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The car was sold to a business and documents relating to the turbo replacement and crank bearings were supplied, nothing was hidden and the car was considered fixed. The price we got for the car reflected its history. We only bought it last year, and I've worked out that it's cost us almost £13k in repairs and depreciation in 12-13 month. We simply were not willing to take the risk that the vehicle would need more money pumping into it at some point in the future. Lesson learnt, we're sticking with non-modified vehicles now, under manufacturers and then extended warranty to be on the safe side.

As all comments above, the system works well if you act on a warning and reset the system after taking action. Mine warned me of this with only a slight deflation recently.

The OP should act as a warning to many, just as a TPMS warning should. Getting a warning of loss of pressure from when the pressures were set and the TPMS was reset and having to reinflate tyres and reset the TPMS means the simple system is working and the vehicles operator thinks slow punctures is no biggy. Well slow punctures can be in the tread or the sidewall or the bead or even the valve and should obviously not be ignored, as doing so is just not 'simply clever'.

Had the same system on my Honda Civic. Yes it’s a basic system, but has saved me 3 times driving with a slow puncture, each time I had picked up a screw or nail from my works car park. It’s the same system on the Octavia. The important bit is to reset the system every time you put air in the tyres. This ensures the system is kept up to date with tyre pressures. It’s not a glitch but needs keeping an eye on.

That's it in a nutshell. Provided that whenever you get a warning you act on it and then reset the system immediately it is not a big problem and not really unsafe. It's a cheap way for the manufacturers to meet a legal requirement that applies to all new cars these days, and I think you will find it on most other brands too. It has its limitations, but after five years of ownership I find it is still worth having.

The little numberplate looks like a staple across a pair of butt cheeks Why couldn't they have made it 80% the size overall :( I suspect the next M2 will also be a bit lardy :( Might as well go buy a big old Mustang before it's too late to enjoy a great sounding engine. The Mach 1 looks great and from what I've read on some M3/4 forums there might be one or two people jump ship, especially after the lean financial years many of us have had.

I am Chris from Sweden. Have my third kid on the way so we needed a bigger car. The superb was the best option to avoid getting a mini-van 😂 I think it is one of if not the best looking station wagons out there. This one is a 190hp diesel with four wheel drive. Laurin & Klement equipment an black leather. I am going to do a little tweaks with it this spring. Spacers to move the wheels out a bit, chromedelete with plastidip and removing the text from the trunk. I am undecided between a Stage one mapping or a pedal box. I'm a little concerned with the longevity of the DSG. This is how it looked when I picked it up:

Wrapped roof in my garage this afternoon, took me 2 hours to finish the job Use 3M 2080 metalic black vinyl, together with 3M knifeless tape. Not a perfect job, some bubbles in the pic. The 3M metalic black vinyl looks good, but it is not as black as the sunroof and the oringal paint on the car . And it cannot be stretched as a normal black vinyl, the color going to fade if stretch too much, see below left. I might replace it with normal gloss black vinyl someday in the future, but so far I'm ok with it. I also wrapped fog light frame too, a bit like the fog light frame addon listed on superskoda.

It sounds as though the vehicle doesn't have Vehicle to Grid (at the moment), rather it has what they are calling Vehicle to Load, which appears to mean you can plug in appliances such as kettles, hoovers, etc. to sockets in the car and use them. That's probably due, as you suggest, to the CCS connector not supporting it. But I'd assume if it can power up to 3.6Kw of loads, it should be able to deliver similar amounts of power to the grid once the supply equipment catches up. Though I'm looking forwards to the first support call to Hyundai UK complaining that the car isn't charging properly on the granny charger, especially when the helpdesk operator finally discovers that they've plugged the charger lead into the socket inside the car. Have Hyundai accidentally developed the first self-charging BEV??? The fast charge capability has the potential to be a bit of a game changer in EV adoption in years to come. Whilst many can charge overnight for their normal daily trips, the lengthy stops to recharge in older technology vehicles during a long journey have put some people off. Being able to regain so much range just during a short comfort break in the services removes those enforced waits and allows long trips to be made in the same time a combustion engined car could make them. Granted, there aren't many suitable chargers at present, but I foresee that improving as more cars like this become available.

I laugh every time I read about this generic 19" - harshness correlations on-line. In the case of a Superb DCC in particular it becomes borderline ridiculous. Just a few highlights and comparisons from my own experience: a) Between cars like the Fabia, Polo, C3, Corsa, Golf GTI (all below 19") and a Skoda Superb Sportline DCC on 19" in Normal mode, the Superb was by far the most comfortable and least unsettling ride, yes even vs those smaller city cars on 15"s that you'd expect to be more easy-going. b) In one particular case, the change from 18" Potenza S001 to 19" PS4S did in fact improve the ride instead of making it worse despite going one size up. Just how un-necessarily stiff the S001 were vs the Michelins. Any ride complaints on a DCC Superb, 9/10 are due to a combination of stiff sidewall tires, wrong pressures and bad roads, it's a very forgiving setup. Unless you're coming from Airmatic of-course EDIT: I realized I had missed a "least" before the word unsettling, which probably gave off a contraddicting message , fixed now!

