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It's pretty hard to guess an exact problem based on a few dash lights as they cover so many different faults. I'd certainly agree that a failing battery can give a multitude of seemingly random faults. It's also plausible that a bad ABS sensor could upset the ESP/ESC and cause the steering light to come on as the two systems are closely linked. As for the OPS issue, some versions rely on the ABS sensors to assist with self parking etc but low voltage seems more likely. If you really want an accurate answer, you'll need to get the car connected to diagnostic equipment such as VCDS to read the fault codes. It'll depend what faults have been stored to whether a drive with a fully charged battery clears the warning lights

I purchased a second hand MIB2 unit from Maciej Początek on face book ready coded plug and play.. 1.remove old head unit and glovebox Photo 2 & 6 2. cut away apart of the old head unit carrier as photo 7 3. move blue and green connectors from old quad lock into new wiring adaption loom photo 9 4. remove the 2 can wires from old grey connector and fit into new connector in the new quad lock ... see photo 8 & 1 5. slide wiring through into the glovebox area and connect to MIB2 unit... see photo 10 6. fit GPS aerial under dash ( onto of the heater) 7. slide MIB2 unit into the slot made into the old head unit carrier from the glovebox side 8. refit glovebox. 9. remove the upper 2 locks from the new head unit. you can be brutal and use a set of pliers. 10. slide new head unit into place photo 11 11. go through settings to make personal adjustments 12. code instrument cluster for nav with vag-com or similar parts used : MIB2 unit second hand : 5Q0 035 874 C conversion loom. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000232403998.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.fdd82e0eCVlIZM head unit second hand : 6V0 919 604 B GPS aerial : Ebay

We had a quite astonishing sunrise a few days ago. The colour came and went in the space of a few minutes.

Before and after.

I ordered mine on a Thursday then picked it up on the Friday. They only had to drive it out of the port storage 30 seconds around the corner from the DM Keith Grimsby dealership!. They have (had) loads of vRS's

186mm: https://cdn.skoda-storyboard.com/2020/08/TD-ENYAQ-iV-en.pdf

My understanding (for Skoda UK customers and a MY21 Karoq with a built-in eSIM) of the online services are as follows: 1) The eCall Service allowing an automatic or manual SOS call is quoted as being free for the life of the car. (I believe this is required by EU regulations, but would hope Skoda UK do not remove this now we are not in the EU!) 2) The Proactive Service is free for the first 10 years. This includes breakdown calls to Skoda Assist (but I presume you have to resubscribe to this after 3 years?) , Information calls to Skoda Customer Support, Vehicle Health Reports via the Connect app, Service Scheduling, Online Personalisation (transfers your personal settings to another Skoda car), and Online System Updates. 3) The Remote Access Service is free for the first year only, then costs 60 euros a year to renew (often reduced to 39 euros). This lets the Connect app provide Driving Data, Parking Position (handy when you've parked in a strange city and explored it), Vehicle Status (doors and windows closed etc), Notifications is someone has driven your car out of a selected area or faster than a selected speed, sound the car's horn or flash its lights, or receive a, email warning if the car alarm goes off. Note that the Driving Data and Parking Position can be obtained via the Connect Lite app for free if you have a Dataplug. And the Vehicle Status reports seemed to be stored shortly after the ignition is turned off when you may still have doors or the boot open. So if it reports they are open, you need to update it via the Connect app to get the current status. 4) The Infotainment Online Service is also free for the first year, and then costs 70 euros a year to renew (often reduced to 49 euros). This provides online map updates for your local area (Customer Services say this is the country you are in) as well as any remote areas you navigate to, online traffic information, parking spaces and prices, filling stations and prices, an online route calculation which assesses traffic congestion on your route, the voice control system, importing POIs and routes via the Connect portal (although this is not yet available), and an online shop to buy additional functions and services. As they have disabled the USB map update function, this is the only way to keep maps updated! All the above include their own data allowance, and so do not need an additional dataplan from Cubic Telecom. Reading their website, they only say that buying one of their dataplans (7 euros for 2GB/30 days, 15 euros for 5GB/90 days, or 72 euros for 25GB/365 days) provide you with a WiFi hotspot in the car so other passengers can access the internet via smartphones, tablets etc. However after trying for months to access web radio stations (without a Cubic dataplan), yesterday I tried using my phone as a Mobile Hotspot and connected my Amundsen to that rather than the eSIM. The web radio feature then worked instantly, so if you don't mind using your phone's data allowance rather than buying a Cubic dataplan you can listen to web radio stations and podcasts that way. There is no mention of web radio services needing a dataplan in the manual or other documentation, although Customer Support's technical experts had thought this could be why I couldn't access the feature. It would of course help other owners if this was documented somewhere!! Hope this helps, Chris

CJJE, thats another reason I chose the Karoq. The ease of adjusting the AC controls, the stop/start function, all the things that are best served with one or two touches at most is imperative. But don't get me started on ths topic, we'll be here all week.

