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Hello all! This is my first time writing something like this so forgive me if I seem repetitive or Firstly let me say this has been a great challenge from start to finish and what a difference it has made already and I’ve only had the screen in for 5 days as of writing this (27/02/2021.) The whole reason for wanting to fit the heated screen was down to the fact that every winter morning I would get into the car and the screen was misted up and would take forever to clear both the ice and mist on the inside. Parts list for this project is as follows: 1) 000979986A – 6mm repair wire. Approximately 5m long. £6.80+vat 2) 000979985A – 4mm repair wire. Approximately 5M long. £ 8.57+vat 3) 071973851 – Housing (connectors for the heated screen positive connection.) £5.59+vat each (x2 required) 4) 000979425E – 6mm wire with terminals on for relay connection terminals 30 & 87 - £8.64+vat 5) N91186305 – 50A fuse for position 14 in under bonnet fuse box - £5.69+vat 6) 5Q0937507D – Relay plate for the heated screen relay in under bonnet fuse box - £3.79+vat 7) Used under bonnet fuse box from Ebay with all the relays, fuses and terminals still in the housing - £16.66+vat 8) Used Heater control panel from Ebay - £62.50+vat (matching PR codes to your current vehicle apart from finding the correct PR code for heated screen to add to your current codes for the correct part number (3V0 907 044 T YMS for my car) 9) 3V0 845 011 AD NVB – Heated windscreen from TPS - £448.28+vat 10) Soldering iron and solder 11) Heat shrink of varying sizes and colours (optional but it was the best was I found of waterproofing the connections under the bonnet. Might I add that none of the connections that I’ve made have been twisted and taped together! That’s just not done in my eyes, in my opinion you’re asking for trouble if you even contemplate doing that! 12) Electrical cable rod to get the wiring through the grommet in the firewall to make internal connections. So I started off by first making sure that the body control module was the same as one from a Superb that had a heated screen so that I knew that the internal relay was present in my control unit for outputting an earth to the switched side of the screen relay. Luckily it was the same as the superb with a heated screen so onward I went. I started by fitting up the relay plate in the under bonnet fuse box, the 6mm repair wire comes with two terminals on it (one either end) one end went into position 123 and the other in 125 of the relay plate & the wire was then cut in half giving me two long tails read to connect as required. The wire in position 123 was connected one of the cables I removed from the second hand fuse box and was put into one of the openings in fuse 14s location. For the other terminal in fuse 14 I again removed one of the fuse terminals from the used fuse box and put this into the other side and connected it to a Terminal 30 connection post on the underside of the fuse box. I then extracted two of the 0.5mm relay terminals with tail wires still attached from the used fuse box and inserted them into positions 121 & 122 of the relay plate. With the power connections made and the tails for the other three wires long enough I attached extension wires to them and started routing the 6mm wire from the under bonnet fuse box along the existing wiring loom and up to under the scuttle panel where the connection would be made for the positive connections on the bottom of the screen. The other two tails for the power and earth for the changeover of the relay were loomed together and also run alongside the existing wiring loom to the grommet in the firewall. I used a small spike tool to make the smallest of holes so that I could screw the threaded end of my electric cable rod through the grommet and attached the tails to it using electrical tape. Pulled the tails through the fire wall and because I’d made such a small hole to begin with the rubber just closed up around the new wiring no problem at all! If the hole hadn’t have closed up like it did I would have put a small smear of black silicone over the opening to make it water tight again. With the glove box removed and the left hand end of the dash board removed (Right hand drive car) I could access the new wiring that had made its way perfectly to where it needed to go (stroke of luck it ended up where it was to be honest rather than having to search everywhere for it and re rout it inside the car). Again calling on the used fuse box I removed one of the fuse terminals with a long enough tail on it and inserted it into the fuse box behind the glove box (this saved routing a wire from the left side of the car and taking it all round the back of the dash to then have to find connection B111 for the heating circuit fuse and tagging into that) and used a separate 5A fuse supply for the trigger side of the relay instead of fuse 7 on the drivers side fuse box. The remaining tail wire for the earth trigger from the central electrics control unit (J519) was next. This went to terminal 26 of the 46pin connector (middle plug) of the J519. I had a terminal left over from a job at work which was the correct one for this purpose which is why I’ve not listed it above because I couldn’t find the part number for this but if you order parts from TPS then they’ll be able to have a look on ETKA for the wire you’ll be needing. Once this was connected and the two fuses were installed and the relay was installed I turned my attention to the connections under the scuttle for the screen. These were probably the easiest connections to make. As mentioned above the repair wires come with two terminals already crimped on, one terminal was then pushed into each of the two housings and the locking tabs were locked in place. Normally the under bonnet plug connectors have little rubber grommets that are crimped onto the terminal and wire to make the plugs water tight. I wasn’t going to buy a bag (30 in each bag) of these for stupid money as I only needed two. So out came the black silicone with a fine nozzle on it and I filled the two open ends up and moved the wire around so that the silicone could completely fill the connector openings to make a water tight seal. Worked a treat I might add! I then found the middle of the repair wire with the two connections on it and stripped it back enough so I could divide the wire in two and make a hole big enough for the 6mm tail to be pushed through and then soldered in place. I then used a combination of electrical tape and liquid electrical tape to make sure that the connection was water tight and fully insulated from touching any earth! I then had the screen fitted by a windscreen fitting company and they connected the positive connectors up in the scuttle that I’d wired in and connected the earth side of the screen to the earth post which is located under the light in the head liner. The very next day there was a relatively hard frost on the screen which I couldn’t have been happier about for once. In I jumped and within 30 seconds I’d gone from a frosted up screen to clear and ready to go! Totally worth the work doing it and all the time in getting the correct parts and cables to do it properly! Thanks all for taking the time to read this and apologies if it seems like It’s been written by a 3 year old but it’s the first time I’ve done anything like this so I hope it helps someone else out there that’s crazy enough to do the same as me! I know next time I upgrade my car it’ll have a heated screen already fitted! Thanks for reading and bearing with me while I wittered on for ages! Hope this helps anyone else that’s crazy enough to attempt this themselves!