Depends what you're used to. I came from a MK II Vrs on 18"s and the Superb on 19" (std suspension) is much more forgiving.

@AJ89 Welcome to the forum. You will fit right in telling members what they should not post!

In the UK it's 5 years for Skoda but elsewhere in the world, or for the same engine in an Audi I recall VAG say it's 120,000 miles but inspect at services. Personally on our old 2001 Fabia we did 80,000 miles on the first cambelt with no issues and on our current 2007 Octavia, where the recommendation is 4 years, have been changing it at 5 or 6 years, again with no issues. I'm aware of the risks but accept those given the value of the car. At 5 years and 16,000 miles I'd be tempted to decline the cambelt change and may be look at getting it done much more cheaply at an independent specialist in a year or so.

It's his car, if he wants to remap it let him. If you don't agree with his opinion don't bother responding

You're absolutely right. It's so much better now they have got rid of that feature. I also noticed that now if you hold the heated steering wheel button down for a few seconds it either turns the heated wheel on or off with out having to cycle through the three different levels. Wish they would add the same function for the seats.

They don’t which is why I had to have one in this colour. It’s under £50 to fit the virtual pedal with AliExpress parts so I’ll do a buy haha.

I have 3 rupes machines. The Rupes 15, the 75 and a nano. It’s easier than swapping plates and pads all the time. So I may have a yellow polishing pad on all of them, but use them to access different parts of the panel depending on access. passes depends on panel and paint condition. Experience will let you see the pad loading. I would prime the pad and do a section, crosshatching as I go. So I’m going to go left to right and then up and down. I’ll do this several times on the same section. Then I’ll clean the pad with the pad brush, and re-load with polish. Trick is with time you’ll get used to when the polish is running low on the pad and when your overloading the pad. The latter will make your progress go backwards. trim pieces depends very much on finish and polish and pad being used. I can run round the superb without issue but my wife’s focus for example has rubber weather strips that are a disaster and need taped. The different sized machines make the trim process a lot handier to be honest. If you have polish on black trim you can remove it with a plain white rubber. This was the focus last time I prepped it for ceramic.

I would speak to a seat repair company. You will be able to get the foam changed for example to memory foam. Bolsters softened or reduced and any other tweaks you might want can be discussed. You can get one of both done and best of all they will match the rest of the car still. Dirt cheap, no but probably not much worse than a swap and the end result will probably better. Also far cheaper than swapping the car/wife and you don’t have to store the old seats for resale time.

Or did the Autocar article refer only to there not being a physical limited slip differential without checking whether there was an electronic pseudo limited-slip differential? Most magazine reviews cannot be relied upon to be completely accurate about the spec of the vehicle they are reviewing.

So, this draws us to a close on this thread, no more updates as the lovely Octy has been sold and replaced with something new for collection in early March. If you want to follow the progress on the new toy, the thread is linked below.

One here with RS iV

Perhaps he is entering the 2021 BTCC with that wrap. Bet they have a giggle if he can afford a proper service at a BMW dealer. Wow that launch control was impressive as he deployed the 480bhp I wonder if he left the handbrake on because my 150PS diesel would disappear before he starts moving.

CFH

Was this the 105PS or 110PS On the 105 skoda typically said new turbo when the wastegate actuator failed. But an independent could replace the actuator and reprogram for around £200. We had the actuator replaced on our Octavia three years ago and it's been fine since. Skoda wanted £1600, cost £180. https://www.amazon.co.uk/TURBO-WASTEGATE-ACTUATOR-03F145725G-03F145701F/dp/B07VJG75MT/ref=asc_df_B07VJG75MT/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=226168125559&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15660722269752906894&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006914&hvtargid=pla-951281827597&psc=1

Just had a look at that link and got promoted to sign up to their mailing list for £300 of the next order. So if you are buying, it looks like you can save a chunk of money.

Just want to add to the topic, what a fantastic guide and thank you to the OP. Just fitted the referenced camera to my new vRS estate and it works a treat. Cable rods are a must. And for the original boot release button, I gave in to my anger after 20 minutes and just prised one of the clips off. Obviously only do this if you don’t mind essentially breaking the original.

I have factory 19’s and DCC. Your dealer tells lies!!😂

I mis-read that - I'll book my visit to SpecSavers!