Had mine tinted from B pillar back and the rear window, didn't cost anything extra. Also advised them I had the DTUK Pedal Box installed, this was on a chat box on their website, after a little delay they came back and said it was classified as an 'interior modification' and again no extra charge. I thought this was a bit odd so I printed out the chat in case at some future date the insurer tried to dismiss a claim because of it, I had written proof they were advised and it was accepted along with the tinted windows. Your choice entirely but I would certainly do some insurance comparisons, I shaved over £500 off our house cover in one go and certainly a lot more than that on our car insurances over the years. They are not loyal to you so why be loyal to them, your cost most likely goes up a bit every year, over 15 years that could be lot. I pay under £300 a year for my octy comprehensive cover from a 5* defacto insurer with high repute. We are pensioners, wife and I to drive, cars not garaged, no points, and no claims for so long I forget. Worth a few minutes time and could save you £££'s (Martin Lewis and MSE are my gods!) Was a company buyer and my wife reckons haggling is in my DNA.....

If you're after good quality calliper paint, I used this: BITS4REASONS - NEW MODEL E-TECH BRAKE CALIPER PROFESSIONAL GRADE PAINT KIT- PERFORMANCE HIGH TEMPERATURE RATED TO 220 C GRAPHITE: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike One kit has done the all four callipers (in 'graphite') on the Yeti and the front callipers and rear drums on the Citigo. Brushed on easily onto the callipers and hubs/drums and has lasted well. Still some left over in the tin. Almost looks like the Citigo has discs on the rear.... Loads of different colours available.

If it was your diverter valve it would normally raise a fault code as underboost or overboost. However for the sake of a new one I changed mine when I mapped my old car to latest revision for peace of mind.

Brake assistance settings like Steering assistance might be adjusted on Motability Cars or at Drivers request where a changing in the setting might suit a driver with standard controls or hand controls or adaptions. Skoda used to use the term Disability adaptions to the controls. When buying a used car it is a good idea not to assume that the Brake, Steering Assist is not at a Factory setting as the adjustment might be already done for more or even less assistant. As might happen with XDS settings. Cars traded in or bought at auction may well not be reset to the factory setting, so check, especially if the car was owned first by Motability.

Or just print off your own calibration board and take it with you! It cost me about £8 for a full sized print at a local printers

You might want to take a look at this thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485897-how-to-reverse-camera-fitting-guide/ It's geared towards an Octavia but the parts/theory should be similar.

You have a 1.5 TSI 150ps with ACT (Active Cylinder Technology) same as Audi with COD (Cylinder on demand). the 1.4 TSI / 1.4 TFSI Euro 5 and Euro 6 came with ACT/COD or without that. There were different power outputs over the years eg 125,140, 150 ps. Turbo only. (Euro 5 1.4 TSI 180/ 185 ps were in some Fabia, Polo, Ibiza & A1's with a Turbo & Supercharger, they were also in various VW Group models with 125, 150 & 160 ps. That is just a simplification of a rather involved subject.

We were at the end of 6 months travelling so I blame Aussie portion sizes. It’s hard being on a diet in that country when one breakie would feed me for a couple of days at least. Also had to go on a virtually zero carb diet for a serious medical condition SWMBO developed in the summer which meant a radical change to our diet. If I feel my weight isn’t shifting as it should I find a steak and salad in the evening followed by a 5km run the next morning gets it shifted. Plus no vino for 6 months, though that has fallen by the wayside a little bit but no more than one bottle a week. Haven’t been out running for 2 months due to snow and ice, it’s going to hurt!

Thought that’s already been the usual with their ICE cars from the past few years...