When I first got my wife's Superb a few years ago I was so impressed with the car I asked the question "How did they do it?" So much car for such a good price, I liked it so much I sold my 5-Series bought one. Keep in mind that both our Superbs (1.4tsi ACT) where bought 1 and 2 years old for massive savings over new. After having both cars for a few years I think the answer to the above question is despite a lot of VAG shared mechanical components, the Superb is noticeably, and understandably built to a budget in some areas. The list of issues we have had with ours as follows: Peeling chrome - DSG lever, door handles and air vent. Sticky exterior door handles. Driver's side electric window switch becoming erratic. Failed boot latch. Cheap rusty brake disks. Misaligned glove box Error service: leave vehicle only when selector in position p. (Common across VAG) Bar the DSG sensor error which is a bit concerning, all the other things are easily ignored or cheap to fix, and none of them have tainted the ownership experience. I still rate it as the best car I've ever owned for its breadth of abilities. They are getting expensive new, but a 1 or 2 year old is still one of the most compelling family used car buys out there. It's a car I would never hesitate to recommend, and when it comes to replacement time will be a very tough act to follow.

Hope all is well...just picked up my new octavia vrs in Dublin and was not able to spec canton, sunroof or auto opening boot because of new emission laws in ireland the extra draw on the battery increases the co2..very disappointed i like the Canton sound system and always spec it...

🤣🤣 tell me about it. As much as I try and play it cool whilst waiting for the car, I just end up scouring YouTube for anything I can find on the new model. I’ve even watched some in German and Czech just to see if I can glean a little more detail just from the images. 🤦🏻‍♂️

That’s one on the list as well as the Meteor one they have at the other site and I’ve got an E Class and a 5 Series on the list too. If they’d have got the basics right I would have been the easiest buyer ever as I’ll be taking the car to Skoda for another fluid change as soon as I can for the digital stamp and to ensure I’m safeguarded as I don’t trust them to have done it but I’m just so frustrated by the whole thing at this point. Hopefully I’ll feel differently about it tomorrow when I’ve slept and had time to calm down.

I think it's 4x20W, at least based from SSP 890153 Still, I agree it's not oodles of power...

Michelin’s PS4S’s all the way; had them on past three cars not just the VR and for me they’re the best road tyre for UK driving.

I've also completed an OEM+ brake upgrade. This one's been a long time in the making! It all kicked off when I found a set of scruffy TTRS 4-piston Brembo calipers and 370mm discs in summer last year for a bargain price, but they were nasty! The calipers were sent away to be stripped and refurbished by Brake Caliper Refurbs (https://brakecaliperrefurbs.co.uk/) whilst I cleaned the rotors and polished the bells by hand. HEL supplied some braided lines specifically for the conversion. Before: After: On the rear are Golf mk5 R32 calipers+carriers with 310mm MTEC drilled discs to match the fronts. EBC RedStuff pads all round and ATE fluid. Due to a comprehensive lack of time (thanks in part to homeschooling and fatherhood in general) I enrolled the services of a good friend and Audi master tech who now has his own mobile workshop. So huge thanks goes out to Rob at RIO Autotech (https://rioautotech.co.uk/) who came out to me and went above and beyond to get the job done. Awesome work! Currently struggling under lockdown to get any miles on to bed it all in, but it looks the part and should provide a lot more stopping power and consistency when we're finally allowed out to play again!