When I've refitted needles, the easiest way I found was to: - take the cluster apart - remove the needles - refit them very lightly - connect the cluster to a car or testbench - use VCDS to do an output test on a gauge >> this causes the needle to go to max, then min, then hold in the middle >> adjust the needle to point directly up >> stop the output test and re-run it >> if the needle still points directly up, refit it properly >> stop the output test and re-run it to confirm the position - repeat for the other three gauges - put the cluster back together Simples Those dial facias look aftermarket to me?

I have had 3 cars (2 Fabias and my present Octavia) directly from Skoda stock. They were already registered and nearly new. One of the Fabias was a 2015 DSG SEL with only 19 miles on the clock and 6 months old. To me it was brand new but at least £4k less than list price. I went into a North West dealer one day and asked them to search the Skoda database for what I wanted. They said there was nothing. I went into a different dealer the following day and they found exactly what I wanted. In fact, they gave me a choice of 2 cars. Could be worth asking your dealer to check what is available direct from Skoda but don't be put off if they say they can't find anything. Try another dealer.

You are welcome.

Most service is all updated and recorded online now. If your car has always been serviced at Skoda or at a garage with access to the online service database it will all be on there. I wouldnt worry about it.

No, I have a westfalia removable Swan neck fitted. I keep the bag with the ball in the spare wheel well, with the wheel. process normally goes Open boot, remove bag click ball into place, trigger boot stand up, hear boot warning beep Then it’s either duck in time, or crack head on boot and then swear at it. I think the bar and a sunroof were the only options not specked on the car when new. Could never understand it as they then only kept it for just short of 5 months. Much to my benefit!!

Awesome 👌 Thank you for that!

I think @Kenfold is talking about the outside wheel wells. Not the one for spare wheel. And yes, they are carpet like. Not sure the exact material is, but it's certainly not plastic.

Yes, you can get the cheapest version and have it upgraded to the most recent version.

While you have that panel I would use it to practise some wet sanding. Start with something like 3000. You can use water in a sprayer or clay lube, or even soak the paper in a wash bucket with soapy water. A small sanding block will help keep it uniform until you get the hang of it. I had to do 2 sections on that focus as some muppet caught it one day while my wife was in work. it’ll surprise you what you can sand out sometimes. 50/50 shots look well but they can leave you with a ridge that’s a PITA as well on a genuine panel. Rupes have a channel on you tube that’s very informative and helpful if you’ve the time to watch them.

When I worked for a car manufacturer it was well known within the engineering teams that the demonstrator of their new model definitely did NOT have a factory engine map, but all the reviews by journalists never asked the question or commented on how the demonstrator was so much quicker than their long term test cars?

That's a really good point. I think you may need some additional marking. Not sure if they are compulsory, but you do see a lot of European vehicles with a red and white board.

Seems that replying on an Autocar article (any magazine article?) might not be the best way forward - @nickcollwhy not ask either a Skoda dealer or Skoda UK the direct question about LSD or electronic alternatives that may or may not be fitted to Octavia IV models?

The pressure information comes from the MAP sensor. Given that your car makes so little power then one bar of boost sounds about right.

Firmware you have is the most recent I know :( so if you have any issues I recommend to raise complaint (as I expect your car is still under warranty). But first try another cable between USB port and your phone.

Ah, okay. Worthless traditional journalist strikes again. Autocar article was wrong and it's still wrong now. Fully Charged video was very clear on the difference. It would be interesting to see how fast it charges on 400V chargers currently available. I'd also be interested to see how they are doing the 800V to 400V conversion. But for its bigger battery size of 70+ kWh with less than 300 miles of range, I fear it has done a Taycan in efficiency when moving to 800V. Kona 64kWh have range of 300 miles.

The Autocar test of the FWD vRS diesel stresses that the car doesn't have any electronic differential aids. I wonder if it's a case of the software being in the ECU but not enabled. This is certainly the case on several models of earlier cars such as my 2016 Yeti 150 TDI 4x4 which like all Yetis didn't have XDS enabled from the factory. However, it's a relatively simple matter to enable it with VCDS. It would only take someone with a recent VCDS cable and a bit of knowledge to have a look to see if XDL can be enabled on the MK4 vRS Octavia.

First you have to remove the injector rail with all four injectors attached. Then they are just held to the rail with metal clips. Remove the clips and pull the injectors out of the rail.

Not checked the Yeti but on the Octavia it's combined with the rain/light sensor on vehicles with climatronic.

Aerodynamically far better on the back.

Causing a stir

My manual that it came from is November 2014, I don't believe the tyre information was published in later manuals, I would like to be proved wrong on that though.