Unfortunately I have had to do it twice, lost near enough 10st to get down to target 13.5st in 2014, then 3 serious medical life threatening occurences, each of which result in eating too much whilst recovering, and I was back to 20st in Oct 2019. Since then managed to get back down to current 14st and still losing. Just use calorie counting each day, seems to work and my wife is doing it as well and lost 2st. When you realise how many calories in something you start yo avoid it. Indeed she bougth a mousakka ready meal last week thinking it is for 2, but it is a meal for one at 950 calories!!! That will stay in the freezer for some time I think.

When you do check the battery voltage remember it is the "resting" voltage you need to know, so don't check it until atleast 3 hours after disconnecting the charger or turning the ignition on. Anything below 12.3v means the battery is failing.

Had the same fault codes up.replaced battery still the same.My local independent soon diagnosed the fault as a faulty wheel speed sensor ,sensor replaced at approx £100 all ok

I'm 5'7" so I'll keep out of the chat about size! My buying experience might interest you. I've used Marshall in Oxford to buy my Superb as well as my Karoq. I've found them to be very good - thorough and professional. It was my experience when buying the Superb that gave me the confidence to trade it in, at a decent price, and to buy the Karoq based only on its pictures on the Marshall website. The handover was done using their Covid-compliant safety regime, which impressed me. I'm happy with the outcome. The message I'm giving is - make sure that you're confident in the franchise dealer that you're working with and a "sold unseen" purchase should be fine. Marshall have impressed me in that regard. As a PS, I helped my stepson to find a Fabia recently down in Harlow. He too got a cracking deal, trading in a CitiGo at a good price and getting his Fabia at a bargain price. Once again, just now Marshall seem content to make selling their cars a priority, rather than making the maximum surplus on each car they sell. Just a thought.

I'd suspect more touchscreen controls like the Tiguan, Ateca etc. Which is a big turn off for me as I find them distracting and dangerous. In fact the Karoq's present controls are the reason I bought one rather than a Tiguan!

They need to keep them getting Media & Forum coverage as people are not seeing them in Dealerships or out and about on the roads. One of the best way is to get Haymarket Media Group running an article on them in their publications. They will always happily put up some images produced by Skoda Media since there are no actual pictures of the model in the flesh they can publish. What Car / Autocar might even make them Car of the Year 2022 just to get things moving.

Have you got park assist, or just front and rear parking sensors? Park assist uses data from the wheel speed sensors, as does tyre pressure monitor, ABS and ESP. A faulty sensor or cable will stop all of those working. If the battery has gone low, the power steering light would normally go off on its own after a few meters of driving, but with the ABS light on, it won't clear itself.

Here's the video. He's working on an Audi A6 but the procedure should be the same. It's a long video but very informative. I'm going to be doing my rear discs and pads after being quoted over £300 for new when I've just purchased Brembo discs and pads for £77, I already own OBDeleven and I've got access to all the tools required.

I was quoted 20-24 weeks when I enquired recently. As that would have taken me well over the end of my lease (and thus requiring MOT, and going out of warranty) we went for a stock car with the spec we wanted - any metallic blue (we've got Race Blue again) and the winter pack. There's a handy (if a bit clunky) website where you can search the cars that are in Skoda stock, usually at the European port. https://drive.vwfs.co.uk/our-brands . This is UK only - I don't know if other countries have something similar. Although it's aimed at PCH customers, I guess the cars there are available for retail as well.

I’ll do it after work. One thing to report, if it dips while manoeuvring and you don't drive away or put it back it stays down and doesnt remember to come back up. Effectively only making it useful 50% of the time

I’m looking at an Enyaq purchase too, and as they’re the same car underneath, it’s only natural that you look at the ID4 too. My personal spec would be different, but to compare to the ID4 1st edition, I specified an Enyaq in what looks like a close comparison. So picked an 80 Lodge and added metallic paint, 20” wheels. Then added following options... basic climate package to add heated washers and front seats; basic assisted drive to add active cruise control; and the 125Kwh charging option to get to a grand total of £42,080, so about £1,300 more than ID4 1st edition. Drive the deal currently has the ID4 for £35,117 after govt grant so about ~5% off list. Who knows what discount will be on Enyaq. Personally, if ordering an Enyaq I’d probably go for 80 Lounge or eco-suite, I wouldn’t bother with assisted drive as I have ACC on superb now and there’s bits about it that I equally like and loathe so if asked to pay £700 for it, I wouldn’t tick that box (it was standard on Superb). I wouldn’t bother with 20” wheels, but like the style of the 21” wheels so would either go for these or standard 19” wheels (purely on ride comfort and saving £1,100 over 21”) I would probably option the heat pump, interesting that it’s almost £300 more on VW options list. So all in I suspect my Enyaq will still be ~£2K more than ID4 1st edition. I personally think the Enyaq looks better and seems to have slightly more practical boot space (for dogs) than ID4 that appears to slope more at rear. This might just be an optical illusion though - I haven’t looked in detail. So still not made up my mind. 🙄

Most of those faults could be linked to a wheel speed sensor failing as they are interlinked systems that rely on the same sensors. Still worth checking the battery health as they can and do create an array of seemingly random faults even if the car still starts.