From 1st March PlayStation are starting their stay at home free game again. They will have a new one each month for I think 4 months. In March the 2016 version of Ratchet and Clank is free even without PlayStation plus. Just incase anyone’s interested.

Good luck! I wish you all the best to get the car you had booked!

Can I sell this unit? If you want to... Do I need a radio code? There is no radio code, it'll either need component protection pairing to the new vehicle or hacking to remove CP. Also how can identify which one I have? The part number? It's probably a Bolero or Amundsen, given you have a 66 plate, it's likely a MIB STD2 PQ style. I paid my local skoda dealer £130 to have this activated. Can this be sold aswell? For SmartLink? No, that's tied to your cars VIN and is not transferable.

I nearly bought it myself because I like DG that much.

Is this the same individual mode where you choose which modes you're any for steering, lights, acc speed etc? My car also doesn't remember that. In my superb, I always use individual mode. And when I get in the car with my key, it automatically uses individual mode as default (unless I change it). Whereas my new Octavia doesn't. It resets that too. Or is this different?

Thanks for that, thats a right list of things to check! I'm still leaning towards it being something under the car but could be wrong. Its just so difficult to pin point where the sound is coming from.

These things changed in 2019 when Skoda made settings reset every time you start the car due to new rules on emissions regarding WLTP. Now have to use Individual Mode if you want to store personal preferences.

They only do the dance when the engine is started. So lights on (or are on as it's dark), then start the engine and then they do the dance.

A new wing is the easy option for the repair man. But it should be saveable (is that a word?) The black trim is fine. That's what it's there for. On previous car, my black rear bumper cleaned up as new when the rear panel was re=painted. As above, should be within your XS payment.

UNBELIVABLE. made more so with HOZZ saying he had his battery replaced after 4 years 11 months under warranty. because I complained about my battery for a while before the 100,000 extended warranty. The dealer put the battery on charge for me and said it was ok! that was November. In February in the cold spell I stopped at a petrol station and it would not start. Got home with a jump start and had Halfords replace the battery . Chap said battery was 0%. Car run smoothly since then but of course I had to pay as car now at 104,000 miles and out of warranty. So today the saga of the Engine Management light. I was given a quote for all the things needed including the defective unit for over £2K and of course it will be an MOT failure per new rules if not sorted. Cannot afford the £2K right now and was suggested I consider trading in. I decided to take car away and have a think with MOT ending MONDAY. Decided to take to a local garage and persuaded them to run the codes , clear them and see what happens. They did all that took the car for a 3 mile test drive and guess what? Yup no Engine Management light . I feel sick and this will be a divorce for me with the Skoda main dealer I am afraid. I have lost total trust. Clearly they did not clear the errors and see what came back. The errors likely came up when the battery failed and the new battery would not raise the faults.

That's good to know. Thanks for the update dr pepper. Good price too.

To AJ89 sorry mate that was was a very negative post. Please accept my apologies.

Ok So I've just now today had my towbar fitted by PF Jones (was supposed to be a couple of weeks ago but finally came now), and this appears to be successful. As above, the towbar itself and the electronics kits is exactly the same as the Mk3, and the Golf/Leon etc. It cost £600, but I do feel a bit better about it now that the guy (freelance not actually employed by PF Jones) was at it for nearly 6 hours, most of which was fiddling with electronics. He mentioned the towbar prep and said it was much easier to fit to cars that had it (mine doesn't). But since they don't ask you or charge any different for cars that do and don't have this, that's not my problem so essentially the towbar prep is a waste of time. No problems with the coding - I tested it pretty thoroughly, I had trouble with my last car every time you selected reverse and forgot to turn parking sensors off it auto-braked hard. When trailer attached graphics change on the screen, rear parking sensors and autobraking are disabled, rear foglight disabled (on car) Certainly no problem with the bumper, there is a cutaway marked already, although he cut a smaller area than this (ie the minimum that was needed).

