braking or cornering. Locking and unlocking behaviours without any active input. All a bit random. I've made previous attempts to fix this second symptom, but all unsuccessful. One involved repairing wires with cracked insulation in the drivers side a-pillar bellows, together with cleaning up and replacing some pins in the connectors at that pillar, as there was some corrosion evident, likely caused by water ingress past a poorly re-fitted rubber boot/bellows. Another was inspecting and 'contact cleaning' the same pins/connections on the passenger side. Yet another was an extremely optimistic (i.e. pointless) spraying of contact cleaner into the general area of the door-open microswitches, with no disassembly, just through the holes on the back edges of the doors. For today's attempt, I was expecting at least the door open microswitch would need replacing, but wasn't really sure that that alone could explain both symptoms. Not done enough testing at all to be sure that what I found does cover both, but optimistic for now. Here's the lock, fully removed as per @Tech1e's guide for window regulator replacement; plus a bag containing a genuine replacement microswitch. I didn't fancy grafting that switch into the existing wiring, following a bad experience of having to revisit this work on my Polo after trying this shortcut. Two inline crimps are supplied with these microswitches to make such a technique easy. Soldering the wires directly to the pins of the connector on the topside of the circuit board was successful back then, on that one, at the second visit. Can't really remember why I didn't completely remove the old wiring from the board, possibly reluctance to do that final bit of disassembly to get at the reverse of the board, 'twas a few years ago, I forget. This is what the board looks like before complete removal. And this is the underside after removal, showing the connector connections and microswitch solder joints, all coated in a thick layer of brake-cleaner-resistant conformal coating of some type. I couldn't really see much of the joints through this dark brown coating, but did think I was observing a little more movement than expected - when waggled gently - of the connector relative to the board. Cleaned away by scalpel a few bits of the brown coating to get a better look, and one joint was particularly grim. It's the earth connection, which goes to the door open microswitch and some other places... Here's a very brief video of it being waggled: 20200910_155143.mp4 I swapped the new microswitch in as well, as it made no sense not to. Everything's pretty much back up together again now, but only 3 out 10 rivets replaced, and no door card yet. I will await feedback from the owner on both types of misbehaviour before finishing it off, I think.

What Skoda seem to have forgotten is in more rural parts, a car is more of an essential than a lifestyle choice, not everyone wants a large smartphone with a wheel in each corner My fear is all this gadetry is just more to go wrong, it doesn't make it any more practical to put the shopping or dogs in back In my experience many people just want car to be dependable and reliable, especially if it is second car and luxuries aren't needed. i think they have lost their way at the lower end of the market and I can't currently think of a reason I would want a new Fabia compared to say a cheap Dacia sandero stepway. At the current time our Skoda is sitting in the dealers service Dept awaiting parts, as Skoda have run out of a part it needs in UK, (been there a week, still no word when part might come), so Skoda parts (lack of) has more than reversed any desire to have another Skoda that their advertising Dept gained