Octavia MK1 312mm front discs https://www.autodoc.co.uk/brembo/1657272 Octavia MK2 312mm front discs https://www.autodoc.co.uk/brembo/1657592 The MK1 312mm front discs have a height of 34.2mm, and the MK2 312mm front discs have a height of 49.5mm. The MK1 uses 6.5Jx16 ET42 rims whereas the MK2 uses 6.5Jx16 ET50 rims.

OK no worries

@Hyeung The reason for the members saying the battery is because it often is as seen in the many threads every year in every Briskoda section where members describe something exactly the same as you have.

MuddyFunster, I posted this info weeks ago, the info was different to some other posters info, haven't said anything to Skoda UK about it, waiting for them to get back to me.

They open well before full throttle. After much experimentation over 5 years with the flaps open and closed I have discovered : a) With the flaps open the top speed of the car was 165mph with them closed it was 155mph b) 0-60 With flaps open was 4.3 seconds with them closed was 5.9 seconds c) The car sounds like a herd of stampeding Buffalo with the flaps open and with them closed sounds like the Mrs's Revlon Hairdryer albeit at 'High' on the power switch....

Sounds like low / faulty battery.

The EPB (electronic parking brake) needs to fully retract the pads in order to have adequate room to fit new discs and pads. So it needs to be placed into a special brake service mode by VCDS, OBDeleven, Carista or several other such diagnostic tools which can access and activate this mode. Releasing the EPB from the internal handbrake control lifts the pads off the discs by just a small amount so if the pads and discs are worn there would be insufficient room to replace them with new full thickness parts. After replacement, service mode has to be reset and the EPB will adjust positions automatically to the new parts and resume normal operation. Hope that explanation helps.

Right everyone, been a lot happening in my life over the last few months but I can happily say project Octavia is back, slight change of direction but for the better i pick this up on Saturday all going well

By way of follow up: I eventually got my money back, months after the items were clearly shown as having been delivered somewhere in Germany. Had to file a PayPal claim to force the issue so wouldn't touch this company with a bargepole now. Terrible attitude

A lot of people swear by the throttle mod of changing the value from incremental to direct ober threshold in the steering assistance control unit 44. I was interested to see what effect this had on the car and read alot of reviews on multiple forums. I read some people felt a huge response in throttle response and others didn't. Some always drove in Sports and others Eco, Normal etc. With that in mind I used my obdeleven app to take a look. I have the driver profile switch on my VRS that goes from Eco, Normal, Sport and Individual. When I had the value at incremental I could see there were two values shown. I cannot recall what they were called but in Eco and Normal they were both showng as 2. When I switched to Sport those values changed to 3. I then changed to direct and what interested me is that no matter what mode I was in, they were all now showing as 3. So what it tells me is that the mod simply puts every mode into the Sport throttle setting and would be why those who always drive in Sport or with Sport on Individual mode; why they dont notice any difference with the mod. With that in mind I have switched back to incremental.

There are 3 'versions' of the Mk3 vRS with a 245bhp drivetrain. Chronologically, the first is the 'vRS 245', which launched in the summer of 2017 and was a special edition vehicle (with standard fit optional extras) that sat as the range topper above the regular vRS with 230bhp. The following year, the 230bhp drivetrain was discontinued and the regular vRS received the 245bhp drivetrain - this also often gets referred to as a '245' so as to distinguish it from the earlier 230bhp cars. This was shortly followed by a new range topper, the '245 Challenge Edition' which was very similar to the original 'special edition' 245 with some standard fit extras. You'll find the original version mostly on 67 and 18 plates, with a handful of 17 plates (and possibly a few 68 plates). The specification of these cars added the equipment listed below (compared to the 230bhp vRS of the same period): (Also not mentioned above, Performance Dials available in the infotainment system for boost, oil temp, power etc.) The gloss black 19" wheels and tail pipes are one of the most obvious visual clues that a car is a 'special edition', along with badges that have a black V rather than a grey V, albeit as the years go on more and more will be getting modified, so this method of identification can't be relied upon. Things that all 245s got regardless of the year or version are the VAQ electro-mechanical diff and the updated 7 speed DSG. The 245 Challenge edition gets much the same list of added extras but also includes Dynamic Chassis Control (DCC) and KESSY. Hopefully that helps work through what is quite a confusing timeline.