Hi after years of driving boring Ford cars and vans , yesterday I joined the Skoda family after years of hearing family members rave about them , so I went all out and got a 2017 vrs estate . absolutely love it, what took me so long

click settings and active GPS, which is under data protection. GPS is inactive by default.

Iphone? from memory Privacy then Location Services then make sure it’s on for the app (alphabetical list).

According to the attached the 1.6 TDI 5 speed manual has a 1500kg limit at 12% incline and a 1800kg limit at 8%. You're 400kg off the lowest value at your caravans MTPLM. Who else could validate the cooling and gearbox upgrades needed? An alternative, because you're way off the max weights, could be to change the gearbox oil more frequently. And accept the fact the clutch will be wearing faster whilst towing. I do, as my van is 1420kg max laden. I've also had to start from a standstill on a 16% incline 😳

Their assumption seems to be that nobody will use their nav since "everyone has a smartphone" and hence will use either Google or Apple Maps?

Assuming it's dark, the light switch is on auto (so 'leaving home' works) and you get in and start it pretty quickly, I'd expect to see the dance.

If the car is out of warranty & you don't want to shell out the £500+ to change the pump, just disconnect the brown electrical connector shown in the picture above. The pump then reverts to pumping all the time, just as previous coolant pumps without the sleeve have always done. The engine might take an extra minute or two to reach operating temperature, but no big deal.

not sure of PN but its of that design, its the sleeve that sticks IIRC

I have an Edition with the Columbus MIB3 system. The designation search is a joke. With the problems of the post code nonsense we also are not able to select a destination using contacts. I have been informed after chasing the subject since last October that it is not intended to work in Navigation. Only in Phone. The route selection is also a step backwards from the MIB2. You cannot store a bespoke rout. You cannot select a start point. If on a trip of several days it is useful to select your own route for each day and store it to instant real on the morning. Now you have to rely on their selected routes or take time to input waypoints with the inherent Lat/Long problem. Please give me back the MIB2 system for Nav. "Simply Clever"? I don't think so!! Inputtiong a French area number (24100) will give you Bergerac with some street names but will not allow you to input a street. You can get back around but it does not find it. The only way to find the address in France or Uk is go to the Mao and look, then touch it on the map. I wish now I had bought the X1. I stayed with Skoda because I liked my previous SEL Karoq. I live in Guernsey so when I ask for a destination in UK it will only route me through Pool. I can't change that. Problem. Boats are not going to Pool at present. I have used Nav systems for many years as pilot and sailor, even with old creaky systems I have never had this problem. What a mess. VAG pull your finger out and sort it out.

I went from a tyre width of 225 to 235/35/19 to help protect my alloys. Still not great but better than before. The extra rubber on the road must help grip as well.

If your car does not have have a maxidot display, you can use one of the software option such VCDS. Personally, I use Carista as it offers many other options too. Lastly, you can ask your Skoda dealer to it, at a price!

Same here. On my RS4 the PS4s were the only tyres that gave good wet & dry grip without a harsh ride and lasted more than 15,000 miles.

if your car has the maxidot display on the instrument binacle you go into the vehicle settings menu. if not i think you need vcds to get it done.

Looks to be just another sign of BMW design having 'lost it's way' to me... very 'naff' and tacky!

Sure, go to this post: I measured the output signal from both front and rear amplifier outputs and you can see there’s a mid bass hump in the rear output exactly as you describe. I also agree that the tweeter in the rear door plays havoc with imaging and soundstage as it’s closer to your right ear (RHD cars) than the front tweeter, and my seat position at least gives that rear tweeter a direct unblocked output to my head! Had I thought about all this, I could have saved myself the part of £200 messing about with upgrading the rear speakers that are now permanently muted anyway... If you read the entire thread, you’ll see that I’m running a discrete version of the big ICE style you mention, with front components and a custom fit sub in the boot. Hope that helps explain it. Cheers, Nick

I think it will take you to the address, problem is unless you know the 12 digit map coordinates you will not know if it’s the correct address. Every sat nav I have used over the last 20 odd years has used the post code, with my 15 yr old Garmin you enter the full post code and it gives you that road, then a list of house numbers to choose, my 2019 Mercedes did the same, as do all BMWs, also all of my previous VW And Skoda sat navs. The latest MIB3 system is utter rubbish and I am very disappointed that they should fit such a system. Wish I’d known before I bought the car, may still have bought it but at least I would have known It wouldn’t have functioning navigation system and I’d have to use google maps.

You don’t need to be an audio expert - if it sounds better to you, it is better ...and those rear speakers are EQ’d really oddly, check out the measurements I took! Cheers, Nick

I get where you are coming from but anything that could be suggested is purely guesswork without the car in front of them. The water pumps have an adjustable sleeve that can stick, there are also different cooling loops as mentioned above, it could be the thermostat, or it could just be a dodgy sensor reading. I doubt it would be the radiator fan unless you live in a very hot climate as in the UK you hardly ever hear them running on a diesel unless its doing a DPF regen or the air con is on. (which btw is how you could prove they work) You are obviously not going to start tearing the car apart to figure out the issue on the advice of anybody on this forum and risk voiding the warranty so the quickest way to resolve your issue is book it into the dealer IMO.

I've driven only hybrids in any real anger so far, although one of the regular crew that I work with has a Tesla 3 that I have had a brief go in. We both decided that my M4 was a much more emotional experience. My emotion was mainly slow the 'heck' down, as he gave it some beans The Volvo look great and I think it is companies like this that will burst Tesla's bubble (if that financial bubble doesn't crash beforehand). Tesla may be theoretically wealthy, but the truth wealth of experience and knowing how to build a quality car is not necessarily their forte. I hate the excess weight of electric cars..and for that matter the ever-increasing weight of all the cars I l am interested in. The new C63 with it's teeny 2.0 engine is getting on for 2 tons with it's hybrid addition. Don't get me started with the weight increase of the M3/4. A wasted opportunity in probably BMWs last ever M3/4 car that is purely petrol powered. It may well be a superb car to drive, but it's still sad they went in the direction they did

Is no one else thinking 41k is low mileage for pads/discs?

...There was also a rarer, Greenline style front foglight, which in my humble opinion, look much cooler! They are kind of triangular, following the contour of the outside edge of the grille. They may be harder to find used, and take a different foglight grille, but they are nice. I assume you will need to do a fair bit of additional wiring, too and also fit a different light switch, that incorporates front fogs. This MIGHT be the time to find and fit a nice auto light set-up! The pillars, I believe, only came in matt black and can be a pig to fit new ones. Might be easier to remove the old damaged ones and have them painted. You could go gloss black or even colour match to the car. (Again, like Greenlines. They are matched to the paintwork, along with the A-trim ones, which are usually clip-on plastic ones). Another thing you might consider, if your trims are sound, you could just have the correct etch primer type stuff applied, then paint them as they are. It all comes down to preference, cost and ability, really.

your view on that will probably depend on if you’re an engineer or accountant...

If no air flow, I'd say your fan blower motor has failed or the wiring to it has failed. A VCDS / VAS scan will probably tell you. The blower motor in LHD cars is behind the glove box. My document here (PDF) https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/220727-option-code-or-part-number-for-ptc-heater-element/?do=findComment&comment=4990846 explains how to get the glove box out to inspect it. In terms of how to remove the actual motor, I'm not sure but others in this forum have done this before (sometimes some seals fail, rain gets in and the motor gets wet and fails). Before that though, assuming you have Climatronic (the automatic climate control thingy as opposed to the manual one where you just choose hotter or colder instead of a setpoint) try resetting the vent servo flaps. You can do this by holding in 'AC' and 'FACE AIR' buttons on the climatronic (I think, hopefully someone will confirm). The AC button light will flash and all the servos will drive themselves through the full movement to learn their endstops. You can hear this happening. If this doesn't happen, you might have a larger problem and should consider a scan with VCDS or VAS to get more info. OTOH if you have climatic (the non-automatic one) then I think it has an old-school fan speed resistor which might have failed. You can determine this by putting it on the highest fan setting and if the fan works there, but not at any lower setting then that's probably your problem. I'm thinking you have climatronic though as you mentioned that fan lights come on.

I don't bother anymore, there are so many speed camera sites around us it would beep every minute or so, there were three sites between home and my daughter's flat two miles away. Instead I set cruise to a couple of MPH below the old ACPO guidelines and relax . . . . . . not been caught since 2011. Sooner or later you will find a van/camera that isn't in the database or an unmarked car. Speeding regularly isn't worth the risk.

New wheels and tyres: Fake exhaust and chrome strip also vinyl wrapped to match the rest of rear bumper:

hello all new to here thought I'd drop a pic of my facelift Octavia vrs. Loving the car had it around 6 months I'd say and not missed a beat. Coming from a MK3 Monte Carlo fabia it's quite a jump to luxury and power. But I'm liking it just not going to go over top with chavvy bits haha 😂 if you see me about give us a flash 👌

Not at all. I'll need to dig out the paperwork so will drop you a personal message once I find it.