The VRS is a motorway muching tool. Great machine. If fuel economy is important, then get a Diesel 181 VRS (FL variant if you can afford it). Second hand prices on MK3 Octavia are crazy expensive at the moment, only because of Brexit (hard to get imports into the UK) and poor supply of MK4's

Thank you for your help RomanB. Updated this afternoon. All went well and smooth. For others: due to the size of my SD card i was unable to format it in FAT32. Used exFAT and all went well.

It's still f'ugly no matter how many vids of it are posted...

Yes correct...took mine out last night and got to say the matrix led headlights were pretty amazing!

I believe the ground clearance is 186mm The ID4 is 210mm, The Tesla Y 167mm and the Karoq is about 173mm

gotten used to BB code on Flikr... choose files is the original anyway....thanks

Hi, I wouldn't worry - your current boot release harness will plug into the block in the middle to provide the normal function, and the wire on the left with the purple connector is the only one you need to feed to the front and into the replacement media unit harness to provide all of the reverse camera functionality

@EnterName - I wouldn't worry. They've probably got a few suppliers for the camera unit but as long as the handle is the correct shape, I'm sure it's fine. In other news, I've calibrated the highline camera (not required for the aftermarket Chinese kits). I initially tried to use VCDS but none of the security codes worked which appears to be normal with the newer cameras. Instead, I got my trusty VAS5054a out and found a copy of ODIS service v5 online. You'll need a VAS6350 calibration targ et, the dimensions are online so I made a an SVG file and then converted it to a 300dpi 1900x700mm PNG. The forum software doesn't seem to like the PNG for some reason so I've zipped it: vas6350.zip I had the PNG printed locally for under £7 (190x70cm) but you can also play the cutting and sticking game with A4 if you prefer. The VAS6350 needs to be placed correctly on level ground, it seems like there are a few methods but I did the following. Find and mark the centreline of the rear wheels: Find the centreline of the car, I guessed this based on the roof antenna and rear badge: Place the VAS6350 on the car centreline and measure 1700mm from each rear wheel centreline and the first black bar: Fire up ODIS and use the guided function finding. It should spot the not calibrated fault code and walk you through the procedure. Make sure the camera is activated and at some point, it should ask for the distance to the target, target height and the camera height, in my case I think I used 1700mm, 1mm and 890mm. The RVC image will go a bit weird and 30 seconds later, it's all calibrated and no fault codes. Final picture of a very untidy garage:

Well I’m sure I’m not alone with having a bit of a bumpy ride whilst we work our way through this pandemic. I've had quite a lot change over the last few weeks but this project hasn’t died a death and I’m still very much looking forward to getting spanners out and onto the car 😎 there is going to be a few surprises in the next few weeks I’m hoping. I got a message to say my stuff has all been powder coated now so that’s great news 😎 in the mean time I’ve kept myself busy, my S4 has been needing some love as the engine I installed had a leaking head gasket that I wasn’t informed about, and it done my head in, so I set about fixing that, along with taking the bigger k04 turbos off and putting original k03’s back on but rebuilt with new cores. I spent a whole week rebuilding the heads, cleaning the valves and lapping them and then rebuilding them. then stripped my bay down to this. then spent what felt like an eternity cleaning and putting back together to get here. and last few bits to get nearly done. all went back together and drives lovely now, I’ll continue to work on this car but it’s at a position now where I can just jump in, turn the key and go out and enjoy it and have some fun, it’s stage 2 mapped with flat shift and launch so it is good fun 😎 I then had the TT over to fix, if your bored then here is the thread I made on the TT forum, bit of bedtime reading 👍 https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1963363 then I had a mate pop over and wanted his timing belt and service and a few bits doing so set about with that, trying to fix an oil leak and found his camshaft was knackered so he had me replace that 🤣 Please excuse the orientation. old removed new so that’s taken me up until recentlyish, Mondeo is now up for sale, misses didn’t like it and it’s not an estate so I couldn’t use it for work which I was gutted about ☹️